No interest in returning to Missouri though? I'm looking for a couple or a family to restore a cabin in the Ozarks. It is on four acres and I own six neighboring acres and rent the four on the other side. This place isn't perfect but most folks in the area care about sustainability and simple living.
I've ordered three straight runs from cackle hatchery this spring. They were indian runner ducks, Rouen ducks and an assortment of geese. Sadly the runner ducks are all drakes! The Rouens are six ducks and five drakes and the geese I haven't gotten good at vent sexing. The geese appear to have a size difference, four larger ones which I'm hoping are ganders and three petite ones. Both the Rouen ducks and the geese are for meat and keeping a trio to breed. I am going to end up keeping the six Rouen ducks just to have some eggs as my few khakis are older birds.
I find it very odd that the straight run of the only egg laying variety I ordered turned out to be all drakes! When I called and spoke with someone I was told basically I was wrong!?!?! They repeatedly said a straight run is a gamble and I can't get ducks to make up for the all drakes. The gal also kept insisting they've never had complaints about their straight runs before. Has anyone else ordered a straight run of an egg laying breed and only gotten drakes? Suggestions on an honest hatchery to order from next spring?
My teenage daughters and I all use cloth pads. There really comfortable aside from the middle of the hot humid summer. Then the extra layer of insulation is really noticable. I've used the cups before and prefer that when it's sweltering! We've always rinsed in water and used that on plants or into the compost.
I think I've bit off more than I can chew! I am buying a dilapidated but liveable cabin on four acres in the Missouri Ozarks. I live next door in my school bus and between the two properties have a nice little homestead. BUT fixing up the cabin is more than I can handle at seven months pregnant! I could just put it out of sight out of mind until next fall when I'm more able bodied and my baby will be able to be watched while I do work on the building.
I would like to offer the cabin up for someone else to live in if they are willing to make repairs and fix it up. You could have use of the garden area and chicken coop too, but some of the four acres I have perennial plants and other animals on. Perhaps paying in only sweat equity if you make enough progress. Or if little gets done and I pay for all supplies then I'd have to charge some rent. Of course if there are major rehab expenses we would have to split them or I would pay for supplies over time. I can not afford to replace all the walls at once, or do all the plumbing at once etc.
The timber frame is sound, the metal roof is waterproof, there is wiring but no electric, some old solar batteries, there isn't any working plumbing but there is some PEX and PVC under the cabin. The walls and floors are all rotting out plywood and molding insulation. The insulation, walls and floors all need replacing. The roof needs to be extended and it needs gutters so the rain won't keep seeping through the walls and floors.
Right now I'm just throwing the idea out there and am not sure if I'd rather just wait and do it myself next year. Ideally you'd be a small family that aspires to homestead, but not sure of the off grid lifestyle is for all of your family members without giving it a try. There are quite a few kids in the neighborhood and most of the neighbors and I all homeschool, so hopefully you homeschool too. There are very few job opportunities in this rural area, so having a savings to support yourself until you can find work is necessary.
I've gotten a deed for 6.5 acres and am making payments on four more. The company is legitimate despite the bad reviews some people have.
It's not suburbia or well paved subdivisions. This is raw, teal land for homesteading!
Most folks live in rental cabins or RVs, some camp in tents while building cabins. Most folks are mostly solar but also use generators, we truck in water but some have springs or pay to drill wells (we plan to drill a well in the future now that I've gotten a deed to my land).
Almost everyone homesteads to some degree ranging from just a small garden too having a herd of goats and flicks of birds. There are some folks that just want a peaceful cabin in the woods and are not into permaculture.
Check out the link if your interested in owning your own off grid permaculture paradise!
I'm a cheapskate and can say it was worth every cent! My homestead is truly remote and off grid and most folks buy the five gallons of bottled water to drink and truck in water totes for 'plumbing' and watering animals/gardens. I pump totes of creek water and truck them around then use that water in my Berkey to drink and ain't dead yet. I'd it's after a flood and the water is murkey I'll buy bottles water if I can. We do get flooded in a lot and then I will strain the water through.a milk filter to get sediment out before using the Berkey. The only issues I've had has been one of the plastic nuts that holds the filter in place breaking and then the water dripping through and not filtering, but it was really obvious from the sound it was not filtering.
Right now I switch between Sal's Suds and a zote/borax/soda mix. The mix gets things cleaner but I don't like adding that much borax to our grey water/soil. I have tried soap it's in the past and found it to work about as well as Sal's Suds but costed more. Yes, I plan to use dirty diaper water for grey water, at least to water compost/humanure and probably to water some longer term perennials that won't make food for a few years and some plants for the animals etc. So please don't flame me for wanting to use dirty diaper water and call it grey water instead of black water!
Please share any anecdotal evidence and experience with using Sal's Suds, soap Nuts or zote/borax/soda mix for washing Cloth diapers as well as using those soaps in your grey water. My main concerns are being ecological and economical. I would like to stock up on a laundry solution before my baby is born and not have to do multiple orders or end up with a lot of packaging.
Anne Miller wrote:Pictures might help the forum to troubleshoot what it might need to have done to make it work.
After we bought this property, we bought a wood stove and refurbished it. Unfortunately, our house is just too small to accommodate the pipe to vent the smoke, safely.
It is on our patio, so we can always cook outdoors if we need to.
I'll figure out pics on permits eventually. Please elaborate on why your house is too small? I know my bus is too small but want to make sure the cabin I wind up with can have a wood Cookstove as my summer kitchen plan is hopefully just for the summer!
We have no codes I built my skoolie and installed a regular wood stove in it. I think I can figure out how to do a hearth and chimney once I have a cabin. In the meantime the stove will be in a outdoor summer kitchen.
I came across a wood Cookstove at an antique store as a decorative non functional stove for a hundred bucks! I'm not sure if it can actually work but it looks like it's all there and just a lot of rust and dents.where would I go to begin researching how to troubleshoot what it might need to have done to make it work?
Robert Ray wrote:I did a lot of looking when we started our schoolie build. I bought a Whynter refrigerator/freezer. 12-24-110 volt, mounted it on a slide out,but it is portable if we want to remove it from the bus. A true compressor reefer.
Our solar has no problem keeping up with it. Cheaper than an RV refrigerator. Not long after I bought the Whynter a warehouse that supplies some of our after market auto parts started to sell their version and the price of a similar sized copy cat product was now 1/2 of what I paid for the Whynter. Look on you tube: van life, schoolie and Whynter in your querie. Amazon sells the Whynter and CSI Black Ice is the copy cat. We're trying the Black Ice version at an off grid canoe/kayak rental site this season I'll have a first hand review of that in a month or two of use. A variety of configurations one door, two doors different sizes but all of them thermostatically controlled so you can split reefer/freezer or run as just one temp for both compartments. Whyntner also offers a dedicated taller chest freezer.
You can see the similarities of the two brands. The CSI is shown on the slide that I use in the bus. I do have an insulated case that goes over the CSI and it helps tremendously on when it runs, many of the vanlife people mention using blankets to improve efficiency.
I agree with Mike, Liziqi has a great series of videos worth watching.
Thanks for the detailed review on these two RV freezers I'm going to definitely look into them and try to figure out how much more solar I would need to run them than what I have right now.
Barb Morris wrote:I’ve been living off-grid for the last 14 years. Refrigeration has been a bit of a struggle. At the beginning, I bought a lovely looking, antique icebox, but it didn’t do what I needed. I tried ice cubes, ice blocks, wrapped the ice in newsprint, covered it in sawdust, lined the icebox with extra 1” foam insulation…..nothing I did gave me more than a day, at best.
I also tried the Zeer pot with the two clay pots, sand and water. Unfortunately, the Nova Scotia climate doesn’t lend itself to that method.
Then I picked up a small, RV 3-way fridge and used it on propane for many years. Other than the 20 lb tank that I needed to fill every 18 days or so, it served my refrigeration needs.
When the fridge pooped out, rather than have it repaired I switched to a Mobicool 12 v cooler because I had increased the size of my solar array in the years prior. Other than not having an option for frozen food, this cooler has worked very well for me and I no longer have the propane expense.
I’ll add that last summer I learned how to pressure can meat and that replaced my need for a freezer (other than wanting ice cubes and the occasional ice cream).
canning meat and making jerky are definitely an a necessity in my situation. But I sure love a rare steak and a juicy burger every now and then! Since I have Kinder goats and mini pigs as my largest livestock I can stagger when I butcher animals and still get a few steaks and fresh meat and can or dehydrate the rest in a reasonable amount of time. I've only briefly looked into the propane refrigerators mainly because I'd like to simplify and just use solar but also because I'm afraid of what would happen to the food if the tank ran out and I didn't have a backup tank and I was flooded in for a few days or a week.
Kate Downham wrote:I used to freeze ice bricks in the freezer, and then use it in an esky/cooler. I got tired of it very quickly - I don't like dealing with ice and the mess that it makes, but maybe it would work for others.
There’s a few different things I’ve tried over the years:
The first is keeping dairy animals - when there’s fresh milk coming in every day, there’s no need to keep it at any particular temperature.
An old fashioned meat safe kept in a shady place can work, depending on the temperature outside. Another thing is evaporative cooling - there’s a ‘coolgaardie safe’ where a tray of water is placed underneath a meat safe, hessian fabric covers the meat safe and the ends of it are in the water, so that the fabric wicks up water from the tray, and the wind cools the air around it. A zeer pot, made from two terracotta pots, some damp sand, and damp fabric works in a similar way.
If you have access to a stream, spring, or well, you can keep things cold by putting them in the water inside a bucket or crate.
I’m not sure if this would work on a bus, but I know some houses have a tube running under the long side of the house, and coming up through a cupboard, with a chimney at the top of it, to direct cold air into the cupboard and warm air out of the top.
These methods have more ‘it depends’ about the temperature than modern refrigeration, so sometimes things don’t keep as well in them. I have found that salted butter keeps better than unsalted, cheeses in natural rinds or beeswax wrap keep better than cheese in plastic, and fermented or raw dairy keeps better than non fermented.
Different brands of 12v freezers use different amounts of electricity, so it’s worth doing research into it, as when I looked into it, some of them used the same amount of watts as a regular freezer, while others used hardly anything at all.
I have dairy goats that is part of the reason why I need a way to keep my milk cold. I like to save up a gallon or two before making cheeses. I do small batches of kefir and yogurt right now and have a little bit of milk that's just chilled to add to coffee in the morning. I do put pint and quart jars of milk in an ammo case in our Creek to keep it cold at times I guess I need to amp up my use of that natural source of coolness and find a way to make it larger or a more sturdy permanent storage cooler area.
Mike Kenzie wrote:Over the past couple of years I have been [obsessively?] watching videos by Liziqi and several other copy-cat homestead vloggers in rural China. One thing that I have noticed is that no one in rural China appears to own a refrigerator or an ice chest. They all just apparently ferment everything for preservation. No electricity needed, regenerative paradigm approved.
What's the one thing nearly every single one of my friends have in common? They all have Sandor Kat's Art of Fermentation on their book shelf!
Warning: I have never owned a GoSun product, so I cannot attest to their quality. I just have my eye on them almost as closely as I do on Liziqi and friends! :-)
We do a lot of veggie fermentations and dairy fermentations but no fermented meats I'd be a bit apprehensive to try that. I do need to learn more about smoking and salt curing as right now all I really do is canned stew chunks and make jerky. I'll see if I can get my hands and a copy of that book and check out the link for the 12 volt cooler freezer
So for the past year I have not had any modern refrigeration in my small off-grid skoolie kitchen. I've been using ice to put in the RV refrigerator I have in my bus and that will keep milk cool for a couple of days and if I put frozen meat in it it would be good for a day or two before cooking. I would really like to have more long-term food storage. Would using an actual old fashioned ice box be any more effective in keeping food cold and fresh and not going through so much ice? I would love to get a 12 volt chest freezer and just freeze my own eyes and keep me on hand but I'm not sure if that is in my budget this year. Has anyone use a 12 volt chest freezer if so please let me know how it worked out for you.
So I have a very large area that I can garden in that has my ducks and geese living in it previously and goats running then pigs for a little bit and now it is nicely tilled up. As a fairly secure 5 ft tall fence and so far nothing has gotten to the ducks or geese which around here is a miracle. So how large do various plants need to be before I can transplant them into this future garden. I did direct those some onions and potatoes and they're doing really good but I think other things the geese and ducks would find more edible. I do want to direct those some corn and a few other things that do better without being transplanted but I'm afraid that the weed eaters will eat them.
So I was planning on having two hutches for breeding does and one Buck hutch and then a rabbit tractor of sorts for all of the kits that we would keep to butcher. I've been hearing from some people that do to these stray dog situation having a rabbit tractor would be a very bad idea as it would not be a secure as a hutch with an fenced yard. Right now I only have two hutches one with a doe and a buck and the other with a dough and two kits. Should I plan on building two more hutches or one hutch and a rabbit tractor.
denise ra wrote:Gail, I'm on my phone so I can't tell what climate or area of the country you are in? Are you in tornado country, and If so is there a community shelter for when the alarm siren goes off? If you are in tornado country, then at a minimum you need 2x4 construction and the roof needs to be tied to the walls and then of course you will tie the walls to your foundation. Foundations are not cheap either, and I personally am finding out that they require quite a bit of forethought and work if you're doing them yourself.
Are other people who've bought these sheds and converted them happy with them?
Just some thoughts, not to discourage you but so that you're looking at the whole picture and not creating more trouble down the line because you're just trying to solve the problem of the moment. This is what I'm currently dealing with. 🙄
I am in the Ozarks and the general tornado risk here is pretty small usually if there is one it just touches down and then goes back up it's not like in the other parts of the Midwest where there is a real risk. But it's not an impossibility either so it is a concern that's crossed my mind I may decide to use a pier foundation instead of a gravel foundation like the other folks in my neighborhood have and the companies recommend. Pretty much everyone in the neighborhood seems to be happy with their rental cabins and rental sheds if turned into cabins some folks have ones that are 12x20 and other folks have ones that are two stories and 16x32 so there's a whole range of different tiny homes and converted sheds to cabins that are fairly large as well. There are a couple of families that have started out with one smaller rental and then gotten a second smaller rental so they basically have two homes.
Another consideration is that lumber prices could continue to skyrocket. If you build it yourself, you could end up paying higher lumber prices in the future, whereas if you build the structure yourself, you lock in today's lumber prices with a completed structure. I would buy the finished structure, these are built in a factory with mass production and you're barely paying anything more than the value of the lumber used to build the structure. 13K is a bargain for a prebuilt structure of this size, and after buying your own tools it would cost you nearly as much to build it yourself.
Some other projects around our homestead I feel like I already have a good portion of the basic tools my ability to use them is not what I was hoping it would be after a year. Yes the lumber prices are going up a lot the people said that this particular building a year ago was I believe 10 or 11 Grand instead of 13 so if I wait any longer I'm afraid it'll cost even more.
John C Daley wrote:That sounds like a well thought out plan.
When its finished you may have learnt a bit more and will be able to extend it through a window or similar.
I encourage you to go for it.
The other idea is to get a kit home, but you need skills to set out the foundations.
Or purchase an existing transportable place a similar size, we call them Granny Flats in Australia
I have been looking up a few of the bill that yourself kit homes well ones that are basically just shells and their costs are about the same as this building that is made by a local shed portable cabin manufacturer that caters to the rent to own type of communities I live in. The 14 ft by 40 ft building is around 13 Grand and a 16 ft by 32 building is around 12:00 and the delivery time is still about 10 to 12 weeks out.
Thanks for the support folks it was beyond crazy losing two types of kefir in one day I have put some of the salvage water kefir grains in about a cup of sugar water and do see a few bubbles this morning so I guess all is not lost I'm really hoping that I can revive and regrow them because we go through between a half or a quart and a half gallon of water key for a day it's kind of our staple hot weather drink.
Christopher Shepherd wrote:Our pot bellies always would breed under a year. It take 3 months 3 weeks and 3 days to have them. The most important thing for them here is shade in the summer and a wind block in the winter. The little ones are tiny and loose heat if it is to cold. They are nice to butcher at about 9 months old. We would butcher one in about 3 hours. The bacons are the cutest little things and cure easy. We can fit a whole ham in the roaster.
Well since it's been almost 2 months since I've got them and there's still no piglets I guess I should assume something is wrong with this specific breeding pair or maybe just give them more time to decide what to do. I've never bred pigs before but I'm really looking forward to having the small pot bellies to butcher at some point. Just out of curiosity at 9 months approximately what type of freezer weight do you wind up with?
We've found it can be quite a 'hot' topic though, and surprisingly controversial, so it's in the cider press.
You will need at least four apples, and pie, to post in it.
Okay thanks I guess I'm not a popular enough member of this form to be able to post in the parenting section yet oh well I guess I can try to bring up some of my topics elsewhere would that be a violation of the terms of service.
I just want to clarify I will be keeping the berry bushes in their grow bags for probably another year I am just wondering what else I can plant in the grow bags with them I suppose it's more companion planting than a complete permaculture guild.
As with the apple trees I have four blueberry bushes that I just don't know where to permanently plant yet I would like to know what is best to companion plant in their 5 gallon grow bags given they have a fairly acidic soil with peat moss and an organic acid loving plants supplements.
I have three apple trees in 10 gallon grow bags. I know they should go in the ground soon but I want to get to know my land a little bit better before deciding where the permanent keep them. Suggestions on what else to plant in the grow bags with them?
My wife and I have been investigating schooling options for our 4 year old daughter. We move around a lot (pretty much every 2 years) and are hoping to settle down soon onto some sort of homesteading lifestyle. My wife stays home with her and based on the current options (living in Houston at the moment) it seems like it is either home school or private school. Since private school is expensive it looks like we are leaning very heavily towards home schooling. So I had a few questions:
1. Any home schoolers out there recommend any certain curriculum? We have looked at Oak Meadows (based out of Vermont) and it appears to be very inline with our natural lifestyle. https://www.oakmeadow.com/ 2. How do home schooled kids stay plugged into kids activities (especially in small town areas). Not being attached to a school seems like it would limit a childs exposure to extra curricular activities (sports, clubs etc.)
3. Is it recommended to start early (our daughter is very bright and could start any time, but I don't want to push her too hard or have her graduate at too young of an age)?
4. One of the things we have been reading is that home schooling requires much less time commitment than traditional school. Can anyone confirm this? We have heard that the total time required of actual learning per day is ~2 hours (especially for younger kids).
Thank you in advance,
We use sunlight curriculum it is literature based and fairly interactive there's hands on history projects and lap books but most of it is based on reading and discussion. Most of my kids start at around 6 years old but tag along with their older siblings before then. Our social activities have consisted of co-op church and 4-H which I sometimes find to be overwhelming since I'm not social butterfly. The phrase actual learning per day and homeschool lessons are not an equivalent amount of hours.
Okay so apparently my water kiefer decided to explode despite my burping it. I was unable to salvage much of the grains from the ceiling and the books that are now a sticky mess. Not to mention the shrapnel of broken glass from the Mason jar that's everywhere. And on top of that the past two days my goat's milk kefir has been smelling off and the grains have been turning brown and shriveled instead of saying plump and white the company says it's because they use raw goat's milk now rather than sticking with the store-bought kind that I activated it with. So now I am basically out of fermentations aside from kimchi and some sauerkraut and I've had a couple of big messes to clean up I hope everyone else is fermentation adventures have been going better than mine this week!
So it seems like most folks in my subdivision start out with lofty dreams of building a cabin from scratch or building an earthbag structure or some other type of DIY living arrangement. Most folks live in either RVs or rental sheds that they have finished to be cabins. In the past year of building goat sheds chicken coops and other temporary animal structures I realize I'm quite far from a carpenter and neither are my children well yet my youngest son has potential.
So I am thinking of buying one of the pre-built cabin shells that is 14x40 ft with a loft it is going to have a porch and electricity and is priced at 13k does this sound reasonable? From working on my school bus conversion I think I have the basics understanding of water pumps a propane water heater and PEX plumbing as well as insulation and building interior walls. Biggest difference in my building attempts and my bus project has been structural integrity and soundness I feel like the bus conversion was more interior decorating and actually making sure I can build something on a foundation that won't fall down.
Also I am pregnant and due around Halloween so I want to be finished with a home we'll before then. The cabin company has an 8 to 10 week build time so I would be getting the shell with electric wiring in late July. I feel like that would give me enough time to do insulation for the winter and basic plumbing as well as putting in an interior wall for the bathroom and kitchen. I just feel like if I tried doing something from scratch this spring and summer by the time winter rolled around we'd be left with a skeleton and staying in the bus again for another winter.
Andrew Mayflower wrote:If they are broad-breasted turkeys they won't be able to breed on their own. How big are they? My big heritage tom is maybe 30lbs live weight at a year old. I've dressed out broad-breasteds at that weight or above by 4-5 months. A year old broad-breasted tom would likely be 50-70lbs live weight.
Also, at a year old, if you can't distinguish the toms and the hens something is wrong. With the turkeys I've raised (broad-breasted and heritage) I can usually tell the toms from the hens by a few months. 6 months tops. Between different plumage and behavior it's usually pretty obvious. I did have one heritage turkey that I wasn't positive on until slaughter when I found testicles that were about 1/4 the size of a chicken's. But he was the exception (and I'll point out exceptionally tasty as he put on a glorious fat layer).
If they really are a year old, and are broad-breasted turkeys, I'd slaughter them as soon as you have time to do so. A good way to use the massive carcasses like that is to carve off the breast and thigh meat (I leave the skin on, but I do de-bone). Cure it, then smoke it. You'll have the most amazing lunch meat ever. The drumsticks and wings are best braised, but even low and slow on the grill will work.
If they're heritage turkeys then you should be finding eggs by now. Get an incubator with an automatic egg turner and try hatching them.
All five of the birds are definitely over 30 lb I think the two largest ones would be closer to 50. Aside from the feathered out full plumage of the toms and the beards I just don't know what to look for in turkeys as I've never raised them before now that they are done molting and have their feathers again I'm pretty sure I can tell which two are toms but there are three that have beards. I guess I need to learn more about smoking and charcuterie because I'm really kind of getting tired of feeding these boring birds unlike my ducks and chickens they just don't have much entertainment personality and value.
I have been using kencove positive negative goat and poultry electric netting but apparently it is very flimsy and poorly made. It snags on every single branch and Thorn there is and it shorts out whenever any vegetation touches it. So in order to set it up I need to clear a 2-ft path through the woods I usually try to angle it around trees and just cut down small shrubberies.
What options are there for rotational grazing silvopasture? Do I need to look into permanent paddock fencing rather than portable electronic fencing? Right now I am only rotating goats and ducks but I do plan to start following them with miniature pigs shortly.
Dogs keep chasing my livestock. It started with ducks and chickens now they chase my cow out of the barbwire paddock. They've killed so many birds and cats I hate myself for bringing these innocent animals here to be sitting ducks. My goats and few remaining birds now are in a portable netting electric fence. The four foot electric goat netting seems to be the only thing that keeps them out! There is a large pack of assorted sized muts so with four foot field fence I think some jump over and some squeeze through and some climb. I've tried three strands of elecric and they either jump it or dig under.I want my animals to be safe but I'm to the point where I might just sell my cow if I can't fence her in safely and build her a locking barn instead of a loafing shed. The goats and ducks really seem to be all that I can protect right now! I have been given pigs from a friend and have them in a very small sturdy pen but feel that there too confined. I'm just at ab loss for what to do about this pack of dogs. Other neighbors say they have killed goats and pigs in the past and their owner keeps letting them roam loose!
Phil Grady wrote:I would suggest putting it in an area that the goats cant get too.
poultry food isn't good for goats as it is very high in calcium and can cause serious urine track problems that can be very costly to fix and fatal to the goats.
Due to loose dog's as n the neighborhood I have to keep my livestock on lockdown bit I want to rotate my ducks with my goats in the future so they can be more free range. I'm trying to get ideas for a feeder / feed house that's portable that ducks can get to but goat can not. Right now I'm just giving he ducks sweet feed and grit. It is 12% sweet feed and the layer feed is 16% so my biggest worry is enough calcium. I can not affort two portable electric fences at this point and do not want to keep my ducks in a stationary confined area since they can't be free range.
How bad is your wildlife pressure and what is it? The answer for moose is very different than mice.
You can just plant an overabundance and share. You can encourage predator habitat (not advised if you have chickens). You can plant protective border plants, either spiky or scent based. You can do all kind of scarecrow tactics depending on the threat. You can be the predator and hunt/trap them.
But come a dry spell and those animals will do just about ANYTHING to get to the best food around.
I live in a rural subdivision of five too ten acre parcels. Not all parcels have people living there.There are very few deer but there are some. There are too many racoons and snapping turtles and an occasional coyote ( although being in the forest I want to say all coyote damage has been loose dog's as all they yote tips sound miles away in the valley where there is pasture) There are lots of non predators like wild rabbits, squirrels, birds etc that I don't really mind sharing with if I can figure out what and how to plant an abundance.
Is there such a thing? I'd love to grow more edible plants on my property but without more fencing I'm concerned wildlife will eat most of it. Id like to do perennial kale, sorel and other perennial veggies, herbs, mushrooms, fruit bushes and trees etc..