You may be an empath. Do you feel others emotions? Some are overwhelmed by groups and cities. They recharge through solitude and quiet. Many people like to unload their heartfelt worries and fears on them, they are sought out as confidants. But for some empaths it is too much. They become reclusive as a defence mechanism. Empaths are on the opposite end of the spectrum from narcissists.
I've been thinking about how feasible it would be to make hydraulic lime from oyster shells with a large rocket stove. Would it be possible to make a rocket stove out of 18" cement drain tile pipe by lining the interior with high temp blanket insulation, coated with a fireproof coating? An additional section of pipe with a grate could hold the shells above the heat chamber and the pieces of "cooked" shell could fall through to a bin below the J-tube.Now that hemp is legally grown the hurds should become more available. I envision having some of those square plastic tanks(with the metal frames around them) full of slaked lime ready to mix with the hurds to build up walls that I frame up with 6" poplar poles which I have in abundance on my small acreage. Yeah, I know I'm a dreamer but,,, Any thoughts? Be gentle
I grew up in a hunting family in northern Wisconsin. It was an important part of our food supply as well as our 2 huge gardens. I loved to hunt rabbits with my beagle and grouse with my .410. During those days I found myself spending a lot of quality time alone hunting and fishing. My family liked to hunt as a group with some driving the deer and others standing on escape routes and they were very successful. I really didn't care for it much as I didn't see it as skilled hunting but rather skilled harvesting, not trying to be an elitist but rather hunting grew to mean more to me than that. So I began bow hunting when I moved to Oregon and took to it like fish to water. What I love about it is the quiet and the need to get close. After hearing about some guys stalking in their socks I got the idea to sew and glue shag carpet to some moccasins. Well let me tell you, now I was hunting! I actually had a sleeping bull elk at 3 feet! I guess my point is understand your effective range of accuracy and enjoy the skills to get within that range. I've never hunted from an elevated stand or a blind or over bait. It's ok for those who like to hunt like that and that's not the point I'm trying to make. The point is learning lost skills of hunting, studying your quarry and using that knowledge to be successful. Deer and elk pick up on movement so my answer is to move so slow, 30 sec/slow motion step, that they never identify you. Use the wind, cover scents most likely work to some degree and you can make your own. Native Americans would sometimes scrub down with sand in the creeks and then rub down with ferns, hard core right? As far as bows go, don't over-bow by trying to shoot more poundage than is comfortable and shoot a bow that fits your draw length. Scouting is important because you can't shoot what isn't there. Some noises can help you, certainly the right call at the right time like bugling or grunts work. But a quiet squeak through your teeth can cause a distant deer to get curious and if done very sparingly can cause them to investigate. Hunting is fun and soothing to the soul, enjoy!
I enjoy making ancient weapons, bows and arrows, slings, atlatls and anything else I'm curious about. One of the materials I have used is hide glue and I'm very impressed with it's qualities especially when combined with dried tendon. I have only used hide glue that I bought and while that was a great introduction to this wonderful stuff I want to learn how to make my own and to expand my knowledge about which hide glues fit which jobs. I want to try laminating wood with hide glue in the future as well as making a special decorative plaster mimicking marble (called scagliola) which uses "animal glue". So any knowledge sharing will be enthusiastically accepted.
First you have to hunt where the animals are. You can contact your state biologists who will point you towards good places of habitat in your area. Preseason scouting is huge towards being successful. Rifle season tends to be more competitive than bow so numerous scouted areas are needed to allow you your own space. We are modern man, we walk like it and animals hear and know our sound and scent. You have to take measures to minimize both of these. Hunt into the wind, learn about thermals in the mountains and how to use them, deer and elk do. Listen a lot, cup your ears and pay attention to even small sounds. Learn patience, sit for an hour so the woods goes back to normal before you begin your slow "still hunt". Hunt every hunt as if you will be successful, by that I mean be prepared to properly care for the animal as in game bags, tarps, ropes, pack frames, saw, anything that ensures the quality of the meat. Hunt up hill pack down if you can. Carry a compass always and check directions before entering the woods, Gps's are great but can fail. Get topo maps and learn how to read them. In areas that are mostly steep locate those out of the way "benches", little flatter areas, again preseason scouting. Big bodied elk like them, deer don't seem to care. Learn to call, with so much info out there you will easily find the calls that work for the season and animal you are targeting, just use them wisely and sparingly. Over calling might work on a mad rutting bull but talking to guys who successfully call will help you recognize when and how. Lastly be a thinking hunter, your brain is your best tool, recognizing a situation and capitalizing on it makes for a happy hunter.
I'm afraid of what's going on in the world today, and many changes are happening that don't compute well for me. This site/direction of life is my happy place. Thank you all for leading the way to a better happier life, baby steps for me.
Other favorite fasts of mine are stinging nettles and Chaga. Consuming super foods that have no toxicity at high levels can do wonders for the body, mind and spirit.
Fasting prepares the body for times of shortage/survival, and allows the body to better understand and remember not to panic and to enjoy the ride.
I'm intrigued with the idea of both chaga and stinging nettles being used this way. I'm learning slowly but steadily through this site,, I tried to quote part of this post but it came up as my message, no plagiarizing intended.
If I were to plaster a wood lathe ceiling I would choose gypsum scratch and brown coats and a lime and gauging plaster finish. Gypsum plaster can be mixed with sand or perlite and is easy to work with. It will set slowly unless you 'gauge' it up with agircultural gypsum, a hand full per mixed bucket is good for 45 minute set, more or less.
Cedar is used as lath because color won't leach into the plaster, also it is easy to split out thin slats for the lath. When applying the plaster, first wet the lathe generously so that the plaster has time to set rather than dry which causes cracks.
Scratch coat, 18 shovels of sand to 1/4 sack of hydrated and 1 sack of portland cement. Brown coat is 21 shovels of sand, 1/4 sack lime and 1 sack cement. Finish coat is 2 1/2 sacks dolomite (limestone) sand, 1 sack lime and 1 sack cement. For more durable finish, cut down the lime to 1/2 sack. I'm giving the recipes for the 3 coat stucco because you asked, not because I'm saying it is the system you should use.
Hydrated lime is lime that started as "hot lime" that has been slaked, then dried. It is not a setting material when water is added because the chemical reaction has already occurred from the kiln, then the slaking and drying process. This lime is good for binding other materials together and making them more plastic but not really a strong material by itself. Hot lime is slaked by sifting lime powder into water carefully (with eye protection!) and letting the chemical reaction commence until is is fully worked and excess water still stands on the surface.The lime is allowed to settle into a putty and completely hydrate before it is used. Hot lime is a setting material, it will take 50 years to reach it full strength but is sufficiently strong for construction even after the initial set. Hydrated lime putty can be mixed 50/50 with gauging plaster for smooth plaster work, gauging plaster is a gypsum based plaster. I have worked as a plasterer for 25 years and as a hod-carrier for another 10. Most of that work was commercial work so most all materials were processed and bagged. I am now retired and really enjoy reading, on this site, about old/new methods of earthen plasters and would like to work with them. I don't see where gypsum is discussed or used much by permies which makes me wonder if it might not seal off walls from water vapor on the inside just as cement stucco seals from the outside, or maybe there is another reason.
When cures, such as what Dr Burzynsky developed, are demonized by big medicine to the point that he was brought before a grand jury 5 different times to stop him(he won each time). The only patients he was allowed to see were those who were hopeless with large brain tumors and such, yet he saved many of those. Google him and watch the documentary, it will bring tears, and anger,,,
Don't forget maple syrup and baking soda. My niece was diagnosed with breast cancer about 10 years ago. Modern medicine did what it could but it was a native american medicine man that got her on chaga and turkey tail tea and also maple syrup/baking soda doses. She's doing great!
I'm not familiar with High Alumina cement but I have been curious about adding fine aluminum powder to a cement/perlite mix. Autoclaved aerated concrete is made similar to this by adding aluminum powder to a cement and sand slurry. The aluminum reacts with the cement and causes bubbles to form. After it sets up it is shaped (it's soft at this point) and then cured in an autoclave. My feeling is if you replaced the sand with perlite it may make a good core. My concern is that aluminum burns if hot enough and is it safe, with the now reacted form of aluminum, to not cause a problem.
My friend collects yellow jackets and hornets for anti-venom production. He recommends, as an earlier poster suggested, to vacuum the hive and then do it again the next day. He said the hive will collapse after that. He tapes pvc pipe to the vacuum hose and places it right at the hole.
A bow has to fit the shooter in order to be accurate. A person's draw length is roughly measured by holding your fist against a wall while pretending to draw a bow. measure from the wall to the corner of your mouth. This will get you close enough because fine adjustments can be made as you shoot enough to feel what is right. Compound bows will have stickers showing the adjustable draw weights, draw length and string length. New archers should choose a bow that pulls easy and can be adjusted heavier as they get stronger. Poor habits are learned from too heavy of draw or poorly fitted bows. The rule of thumb for a longbow length(tip to tip) to fit an archer is 2 x draw length plus 10%of the draw length. This allows the archer to draw the bow so that the string angle at the draw hand becomes 90deg at full draw. Drawing past 90deg will cause 'stacking' as mechanical advantage is lost. This is a good thing as a bow can be built to exactly fit a person and allow them to pull into 'the wall' which helps create a crisp release and a repeatable draw length. Arrows have to be matched to the force that the bow applies to them. They have to bend and recover correctly or they won't fly accurately. There are charts to help you choose the right arrows depending on type of bow, length of arrow and weight of arrow points or heads. The thing about bow hunting is you need to get in effective range, or the distance you are confident in making an accurate shot and this. in my opinion. is what makes bow hunting special. I have made moccasins from polar fleece and stitched and glued shag carpet to the soles. By taking one slow motion step every 30 seconds and keeping all other movements to a minimum you can get past a deer's defenses as long as you hunt into or cross wind. Learning calls and habits can make all the difference. By passing through the woods slowly and silently and watching the wind direction you can call more effectively than clomping through the woods, making sounds only man makes and giving a toodleloo before clomping off again. One thing about calling, just watch some videos on calling elk and you will see what I mean. The scenario usually goes like this, the hunters hear a bugle, they set up and call and by and by here comes the bull. He stops out about 70yds and holds up looking for the other elk. This is where so many screw up by what they do and do't do. Elk are big and eat like pigs. When the bulls are doing their thing, fighting, bugling,etc the cows are doing what? feeding. When something alarms the herd they go silent, not feeding and that silence screams danger. So here is what I do to relax the animal, I either twist my foot on the ground to make a little noise or, if possible, I strip and crunch leaves to sound like a feeding elk. Those bulls in the videos might hold up untilthey snap their head around when they hear something else make a noise and then they go to check it out and you will see it happen more than once. The strip and crunching leaves is really a great way to get close when conditions are dry, you become a herbivore to any animal that hears you. I've had deer and elk go from alarm to back to feeding even while looking at me, it can work well. Good luck to my friend.
Years ago I had the pleasure of being a hod-carrier for a wonderful plasterer craftsman. He taught me more than anyone else about my eventually future trade. One of the interesting old methods of insulation that was used in Norway piqued my interest and I believe it could work well for wattle and daub walls. Simply put, the insulation came from the creation of a double airspace by 3 layers of wattle and daub. Has anyone tried this?