I have 10 acres fenced high tensile to 7' with 9 wires (every 6 inches at the bottom). i have some fluttering stuff on it so they see it. Above 3' it alternates hot and ground. I get a deer inside a couple times a year, mostly because they were scared and ran through it. Any deer that figure it out have to be culled. I never have it off for more than a few minutes. The foxes definitely dont see it as a barrier, I've seen them jump through it. We have bears and had bees, and it suited both deer and bears. It is very very hot, at least 8kV.
This way my tender orchard is not getting obliterated every two weeks. more innovative deer would probably figure it out ours are pretty tame. I could add an attachment on the top with something fluttering as well, but so far so good. They have a hard time seeing it up high, and cant judge the height. I think its almost better not giving them a good look at it. I have seen them bounce off it, it is pretty tight (about 150lbs tension).
For cheap and decent ground rods I got some 1/2” rebar, drive it in when wet, and use double clamps from the plumbing section to hold the ground on from the charger. Cost is pretty modest. Make sure you mark them so you don’t mow them!
I have a 24 joule charger. That runs a perimeter fence and I use jumpers to run nets. So yeah grass pressure isn’t a big deal. I would recommend 0.5j per 100’ net for sheep to keep it spicy. They will not respect anything under about 4kv. If it’s dry double that, which most nets are not really designed for. Hot/ground alternate should be effective in dry climates, when it’s dry I dump water around the ground rod, and I drive two rods down with the portable setup (which is still 6j). With my alley setup I also have a couple of 8’ ground rods in permanently in strategic areas. Most of the issues with electric fencing I have seen are lack of grounding.
Since that time they were in the nets 4 months. Then in triple wire for one month. Just went to two wires last week. So far no escapes.
So encouraging! It really is minimal to do two wires compared to one so will probably just keep it until spring. In spring the grass grows so fast they never get hungry. Summer will tell. Did not eat the one underperforming one yet, my mentor suggested we wait and see if she’s a permanent runt or catches up.
Monarda (bee balm) is also a rhizome spreader just not as aggressive as mint. Buyer beware.
I have to say kudos on guilds, I’ve never had great success- I assume 50+% mortality and what remains is my guild! I had such a nice little professionally done drawing and it has so many iterations it is nothing like the original! Don’t be afraid of what works was unanticipated.
I’m a fan of comfrey garden borders if you can get a double row it really keeps stuff from growing in. Plus it doubles as a comfrey propagating patch.
I ended up planting 4 names hybrids which were quite expensive two years ago. They have gotten big enough to take cuttings this winter. I am not picky about growth habit and they have not yet produced. So I can’t comment on the success of this idea, but it was in my price range and a test to see if it could be massively expanded. As part of this my propagating technique is, um, rustic. Basically rooting hormone on a fresh cut second year stem, then into a deep bed of composted wood chips. I’m doing about 500 cuttings this winter. Total time outlay was a couple hours. I have other posts on here regarding propagating the lazy way with hardwood cuttings, and I’ll update when they manifest survival or failure. I’m doing several different species this year and have no idea which will perform. I started with goumi and serviceberry and that was great, so now it’s a broader experiment.
Liver is the first thing I eat after butchering- or even during. It is much better in my opinion never frozen.
Otherwise I absolutely agree with the general idea that thin sliced with onions are standard for a reason. I also adore lots of oregano or monarda (instead of pepper) which is traditional in Greek food. Cook hot not long.
And I seriously doubt you can badly overdo it unless it’s daily.
I’ve now built 4 gardens with wood chips. Typically I make a huge pile and leave it for a year or so where I’m going to have the garden. Then I spread it in the dimension of the garden. If we have a really high degradation year I put new chips over the old ones if I can get them so the garden is a foot deep. If it’s old chips only after they have settled and been rained on, traditional back to eden works well. The first year can definitely be low in nitrogen. Onions and squash will do fine but I normally do legumes heavily. Sweet potatoes are strong. Surprisingly corn did great.
If I top dress with new chips the first year is all about squash and tomatoes. I heavily use rock dust as well because calcium seems to be the limiting factor rather than nitrogen.
My other post a have lots of pictures we are typically buried in squash from each new garden ( I usually build one a year) and I usually grow 100# of garlic and 200# of onions over the winter in a typical 20x40 bed. Usually we get around 1000# of squash. This year I built two and I had so much I only moved the good ones! The rest are chicken food.
You will learn what you don’t know the first deer!
Understand field dressing. Eat the organs immediately. If it’s cool you have lots of time on the rest.
This is a natural and important process- be the predator we have eradicated. Appreciate the bounty and use it thoroughly.
Salted hides last a long time. I’ve done >6 months. I’ve done every tan chrome oak brain. I have been doing fresh water soak and then brain tanning but it’s not waterproof. If not this year then wait and learn the next. This is an epic journey like our ancestors
Poaching is a major issue around here. There are a lot of people with 1/2 acre lots that fill there tags suspiciously early in bow season who never have an archery target in their yard. And I know most of us have night vision so it’s not hard- deer are incredibly tame at night. You can almost walk up to them.
I’d venture on 6 acres well managed you could support ten deer easily around here. The problem is that they would be harvested by the neighbors. Domestic animals are more likely to stay on your place but predators are a much bigger issue. Squirrels on six acres managed as a primarily nut environment could be incredibly plentiful. I have been planting Chinese chestnut which eventually will drop a huge amount of pig forage but deer will also be very interested.
I will probably send a 20# box to someone on Permies who can dole them out as goodie bags. I won’t have them until summer since they are all planted at this point. I am doing the same with my landrace moschata seeds. If I have time I will do bone sauce but that has gotten back burnered. Seeds I’m pretty reliable just because they are things I’m saving anyway.
This is a natural process and is how deep minerals are procured in mature forests. We have some “older” growth forest on our lot and it’s quite dangerous out there when it’s wet and windy. Not really a happy situation near a structure but natural and necessary IMO. I would say in most climates (and I’m in a reasonably wet temperate one) water is still the limiting factor for total annual biomass production and deep soil water retention and dappled trees seem to produce insane growth.
Greg Judy (who is an absolute giant in my thinking) is flattening his swales this week. It doesn’t fit his management and he hasn’t seen the gains he thought would. Every intervention has an upside and downside.
For the obvious- don’t cut into more legs than you need to- one at a time.
I like the basic plan, take some to others to ensure it isn’t wasted. Our first pig prosciutto was kind of a race against mold. There are some videos on YouTube of how to trim a prosciutto, two main techniques- one for fairly rapid consumption like in a deli. This the skin and fat are removed entirely and meat is covered with a damp rag that must be changed frequently. Second way is to create a flap Thin enough to prevent much airflow on the meat and continue to trim as you progress in the cut. It does not have to be a perfect seal or anything. It’s kind of a pain but meat lasts well. Takes a few minutes every few days to extend and prepare the flap.
I miss the periodic Jack London moments. Yes they are stressful but that experience will steel you for a while. Glad you are well, but also glad you had the hard time and came out with knowledge and hormesis.
Adequate moisture is very important and if you have the means to soak them like mentioned or use cardboard you should have good success. Winecaps are really really tough and forgiving. Others like blewits are a little more picky. Still pretty easy though as long as they do not dry out until they have a month or so of time to invade to the depth they want.
That charger is only a 4.9j charger. I have no idea what the brush burden is on your fence but I have a 24 j charger for about 3x that distance. It should have a low voltage shut off function in the manual and I suspect that’s the issue but I don’t know. I have a 12j charger for the low wire since that one is the highest burden. In my experience most people don’t realize how many joules you need to push on a line with lots of small losses. Once you have a larger charger then you can trace the faults.
To give you an idea, my 24j charger will normally put out ~8j to charge to 8kv, but a few branches on the wire will make it push double the joules for 5kv, but that allows me to trace faults. I’ve also found that my buried insulated wires (Gates and initial wire run to the fence) are very significant losses. Like 1A per 20’. I have a few trees as posts and even with insulators I get induced current losses (pushing high voltage will do that) to where I can measure current in the tree!
Thought experiment- overheard power lines are 12.5kv and look at the insulation used. Little dinky tube insulators of crappy plastic with moisture will make losses pretty high.
All the shiitake sawdust spawn I have ever purchased is really a mix of sterilized sawdust with a few handfuls of grain spawn thrown in as the inoculant. That being said birds (at least chickens) will happily eat mycelium. I doubt I had any pill bugs o the logs, they were on a concrete pad well away from soil.
I thought the logs were destroyed but I used them as a walking path in the herb garden and Lo and behind two years later we got hundreds of shiitake off them. The logs actually colonized the wood chips near them (which is pretty cool!) and fruited exceptionally. A few were not successful but I’d say around 3/4 were ok. So don’t give up on the logs.
Looks like you have several more weeks before ground freeze. I’d get them in, and maybe add some chicken manure or something to generate a little heat( not much it will kill spawn). I’ve put down spawn pretty much all year and winecaps are very aggressive. When they fruit in late fall I’ve replanted the stems and they have grown new patches just fine.
I prioritize stuff I must do in the spring and anything else I do in the fall. Ironically I seed my spring plants in the fall if they need stratification. Let nature do the work! Areas I run chickens in the fall/winter not such a good plan.
You can use a amp meter as long as it holds the high reading. Measure amps along the fence and high reading will lead you to the short. Fence testers are made with that function from premier one and kencove.
Mike, I have Seminole as a parent of my landrace. I think it is likely the source of the trait. Plus they store amazingly. At least a year maybe two. Sheep eat around them as well which is hilarious! Thanks for your sheep input I’m in the game now!
Bamboo is a really good idea! I use pampas grass as a mulch as well, it is a good border. Stays in place and easily propagates.
I cut the Pampas grass (it’s 3-4’ high) in fall and it’s a good once a year mulch. I’m experimenting with it on the west side of some winter gardens this year, hopefully it will be a good windbreak. I haven’t seen the seeds make new plants I suspect it is sterile.
I use autumn olive in similar ways - anther legume shrub. I would recommend for best cover, another nonlegume shrub as well because the legume will degrade very fast. I use mulberry mostly. This is a really nice mix, and mulberry should be fine in most of the US. This is not a complete mulch just more as a bug habitat and eventual fertility.
Other trees and shrubs would be possible too. I know Mark Shepard uses black locust as a pollard plant. Willows tend to root, and I’ve had issues using crepe myrtle for the same reason.
My two year old caragana is almost 6” high. Everything else seems to grow like crazy so I’m giving up even though it’s a great plant. I just pollarded the autumn olio last week and I can do that twice a summer. Same wit the mulberries. I let it regrow for a couple months befor winter leaf drop.