I have followed up the issue of forest burning without creating a disaster.
They set a fire in a spiral manner so it can only grow as far as the spaCE TO THE NEXT Spiral, and not getting too hot.
I have to learn about the final ring and how that is controlled, maybe because the fire is small it can be extinguished.
From; cool burns ‘Cool fire’ can be used to promote a particular type of growth through frequent burning, for example clears undergrowth, promoting diversity in plants, good for better access for people and animals, looks after large established trees, promotes grass and new growth, which attracts animals.
Plants that grow after mild fire tend to include more species than before fire. But the practices for using fire in this way are nuanced and complex, and require a detailed knowledge of the land.
Burning frequency varies, depending the plant community – whether it’s grass, shrub, forest, and what type of forest – some monthly, some yearly, some every 10-15 years.
J Hillman, the topic is not about homes falling down.
I have built many sheds not to code and a few huts on my farm.
They were not built to live in 100% of the time.
But I am of the belief a well built home will be efficient with energy use and may save the additional cost of building to code.
Essentially where I am located codes are for the benefit of any subsequent purchaser, and I guess less damage may occur in storms if built well resulting in better insurance premiums.
The advantage of building to a code has benefits as listed;
- Enable a mortgage to happen.
- may be easier to sell.
- if built by a contractor it is built to a standard.
- will work as you expect.
- you may get better insurance at potentially lower cost.
I would also like to be able to have the ventilation automatically take advantage of high daytime temperatures in summer and low nighttime temperatures in winter to stabilize the internal temperature.
How do you think a high external temperature will assist in evening out the temperature?
It would help if you listed the area where you are located, so we can see the weather variations, see if it is always cool at night.
Iy would help if you explained the building orientation as well.
Is 'wood insulation' any good.
Have you considered using a very solid wall that is exposed to the outside, even having a shade wall on it if it gets direct sun on it.
A variation of a Trombe wall may work for you in cooling it in summer.
From ; Trombe Wall A Trombe wall is usually an 8–16 in. thick masonry wall coated with a dark, heat-absorbing material and covered by a single or double layer of glass, placed from about 3/4–6 in. away from the masonry wall.
Heat from the sun is stored in the air space between the glass and dark material and conducted slowly to the interior of the building through the masonry through the conduction and convection mechanisms.
The same wall can be used to cool, by shading the wall in the day and opening it up at night, when its cool,
Trombe wall cooling function. From that site;
At night, air movement is induced by the warm air inside the Trombe wall air gap.
The air gap sucks the cool outdoor air into the interior space, replacing the warm indoor air through natural convection.
Therefore, the Trombe wall is used for increasing the air flow that enhances the cross ventilation for cooling.
Larry I have to brag here!
I am building a sauna on a trailer in Australia, and scored enough cedar wall planks 25mm thick cut 1200mm long. ship lap joints.
It was a $3000 timber order not picked up by a builder and the big box store just wanted it out after a year or two.
Right place, right time, right amount of cash in pocket.
Blake, you asked about how to catch more water, now you are talking about water freezing.
I will answer the first.
If you look at the link in my signature there is a lot about capturing rainfall for drinking.
If you have a 20,000L tank the water will clean itself and you will not need, filters, charcoal, chemicals and UV lights.
IMO 200L barrels are a waste of time if you are serious about rainfall catchment.
I have been wanting to do something a bit more involved but this is not my forever house
I do not understand why people have the mind set of "forever "homes.
Surely it stifles enjoyment of what you have and prevents improvement for the sake of it.
As for moving a hose, have you considered installing a manifold?
Jon, what a conundrum you have got yourself, to believe your girl friends or believe people that know.
- compost toilets have exhaust fans that deal with odours
- plastic pipes can be painted to represent old cast iron
- roof can be insulated 35C is too hot to habitate
Russ I used to smoke a pipe but I realised it may be harmful to me so I gave it up.
too many people wanted to jamb it down my throat.
But I am surprised by this comment you made!
"The engine manufacturers changed to fuel injection to keep people away from tinkering with old style carburetor. "
Going back to a question I put, "- Can the slope the water is running down be modified to slow water down? With weirs, steps etc"
Basically the system seems to have reverted back to an almost natural system before the ponds were built.
But with the water path concentrated to a narrow path..
Erosion occurs when the speed of the water is fast enough to carry soil particles or rocks along.
I had a flood last week that swept 11/2 inch rock off my roads and through the neighbours property.
Some points to consider;
- can the initial dam C be redug? It would only slow down the initial flush of water, but if it worked before it may work again.
- Can the slope the water is running down be modified to slow water down? With weirs, steps etc
Purple martins suffered a severe population crash in the 20th century widely linked to the release and spread of European starlings in North America. European starlings and house sparrows compete with martins for nest cavities. Where purple martins once gathered in the thousands, by the 1980s they had all but disappeared.
Kel, attaching hempcrete to a curved wall and ceiling may be impossible.
And the steel will prevent breathing.
Maybe go back to first principles and explain what you are trying to finish with.
You quoted " Quonsets and A-frames seem to be fairly budget friendly ways to achieve a livable space."
Can I ask what your limitations actually are? Can you offset limited use of your arms with computer skills to earn cash to employ arms?
What size is required, what location is the said home to be situated and what would yopur dream materials be?
The diameter of the pipe changes the speed of the air for a given volume per hour of volume change.
The inlet pipe may be best to bring down close to the floor and the outlet pipe keep neaqr the ceiling at the other end of the room to ensure as much movement of air as possible.
Poles like that are useful and should not be sold as scrap, somebody will want it as a post .
As Tim suggests break the concrete off, it will be too heavy to move easily.
As for the concrete, urbanite can be useful.
i hope you are planning to keep the wildness of the area in place.
Sean, channels in sandy soil do not work, they leak.
Drip irrigation is very good, and I would encourage you to fit disc water filters to the system.
They prevent blockage and can be easily washed clean.
Irrigation lines will go anywhere, but make sure you have complete loops, not branch lines, the water pressure in the lines will be higher and more even.
Make sure you have adequate sized lines, many people have them too small.
My worry is that it only one wall connecting other outbuilding that have been flexing with the moving ground and a slab of rigid concrete may disturb the equilibrium?🤔 Moreover if it is an expense I can do without paying all the better!
Did you read what you actually typed?
There seems to be something missing.
I think your self appointed advisors need to be grilled for their experience in wall building and their depth of knowledge ton the subject.
I have experience, but I would need to see the wall and have some local experience on hand to help me.
The issue of water getting inside the wall, that is a key point.