If you have a phone with GPS, you can install a GPX tracker and walk the contours, and circles at the points you want to record. The generated file can be imported into Google Earth (or something else). It will not be perfectly accurate, but you may not need that with organic shapes anyway.
Sea going ships and in-land boats are usually quite different. A ocean going Sailboat needs to be very strong and have a deep, heavy keep. All of which are highly disadvantageous on rivers and canals.
I'd try to figure out which one you want to go… or if you really want both and need a boat that can handle both. I'd definitly find someone who sails regularly, and join them for a few weeks, before committing to that route.
3V, 20mA is typical. The lamp will have a resistor inside to limit the current. As a 20mA LED is already bright enough in the dark, I don't think they have used a more powerful one. The 5mm package shown in the photo can't handle much more anyway.
The current running through the LED is defined by input (voltage - led forward voltage) / resistor. So as long as you use a similar color (thus forward voltage) the current will be about the same.
As I tried to explain already, LEDs are "defined" by their color and maximum current. Low power white LEDs should start lighting up at 3V (green at 2.4V, red at 1.8V… there are tables for that). The current is limited by the amount of heat the LED can give away at its maximum operating temperature. As most semiconductors, being cold greatly extends their lifetime. Less current works always. So you could use a 3W LED if you fancy, but it would not be any brighter.
Looks like a standard blue led. (almost all white leds are actually blue leds with a phoshphor coating to create the other colors). Which meany white led will work here.
However… not all leds are of equal quality (and efficiency). And as your power is very limited (tiny battery) it makes sense to sped a few more cents and buy an efficient led (maximum lumens/watt).
Leds.de has good quality, but is kinda expensive.
I would probably go with a solar panel and a small pump that can handle the pressure (2 bar or 30psi should work fine). (The solar panel will need about 10x the rated power of the pump.) My rough estimate is that a 10W pump delivers about 1 liter per minute. If that goes into a small reservoir at the top (kept cool) you should have a reasonable drinking water supply. And if that fails, a bucket on a rope…
If it doesn't need to look very tidy, the boundary can be made of branches and thin trunks: The larger ones vertically pounded into the ground and then the smaller branches horizontally on the inside, filling the inside with material as you build up.
The one I build 4 years? ago is still standing. Will make a photo today.
The downside is that the outside dries out, which protects the wood, but may not help the plants…
julian Gerona wrote:Scientist have protocols and guidelines to obey as thought in school.
Yes for most things protocols have been developed to simplify things, but they are not binding. It is perfectly valid to run things different from the norm, assuming the process is documented.
If scientists would only stick to existing norms, new discoveries would be quite rare.
While I can't answer your question, I do have an idea:
What if the log would initially extend above the water level, so the above-water part balances the below-water part? It can then later be cut off. (temporarily lowering the water table?)
If a fairly dense wood is used, I would assume that the friction of the soil around it should keep it under water.
Amit, in Germany "Vapour barriers" are used everywhere. (They are not just barriers, but more often only slow water vapor down, which otherwise cannot escape). I have no doubt that they work… how long they work is an entirely different question.
And I am sure that they are not needed when the choice of wall material and plaster was done with vapor permeability in mind.
A normal jar will most likely crack (and then melt). But even if you used a fused silica window, the heat will still be far too much for the camera to handle. With a mirror maybe… but then you are getting to far away to see a lot. A small hole in the top works to "see" inside (but leaks exhaust gas).
Dennis Mitchell wrote:The world is full of golf carts. I’ve seen a few used in town. I’d be perfectly happy going a little slower, but such a compromise is unexceptable to my county men. We have to have trucks and sports cars. We lack imagination. No matter the cost.
If a golf cart would work for me, possibly. But I need 100km range + climbing 1000m at full capacity. I am fairly sure the battery of a golf cart would quit far, far before that.
I don't think there exists anything that fulfills all your requirements… Electric vehicles need batteries, and they are everything but cheap.
A cargo bike might be an option … but if you want an electric one, the price goes up quite fast.
EDIT: I have run some numbers for an electric cargo truck… Batteries alone are 10k.
The best information to find a particular book is probably the International Standard Book Number. (With the increase in self-publishing and e-books that may change however…)
In (recent) research, Arxiv.org-IDs are excellent.
So… summarizing the requirements:
- Talk to MS Office and Exel: Given MS politics no other program will work reliable. People have tried and failed over and over again.
- does E-Mail. I can recommend Thunderbird
I can recommend LibreOffice as well.
For printing, as mentioned the only way to get reliable output is PDF (which can't be edited).
If you want to edit the same file on different computers, you have to use the same software and the same software version. There is no other solution.
That can mean that you have to install MS Office, or that they have to install LibreOffice.
In the absolute best case, the exhaust is water vapour and Carbon dioxide (toxic in higher concentrations). But you will probably also get carbon monoxide (toxic) and other combustion products (also toxic). Then there is startup and shutdown… which are extra rich in the latter products…
So it would be either deadly or super deadly.
Jondo Almondo wrote:But they're extremely efficient, worth using if you care about your carbon footprint.
Microwaves are around 50% efficient … from electricity – which is about 40% for coal and gas plants (and far worse from a generator). So you only need to get 20% of a coal or gas fire into the meal+container to match it.
Rufus, the receiver is called GM-3N 300RU. I can't confirm the 10Hz resolution, but it certainly works at 1Hz (which is plenty for me).
If you want to do mapping with high accuracy, you need a differential receiver. Essentially two receivers. One is placed at a known stationary location and the measured locations is recorded. The second one is used for mapping, but also records all data.
As the first one is stationary, you know that it's location has not changed. That allows to compute the error over time and then that error can be subtracted from the second set of data. This will not work when any receiver does not see the full sky, as they will get different errors each.
Similar problem here… remote location and importing stuff is neither easy nor cheap.
I had fairly good results with fireing a clay/sawdust mixture and turning it into a very porous brick. However it would require a large kiln to get the amounts needed for insulation.
So I disassembled my first rocket stove yesterday and found a few interesting things:
First, a layer of steel from the inside of the drum had come loose and mostly blocked the bell exhaust… which explains the terrible draft and smoke.
However the more interesting one is… I made glass.
The lower part of the inside of the riser (made from fine sawdust and clay) cracked and turned into a glass. I am not really sure what is going on here…
Then I found that the bricks of the tunnel near the riser also turned into glass.
Has anyone else seen this?
Regarding flickering… Running the LEDs on pure DC (with a proper power supply that has big capacitors to even the output, or batteries) solves that problem. However it requires basic understanding of electricity to set it up.
Nicole, have you tried to burn the paint thinner in a rocket stove? (Burning it in a container smokes too much.)
My attempt so far is to move to organic oils. (Linseed oil for steel parts and wood), Citrus oil to clean things (but it isn't exactly harmless either).
Remaining problems so far are engine oil on the old diesel engine (yes, it leaks a few drops)…
I am not sure the roof slab can support the soil for a complete greenhouse. But a large and light (as in bright) room with plenty of containers (the heavy ones near a wall) could definitely work. It would be a great area to work as well (if you can get stuff up there).
Do you have any ideas what to use as windows? Glass, Polycarbonate, Polyethylene, Ethylene tetrafluoroethylene?
I ran across them a few times before, but now I needed a bright light with a light quality close to sunlight.
Some of the newest LEDs can deliver that, but they are quite expensive (40€ for the LED itself. Driver and heatsink not included).
Then I found a used 70W metal halide lamp with 44° reflector, housing and driver on ebay for 20€ and bought it. It is fantastic! (It hangs 150cm above a desk).
The light intensity 60cm from the lamp is approximately equal to that of the rare winter sunlight in the north. So at the desk it is about 1/4.
The color is a bit on the pink side compared to the sun (which is quite blueish at this time of year) and it takes a while to power up and stabilize in color.
If high quality LEDs are outside the budget (or cooling them is an issue – high power LEDs need a cooling system!), metal halide lamps are definitly a very good alternative (and about as efficient).
Putting it through a mist nozzle would indeed only cause trouble…
I am not sure how effective straining would be as I assume the oils will hold on to the plant matter.
Unless a watering can works too, I am not sure how to avoid distillation …
do you know Abkhazia?
I am starting there right now and am looking for europeans to join. The area I am interested in is a 90 min drive by car from the capital city Akea (Sukhumi). (2-3h by bicycle) at the foot of the mountains.
Due to the contrast between the black sea and the alpine climate in the mountains, all climate zones in between are found there.
So with "eBooks" there are three kinds:
1. PDF (PostScript, SVG)
2. fixed eBook (page breaks are defined by the author)
3. reflowing eBook (no page break defined) (basically a website without scripts)
With PDF the author has full control over layout and appearance, but as Raven said, it does not work well on small phone screens (or small laptop screens).
As far as reflowing content is concerned, one gains the ability to display the text content on most screens in a readable way. The downside is (almost complete) loss of control over the layout (text, images).
The fixed layout eBook has no advantages as far as I am concerned. The page size is still fixed so it will not work on smaller screens, but you don't have accurate control over images and text layout either.
I once tried to come up with a program that could produce aesthetically pleasing layouts for any screen size, if fed with enough information about the relations between text and figures.
(Figures have to be placed where they fit best, but not before they are relevant (distracting) and not too much behind either. Try explaining that to a computer…)
I am not aware of any existing solution to this, so to me, reflowing eBooks are not an option if they contain important images or figures.
I get the impression that the goal isn't clearly defined.
What do you want to archive?
A functional tabletop?
Artwork with glass as a tabletop?
Recycle the class?
What does it need to fulfill?
Exposure to UV / Rain / Freezing / Oils / extreme temperatures?
Scratches from knifes?
Ability to lift the table?
A tabletop from epoxy resin will get scratches over time under normal use.
Glass embedded in resin might develop cracks from temperature cycles.
Glass in concrete will probably get some water between glass and concrete that expands when it freezes…
A tabletop of concrete might get too heavy to lift, making it unpractical.
Using the same oven for food and plastics sounds like a really bad idea to me.
The VOCs will stick to the walls when it cools down and are released when it is heated up again. So you at least have to heat it up to far above any normal temperature until it stops smelling.
I don't like concrete mixed with glass, at it makes the concrete more dangerous (danger of cuts) and contaminates the glass so it can't be recycled again.
To get an idea why your site is slow: In Firefox open the Inspector (Ctrl+Shift+I), then go the Network tab and check "disable cache" and right next to it change "No throttling" go GPRS. then reload the page and watch it load a billion scripts and assets.
What takes up time on a slow connection is:
- delay: everything that needs to be loaded can delay the whole process by a fixed amount (I had one 1s on a bad connection). So if the page loads 10 items, it can spend 10 seconds just waiting for data to be transferred.
- bandwidth: once data gets flowing, this limits how fast it can flow. Anything from 2kB/s to 2MB/s is common. Size / bandwidth is the time your site takes to transfer all data.
So to get a page that loads fast:
- as few JS and CSS files as possible.
- as few servers as possible. If the browser has to collect data from 10 servers, each connection needs to be established first.
- images with width and height attributes. This allows the browser to reserve space for them without needing to load them. (So the site layout can be computed before all images are loaded)