We, uh, thought we had finished last year's potatoes at Christmas. There was apparently a box that was missed and got put under a box of tools which we discovered yesterday, very well sprouted.
Was singing this as I planted them - too much will to live to throw 'em out even if I thought I was done planting potatoes.
Eye of the Tater
Rising up straight to the top
Had the guts, got the glory
Survived a drought, now they're not going to stop
Just some spuds and their will to survive
It's the eye of the tater
It's the thrill of the night
Rising up to the challenge of survival
And the unknown survivors
Sprout long legs in the night
And they're crawling on out... with the eye of the tater
The eye of the tater
If you can find them, Chinese rice paper is very very cheap and makes good non-fried rolls. Here I think the price has gone up to about $2 for a pack of 40. Simply have three pans. Fill one with hot tap water. Dip the rice paper in the hot water for 5-10s (time will increase as water cools, if doing a whole pack you may need to refresh a few times) Set it aside on a plate/pan, add fillings, roll, set aside on a plate, do the next one. Try not to let them touch as they will gum together as they cool. These can easily be done an hour or two ahead if you choose non-browning fillings. I often do a mix of rice and veg (cabbage and carrots are my default) (fish is good too) and serve with peanut and fish and chili dipping sauce. Excluding chopping time, I think I spend less than 20 seconds per roll. The fish sauce should go over well with Danes.
Last year I grew way too many tomato starts from my saved seeds. So I shared them. I explained I didn't know what some of the varieties were, just that they tasted good so I saved them.
I gave some to the neighbours.
I gave some to relatives.
I gave some to some to very distant relatives who were going through some hard times.
I probably gave away 50+ plants. I thought I was just setting them up for a year of tomato growing.
This year, feedback is trickling back. The family that is still in hard times, normally buys tomato starts and grows a garden. They saved seeds from my plants, saying they grew better than anything they bought in the past. This year, they have already planted seeds and will share with their parents/family and maybe return one variety to me! I will offer them some squash seed, I think.
Another relative lives in a low income housing development. She saved seeds from the plants I gave her last year, and bought seeds, has started plants, and is planning on giving dozens away to her neighbours. She wants some of our rhubarb and maybe some other things...
A friend I gave squash to (not at all a gardener) saved the seeds and plans to plant them in some scrub land to see if they grow. He also grew his first tomatos from my starts last year.
Anyway - smiling this morning. It cost me next to nothing to grow and share tomato starts. But the ripples from doing so.... We will see.
I will give more seeds and more starts away again this year. It will be interesting to see where they end up.
That's the climate/growing season I grew up in. June 10 was our average last frost date. Now I am about 2 weeks earlier/later but still use some of the same techniques.
Everything I grow I pick out for 'short growing season'. If I am in the store or in a catalogue, looking at varieties, the first thing I do is see which have the shortest days to maturity.
I plant out about 1/3 of my cold sensitive plants about 2 weeks before official average last frost date (if forecast is clear), then, on last frost day, I check the forecast again. I either plant all my remaining tomato/pepper starts then, or another 1/3, and another 1/3 in a week or two if the weather seems questionable. I start some squash/melons in large pots on the porch about a week or two before official last frost. They can easily be brought inside if necessary and it gives me a tiny headstart. The rest I start from seed a week or so after official last frost, I find them more sensitive than tomato's.
I start enough starts that even losing half isn't a big deal, and I can find homes for any extras easily.
We keep sheets and blankets and table clothes and plastic totes around to cover large swaths of plants to keep them warm, checking the forecast each night before bed. Cloches are too finicky for my taste - I forget to take them off and tend to fry plants.
Some plants can handle frost - onions, brassicas, carrots, potatoes (somewhat) and don't need cover. I tend to group frost sensitive plants together so it is fast to cover them.
Last year and this year I have been experimenting with what things can be planted early. Our last frost here isn't until May 24th or 30th... I planted onions yesterday and carrot seeds and peas. I will plant more in 3-4 weeks, and will probably plant lettuce soon. Seeds are cheap. I also planted daikon radishes in the fall last year and they did wonderfully even long after frost. Cabbages stayed good for weeks after fall frost. My garlic is up already. Last year I learned to presoak corn seed and bean seed to make it germinate faster, even in soil that is not warm enough.
One of the sources for my grumbling is that I know my eastern European /former Soviet block relatives (who grow fantastic peppers) don't have heat mats. In fact, I think they may start their peppers outdoors under plastic. Obviously, here in Canada the growing season is much shorter, but I really grumble to be tied to a heat mat. I haven't visited them since I started really trying to start my own seeds, and my language skills aren't really up to asking what they do.
I am celiac so eat gluten free. I have never gone all the way to grain free, but squash puree makes up more than half the volume of my gluten free muffins and gives great flavour and texture. If I were trying to make grain free bread I would likely rely heavily on squash and eggs. Apple sauce works in things I don't want tasting of squash but squash is better textured.
Have you tried alternative flours? Bean flour, chickpea flour? They don't do well with me, but many people use them heavily.
John Weiland wrote:Catie, It's not clear to me.....are all of your seedling start attempts with these peppers being done in moistened paper towels or in potting mix? As with yourself and several others here, we need to use a heating-mat-for-seedlings to get peppers to germinate and yes, they can take weeks to emerge. We keep them in soil the whole time and keep the 'gro-lights' turned off until they do. They should be moist, but not overwatered since in that warm environment, the mold issue may get worse. And when you say 'warmest window in the house', this is still with the heating mat underneath it for when the sun is not warming the soil, yes? Here's to good luck this year!
I have tried several methods - this year is in a covered dome seed starting tray in the warmest room of the house (top of stairs with a South facing window and a heating vent). No heating mat (dog warming bed) as i can't find it.
Last year we tried :
- random pots in side porch - some success
- damp paper towel on top of fridge - mold, mostly failed to germinate
-damp paper towel on heating mat - mold, mostly failed to germinate
- soil on heating mats - failed to germinate except chilis
- transplanting started seeds from paper towel into soil both on and off heating mat (mostly failed)
In the end, the only things that produced a seedling were method 1 (stripey bell) and chili peppers produced in any of the above methods. The Chilis just seemed very vigorous.
So I have bought a few more packages of fresh seed , and am trying many varieties (6, for now) and am hoping that a few will produce and then I can save seeds from them, selecting for 'actually will start for Catie'. I will start more in 3 weeks or so from some other saved seeds I have, if I don't get enough from this attempt. I grumble about having to coddle something this much!
Last year I basically got chili peppers and a few sweet peppers to start. More than three quarters of what I planted failed to start. Then something ate them out of the ground (vole?) and I ended up having to buy pepper starts and growing none of my own.
This year - as it's now 12 weeks to May 24th (traditional planting weekend) I planted 54 cells of peppers, 2 seeds per cell, 9 cells of each type. They are in the warmest window of the house.
In 4 weeks I will assess how many managed to start and potentially start another round with the seeds that did manage to start.
Anyone want to take bets on how many I start? I need about 12 plants, 6 hot, 6 mild.
Jenna - have you considered moving elsewhere in Canada?
I have lived and worked in many places in Canada and find each one has its own flavour and culture. Some I slip into easily, others I rail against.
I personally have found the culture of rural BC and a few places in Alberta suit me well, most parts of Ontario do not. I do well in Newfoundland. I do well in university towns and government towns but do not do well in major financial centres. I do well in places with a transient, diverse population and a lot of retirees or former hippies :) Places that prioritize quality of life over material wealth. I hated the small town I lived in as a teenager but would consider moving to a different town, with a very different culture only 45 min away!
I like Ian Dunbar's suggestions for this. In one of his videos he suggests creating a digging pit for your dog, and hiding bones and other high value items in it periodically. He suggested deliminating the pit with some sort of marker so the dog knows where to dig for the prospective jackpot.
Some flagging tape and a few stakes might work for your trench.
Here is an article where he suggests burying kongs, but meat or (raw! Never cooked!) bones would be easier.
I bought from this Canadian store recently. Small order, but it came very fast. We called and asked questions for recommendations on what to buy and the person on the phone was very very helpful and knowledgeable despite the tiny order cost.
I anticipate ordering again from them in the future - we ordered replacement bra wires for a few bras with snapped wires. They have an online/printable template you can compare sizes against which made it very easy to figure out what to order. I will probably try one of their kits in the future.
The last 2 weeks, the house has been infested with what we believe are fungas gnats. About the size of fruit flies, attracted to dark surfaces and windows. I suspect they came in on a parsley plant that was taken from the outdoors.
We have covered the soil in the house plants with sand, had our fruit fly mix of water fruit juice vinegar and dish soap on the counters (killed lots), and stopped keeping compost in the house.
This hasn't been enough, they still seem to be reproducing.
I strongly prefer cold to warm, and adapt better going from warm to cold than vice versa. I absolutely adore winter. I find it easier to dress for -10 to -20 C than +5 to -5C.
I spent some time up in the high and low arctic in winter for work, working outdoors for much of the day. It's all about how you dress, and spending enough time outside for it not to be a shock to your system. After a week or two, you end up working outside in a tshirt and gloves in -20C since it feels warm. When I came back south to a southern Ontario winter, it took me longer to adapt to the 'sweltering' 0 to -5C weather!
I visited relatives in Europe one summer, and ended up in +38C. Only a few degrees warmer than Ontario temperatures (but no AC). I got heat stroke. Could not stand the temperatures.
I am somewhat considering moving to Alberta, north of Edmonton. Land prices are cheap, taxes are low, you don't have to have AC in the summer, and you can cross country ski and skate in winter, with consistent snow/ice cover. The soil's better than in northern Ontario, too. The only advantage I see to living in a warmer climate is the lengthened growing season and larger numbers of things you can grow. Only thing holding me back is friends/family in Ontario.
With good insulation, there is absolutely no reason to be cold in a house during the winter or see ice on the walls! Our current house (parts of it are circa mid 1800s) is kept at 21C during the day, 18C at night, with the bedrooms probably 15C with a really terribly setup central heating system someone cobbled together. My house growing up, heated solely with wood, was toasty (25C) in the living room and back kitchen if that fire was on, and cool upstairs (15C, dropping to 0 C overnight at the coldest). There was almost no insulation, and the wind practically blew through it, but I never once saw "ice on the walls". The house before that was kept at a constant temperature with a furnace on each floor, and modern insulation. Very few Canadians keep their houses colder than 18C in the winter, most are about 20-25C.
Anyway - I'd say go for it! Just budget ~$1000 for winter clothing (a good parka, long underwear, good mitts, good boots) and picking up an outdoor winter hobby in your first year to make your first northern winter a good experience.
I started a garden a little bit smaller than that size last year. I did hire a rototiller guy to work up one area that was for finer seeds. It was very successful, despite a drought in the spring/early summer and too much rain in the later summer. I hand dug some areas for finer seeds, and to be honest, it was a lot of work for the results though it was lovely and almost weed free.
If I were you, I'd get the cardboard on as soon as possible. In the snow, even. I put my cardboard on for a new section I am starting for this spring in the fall. I anticipate it will have broken down and softened a lot by spring, and will keep any grass from sprouting. I also wandered around the community picking up bags of leaves. Cardboard under mulch (mostly yard waste I picked up, including grass trimmings) pretty much dissolved to bare earth by fall. Note that most herbicides for residential use are illegal where I live, other places may need to be more careful.
With minimal compost, I would reserve it for rows for starting things like carrots, etc, that are finely seeded. I might also keep an eye out for ads for manure. I bought manure and mixed it into my rototiller area, and top dressed around my corn and squash. Garlic would also like better soil. Some people have manure free if you shovel and load yourself, they were all 1 hr+ drive from me, so not worth the gas for the amount I can fit in my car to me. I topdressed homemade compost or compost tea around other things like tomatoes and peppers. I also bought straw as additional mulch which was great in the drought and pretty much disappeared by fall. The soil in the garden seemed richer, better textured, and more alive by fall than it was in spring.
Well, I shaved her today. I used a #10 blade (1.25 mm / 1/16"), the shortest I can use without risking clipper burn on areas not accustomed to being clipped closely.
I had wanted to wait a few more weeks, but I washed her today and found a lot of mats during blow drying that needed to be removed. Animal welfare is more important than my plans for spinning, so a shavedown today. Brushing time seem to increase exponentially with coat length, and I was up to probably needing about an hour a day to keep her brushed out, or a weekly bath and blow dry (2 hrs), and honestly, I didn't keep up with it over Christmas at all.
I have gained new respect for sheap shearers, who make it look so fast! I did my best to shave the easy areas (back, sides, top of legs), getting about one grocery bag full of hair. There were some second cuts and areas I didn't quite get down to the skin, I was trying for long strokes rather than my normal "make it look good" method.
Here's her, after I had taken all the "easy areas". She looked so patchy! The remaining hair on her legs, belly, etc, I discarded as those areas are much harder to cut in one stroke.
1) Is there a way to seperate out any shorter off cuts?
2) How should I store the hair until i do something with it? It's in plastic right now with an open top, would a cloth bag be better?
And here's my poor sheep poodle afterward, cleaned up, in a sweater, and on a concilatory "I'm sorry I groomed you for 4 hours and still plan on doing more grooming in the next few days" walk. The length of the pompoms on her legs is a little less than what I shaved off her body (i scissored them a bit to even them out, so her body hair was a titch longer).
I would imagine if a cross was showing up in F0, then it would look like corn, so you would have a few beans on a white plant showing other colours, while every bean on a plant being the same colour would be evidence for some sort of segregation from a previous cross. Does that make sense?
My mother wore a housecoat when I was a child. It was thin cotton terry (not towel material, just light loops of cotton) and had a zipper front. It was worn in the morning, over night clothing, or in the evening, when she wanted to lounge around, as our house was too cold in the morning to not have one! She was a farm child, so as a kid, had pinafores, etc. She had school clothes and farm clothes, and changed the moment she got home.
I had a pinafore my mother made me as a child, used for protecting fancy white flower girl dress I wore to a wedding from the snow and the dirt and the sand, then used for church dresses until I outgrew it.
My grandmother has aprons that are basically just cotton vests with snaps up the front. She wears them when at home to protect her good clothing from spills, and, if family are around for a casual meal, at mealtimes, etc.
Here is my great grandmother's apron. My mother recalls her wearing this whenever she was home or in the kitchen. It's made of flour sack material. My childhood pinafore was similar, made of an old bedsheet, but wrapped the back of the full skirt. I keep meaning to use this as a pattern to make my own apron.
I know the farm didn't have central heating for much of my mother's childhood, so not sure what was worn to keep people warm in the house. (Just asked - 'we got dressed', in warm clothes, socks, and shoes, with an apron or pinafore maybe to protect clothes)
I wonder if the dawn of the era of washing machines had as much to do with the demise of housecoats as the beginning of central heating? None of my family members had central heating in the era of this apron, but all had a washing machine.
I am trying to work on a seed order from a company or two or three for this year, and, as always, having issues with 'the garden in my head is bigger than the garden space I have'. I will be the first to admit sometimes my seed choosing and planting is emotional rather than logical; having seeds and growing pretty things is a source of joy and security for me.
Swirling in my head are thoughts about:
-Did it grow well last year? If not, why? Is it worth trying a bunch more varieties to find one that works?
-Will I eat it? Will other people eat it?
- How much space does it need?
- I never buy from this seed company , and they have this neat thing I want but have no space for. Should I buy it anyway, so I don't have to reorder from them in the future?
- is it available in the store?
-Look! Neat thing I have never tried. I wonder if I'd like it/that would be fun!
-Will my life allow for a garden this year?
-I enjoyed that last year... Should I try adding another variety to have more diversity?
-Can I buy something similar off the rack locally, if I don't order it?
If I were to just order what I NEED and grows well, it would be carrots, onion sets, and cucumbers. Not all that exciting.
I second the extra silicone rings. I try to use one for sweet things/neutral things and one for savoury and strongly spiced things. I use the steamer rack that came with it a lot, and sometimes put canning jars I am cooking stuff in on-top of the steamer rack, for yoghurt making or custard making. I haven't done any baking in mine, but have no issues putting pyrex glass in mine.
Mike, how is it for mice? I've always been interested in yurts, but memories of the mice making their annual fall trek into the loghouse I grew up in have always given me reservations. Very impressive that it stays warm to -40C!
I use ArcGIS, but... I'm not the one paying for the licence. Arc can be glitchy, annoying, and makes me swear a lot. If you find yourself needing features that Arc handles better than QGIS, then I'd consider the Arc licence. Note that the ArcGIS licence is pretty limited for the "Basic" level, and even the "Standard" and "Advanced" levels depending on what you are doing, you end up adding on other expensive licences for toolboxes, and it's really just bloody expensive. For both programs, depending on what you end up trying to do, learning basic Python may eventually become helpful. You will probably also need a subscription to some sort of imagery provider, although, again, sometimes there are free airphotos available (which are far better than satellite).
That being said, a professional GIS software makes standardizing workflows so much easier, and makes professional looking maps far simpler. It's very quick to make a very similar map for two different areas, and use the same symbology, formatting, etc. I can knock off 3 versions of the same map area within a few minutes of each other, with different symbology, to see what the person wanting the map finds easier to read, or to highlight different things. Often, exporting the map is slower than making the changes.
GIS stands for Geographic Information System- it's basically a giant database with spatial data attached. The real benefit is when you start using it like a database instead of just a tool to draw pretty pictures on, and, IMO, this is the most fun part of GIS.
Being able to create, quickly, for example, a 50 m buffer around a stream for an environmental setback, show the contours of the land, and draw lines quickly that go perpendicular to contours can be really useful. Maybe there's a tap, and you can create a buffer showing what area is reachable from the hose. Maybe you colour south facing slopes blue, and north facing slopes red. Or maybe show what areas do not have a nitrogen fixing tree within a certain distance. Sky's the limit, really, when it comes to the fun analysis you can do. If you want to see all birch trees that are further than 10 m from the closest apple tree that are ALSO less than 5 m from the nearest maple... you can do that. Don't know why you would, but you COULD.
Much of the US has really good contour data available for GIS. I think the USGS has most of the US data? Here in Canada, being able to pull in information regarding wetland areas, protected areas, lot boundaries,etc, is very useful to know what is and isn't permitted. I would take a look at the places you most often work in and see what GIS data they have available - you may be surprised, and that data has saved me a ton of work in the past. Data is often available from all levels of government - municipal, county, province/state, federal. I know my employer has sold as an expensive add on service, something that took me 30 min to do in ArcGIS with free data, and another hour to make it look pretty.
You can buy for some money (possibly sub $200 and from Garmin?) a handheld GPS that is far more accurate than the iPhone gps and bluetooths the location to the iPhone. That's what I would personally use. For a ton more money ($10 k + yearly license?) you can get a survey grade GPS. You can also rent survey GPS units, but they are likely way beyond your requirements.
Inspired by the success of this endeavor, I am not experimenting with a bag of wood stove pellets + coffee grounds.
I have been wanting to start selling worms, but my vermicompost is imperfect, and some people are weird about wanting no other life forms than the worms in their bin (I think, so long as it composts, and doesn't smell, who cares? People are weird).
Half a 40 lb $7 bag of pellets plus saved coffee grounds filled one bucket. And then I added water ... And it mushroomed.
Expanded with plenty of water, half a bag filled 2 buckets, which is really quite cost effective. I put roughly 40 worms in each bucket. I will continue collecting coffee grounds seperately from the rest of the compost to add to the compost, in an attempt to have a very 'clean' stock I can sell. I really like the texture of the sawdust. Very fluffy, and I expect less likely to go anaerobic than shredded paper.
I will try to remember to report back on how it works. I have long wondered if stove pellets + manure (or plenty of kitchen scraps) + worms might make a relatively cheap fast raised bed fill.
Skandi Rogers wrote:It's odd that rice pudding means Christmas to you, to me growing up in the UK it is invalid and childrens food, it's what you get when you are sick not on special occasions! But saying that I end up eating a lot of it here and it really can vary in quality, the recipe is about what we do but no almond essence instead you want lots of roughly chopped almonds so there is some texture and of course you cannot forget the single whole almond! it is eaten on the 24th after duck with 3 types of potato and picked red cabbage. It also turns up at every Christmas dinner you get forced into attending, I just had one last week where we were 40 people and one almond.. disappointment!
That WOULD be disappointing.
My mom is of mixed up UK descent, so I have tried British style rice pudding. Came into the kitchen one summer weekend age maybe 7 or 8, and was told my mom had made "rice pudding" for breakfast. I was ecstatic! Then was presented with a bowl of soft rice, milk, raisins, and spices. I was unimpressed. And then we proceeded to have that for breakfast for the rest of the week and a few times a year ever since.
I also like the vaguely Eastern European style rice pudding, basically a vanilla custard cooked with rice in it. Also very tasty, also much nicer than the Canadian/British stuff.
Our version used gelatin to set the whipping cream, and had flaked almonds instead of the extract. A whole almond was hidden in one dish in the kitchen, and whoever found the almond in their dish won a prize (usually a box of chocolates). Yum yum yum.
We lost the tradition when we started having Christmas dinner with the Canadian/British side of the family, who wanted pies instead. Pies are tasty, but people make them year round, but nothing says Christmas to me like rice pudding - and it's tastier, too, IMO.
First - I love that I can ask these questions here and get a way better answer than 'no you can't'. You guys are awesome.
Ok - so sounds like I need to wait a while longer. Fair enough. And washing the dog first is good, it keeps the clipper blades sharper longer. No forced air dryer is also very easy. Ok. The impatient person in me is tempted to clip her head and tail NOW, which are much longer, but she looks pretty stupid when I do that so I shall resist.
As for human hair - I had heard of human hair being used as rope or cordage, which, I guess is more or less the same process as spinning, isn't it? Just a rougher product.
Jordan - they have hair in that it grows continuously like human hair. No idea about technical terms. Poodle hair/fur is really interesting, it is like Puli or Komondor hair (corded mop dogs). The combination of the slightly coarser guard hairs and the softer undercoat can mat and form cords making a really water resistant,if sometimes mildew smelling, coat. Poodles can do this too, and it was a really popular hair style before the days of electric clippers, high velocity dryers, and dogs sleeping on the bed lol. Modern poodles aren't really bred to have a coat that cords WELL though, since that's not the style that wins in the modern show ring. Her coat is definitely not impervious to burrs or dirt either! But it's also not smelly like oily coated dogs unless she rolls.
I really like the idea of "try it without messing with guard hairs, and then see if it needs to be changed for later attempts". I can definitely feel then against my cheek, but wouldn't call then scratchy. Perhaps the clipped ends might be. (Hmm- tried a cut lock against my skin and couldn't feel it. I would say "ignore guard hairs" is sounding like a great option).
I took a few photos...
I didn't manage to cut to the skin as I was using scissors and worried about cutting her, so the hair is about 1.5"-1.75" unstretched. I think waiting another few weeks is probably a good idea.
First photo is combings. Definitely softer than polyfil I also had on the table for comparison.
Second photo is locks taken from two different area of coat. The bigger sample is from an area I have brushed recently, the other sample from an area I don't tend to brush
She has two types of hair, guard hair and undercoat. I would guess 75% + of her hair is undercoat. The undercoat is much finer than my own very fine hair, the guard hairs are about the same coarsenes or less coarse, than my fine hair, but much curlier. If I comb her, undercoat comes out, not usually the guard hairs. If I clip her, of course I get both. The guard hairs do seem to grow faster than the undercoat but not significantly so, and since I clip it fairly regularly, they are about the same length +/- 0.5 cm or so after a month or two between clippings. The tail and legs and spine area have more guard hairs (my plan was to just harvest from the easier to get one clip areas of the torso).
Combing doesn't seem a particularly efficient way to get hair. An hour long brushing session might yield less than half a handful of uncompressed fur, as she grows hair the same way a human (and I presume a sheep) does. Google claims poodle fur is finer than Merino, if that helps. My dogs hair doesn't felt/mat particularly quickly. I'll see if I can find a way to get a picture with decent scale to it.
And here is someone hackling dog fur with two Greyhound combs - since I own a poodle, I have MANY of these lying around. Slicker brushes too. She mentions not having success with poodle mix hair, finding it scratchy, and suggests the guard hairs are to blame.
Anita - I once read a story about a woman who installed padlocks on her freezers in an attempt to keep Christmas cookies from her teenage sons and husband. She came home one day to discover the padlocks destroyed and the cookies gone and all 3 denying responsibility. I believed it.
I want to do Christmas candy making this year. With the pandemic I haven't been inclined to do much in-store shopping and I am terrible at online shopping (decision paralysis). My default is to make candy as a gift -fudge, caramel, brittle, candied orange peels... A box with 5+ varieties. The trick is to make it close enough to the date I give it away that it is still good and also not eaten by me before I give it! I have no control. It also helps to keep things in individual boxes until shortly before giving for the sake of the taste. And I also have to give myself enough time that I actually have time to get it all done. Sigh. Buying gifts is easier!
(I have a relative who makes Christmas cookies every year and I feel so guilty. She stays up late at night cooking both gluten free and regular versions of 10+ things. By the time I get them, they are old enough that the flavours in the box have all melded together and I often end up throwing most of them out as they are not particularly good :( or worth the calories to me. I hate throwing out food but also hate stale cookies! Even the non GF ones are apparently not that tasty and are stale by christmas. We all agree we would prefer just getting 1 type and fewer fresher cookies than this giant box, and have her get more sleep!)
Mike Turner wrote:I needed to prune some branches 30 feet from the ground, so I cut a pole from one of my bamboo groves, drilled 2 mounting holes in the bamboo, then removed the saw blade from my 12 foot pole pruner and used 2 bolts and nuts to mount it on the bamboo pole. Works great. Since the saw blade was so far away and a bit difficult to see when manipulating it from the other end of the bamboo pole, I deliberately used overly long bolts when mounting the saw so could easily spot the bolts sticking out to know how the saw was oriented when making the cut.
We have a tool that's very similar. A Christmas light hangar! A long (10+ ft?) bamboo pole with a huge nail on one end. If you already have nails to hang the lights on, you can simply stand on the ground and use the nail to lift and position the Christmas light string while standing safely on the ground. Also works well for putting lights up on medium tall trees.