As i regard this posting to be the most informative yet read ,on these trees ,i would like to ask a question , recently on a random drive visit to a small town about 40 mins away , i noticed what i had always thought to be a monkey puzzle, but this tree at about 30 -to maybe more feet high ,only has the top branches ,spreading out like an umbrella.The usual lower branches as i have seen on similar sized trees --- have not been cut or trimmed away --but just seem to have dropped off---more like the parana pine shape ----which is odd ,as the parana pine has only very recently been available here in ireland ,whilest the monkey puzzle is widely planted and fairly common now as it has been available for 50 years or so---could some monkey puzzles show this type growth .
if you type in BIOMEILER , and jean pain , it will show a whole lot more on german ,dannish , dutch sites that have built really big systems and some have good details and plans drawn up--just hit goggles translate and bobs your aunty jenny in some of the direct swop over to englash--but you wiil get most of it,cheers
my 5 cents worth --(sorry we dont have 1 or 2 cents here anymore) Jean s priority in making the large composting piles was not to create hot water or methane to power his little car or cook with ,but to rejuvenate the forest floor and build up the soil , plus clear the firebreaks of the estate he was managing---he also seems to have been working with a very small number of helpers --if any ?---he needed a quicker way and faster method to compost down the material that had before been considered waste and a fire hazard , on a very large scale but as quickly as possible and with out burning it. Plus he had to take into consideration the lack of water and had to be economical with it, his own design of shredder is still made . The hot water and methane was an added bonus and his hard earned hands on approach gave the best working model of this system , i think in trying to down scale this down is where the whole idea falls flat , his brother has made a few youtube clips which are very interesting and fill in a few blanks of the mans life and a glimpse at his character---and madness---using a small homemade compressor to pressure fill tanks of methane from old truck tube holding reservoirs--then strapping this onto the 2cv vans roof and driving around the estate----our world is just a little bit less interesting ---he would have made the health and safety mob reach for the drink---with him now gone.
thanks, i have thought about floor timbers and sources of it for awhile now and its looking like 9x2 inch at 18 feet are the easiest to source and to buy as in bulk they come down in price , they are pre finished and only require minimal sanding --sounds over the top for flooring maybe , but every other option is plywoods and engineered wood as they call it with a very thin "looks like wood" over it---too much glue and chems for me---true old style solid wood plank flooring is way beyond the budget and skill level .started bring out the logs from the forest as well for the beams.
well i am planning far ahead---by way of novelty planting more than a deliberate plan of action as you have going--got 6 parana pine seedlings ranging about a foot to 2 feet high plant over here in ireland and will add about 2 or 3 to that number each year till i have maybe 20 to 30 of them---my decendants or someone else wise enough to recognise what they have growing in the back field is edible ---and instead of chainsawing it down for firewood may get to snack on them.Your fog harvesting idea , read up on an odd quirky post or a pdf on the web ---under the heading of ---goodbye capetown .
thanks, cottage is 21 feet wide outside to outside walls , walls are 30 inches thick--each side---and its 63 feet long---with a simple A framed rafter roof --its been around a long time so has had several hundreds of years of running repairs , some fairly horrific , but its still here and standing, i have no intention of demolishing any walls or hacking them up any further than they have been already, but the house is too small for us , the existing roof timbers are very old and a mix of hand cut and old rough sawn timber planks ---all small sizes--no big majestic single log stuff here--and its all full of wood borer. So to solve several issues , going to strip off the entire roof and make up new rafters in a gambrel style --to create an entire full length and width(almost) top floor space with lots of headroom, which can then be divided up into some bedrooms and a bathroom/ toilet. So the plan is to span the width with round pole timbers ---spaced at 48 inches centers and lay plank on top of it as a new floor area---it wont be supporting any roof loads . Would have to bring each pole up to level and thus have a single back cut along their lengths to achieve this-- have had some experience with gum tree poles and they dont take kindly to this idea ---they split and twist quite a bit ---so hence my question --as i have very limited hands on/working knowledge of sitka spruce in its round pole---would they tend to do the same or stay stable .thanks
i was reading about some compressed hemp fibre earth blocks ,where a test was being done based on 5 formulas /mixes to determine which or how many solutions could work , one was woodash paste ,clay and chopped whole hemp stalk
Jean Pain was using the thinnings from his forestry management system of the trees , the green twigs ,leaves and smaller diameter branches---brown and green stuff -- plus brush cleared from firebreaks--not really chipped up but more of a tearing shredding process in the length --- in his own specifically designed /built machine---to maximise surface area for bacterial action to kick start quicker---and in huge piles /mounds of material , he was in the 50 to 60 ton of stuff at a time.
what you have given has been helpfull and at least gave some ideas ,i would have gotten to an answer in the the end --just a bit later maybe --but what you gave -- got my thought process on the right direction, i have goggled up some stuff on beam stress calculations again ,and the pictures are great help too, i have to work with what i have to hand and with what i can cobble together machine wise , i will need to build a simple long enough steel ladder frame on legs and slide a chainsaw along it to cut a flat face off each log---looking at the workshop section on the forum gets me dreaming away---i have an old stick welder , a small grinder and large grinder, hand drill and hammers ,and selection of hand made chisels plus spanners,and a small home built forge and anvil, thats it really but i have managed to build my man-shed , my teleporter/telehandler s shed , a bucket ,boom and a mixer for that as well , 2 car trailers, car ramps , nissan hut shed roof trusses, several woodstoves ,my own kitchen range cooker, all the beds and some furniture plus several projects /repairs for friends ---but hand hewing beams ---hats off to you for that, cheers ,tony
thanks, i was kind of dithering around on this --and if i dont move on this project and the round pole timber thats available --its going to stall and putter out ---the trees are down and destined for cutting up and chopping for heating in woodstoves---they are fairly substantial in girth and will be spaced to 48 inch centers--only supporting the timber plank flooring and not the roofing rafters in any way---if i can source from the same location some decent length and strength for a center beam-- with a few columns --i would go for that-- the bigger and more of ---as a belt and braces approach.
hello, got to restart on my old cottage renovation, some stonework has been done and its time to start collecting material for the roof , existing beams are really bad so whole roof to come off and i have decided to make the attic space as extra living area, this means a timber plank floor to be laid on top of some round pole logs, heres my question, i have mostly or maybe only sitka spruce logs to work with ,and was thinking of cutting a single flat surface to each log---spanning a 20 foot wide space--wall to wall--i can get to choose fairly substantial logs to work with ------but i have no experience of working with round pole sitka and i am beginning to wonder if just taking a single flat cut will lead to warping or twisting---cant find any thing on the web about this , hopefully someone has had some experience of working with sitka ---thanks
i bought chestnut seed from a turkish vendor some years ago , and all of them came up , they have grown very well and coped with minus 8 we had few years ago ,and all our wet and frosty days as well---there could be some very cold tolerant varieties from turkey --given that they have mountains and snow in some areas
hello again , might seem an odd question ----another one -----is it possible to view or ask your local council or development board what the area of castelo blanco has in the way of a 5 year development action plan --i ask as the situation over here in ireland, since we have been bailed out by the german banks has led to a lot of anti rural policies and planning being adopted by councils on top of some very unpopular eu policies in regards to privatising utilities --water ---electric ---forestry and so on , this all has an add on effect onto planning laws and planning zones. So one might buy in a seemingly pristine part of the country and some years later look out over an industry of wind turbines ---or as you have experienced ---the total disregard to natural forestry --resulting in 2017 fires and loss of life and enviromental damage ---most of which i am ashamed to say --was hardly reported on here at the time and only very lightly too---without going into the politics of all this ---which i feel in general is conducted above our heads to suit big money concerns .
hello, David , were you able to find quercus rotundifolia ? i bought seeds recently from a source in france , also seen seedlings and plugs of them available from french based nursery ---(but he doesnt ship to ireland) --could be quick way for you to get a jump start on them, theres an american site selling seed/acorn sometimes with bur oak holm oak hybrids and some others that they select for sweetish or low tannins ---but seem to be sold out very quickly----i am also thinking of grafting sweet onto common oak ,but have no idea if the compatibility between evergreen and non will work,cheers
as i am only in research stage---or dreaming wishfull thinking stage ---as my wife says---realist---- i am at least 2 years from being able to get up and go ---my first born has to complete his schooling here---the other younger 3 siblings are more bomb proof and could cope from tomorrow if i asked them to get up and leave-----so to get me further into a central portugal frame of mind i ordered some quercus rotundifolia acorns to plant up over here---to get in some practice for the future spot i find myself in. I had been about to order some holm oak bareroot as all the information i had read up till now state that the acorns are edible , well theres edible because you have nothing else and theres edible because it tastes fairly good and you would want to eat another one---a bit more reading up and there is an edible variety straight from the tree .Well its usually edible with lots of variation on the taste depending on source and hybrids of them, seems its the rotundifolia thats the one most likely to be sweetish in taste. Got 20 seeds off the bay and 2 extra s , good thing this was , as one had a small hole bored into it so i peeled off the outer shell--easy enough to do---washed off the grubs dust and debris and did a taste trial---yes it was sweetish --not overly sweet but mild and pleasant. So hopefully they will grow out into a similar tasting acorn bearing tree--yes i know it will be a long way off and maybe not me tasting them
hello, thanks for a reply,sorry my bad use of slang english ---its the metal re-cyle center maybe , what i am used to is a big dirty yard or field full of old broken scrap metal ,cars , vans and trucks and other kinds of odds and ends ---parts and stuff you can scavange or buy for cheap ---cheers ,tony
hello, i have been lurking around estate agents and property sites of portugal ,and the central area has been where i keep going back to ---its starting to grow on my mind ---i have more of in interest in the old stone houses needing lots of hardwork---i have kind of served my apprenticeship on my old home and my various make do and make up projects---which brings me onto my perhaps strange question---are there many scrapyards in and around in the castelo branco /fundao area--if anyone in that localty has this knowledge to hand ---thanks---its just that i tend to make most of the stuff i cant afford to buy and these are my supermarket chainstore outlet for me, so kind of vital for my further dreams/plans.
A recent study done in ireland has reported that our honey made during the heather bloom has same properties as manuka---doing some extra reading i found a similar health property --as claimed for manuka--- was reported for honeys made from the chilean hazelnut and the quilla blossums ,and in arabia for acacia honey ---could we be victims of a great advertising campaign from an industry ?
thanks , iam going to try the magnets as well ----but diy style ---have read about their use and many say it wont work and a few say from their experience it has never worked ---but i recon its worth trying---i have about 10 magnets from old starter motor s --the linear reduction gear types---they are curved and will fit around a 3/4 copper pipe quite nicely --plus another 8 circular magnets from a microwaves --they have a center hole about 3/4 inch --so i will combine them and install it as a removable unit --- seems to me there is also a lot of mis understanding about them and other systems to prevent limescale---many are arguing about it not reducing water softness---thats not what these do .
thanks, for some input , and some pointers , the tub wont be an on demand hot water and there wont be any sealed off un-vented boiler---the idea was at first to use rainwater only ---but the extra time needed to sort it out into a running system right now would put my main project way behind all the previous missed deadlines---the heat exchange idea with rainwater could be put in place---its just that to use rainwater at the moment would require collecting all the bits together and still building sand filter and gravity feed tower , and so on .......
thanks , i would welcome ideas on tweaks for it , but i wont be adding in frames , would have liked to build in an observation window---but at the time i had nothing suitable to hand and my young son helping me was eager to get this finished and in the tree ---we were on holidays and i had a few more projects to get done ---hes the driving force behind this one as identifying the bees and similar has become a hobby for him---i have thought about buying one of those cheapish cavity/plumbing type cable cameras and using it for inspections---as i dont think a permanent installed mini lens camera would last inside a hive---they would proberly propolis or wax it over
I am starting on my hot tub project and installing my woodburning stove in a cabin ,a hot water system and storage of it is being puzzled out and the theme here is based on the KISS principle, but heres my next problem that will happen , as i am on borehole water with a high calcium content ---any water heating devise quickly builds up limescale---how or what has anyone else done to prevent this on their system ---my own current thinking is to make the heating tubes of the hottub stove somehow partially pull apart--so i can rod them out. I have just installed an electric heated pumped shower and an in line combimate system in a modern house --this uses phosphate ball /pellets over which the in coming cold water flows---this prevents the limescale coating the pipes and heater cores ---does not remove the lime ---it just gets passed through the system----maybe this could work on the woodstove back boiler ?
hello, yes the hive could only get heavier if occupied---hopefully-----but so are those big natural loghive i think ----the top and the base of mine are removable ---they are not too heavy but i would nt fancy doing it unless more experienced and suited up and until i have the rest of the plan of the project completed---i am collecting lumber and bits to make a stairway and platform around the hive then some metal brackets to attach or lifting eyes onto the lid---there are enough close by branches /trunks for another piece of this over complex backyard engineering project ---a swing out gantry with pulley block or small block and tackle to hang off above the hive. At the moment i have used my teleporter/telehandler with 18foot extention jib to do the lift. But its not my first intention to harvest honey ---rather to harvest swarms and build up another 2 hives or so --also up in the trees but further along the line. Have looked at chainsawing out logs but i am a bit of a "big girls blouse" with trying that out --i dont fear cutting trees down with them but that process of plunge cutting nose first gives me the wobble. Have seen a better way --for me that is ---on an american site where guy cuts and carves out stumps into office desks and makes furniture --he has a jig holding the chainsaw on a centered pole screwed into the log end and can slide into the log and turn a series of plunge cuts , and then by rotation into a clean cut circle plug to be removed ---only for a relatively straight trunk and big enough diameter.Did place some bees wax on the lid plus some lemon balm oil on a cotton ball inside the hive ---but no result ---think i was just too late ---first week of june when it was up in place. I think if you want a hive build one up high enough--- paint it up all nice arty style like some of those eastern european ones and then it wont be a scarey object and its out of the way of anyone touching or disturbing it ---bees dont bother people if left to their work .
hello, just built a log style hive and having very little hands on knowledge of bee keeping ,i was attracted to at first just keeping or rather just having bees take up residence so i could observe and learn , then build another hive for later swarming and some modest honey gathering, i have just in the past few days made contact with a keeper and trained herbalist , for some tips and guidance, back to this thread , i dont read anywhere that the intention was to chop down a natural hollow log tree but rather to re create one himself it seems. My little section of the planet doesnt have any large diameter trees being harvested and mostly once i have spotted a blow down or felled tree that could be big enough--i get there to late to save and buy a long enough section ---its all chainsawed up into firewood---so i set about making my own log styled hive , heres a bad picture of it starting out --i cant find the camera that has the midway process and the completed hive up in a tree---yet. I used the rejected pallet wood strips from a sawmill --sold off very cheap --maybe free in your parts---these are untreated and roughsawn , the former around which the log is created is a salvaged piece of plastic pipe---13 inches or so outside diameter and 5 feet long---the strips where all cut to match length at 48 inches there abouts.Held in place by a few bungee cords until the plywood capped ends where nailed up --then the tube former slid out---then built another layer of planks about 4 or 5 inches spaced out from the first layer and filled it with hempcrete insulation---the top and bottom are plugged with insulted removable lids ---yes it damn heavy --but not meant to be disturbed but could be inspected if necessary ---my calculation of internal size is 100 liter or so---no bees yet ---i just missed the swarm season and failed to attract any thing yet---besides i have not seen a honey bee around my place for years ---they are a few miles away though--so i might have to buy in a nuc next season.
hello, to what age would you want to raise them on skimmed milk--as this was the old process and combined with whey , to raise veal calves , a touchy subject these times, although rose veal process is now accepted --but creates a lot of work for yourself on the animals husbandry side of it , calves raised during weaning and just past it ,even on natural milk but from the bucket and feeder , scour out very easy and need a lot of carefull handling and attention paid to them plus some additives /treatments to prevent or recover from it ,,before they get onto grass .
hello, i am living rural but not as far out as you seem to want but what i went through might be of help , my small cottage and land needed lots of work --the sheds had fallen and the haybarn was in such a bad way as to be unusable---battled and struggled for a few years --working outdoors sounds manly/womanly/rugged and hi ho its off to work i go--i dont mind the ditch clearing and chopping and digging outdoors when the weather allows or the odd emergency outdoor repair work in even the bad stuff---theres a sense of satisfaction in completion and achieving a goal or project ---although i doubt our coldest winter or rains could match yours maybe. Came a point in these early years were the novelty of outdoor construction had long since worn away and the external and internals of the house were just not progressing it seemed---it was move out sell up or major re think. If you want to build and live in a small house--first build the BIGGEST shed you dont think you can afford , i rebuilt and iron sheeted my old hay barn and suddenly i had not only learnt about roofing and sheeting working with materials that i was not familar with at first but had now created a workspace out of the rain to make rafters and beams for the house and a place to store building material . The luxury of being able to layout stuff-- work away at my own pace and leave it set up with tools at the ready for next time meant slowly but surely i got things done and it turned my attitude right around --it was back to enjoying the life at my pace and getting things done. , if you are not bound to a lot of planning regulations and can be independent of as few services as possible try as much to do so. I could go on here with more of what i would do and fill a page , my other advice is learn to weld and lots of other hands skills trades --getting anything done by other people when you are far out costs a lot of money ,time , and lots of mis-understandings usually happen in between, its not easy --thankfully --otherwise everyone would do it and we would have no where to live --except to move back to the city.
left out this --the orange stain on all the white basins ,bath and loo --a better way than using bleach or those abrasive thick white cleaning sauces and elbow grease --back to the farmstore or co-op and pick up some dairy pipeline and equipment descaler--they use it to remove milkstone build up--its high strength acid --usually citric or citric and a blend of --put on your marigolds and grab a sponge pour some acid on to and wipe the stains --they will fade away , the loo might need a bit of a more liberal soaking and be put a side --out of action over night, if you are worried about the high strength acid work with a bucket of bicarbonate and water next to you ---then this can be used to neutralise the loo when soaking is done, another sidenote ---if you have an old surface mounted bore pump--and its still going --dont throw it out ----feed it from a large steelcage cube tank --the 1000 liter type and plumb a hose to it ---you now have your own fire pump or pressure /volume washer or garden spray irrigation pump
i will have to add that this might not be a perfect solution or a fix to the water problems, water trapped above bedrock will always have higher contamination---a new bore will get past this and should extend down past possible other layers of sand shale and clay before the actual bedrock --good well drillers would know this---then the bore is sealed down past the bedrock level with a length or two of steel casing pipe about 8 inches diameter and all the way back up to above ground level --about 3 or 4 feet . This provides a physical above ground barrier and contamination protection from ground water /dirt and animals going down the bore and a center anchor point for a concrete pad to be poured around it , then build a block house with roof to shelter and house the electrics and pressure tank and any filters you may wish to add on , the bore is drilled way down into bedrock until a good supply volume of water is reached , this depends on the rock being shales , sandstone or bassalts ect, too shallow and you risk pumping it dry. Then the bore should be lined from the very bottom all the way back up to surface --plus extra 3 or 4 feet --with a high grade plastic pipe about 5 or 6 inch diameter---ours are a blue colour---the very bottom length will have several holes drilled into it for the recovery rate of water into the bore. The only pump to use is a submersible stainless steel one , this should be hung down the bore about one pipe length above the very bottom to prevent the built up sediments being stirred up every time the pump switches on , this pump is wired to the top board by an unbroken --no joints or splices --length of cable , the water line is black polypipe inch and 1/4 and the whole lot is hung down the bore on a length of blue poly rope secured to the pump body.So any thing goes wrong or needs looking at ---it can all be pulled up out the bore . All bore water will have high mineral content and maybe high in iron so the water smell could still be a returning problem--this happens because when drilling a bore they introduce bacterial contamination from the top layers of ground , so the whole bore and recovery water area has to be shock chlorinated before put into use-- then topside fit a sealing off cap plug to reduce this happening. If you do frequent very high level chlorine treatments be aware that this eats away at stainless steel --also dont use a steel pressure tank--bore water is corrosive and eats them at about one every 5 years where i live --till i switched to the fibreglass one. The iron and manganese in some bores wont kill you--they are in solution and could be filtered out mostly-- but expensive to achieve with cartridge type filters, or to lower levels a bit cheaper maybe depending on you own diy and tech levels with a home made charcoal and sand filter set up, but this would mean using a water tower and plastic barrels placed above 36 feet in the air or ground elevation above the house.
hello, we live off borehole water about 20 years now ,house was on an existing system when we bought and fraught with problems from our first week in ,spent --wasted really --lots of time effort and some money on trying to get it sorted--had a few professional experts show up and had many more of the armchair variety as well , we had rusty brown water trickling out the taps and because of its" brimstone smell "we told everyone it was being piped direct from hells pit. The high iron and manganese level caused bacterial mats to grow inside the pipework and pressure tank plus all the holding tanks , advise was to rod the pipes with a narrow bore air line to pressure shock and oxygenate the blockages away, then replace all taps ,tanks and bathroom /kitchen fittings--which all had red staining---pricey and no guarantee of it working . The most expensive advise was to get our local council to bring in a mains fed waterline to our front gate for a quote of 20000.00 pounds---yes 20 000.00, and it would be our further costs to plumb from gate to house, i declined all further "helpfull " advise and started my own quest to study up on the problem. First bore was too shallow at 90 feet down as the local bedrock was at about 110 feet --info supplied from govtment /council surveys and some water drilling companies---which meant all our water was being pooled above this and full of mineral leaching out and plus bacterial contamination from decades of farming , the reason mainly for such a shallow bore was the pump choise , an above the ground suck and push type at its limits of working and prone to burning out. Replaced with a submersible stainless steel one , gave reliable high pressure and volume , the trickle of water was only slightly better for us though as the iron bacteria were clogging up all pipes, so i poured 3 gallons of chlorine down the bore ---dont use grocery store stuff its to weak or scented or thick and gloopy with lots of added salt--buy the stuff dairy farmers use to clean out with--- from co-op or farm store ---its about 4 times the strength and purer quality. Now you need to either go on holiday for a week or get in a week or 2 supply of drinking and washing water, as this high strength shock treatment must be left for about a week to kill off all nasties--bacteria only take a minute or so but the virus and worm types need a good long soak, the high strength bleach eroded away the mats of growth in the pipes and restored water flow --lots of orange water for a few days--this also took some of the staining off the white fittings-- and about a week before the bleach smell faded to a mere wiff. This shock treatment should not be done repeatedly as its a septic tank killer unless you divert all flow to just outside garden taps until water flows clear--but then you wont get the other taps to clear for a lot longer-- once done the process can be scaled down to a half or quarter gallon only when the sulfar smell returns and run the water till it doesnt smell of bleach
living in a south west county of ireland --with a local council that does not approve of any treatment systems other than the septic tank for rural homes,they have their own attitude to ideas and practise as the EPA code does not have to be followed by any council its only a guideline that each council can cherrypick out portions to suit their own attitudes. You also maynot be allowed to choose just any local engineer how ever qualified he may be to do your site assessment,our council has a list of appointed names to use and only their results are accepted.
Try PEPPERMINT FARM down in cork , has a vast range of plants mostly--all organic accredited--but does offer spare seeds every now and then , lots of very interesting herbs---a warning --you will blow your budget if you visit or meet them at the various markets