It is not a rule that mulch locks moisture.This happens only when you already have a strong soil full of life and lots of rain.
Lots of mulch and lots of compost actually can dehydrate the top layer of the soil. When you experience drought ,the wood acts as a spongue
draining the moisture out of the top layer.If you have minimal rain and lots of mulch,the rain will not even reach the soil layer to hydrate it.
It seems that a small layer of mulch and trying to boost soil life would be the best bet.Of course cover crops are so natural looking and you build soil via chopping and dropping
the upper part and leaving the roots to compost.Look at nature ,how much biomass do fall leaves or weeds bring back to the soil.It is a gradual small layer,not creating mulch towers.
That being said if you build soil life with wood chips,then because the soil organisms have a lot of moisture you counteract the wood acting as a spongue and draining the soil.
To me it seems that soil roots activate the soil,so whatever you do try to plant and plant and plant.
I don't understand why people say this weed leaves biomass to the ground.I think the mulch of oxalis is very watery and gets evaporated leaving just thin strands,very very minimal organic matter.In the same time it conquers most of other weed positions that leave something back to the garden and have great roots.
I don't think a blog is what i was describing.Blogs are like one page articles.What i need is the format of a newspaper.In every page each person can share their thoughts about problems of the region and proposal of solutions.Also people can share if they sell their homegrown eggs,if they accept the grass clippings of others for their chicken(for waste management) ,events about cleaning of the beach etc.You get the idea.I just need it to be like newspaper.
I need help with creating an electronic newspaper for sharing the news fo the little place i live.
Everybody in the village would be welcomed to write to me his thoughts ,his articles and content that would like others to see
and then i would be composing it in an electronic newspaper form and sharing to others.Also for specific months(like the summer when it is the peak period) it would be good
to print these pages and hand them to the people of the village.
Can anyone help on where to begin and which programs and formats to use?
I guess what we want is to make them strong with big leaves and good root structure?
Would you use LAB and FPJ applies as a foliar spray?In this case do you alternate weekly between these?
Like week 1 FPJ ,then week 2 LAB or do you mix them and apply weekly?
I am really confused with the knf system.
ΕDIT- LAB stands for Lactic Acid Bacteria
FPJ for Fermented Plant Juice
You can also tie up the male figs in a collar and wrap it around the female tree . You pass the thred/rope inside the fig male fruit making a fig collar. It will help the pollination
In the old days in Greece some people were doing such practices and even some were making these fig collars and were selling it to the farmers market.
I think this is a good idea.You go to the sea.Pile up the washed off phragmites ,add material as needed and having on top a pot
with some litres of sea water to harvest what is left as a salt after the evaporation.Or you can do it at you site while making biochar.
What would you use as a pot to withstand the intense temperatures?
I went to the sea ,gathered 3 litres of seawater and i was amazed at the amount of sea salt that was produced from such a small amount of
water.I used electricity for this process ,so maybe next time i will try to stack some functions.
Same happens here .Loads of wasted fruit on the ground.Now the bigger fruit has been left on the branches.My sister was really amazed by the taste of this fruit and couldn;t believe it was so sweet.I don't know whats going on.
So it seems that what i used is either white cement or gypsum!I hope it is the latter .Would it have any negative effects in any case it is either one of them?
What does it seem to be?On the inside it is all white.
Steve Farmer wrote:Hi, we do this in spain, it's a special kind of rock and maybe yours is the same as you mention it is lightweight.
In spain it's called jable (pronounced hablay) and it's volcanic and extremely porous, in the same way that biochar is. It can hold water and nutrients very well, and also, somehow it manages to stay in place on terraces rather than eroding away during flash floods. It can get a bit hard and compacted if it's been left in the sun unused for a few years, so needs disturbing a bit before planting seeds
Where in the world are you? Greece? I used to have a place south of Kalamata but I never came across this Jable type rock in that region.
Hi.Thank you for the answer ,do you mean pumice stone? I am in North of Pelloponisos ,near Patras.Kalamata is in the southern part.
The rock i am crushing is lightweight ,but still is heavy compared to a pumice stone that is so porous.The thing is that due to continuous weeding,the soil on the main parts has
been degraded with no organic matter and it is exposed in the harsh sun.So i am putting this kind of rock to reflect the sun and i will throw clay seebals of cover crops when the first
autumn rains begin.
Will covering the soil with crushed white rock help alleviate the pressure of the sun in arid regions?
Due to the colour reflecting the rays.Will it keep the soil thus cooler?
I am doing this on a small scale as i have found some white rock,somehow light in weight and crushed it slowly and then pouring
it onto the soil.
Tim Kivi wrote:I've read elsewhere that a toxic chemical is released if roots are left in the ground when a plant or tree is killed, no matter the variety.
Why would they say that? Obviously it challenges the chop and drop method. I always leave roots to die because I have heavy clay soil and need as much added organic matter in there as possible.
Τhen again there are those that say that even if you put fertilizer ,equilevant in weight to the weight of the dying root mass,you won;t have better results and its optimal to leave everything underground and don't interrupt the natural process. In any case everything is being neutralized in the ground,so i wouldn;t worry.You have decaying organic matter in the soil.
Imagine how many millions of cubic yards of wood chips gardeners use every year.
Now imagine that quantity for helping mulching a reforested area in each region where the species
are not that demanding in nutrients .
I can;t help but see ''our gardens'; and our practices as very energy demanding and that we tend to miss the bigger picture.
Imagine everyone in your area wanting to throw seedballs together with you to your nearby arid and deserted areas.
Isn't it very individualistic to do everything for ''our space''.Every resource being spent there.
I may be wrong and correct me if i do so,but isn;t our gardens guzzlers of energy coming from somewhere else?
In an area i dropped multiple times,leaves and chipped branches that i formed with the hand pruners.
I see that in the lower layers the soil is brown instead of black.I don't think it is the mineral base since this brown layer is raised and it indicated it is composted stuff.
Does this indicate lack of microbial life?Prolonged drought that we have?What could be a cause for this?Has anyone experienced the same thing?
There is a sour cherry tree that produces massive amounts of suckers.Can i use these suckers to graft onto the
sweet cherry we all love.How would i proceed in such an endeavour?
Do i graft in spring ,then wait for the graft to be succesfull,then at the dormant season uprooting/disconnecting the tree from the mother tree and put it in a ''permanent location''?
Do i uproot/disconnect the sucker from the mother tree at the dormant season,then potting it up,then at spring grafting with the scion?Similar in how people buy apple rootstocks
and grafting them on their table.
Do i uproot/disconnect the sucker from the mother tree when its dormant,then putting in in its ''permanent location'' then grafting it at spring?
What would be ''best practice''?
Should i use a soil jar test?
If i take a picture can one evaluate what kind of soil might be?
Some say it is sandy and thus can not hold organic matter .On the other hand it isvery compressed and hard
and in some section i can't even poke a hole with the pick.
Phil Stevens wrote:That's almost certainly mechanical damage, most likely a broken branch as Marco suggests. Unless you possess the urination powers of some sort of alien firehose, you didn't do this by peeing on it. Sealing it off and letting it callus naturally will do the trick. I use limewash on trees that don't mind a little alkalinity, like olives, pears and apples, but I wouldn't do that to citrus since they prefer acidic conditions. White glue or a clay and cow manure tree paste will work.
Ι used a kind of clay paste i made ,sealed it with this plastic wrap and thus covered the wound.
Will this work?Do i leave it for as long as it has to be there to heal?
Thank you very much for the contribution.
There is no way i could cause this with undiluted urine right?Because the leaves began to shrink and get dry but then it began to grow with new vigorous green growth.
Can undiluted urine cause such damage to the trunk of a small tree like this?
This is the trunk of the rootstock of a kumquat tree i bought from the nursery.What has happened there and there is this scar?
I planted the tree in the ground last april.is it possible for this damage to have occured during this year and me not have noticed,or did i buy it like that from the nursery ?
Can it heal?
Panagiotis Panagiotou wrote:These are the trees.The last is also a carob that i bought from the nursery.All these were bought from same nursery.
What could be the reason for this?Could i burn them with urine?
i would water those plants heavily to dilute the urine in the soil. i use urine diluted 1 qt. to 5gal. of water. i only put it on the roots and not the leaves.
I didn't put it on the leaves! I also put gray water from the kitchen sink and the soap had sulfates.I don;'t know if the combination was the reason ,or the urine alone or the gray water.
The marjoram grew like crazy though!
A Crossman wrote:I have grown a mulberry from seed successfully bit then moved from Ontario to Saskatchewan so was not able to move with it. I have 6 Hardy Chinese peach trees that I successfully grew from seed. The key to peaches is to crack the pit a little. I stratified them in the fridge for a while and then they sprouted. Out of 7, they all sprouted, one had some mold on it and didn't survive. I have grown a lot of other trees from seed as well. Don't let them dry out.
Did the peach seeds sprout inside the refrigerator?
I applied adequate amounts of urine to some plants.Two of them, one small feoja and an also small strawberry tree have these drying curling leaves.I think the strawberry tree is going ot die
and i don't see the feijoa to sprout new leaves.There are still some healthy leaves but the majority is curling and becomes hard.
If this is the case,what can i do to help them?They are mulched.
It may also not be the case.
Here is a little strawberry tree(arbutus inedo) i bought from a nursery.
Its leaves are drying for a period of months..Bottom leaves have dried.
When i planted ,i put worm castings to the hole,somehow mixing it and the surrounding soil is hard and compacted.Not sure if it did damage it.
Is anything i can do about it?
Olive trees produce fruit in the branches of the last season's growth.Keep this in mind when pruning.So the new branches that you see developing now ,are those that are going to produce fruit next season.
Some varieties of olive trees may need another pollinator variety.You say that you have 3 trees of the same variety.Which variety are you talking about?
I've seen big olives trees very close to the canopy of very big pines,and even then they will shoot some branches towards the sun and produce many many olives.I don;t know if the shade thing applies for southern mediterranean climates like where i live,because there is so much sun.Northern cultures are not the standard of all.
I'm wondering about the bacterial and fungal counts though. For example:
Bryant RedHawk wrote:Squash, beans, peppers all want concentrations of 500 micrograms of bacteria and 250 micrograms of fungi.
Is it the the exact concentration that's important, or is it the ratio of bacteria-to-fungi that's (more) important?
From a practical point of view, if I wanted to grow, say, 50 different types of plant, with many close to each other and many intermixed, there's no way I can see 'a garden' actually working with 'exact' concentrations.
On the other hand, if the various plants (or families of plants) can be placed simply on a bacteria-fungus spectrum, then it would be much easier to nominate certain parts of the garden/property as "highly fungal" or "balanced" or "highly bacterial" then treat/maintain the soil in those areas accordingly and control the transitions from one soil biology to another.
I'm not sure if it already exists, but a reference that simply puts plants into five groups based on preferred soil biology ("Highly Bacterial", "Bacterial", "Balanced", "Fungal", "Highly Fungal") would seem to be an extremely useful and practical tool.
Would you want to divide your plot into these parts though?Would it be actually divide and conquer using our human brain?
Yes you can use them to feed the earth and create healthy soil.Especially since they are sitting for one year ,there are no concerns with so called allelopathic properties of some species.
Just don't till them in .
Vern Life wrote:I've been adding some olive trees to our orchard for the same reason. The Arbequina variety appears to be evergreen and it survived this winter with two separate weeks of snow in 7b PNW.
Judith Browning wrote:I wonder if some of the time when folks here talk about using wood chips that they are really speaking about bark chips?
Here, anyway, the only place we can get wood chips, other than having our own chipper, is by catching the power company chipper and getting them to drop off a load. Otherwise we can get bark chips at the many sawmills around here by the truck load (and sawdust also).
I would love to source more wood chips...they are just not so readily available in this area as bark...
It is being answered in this video by Paul. You need the alive green material (chipped branches,twigs,leaves,needles etc.) that feed the soil in a quick manner and the more woody material
stays on top to cover the soil and retain moisture etc. So the answer would be wood chips t.You can also check the second video.