Thanks for the input! Steel walls is a great idea. That would be plenty tall enough and we'd just have to figure out closing off the top so hawks can't get in.
We are basically thinking to run a wall parallel to our fence, and then put ends and a top on it. Then we can cut a little door in the fence so the ducks can go back and forth as they please when it's open and be locked securely at night. That way, we can also just extend it lengthwise whenever we want to make it bigger.
I'm also hoping we can keep a few chickens in there full time to keep the deep litter turned for us so it breaks down properly...
We are planning to get into the duck egg business and are designing the coop. We have ducks in a coop by the house right now, but need to build a bigger coop farther back near the marshy area of our property. It needs to hold 25 ducks overnight, be deep litter method, have space for a small tractor to drive through to clean out the deep litter, and be easily expandable to hold up to 200 ducks. We are building it next to an established fenceline. We are in Houston, so it does not need to be weather-proof. This is just a nighttime holding facility.
Anything we do will be made predator-proof, we are just wondering about structural design.
We are wondering about doing pallets for the walls as that would be cheap. Maybe chicken wire across the top, but then how to make that removable to walk in there or drive through with a tractor.
I train professionally and have ridden all my life. I still have my one horse who I've had basically her whole life as well as a mini donkey to keep her company. Feel free to contact me if you ever need help!
Why does it matter that he go fast? Are you competing him, or just riding for fun? Or are you using him on a farm? Devil's claw is a great joint supplement. I agree that he's quite old, so don't expect much. Is he a good weight (not skinny)?
What is the most cost efficient step in post out there? We have been using the $2 ones from Tractor supply but would like to try a better wuality one as these only last about 1 yr before bending to the point of being useless.What other ones do you like? And what is the expected lifespan of them?
PS we are rotating goats, so they have to have multiple attachment points for at least 3 strands of wire.
Has anyone ever had a forage-only fed dairy doe? While she's in milk? We have 2 nubians, one of which is about to kid. We have 2 acres of dense brush. These goats did come from a regular dairy goat farm where they got grain, but I am having to cut back their grain because they are gaining weight quickly. Mostly I am just curious if anyone has ever successfully maintained a doe in milk on only browse/forage.
Havinng a gelding in with her could help. Donkeys get aggressive when they are bored - it's just entertainment to them, so having another donkey could curtail that. Though there are risks to the sheep in adding another donkey, also, so that would have to be weighed. backyardherds.com might be a place to find more info on sheep and donkeys together.
The dogs won't come onto our property, they'll just attack anything that jumps over our perimeter fence...so I'm not really worried about them. But I do need to keep the turkeys on our land, which is only 5 acres...
Thanks, that's all good to know. We have chicjens, ducks, and geese, but they all go into a locked coop at night and stay mostly around the cleared house and front pasture where we see them. The turkeys would be back where we couldn't see them most of the time. Granted, we do have a horse and a donkey that would be back there with the turkeys, but idk how much protection that would offer since they could be spread out over 2.5 acres. If they can still get over a 4' fence with clipped wings, then I doubt our plan will work. Thy're too expensive to risk them running off....and there are lots of loose dogs around, so they probably wouldn't survive if they jumped outin any direction. The dogs won't come in our fence, but they'll definitely take anything that jumps out. I was hoping the dense woods and shrubs would keep them safe from aerial predators (this is jungle so dense you can't walk through it), but again, an expensive gamble...
Not sure where to put this post since there's not turkey section, but here it goes...
We have 2.5 acres well fenced with 4'high fencing that's also somewhat electrified and will be running our dairy goats and pigs back there. (This is the future plan, lol, we are finishing fencing and looking for goats to buy right now) I'm wondering about throwing some turkeys back there since they like wooded areas. Obviously we would brood them well - from what I'm reading, that would be about a month or so long? And then put them loose back there in the dense woods with feed and water. Is this a recipe for disaster? There's lots of high trees they can roost in, but I'm also concerned about them jumping over the fence....will owls get them if they're in dense woodland? Is this a terrible plan? Welcome to any advice!
Has anyone grown bananas in a non-tropical location? It looks like the california gold banana will grow in my tx environment, so I would like to start prepping the ground. I know they are heavy feeders, so I'm planning to put several inches of manures, compost, mulch, etc down. We have terrible terrible soil (literally no nutrients, and very acid). Any thing else we should do? We eventually want a hoop house to grow mango, papaya, pineapple, banana in.
Oreganodoes grow painfully slow. Definitely beeds sun, even putting it out during the day, and being sure not to over water. But it took me a full year to get a big enough plant to think anout harvesting from.
If I remember correctly when we had the Sheetrock down there is a brick facing just like the front.
Certainly a question would be what kind of heat could I get for the house? To the right of the fireplace is the kitchen and living room, which is about a 1/3 of the house. To the left is the bedrooms and baths. The house is about 1600 sq feet, with pretty good insulation, but not on the level of spray foam.
That is an interior wall, there is one room on the other side. The house is only 1 story.
I’m not entirely sure. I know some portion of the chimney is exterior brick, empty space, and then the actual chimney, I don’t know if that goes all the way down. Once it hits the ceiling it is just the chimney.
I don’t mind losing some space.
The floor is vinyl tile on the concrete foundation.
I don’t know how, but I’m sure I can learn how to lay fire brick.
My only real concern would be the aesthetics of it. We have no real intention of selling, but I would hate to do something that would drastically effect the Desirability of the house or the appraisel. If I can make it look nice I’m all in.
We have a standard fireplace and I was wondering if I could convert it into a usable RMH. I have looked around and not really been able to find much on this topic. We live in SE Texas so granted it’s not a life or death situation. If I could cut our propane bill though and make ourselves just generally cooler that would be great. I also dislike the fact that I can’t have a fire without actually making ourselves colder... a picture of the fireplace is attached.
Thanksfor this! We are starting year 2 on our homestead and dream of a day when my husband could not have an off-site full time job. It's always nice to have encouragement along the way and reminders to pace ourselves!
We were hoping to use field fencing but are worried about the mini goat kids getting out (they can be as small as 4 lbs)....because it is WAY cheaper, and what we have around our front yard. I'm glad to know the electric works well and that it's fairly coyote proof - we do have coyotes and foxes, although we may end up bringing the animals up at night anyway. Not sure yet. Thanks!
We are a small homestead with the typical menagerie - from a full sized horse down to mini goats as well as pigs, donkey, poultry, dogs. We may get a dairy cow evenually. We do not intend to ever have male animals that will seriously challenge fencing. We are planning to do 2x4 wire mesh no-climb fencing, h-braces at the end, t-posts between, and probably 2 strande of electric - one at pig level and one at goat level. Anything else that would work better? Anything that would work that would be cheaper?? We are looking at at least $1.50/ft to do this, which is crazy, but anything with bigger holes would let baby goats out. Thanks for any advice.
We are beginning to work on the back 2.5 acres of our land. Itis untouched except for some minimal logging (so no trees over about 9" diameter) and full of thorny vines, briars, oaks, maples, youpons, and other scrub brush, etc. We recently discovered 3 30' tall wild persimmon trees back there as well as a small 4' one. We would like to encourage them to grow more without destroying the healthy natural ecosystem around them. I am assuming that trimming the less desirable trees back so that the small persimmon gets more light would be helpful. We are getting dairy goats and pigs next year, so will begin to clear the land that way and use it as browsing pasture. How do we go about clearing around them so they are easily harvested and the small ones can grow better without just destroying all the growth around them?
The property we purchased last year (in tx) has basically no nutrients/vitamins/minerals/organic matter in the soil. Except iron, which is extremely high. It is a pH of around 5. I am having problems with my horse's hooves and am guessing it's because of the high iron content in the grass. We will be getting a cafeteria style mineral feeder for the animals, to hopefully let them balance their own diet and gradually add some mineral back into the ground.
Is there something go do to help the soul balance itself? Broadcasting other minerals would be too expensive for 5 acres, I think, but I haven't exactly priced it.
Good to know that we didn't pull them early enough. Our vines never died, so we kept not pulling the tubers, because we read to leave them until the leaves started yellowing. We saw the tops of the tubers, which looked very small, popping through the mulch, so we kept waiting. We finally decided to dig one up, and realized that the tiny tops of the tubers ballooned out into ridiculously huge sweet potatoes below ground. So we figured that we left them too long!
If you bury the vines, they will produce more tubers? Is there anything more to this technique? I did wonder when some of the vines had rooted and had 12"-18" long thick red roots, but sonce they had not bulbed out into round tubers, I figured they would not do anything more.
I may try overwintering some slips in a pot, then, as it sounds like it may work well. Idk, we'll see if I can find a good place inside to keep a pot full of. vines with two toddlers in the house....
1) our sweet potato crop are lrge and beautiful but dry when we bake them and a bit paler than normal. What can cause this? We cured them 2 weeks, but this was our first time growingg them. Could they have just needed more water? We didn't really water them.
2) after digging up the potatoes, lots of vines have started to regrow from the root bits that were left in the ground. We do get at least one freeze each year, so I know they can't grow perennially, but has anyone tried overwintering slipsin pots instead of starting new ones from roots? We can plant them mar 1, so I am wondering about digging some up, planting them in a pot for 5 months, and then replanting them. We had a difficult time getting slips started last year, as they rooted in water and then died when we transferred them to outside, so this may actually be easier. Any advice would be appreciated. I don't want vines taking over my house, lol...
We have a wet area on our property that we want to plant sugar cane and pawpaw in. Does anyone know if animals will eat these? We will have skall pigs, small goats, horse, and donkey back there. We will be rotating the animals, and we will let the plants get eastablished first, but we are wonderinng if animals really love these and will demolish them? Especially the sugar cane, I'm thinking the animals might learn how sweet it is...
Has anyone tried growing peanuts perennially by just leaving a plant in the ground? We are in tx, so I'm wondering if they would rot after we getour singular freeze in the winter. Any thoughts are welcome! Trying to figure out how to grow everything perennially or self sown!
Great! Next year I'll try these ideas. We can do trap plants and check them each morning, and I think we can get a crop before after the borer season. O would absolutely save seeds if I ever find anythinng successul! Last year we bough heirloom varieties of butternut, and other moschata varieties, and everything died I think we will mainly just have to get them started earlier and then try a fall crop. We definitely also need to help our soil, there's no question that it's bad, but it's getting better every year!
We have horrible squash borers! We are in tx and this year the borers got every summer squash AND every winger squash (which are supposed to be immune). We have as much of a permaculture type garden as we can - they are mixed in with other plants, flowers, herbs, etc. does anyone know of specific plants that might confuse them? Or of specific squash types that are really difficult for them to penetrate? They are a moth that lays its egg on the base of the stem and the larvae burrow into the stem and live there until hatch. They then burrow into the soil until next year. I'm hoping the chickens got the larvae out of the soil, but I don't really know. I really don't want to deal with row covers, but I really do want squash....
If you check out "american homestead" on youtube, they have an episode about the outdoor canner they built. It's HUGE since she cans most of their food for the winter from their garden. That could allow you to do all your canning more easily.