If you have not found anyone I would be interested in talking to you and getting to know you a little better and see where it goes.
You can contact me here or directly @ firstname.lastname@example.org I look forward to hearing from you either way.
I am looking for 2 or 3 pieces of M27 apple rootstock. Does anyone grow this by chance and willing to trade or sell a few pieces?
I have found a couple of business that sell it but they wont ship till April and I will be needing it before then.
I purchased a bundle of 100 Emla 7, 3/16 apple rootstock and used only 56 of them. I still have 44 left and wondering if anyone would be interested in buying the remaining 44 left for $70 plus shipping. Has a good root system.
Please send me a message @ email@example.com Thank you
Central North Carolina
What would you charge for a service like that? I may be interested, I am starting 3 nucs this year and I have a angel trumpet plant close by. Might be interesting to know how much of that poisonous plant they are putting in the honey.
Does anybody know exactly what kind of stove/ heater this is along with it's value??. This has been out in the building for years and I believe I'm going to sell it but have no idea what kind of price to even put on it.. anyone interested in purchasing it may contact me though. 😁
I grafted over 200 apple trees last year. ( kept what I wanted and sold the rest ).
I have apple scion off these trees this year. ( probably enough to do 300 trees, 25+ different varieties.)
I enjoyed doing the grafting and had an excellent success rate of 95%
If I decide to order the rootstock of your choice and graft the apple trees would " ANYONE " be interested in purchasing "ALL" these trees ? ( freshly grafted or I will grow them all summer and you pick them up in the fall ? ) I am located in central NC.
You name the amount of trees - the varieties you would like ( only the scion I have ) - I will graft the trees - Grow them if needed through the summer - you pick them up in fall
Price will be based on how many trees you would like grafted along with rootstock choice and if you want them sent to you after grafting or if I have to grow them and upkeep them all summer long.
Feel free to send me a message and we can talk about it.
To make this short and sweet. Last year my daughter planted a couple strawberry plants in the garden. They have taken the garden over and now I want them out of my garden. They have spread and I would say there is at least 30 strawberry plants now. They are free to whoever would like to come get them. I am not sure when the best time to move a strawberry plant is but I would like them gone before I start tilling my garden. . I live in Denton North Carolina. You can contact me at looking27292 at yahoo.com.
Does anyone have or know of a place that has Lemon Queen Sunflower seeds that are reasonably priced or willing to give some away ? ( Looking for 1 - 2 lb )
Please contact me if you have some and willing to part with some.
I have done some searching for them and companies think they must be gold or something
I am getting into beekeeping spring of 2018 and would like to plant some for the bees.
I am not sure someone posted it yet but I'm going to mention it again if they have. Never store any Scion that you cut off of a tree in the refrigerator with any kind of fruit such as apples Etc. They emit a gas and it will make the Scion would start to bloom. That would be a big No-No.
Planted many varieties of apple trees on my property this year. The weather has turned cold below freezing and in the low 20's for days at a time. Half of the trees have lost their leaves and went dormant. The other half still has leaves on them that are green. Anyone have any idea what is going on here??? Should I be worried about these trees not going dorment yet??
Going to start beekeeping in Spring of 2018. I'm looking into a bee suit and wondering if there's an economical one that is still fairly decent. I live in North Carolina so the summers are hot. Any recommendations?
I have put fasteners on the hives because I have grandsons that love to play basketball in the driveway (5 & 6 ) The basketball hoop is probably about 70-80 feet away from the building.. I am scared a wild loose ball might go over and hit the hives and maybe knock one. ( just a safety precaution on my part ) We all know that basketball's do sometimes go astray.
I am thinking of placing them on the concrete pad facing the building with about 10 feet in between them. That will still allow me to go to the back sides of the hive to take care of them when needed. I think this should be enough room but honestly I am not sure and that is the reason I am asking. I know on the concrete pad they would get the earliest sun possible for about 20-30 minutes before it ducks behind the building for about another hour. After that it would be getting the rest of the day in sunlight. I live in Central North Carolina.
I have read that here in NC the majority of people do use screened bottom board so that is of course what are on all my hive boxes. I do know that screen is not cheap..
With me getting 5 frame nucs and putting them into an 2 frame double deep hives should I expect to get any honey this coming year ?
Thank you for your reply.
I grafted 20 plus varieties of apple trees in march of 2017. They have grown very well over the summer- 5-6 foot average. I will be cutting them back in February and wondering if there is an organization ( prefer not an individual where profit can be made from my free giving ). An organization that would accept the scion and graft all these trees and place them out where people can enjoy them for free. I am not sure if something like what I am talking about exist but if anyone has a direction they could point me in it would be appreciated.
I did not know I was going to start something like this when I posted my questions. I do however like the different viewpoints from different people. I appreciate all your replies so far and hope a lot more will be posted. I do see some questions in the first message "not" being addressed.
1-propolis trap ? Is there an advantage or disadvantage to collecting propolis and how long will it keep ?
2 - mixed replies on how many hives on an 8 foot long stand ? I am limited to the space so spreading the hives over a acre lot would be very hard.
3- placement of the hive ? Is there enough space if I put it close the building/shed?
4- Medications that i might need in the future. Live in North Carolina so the summers are hot and humid. Just go organic and its advantages/disadvantages ?
5- The original picture shows what equipment I currently own. How many hives should I consider getting with that equipment and still have enough on hand so that I do not have to purchase or build more? 2-double deeps - 2 single deeps -2 five frame nuc boxes- 2 swarm boxes ? They are sitting on top of the 8 foot hive stand I built out of eastern red cedar. ( 16 inches high ) Do I just put any splits into the nuc boxes or straight into the single deep boxes ?
6- I purchased some hive fasteners . Does anyone else use them and how do you like them or is this just a waste of money ?
All the equipment is 8 frame not 10 frame. Nuc and swarm box are 5 frame.
I am self learning beekeeping and I do understand that everyone does it different and I have to find something that works for me. I as well understand or at least think I understand that beekeeping sorta evolves when new pests,disease occur so I will never know everything but I do want to straighten out the learning curve as much as possible and give the bees every chance of survival that I can give them. I will have to learn my own technique and that is the reason I enjoy reading these post and trying to see various viewpoints.
( Thinking .. No one has said anything about my artistic skills ... whew.. )
I do apologize ahead of time for the long winded paragraph but I wanted to give some background information along with what equipment I have obtained and my goals.
I decide last year to graft some apple trees and plant them on the property , now I want to get into beekeeping. It was mid July when I decide this so I quickly built 2 swarm boxes to see if I could catch a late swarm and get some bees for free. Needless to say it did not happen which might have been a blessing because I did not have the equipment or knowledge that I needed to keep them. Since then I have been reading and watching videos but the local bee association has a lot to be desired in my county. I think there last post was in July.... anyways. I went and purchased 2 hives ( 2 deep , 1 medium, bottom board-screened , inner cover , telescoping cover , all 8 frame "not 10" all Langstroth also purchased 2 extra mediums for future use.). Then I found a bee supply company that I put an order in for 2 - 5 frame nucs in the spring of 2018. So my bees are already paid for so that is one less thing I have to worry about. After more research I realized that I might have to split these hives before the end of summer to stop them from swarming. So I built 2 nuc boxes figuring I would use them for the split. After thinking and kicking myself in the @ss and realizing I has enough lumber laying around I would just build my own 8 frame deeps and other components in case of the split. My equipment so far is as follows> 2 complete double deep hives with a medium on top. 2 nuc boxes 2 single deep boxes and 2 swarm boxes. I have a smoker ,2 queen excluders , beetle traps, front feeders and top feeders, hive tool, lemongrass oil for the swarm boxes , hive fasteners so the boxes do not fall I know I still need a bee suit.Never thought I would have this much time and money invested this already. I built an 8 foot long hive stand out of cedar that I had in the shed as well. I was told not to expect any honey this year from the hives being it was the first year which is fine with me, the honey is just an added bonus to me but "yes" i do look forward to getting some. That is some background information on the equipment that I currently have purchased. Now that I built an 8 foot long hive stand how close can I put the hives together or how many should be placed on the stand? I have read about propolis traps , is there a benefit of putting one on the hives or just let the bees do their thing? How long is propolis good for if I do decide to use one ? I know the hive should be facing the morning sun in order to get the bees going but on my property the only morning sun is out in the yard facing the whole back yard. When I mow the yard am I going to have to put a bee suit so that I do not get stung on the mower... ? I have one other place I could put it but it is close to a building/shed that I use for storage. I would have to set the bees back about 10 feet on a concrete pad facing the side of the building. Is this adequate space for the bees or is it to close. I as well will have to weed eat the creek/ run off ditch on the other side of the bees so is there going to be a problem there as well with the bees? What kind if any medications should or can I buy ahead of time that I may need later ? I did contact the local extension office about possibly being informed in the spring and getting a phone call to go capture swarms. They took my number and told me they would call me because last year they had about 10 calls for swarms. when I did talk to them about beekeeping information they directed me to the county beekeepers association. I left a message on the website introducing myself and asking a question it was never replied to after 4 weeks so I just left the site. How many swarms/ total hives can I get without running out of equipment along with being efficient and not killing the bees ? I am not sure what if any are going to swarm since I am new to beekeeping. I just do not have that knowledge yet. I live in central NC so the weather is not brutal as it would be up in the northern states.
I have included a picture of what I have obtained so far.
Thank you for your reply in advance.
I know something is going to be said about my artistic skills so I will put it this way to you - I consider myself a carpenter not a painter and "no" I do not plan on quitting my day job ( laughing )
I am new to grafting myself and have spent "many" hours reading and watching videos. I will try to share some information that I have seen with you. It might have an impact on which rootstock to use.
NAKB 9 (M-9-337) [30-35% size of standard tree] The standard to which most Malling 9 type rootstocks are compared. Requires support. Very precocious and produces large fruit. Resistant to collar rot. Susceptible to fire blight.
BUD 9 (Budagovsky 9) [35-40% size of standard tree] Precocious. May be more tolerant to fire blight than M-9. Resistant to crown and root rots. Extremely winter hardy. Requires support. Moderate suckering.
M-9 Pajam #2® (USPP 7715-Cepiland) [35-40% size of standard tree] Slightly more vigorous and productive dwarf rootstock that produces a tree similar in size to M.9, EMLA 9 or NIC 29. Requires support. Susceptible to fire blight. Superior rooting compared to other 9 clones.
VF EMLA 26 [40-50% size of standard tree] Precocious. Requires support. Moderately resistant to powdery mildew. Most hardy of Malling series rootstocks. Light suckering. One of most widely planted rootstocks in the USA.
Geneva 41® [35-40% size of standard tree] Fully dwarfing rootstock similar in size to M.9 with precocity and productivity surpassing M.9 in trials. Cold hardy and highly resistant to fire blight and crown rot.
Geneva 11® [40-45% size of standard tree] Good precocity. Recommend using support. Resistant to collar rot and fire blight.
Geneva 935® [40-50% size of standard tree] Semi-dwarfing stock similar in size to M.26. Most precocious and productive of the semi-dwarfing rootstock. Cold hardy and highly resistant to fire blight and crown rot.
Geneva 210® [60% size of standard tree] This rootstock is precocious, fireblight and woolly apple aphid resistant and cold hardy.
Geneva 890® [60-65% size of standard tree] This rootstock is highly resistant to woolly apple aphid and fireblight. It is also cold hardy and self supporting.
*****All Geneva rootstock descriptions are based on New York growing conditions, so mature tree size may be different in different climates and growing conditions.
EMLA 7 [50-60% size of standard tree] One of the most popular rootstocks in the commercial industry. Somewhat precocious. Fruit size often small. May require support. Resistant to collar rot and fire blight. Adapts well to a wide range of soil types and climates. Has tendency to sucker.
EMLA 106 (VF MM106) [60-70% size of standard tree] Semi-vigorous rootstock that crops early and requires no support. Resistant to woolly apple aphid, but susceptible to collar rot. Excellent anchoring qualities with well-developed root system. Produces an early fruiting tree with heavy cropping.
EMLA 111 [75-85% size of standard tree] Vigorous, well anchored, resistant to collar rot and woolly aphids. Tolerant of a wide range of soil conditions, and a good selection for heavy, poorly-drained soils.
BUD 118 [95% size of standard tree] Extremely winter hardy stock that does not require support. Precocity is similar to an EMLA 106. Resistant to collar rot and apple scab.
MALUS SPROUT FREE® [100% standard size tree] New, cold hardy, highly sucker resistant, vigorous, well-anchored rootstock for flowering crab apple cultivars. Hardy to Zone 3
If you look at the different rootstocks you will notice some require support . Which means you should stake the tree to help support it. Other critters ( as you put it ) will eat a new small apple tree down to a nub and kill it for sure. Apple trees "need and should" get chill hours even if you put them in the tunnel.
Just something to think about....
I have 185 apple trees (27 varieties) and 15 pear trees (7 varieties) for sale. They were grafted this year in 3 gallon containers and now stand about 5-6 ft tall. I am an individual that got a little carried away on grafting for the first time and had an “excellent” success rate and now have an overabundance of trees. I also have a limited quantity of “red flesh apples” that is included in the 185 apple trees. I am looking to sell these trees to anyone that would appreciate the hard work it has taken to grow them as well as knowing that “my trees are out there “.
$15 apple trees
$15 pear trees
$20 red flesh apple trees
All 200 trees purchased @ 1 time for $2500.00These trees would make someone a great start to an orchard. The ripening dates are approx. dates do to the fact of your location but will give you some idea.
Feel free to contact me with any questions @ firstname.lastname@example.org (subject – trees)
I would also like to thank everyone in this group that has answered my questions when I post them. It has been a learning experience along with knowledge that I will never forget.
I am located in central North Carolina
I by no mean am an expert but, only doing this for the first time this year. ... I understand everyone has different results. I had a 96% grafting success rate which I have been told by several people that there was no way I would do that good on my first year grafting. Secondly I would do mine in pots again without a shadow of a doubt , I did not spare any expense on the soil because we all know that is what is going to make them grow. I will include some picture of my pear trees and apple trees and the tape measure is sitting on top of the soil .. ( not beside the pot ). I of course looked and measured my tallest trees but on average they are all 5 - 6 in height. I do have the exception of some that have grown 7 feet in height as the pictures will show. These trees ( I can call them trees now) were grafted in March right into a 3 gallon container, I am currently putting my trees in the ground and the trees have a great root system on them.
BTW , I do have these trees for sale , 185 apple -27 different varieties 15 pear -7 different varieties.
If you decide to purchase any they will be local pick up only because they are in 3 gallon containers. ( weight )
Located in central North Carolina
$15.00 a pc -apple & pear
red flesh apple $20 a pc
If you want to buy them all then the cost is $2500
I do have a limited number of red flesh apple trees included in the 185. ( 4 or 5 )
If you want to start yourself a home orchard then these trees would be an excellent start, They have been grown in North Carolina all year long in the sun and already acclimated to the outside temperatures. As of Monday Aug. 21 they will be certified through the NCDA for disease and bug free. I had the NC state head extension horticulture gentleman look at them as well on Aug 25th. and give his approval that the trees were doing excellent.
I am going to attempt to make an espalier fence ( image1) with my grafted apple trees that I planted about month back. I have no experience what so ever doing this other then what I am reading about on the internet. I am pretty sure I can do this but I have a question that I can not find the answer to so I am going to see if any here has attempted this or has any knowledge on this subject.
I have 6 different varieties of apple trees already planted in the ground that are 11 feet apart. What would happen if in the years to come when the branches on each row came close enough to connect I decided to graft them together ? ? This would then so to say link all 6 trees together side by side all the way down the line ... Would there be any benefit to connect them together and would there be a downside to connecting together ? ? ? I will attempt to make a drawing of exactly what I am talking about so you may get a better idea... I am not an artist so please bare with my drawing
I will be making the espalier fence with cables running from one end to the other so that I can train the trees along the same wire. Image 2 is my ( so called Pablo Picasso drawing ) where I was thinking about joining them together.
As you can see by this picture they are all growing and looking good.
P.S. - I Have about 200 trees available for purchase, ( I already have my 38 trees that I am keeping put to the side )
I live in Central North Carolina if anyone is interested in purchasing any or all of them.
I have had problems with Jap. beetle but nothing some spray did not take care of to get rid of them. Trees are growing very vigorously still to the point there are a few that are starting to lean a little. ( I might have to put some support stake in them before long to keep them straight ) All the tree branches below 18 inches I have clipped off and the side branches or feathering is taking off as well. I have been watering them everyday because of the hot temperatures drying them out. ( Had a good rain come through the other day so I did not water that day and that day about 2pm I noticed the tree tops wilting some so I did an emergency midday watering which I do not like to do and learned a valuable lesson... check the soil daily even if it rains ) The trees jumped right back up and gave them another good watering that evening.
I stood two trees beside my Tahoe to give you some idea how big and tall the trees are getting.
I agree with everyones opinion. I grafted many apple trees this year (march) and had several different varieties bloom ( not all but some ) and had to go around and pinch the blooms off. You want all the energy that is being produced to go right into the growth of the whole tree. If you leave the apple on then you are allowing the trees energy to be used into producing apple in which the branches can not support and will eventually break off anyways.
I have noticed a bunch of my grafts are getting side branches coming off the top shoot. They are not affecting the top growth that I can see., smallest graft has 18 inches growth and the tallest has about 44 inches growth. Now I see that branches are coming out the side of the newly grafted scion.
Should I cut the side branches completely off now?
Cut them 1/2 back ?
Let them grow till fall when I prune them all back ?
Let them keep growing ?
Here it is June 4th and the trees are looking great. Looks like when I moved them out from under the carport it took a while to adapt but they are growing like weeds again. Had some trouble with cedar rust and some bug problems but nothing that some spray did not cure. This will probably be the last update I do on the trees unless someone is still interested in me updating this thread.
I will be keeping about 30-35 trees for myself and try to sell the remaining trees to recoup some of my money. Anyone interested in buying some apple and pear trees feel free to hit me up and we can talk. I know it may not be the appropriate time of year to sell them but I will try to get something going on the remaining 220 trees. I will add the picture I took today along with the list of varieties of apple and pear trees that will be available for purchase.
I am located in central NC and the trees are in 3 gallon containers so it will be " LOCAL PICKUP ONLY".
I have never attempted to graft any trees before this year and think I have done very well. I would like to thank everyone here for answering the questions I had pertaining to grafting and growing the trees.
Leave me a msg /purple mooseage if interested in some trees.
Had a "huge" (16 -20 inch across) eastern red cedar tree beside the house and decided to cut it down. Hauled the wood to the sawmill to get it cut up into lumber , then hauled it to the local dry kiln to dry it out. Then hauled it to a friend that planed the wood and cut the edges for me. I had no idea what to make out of the lumber but being it came off the property I knew I wanted to make something so I decided I would attempt to make a cedar dining room table. Took the lumber to a friends barn where he has all the tools that I needed to get started. So I figured out what I was going to do and started glueing and screwing, after many hours and a few tweeks to the original diagram I have finished the table.( except for the legs being powder coated ) By no means do I consider myself a wood worker kind of person but I did my best and I am very proud of how things turned out. When I got the lumber back from the planer it was all 7/8 inch thick ( not 3/4 ) as I asked.
The table is made out of 12" heart eastern red cedar and lined on the bottom with 12 " boards running the opposite way for more stability( glued and screwed for more support , probably over kill but oh well ). The edges are made out of a maple,cedar, maple with a piece of cedar under that running across all 3 boards. All 3 edges have been routed so they are not sharp and to give them a little profile so it does not look plain Jane so to say. The edges as well are screwed and glued and have walnut plugs hiding the crew holes. I just so happen to have done hardwood floor refinishing in the past so I decided to put commercial polyurethane floor finish on top which should hold up better then any oil or water base product. In the future if it gets scratched up then all I should have to do is scuff the top with a piece of 120 grit sand paper and put a fresh coat back on to make it look brand new again.
The legs I have constructed out of 1x3 square tubing metal with a piece of 1/4 flat steel connected to both legs, that is going to be powder coated with feet under it so you can level the table. The length is 76.5 inches and width is 42.5 inches with it standing 31 inches tall.The legs are going to be secured with 3/8 wood inserts so in the future if the table is going to be moved it should be very easy to disassembled.
This is the final product in the picture below. Good or bad I would like to hear peoples opinions. Would this be something worthy of selling to someone or hide on the back porch where no one can see it.
My next project with the rest of the lumber is to build a set of bunk beds for the grandkids that will separate into 2 twin beds. ( that will be a couple of months before I start those).
Picture 1 - finished table top
Picture 2 - bottom of the table before the top was finished
Picture 3 top still needed a few more coats of finish but an Idea on how the legs will look under it,
OHxF 333 A semi-dwarfing pear rootstock. It is 1/2 to 2/3 standard size. Its resistance to fireblight, collar rot, woolly pear aphids and pear decline make this a very healthy stock. Precocious, well-anchored. Trees are very productive. Some reports that fruit size is reduced