Mark Reed wrote:I have always had a habit, learned it from my dad of plucking the seed stem out of grasses, pretty much any tall grass. Just grab it and hank straight up. The bottom end that had been inside away form the sun in most cases is sweet and juicy. Some more than others of course and only at the right stage of development. The bottom two or three inches of a corn tassel is sometimes better that the corn.
The plant I suspect and hope could be Maygrass has an extra delicious smell and taste.
The plant you describe sounds like Timothy grass (Phleum pratense). Green Deane has an article on his experiences with this plant in a section of his page devoted to grass species with edible vegetative parts. http://www.eattheweeds.com/can-we-eat-grass/
From my personal experience handling timothy grass and from images available online of this plant, it appears that Timothy grass has thinner and longer flowering ears than either canary grass or maygrass. It also seems to have smaller and more numerous seed glumes than canary grass or maygrass.
I've definitely found timothy grass on Huffman Prairie last year and I even made a video recording. I have just now decided to post the video to Bitchute so I can share the video here. I just posted the video now so it may take a few hours for it to finish processing. https://www.bitchute.com/video/jVxGV4sQ8cW4/
I just did some reading on bonap.org and wildflowersearch.org and it appears that the Kansas City area might be one of the best places in the United States to find all of the lost annual seed crops of the Eastern Agricultural Complex together in one place. These include little barley (Hordeum pusillum), erect knotweed (Polygonum erectum), sumpweed (Iva annua), maygrass (Phalaris caroliniana), and pitseed goosefoot (Chenopodium berlandieri). Additionally, wild, annual sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) and woolly beans (Strophostyles helvola) should be present in the general area of Kansas City. Based on what information is available on wildflower search, these annual plants should be common growing as weeds in disturbed areas including open storm ditches, vacant lots, roadsides, railroads, and disturbed river plains. I shared this post on the thread for the Kansas City area to see if anyone from that area has ever seen these plants growing together.
I just did some reading on bonap.org and wildflowersearch.org and it appears that the Kansas City area might be one of the best places in the United States to find all of the lost annual seed crops of the Eastern Agricultural Complex together in one place. These include little barley (Hordeum pusillum), erect knotweed (Polygonum erectum), sumpweed (Iva annua), maygrass (Phalaris caroliniana), and pitseed goosefoot (Chenopodium berlandieri). Additionally, wild, annual sunflowers (Helianthus annuus) and woolly beans (Strophostyles helvola) should be present in the general area of Kansas City. Based on what information is available on wildflower search, these annual plants should be common growing as weeds in disturbed areas including open storm ditches, vacant lots, roadsides, railroads, and disturbed river plains. For more information, see my thread on the Eastern Agricultural Complex crops. https://permies.com/t/120420/Eastern-Agricultural-Complex-EAC#970932
The entry for the related canary grass (Phalaris canariensis) on PFAF says that the leaves are supposed to be edible. Unfortunately, the article gives no method of preparing the leaves. I'm assuming the leaves would either be dried and used as a filler in flour or juiced and strained like wheatgrass. Grass leaves are often high in silica so they are not pleasant to eat as a raw, green vegetable. Here is the article for the plant: https://pfaf.org/user/Plant.aspx?LatinName=Phalaris+canariensis
For those unfamiliar with wheatgrass, here is a video on how to make this food. Wheatgrass is more popular on the west coast of the United States than other parts of the US.
As for sources for learning about the Eastern Agricultural Complex, I found another source for information earlier this weekend. The following blogger grew out crops in the Eastern Agrictultural Complex at least during the 2018 and 2019 growing seasons in Missouri. According to her credentials on her blog, she is an anthropologist and a professor at the University of St. Louis. She has also included a few journal articles she has authored on her blog. Many of these articles are related to the cultivation of crops in the Eastern Agricultural Complex in the prehistory of North America.
Unfortunately, I've not been able to continue growing out my wild foxtail grass (Setaria faberi) I originally collected due to having to move my garden and limited growing space. Nevertheless, I have continued my interest in domesticating wild grains. I have been especially interested in redomesticating maygrass (Phalaris caroliniana) and little barley (Hordeum pusillum).
Some information that might help in domesticating new crops from wild grains would be the processes that have been used to domesticate intermediate wheatgrass (Thinopyrum imtermedium) over the past forty years. So far, I have found the following two journal articles, but if anyone finds other sources that might help in domesticating wild grains, please feel free to share it here.
I was hoping someone in this thread would know how to hull cereal grains using a makeshift impact huller from rubber material glued onto the disks of a rotary hand mill. I've found a couple videos demonstrating this process (here's one below), but I have yet to try this technique myself. I'm hoping it works for little barley (Hordeum pusillum) and maygrass (Phalaris caroliniana) since I want to try redomesticating these lost crops from the Eastern Agricultural Complex that were abandoned after the arrival of maize from mesoamerica.
This year I grew one lamb's quarters plant (Chenopodium album) to maturity and I got 3.8 ounces of seed from a single plant. I calculate that yields should approach half that of corn if planted at the same density as quinoa. I am also currently in the process of drying some huauzontle seeds (Chenopodium berlandieri) I harvested this fall, so I'll have an update on how much seed I got from it by next week. Here is the video where I harvest my lamb's quarter seeds:
If you plan on leaching more than one pound of acorns at once, don't use a cheap nutcracker. I tried this and I got several blisters on my hand I used to operate the cracker. It took me seven hours to finish cracking an eight pound bag of acorns.
I have some more insect photographs from earlier this year. Since milkweed tends to attract oleander aphids (Aphis nerii), it also attracts ladybugs. Unfortunately, oleander aphids are not native to North America and the ladybugs I do find tend to be Japanese ladybugs. This is obvious by the prominent black "M" on the thorax.
Frank Giglio wrote:Here's the first round of acorns from he northern red oak. Drying in the sun, I'm hoping to at least double what you see here with hopes to get me well into summer/fall of 2018. I find the process of cracking and leaching no more difficult then maintaining a sourdough starter and incorporate this once important food into my diet as much as I can.
How do you keep squirrels from stealing your acorns when drying them like this? I would rather dry the acorns in a food dehydrator to keep them safe from animals.
Ray Moses wrote:The easiest way to leach is to grind acorns into a meal with a blender and water and then pour into a colander lined with a cotton cloth, place in sink and run water through it while stirring occasionally , takes about ten minutes for white oak types, double for red oak. I drilled extra large holes in a colander just for this purpose so water moves through fast and shortens the leach time. I use a t shirt for the cloth.
I'd love to see a demonstration on this method of leaching. I've seen a video demonstrating this method for leaching buckeyes (Aesculus sp.) after they have been cooked for half an hour, but I have yet to see it for acorns.
Here is my current status on my growout of vining yellow squash for 2020. I was able to get 60 viable seeds from the one squash fruit I was able to get to mature, but I found two squash vine borers in the squash while I was extracting the seeds. I'm hoping to grow some of my seeds from 2019 next year as well as more of the seeds I got from Esoteric Agriculture.
It looks like this thread hasn't been active for a while, but I just wanted to share some images of monarch caterpillars I've taken this year. My neighbors have been growing milkweed so I've been seeing the caterpillars a lot more frequently this year.
Mainly out of fear for the lengthy and ever-changing terms and condition on YouTube, I decided to post most of my videos on Bitchute first. Most of my videos are poorly edited anyway so I don't think they would generate much traffic even if I did start a YouTube channel.
Here's my current Bitchute channel if you're curious:
The introductory post mentions that certain dry beans are toxic in their raw state. I recently read in a post by Green Deane that the fully dry beans of the hyacinth bean plant require special preparation in order for the beans to be eaten. I am currently growing a variety of hyacinth bean and I want to make sure I don't poison myself from not cooking the fully dry hyacinth beans properly:
r ranson wrote:The biggest problem growing it so far north is the days are too long. Cotton seems to be quite hardy with moisture and temperature variation, but it needs shorter days to be able to set the bolls.
I'm thinking of trying it with some morning shade next year. So it gets the sun at the heat of the day, but not so much light.
I wonder if this issue can be solved if there are day-neutral varieties of cotton. Corn and bean varieties from lower latitudes in Mexico tend to be photoperiod sensitive while corn and bean varieties from temperate latitudes in North America are more likely to be day-neutral. If there are day-neutral varieties of cotton available to home growers, then they may be more likely to set bolls during long days than photoperiod sensitive cotton varieties.
Since I've read that the toxic saponins in buckeyes and horsechestnuts (Aesulus sp.) can be leached out by boiling the cracked nuts in water for half an hour followed by a cold leach through cloth mesh, I've been wondering if a similar process could be used to leach out the toxic cucurbitacins from wild squash flesh. I have not found any ethnobotanic references to such a leaching process being historically used for wild buffalo gourds (Cucurbita foetidissima) or coyote melons (C. palmata and C. digitata), but I would not be surprised if such a method of preparation were historically used to prepare wild squash for eating before squash were selectively bred to not produce cucurbitacins.
If anybody finds a reference to such a process being used on the flesh of wild squash fruits, please let me know. So far, I have only found references to the seeds of wild squash being eaten, but nothing on the flesh of wild squash.
wayne fajkus wrote:I found this on amazon while looking for gallon jars. Brilliant idea. I think its made for kombucha. In winemaking you have to separate the pulp. Same with natural sodas. This allows me to keep the pulp separated from the beginning. Just put the fruit in the filter.
With seawater i filter it to get any particles out. Its ackward to balance a filter over the one gallon jar, then pour it in over the filter. This should solve that issue.
I hope this filter can filter out most of the microplastics from seawater. I would've suggested filtering the seawater through several layers of T-shirt fabric since this type of filter is also used to strain water from earthenware clay.
They have found plastic in seawater, micro particles. I read somewhere in the thread the concern about plastics and not wanting to introduce them into the mix. Did you know about this? If not, how might you filter them out?
I was wondering about incorporating a Fresnel lens to heat things up? It would need to be out of focus or it would melt the mason jar.
Next concern, if you use the Fresnel lens, at some point when heating sodium chloride, it ceases to be usable by the body in the same way. Not a chemist, not sure what that temp might be.
Just some thoughts for your brilliant mind to consider.
I guess you already adressed this issue. I'm certain though that there may be practical methods for filtering out microplastics, or at least larger microplastics.
Do you have a method of filtering out microplastics from the seawater? Depending on where you get the seawater, there may be trace ammounts of microplastics. You should probably filter the seawater through a few layers of fine mesh cloth to remove larger microplastics before evaporating the sea water.
Here is my latest update on the vining yellow squash. It looks like I'm only getting one seed fruit this year. That shouldn't be a problem since I have several other seeds from Esoteric Agriculture to grow out next year.
Because I haven't been satisfied with the constantly changing and convoluted terms and conditions for YouTube, I've been posting my garden videos on Bitchute. Currently, the forum does not display embedded videos from Bitchute, but hyperlinks still work in posts. Here is the link to my current channel that I've been using on Bitchute:
I briefly go over the state of my vining yellow squash plants on my latest garden update on Bitchute at around the 13:00 minute mark. Although I was finally able to get a second yellow squash fruit pollinated, I'm not entirely confident that the second fruit will mature in time before the first frost.
As of this morning I have posted a video on Bitchute of me grinding honey locust powder. The procedure I used generates a lot of airborne dust, so work in a well-ventilated area and wear a dust mask. I have not yet used the powder in baking, but I will document the results if I do.
As of last night, I documented my attempts at grinding honey locust powder on an online video. It took me six hours to grind two cups of powder with a food processor and I generated a lot of airborne dust in the process. Maybe I should wear a dust mask next time and grind the pods outside.
In my latest update on the vining yellow crookneck squash, it looks like I may not get more than one fruit from the squash this year. I'm hoping the other participants in this project are getting better results than mine.
As of this morning, I have just made a video of me pollinating my first fruit from the vining yellow crookneck landrace from Esoteric Agriculture. The video can be seen at the following link:
https://www.bitchute.com/video/d4LDkQycWGHc/ I have also attached an image.
I don't know if anyone has already mentioned this on this thread, but you can take the top stem of a pineapple fruit and root it in soil to get a small fruit after a year and a half. The plant can be grown outside in tropical or mild subtropical climates as long as frosts are rare or nonexistent in winter. The first year fruits will be much smaller than supermarket pineapples but they will taste much better since they have been picked exactly then they're ripe rather than a few days before they're ripe. I have never successfully tried this trick yet, but I have seen a video of an Australian gardener on Youtube demonstrate this method. Below is a link to the gardener's video. I hope the link doesn't break a few years after my post here.
I have excellent news. One of the two yellow squash plants with the longest vines has finallt set out female flower buds. I'm hoping I get a chance to pollinate the resulting flower this week. Hopefully the flower bud doesn't abort prematurely this time.
I'm wondering what's going on with my vining yellow squash I planted since it is still not setting any female flowers yet. My other squash plants are still fruiting since I have already harvested squash from my Mandan squash plant and my Homs Kousa squash, and my Montana Jack pumpkin is currently setting fruit. I'm hoping that I did not happen to plant mostly female-sterile vining yellow squash plants.
Most blackberries and raspberries I find growing wild grow in partial shade along the edge of forests, so I'm assuming the plants benefit from some protection from the sun. A video on growing blackberries and raspberries by Luke Marion from MIgardener seems to confirm this. The berries will dry out faster in full sun, so they need some shade to protect the plants and the berries.
I am in the process of collecting wild blackberry seeds right now for Fall sowing, so it is good to keep these shade requirements in mind. I was planning on planting the berries on the south side of my house so they have some protection from full sun.
Joseph Lofthouse has an existing crookneck landrace. I got a packet back in 2017 and another this year (though from a 2014 growout). I've planted both packets in a tomato isolation garden with Big Hill tomato. If any prove to be vining instead of bush I'll make sure to save seeds from them for you.
"Lofthouse Landrace Crookneck
I keep squash shape and color consistent with the traditional crookneck phenotype. I allow diversity of other traits like leaf shape, inter-node length, and days-to-maturity. Contains mostly bush types with a few percent semi-sprawling type vines. ~40 seeds. " Description From Joseph's website
The above quote from Joseph's website suggests a few percent with semi-sprawling type vines. I doubt there were 100 seeds in both packets combined. So far I've spotted one germinant. Though even if the trait doesn't show up in this grow out it might still be held in recession if it happens to be a recessive trait. Hopefully lots germinate and contribute pollen and fruits to the population and it proves a good representative of Joseph's landrace.
By now, I'm assuming you're getting some female flowers by now. Let me know if you have any good results.
I'm assuming that anyone growing out the squash seeds I sent last year should have female flowers by now. I have just finished hand-pollinating a squash flower this morning and I am in contact with a few other gardeners who have also been hand-pollinating flowers for seed saving. My vining yellow squash hasn't flowered yet, but I will let everyone know when I have been able to pollinate the plant. Here is a video of my recent experience as well as some photographs.