There are probably dozens of powders that are suitable for the 308. The usual suspects are H4895, IMR 4895, IMR 4064, IMR 3031. I'd probably google accuracy loads for the M1a, then check them against PUBLISHED DATA.
No way of telling what a temp change will do in your rifle. I recommend testing the load in weather consistent with hunting season.
Also be aware of how you hold the rifle for bench work should be the same as hunting. Had a rifle yesterday that went from 6" groups to 1.5" groups depending on the way I held it. Extreme example, but it makes a difference.
Came across this review of a "precision" $2700 rifle this morning in a 2013 issue of American Rifleman. Even using the ammo the rifle was designed around, they were not able to break an inch. They said it might still need breaking in, but at 200+ rounds, I'd consider it broken in. I also think CAD/CNC manufacturing techniques have improved since 2013, and there are numerous reports of $400 rifles shooting as well or better than this now. I always try to look for a review by a reputable magazine to get an idea for real world accuracy as individuals tend to refer back to that one lucky 3 shot group they shot that one time.
I'd love to have a heathly population of deer and turkey in the area, but have neither despite being 5 miles from gamelands/state park and 15 miles from national forest.
My thought is poaching. I often hear a single shot around dawn.
We've added hundreds of food producing plants to what was once lawn and Roundup Ready Corn, but I don't think our 6 acres is a big enough island to attract and hold the larger game species. Possums, coons, groundhogs, squirrels, rabbits, hawks, songbirds, reptiles, amphibians, and insects all seem to be doing well. We harvest a few squirrels, groundhogs, and rabbits, and I could easily take a few possums/coons if I wanted, but deer and turkeys are unobtanium. We might try for Canada goose this year, they don't land on our property, but we are in the flight path.
I would sort your brass based on your desires for accuracy in the other thread.
You do not need to clean the brass. If anything, residual carbon helps lube the case. You will need to make sure flash holes are clear and that primers are fully seated, as a proud primer can result in the very undesirable slamfire/out of battery events mentioned in my last post.
Mentioned in the thread, but just to reiterate, you will need a good scale and calipers.
You will need a way to trim brass to length. I use the simple Lee tools to my satisfaction. The case holder and pin holder (cutter) are sold seperately from the caliber specific gauge rod. I chuck the case holder in a cordless drill, otherwise I could barely get through 20 cases before my hands cramp.
After trimming, you will need to chamfer and deburr the case mouth. I found the Lee tool to be lacking and now use a RCBS all in one tool. I do this while the case is still chucked in the drill from trimming. Careful though, the tool cuts quickly.
Your brass may stretch each time you full length size with the Lee dies and will need to be checked each time. The stretching takes place right in front of the case web, about 1/2"-3/4" up from the bottome of the case. After several reloadings, depending on the pressure of your loads, and headspace of you rifle, this area begins to thin, but it is difficult to see from the outside of the case. In order to inspect the case, take a stiff piece of wire, and run it up and down the inside of the case in this area, if the area is not smooth, destroy the case by crushing it. If reloaded, it can result in a case head separation, stuck case, and or gas excursion. None of which are good. Autoloaders are less forgiving in this department as well. This is a big departure from reloading pistol calibers.
The RCBS X Die (sizing), requires an initial trimming (I had to take a hair off my Lee trimmer to meet the spec) but then it holds the case to length and significantly controls the thinning at the case head, significantly extending case life. I haven't found the limits yet, as I have not been using them long, but I have seen very good reports from reputable sources.
You will absolutely need to full length size your brass for your Winchester 100! You will also need to crimp the bullet firmly. You should also have a case gauge (round metal thing with a hole in it) to drop your loaded rounds into to make sure they meet specs. You will probably not need the small base die, this is more for match grade (tight) chambers found on competition guns.
Necksized brass in a semi auto can result in slamfires or an out of battery firing. Insufficient crimp can result in bullet setback during the autoloading process, potentially raising pressures to kaboom levels.
Pricier, but the RCBS X-dies will prolong the lifespan of your brass by many times. I've replaced my lee sizing dies with the x dies for semi autos. I still use the lee crimp dies.
I'll post more after reading the rest, but caught these items skimming...
Had to look up that rifle. Don't think I've ever seen one in person. Nice looking, almost like a Marlin 60 on steroids. And as others have said, I wouldn't do anything irreversable to that rifle. Under 2" is pretty dang good for a 308 semi-auto that weights around 7lbs. Not to mention a wood stock that moves with changes in temperature and humidity.
This fellow had the best luck with Hornady 168-grain BTHP match ammo.
Are you shooting off of sand bags or some other stable and repeable rest?
How many shots to a group? Not too hard to luck into a decent 3 shot group, thats why gunmakers use that number. Probably good enough for a hunting rifle. To statistically verify an accurate load you should be shooting 10 shot groups which will require a barrel cooling procedure. First shots from a cold clean bore should be thrown out. As an alternative to throwing out the first shot, I've seen people clean between shots to maintain a consistent barrel condition.
Just me, but I have found that rather than chasing accuracy, I would rather work on my shooting abilities. For example, if you know your rifle shoots around 2.5" at worst. Set a target up that would be easy to hit benched, maybe even your 4" grapefruit, at 100 yards. Then practice shooting at it prone, sitting, kneeling and standing. Rather than a grapefruit at 300 yards, perhaps a 10-12" steel gong. Not the machine, but the man, kind of thing...and very useful for hunting in the field.
What shape are your groups? Round? Strung vertically or diagonally?
Gobs of match grade 308 ammo can be purchased during normal times. No guarantee, but it might return smaller groups. If your get into handloading for absolute accuracy, the variables are endless. Bullet selection (brand and weight), powder selection, charge selection, brass selection, primer selection. Then you get into things like seating depth, neck runout, primer pocket and flash hole uniforming, neck tension, amount of crimp... The list is endless!
Does the rifle have a trigger that breaks cleanly and under 4 lbs? While great accuracy is possible with heavy, creepy triggers, they sure don't help.
You should be aware of parallax error in your scope. Parallax error occurs when your eye ends up in a slightly different position between shots. Depending on the model, your scope is set to be parallax free a certain range. Perhaps 150 yards in your Leupold. If you can't find it online for your model, a call to Leupold should give you the answer. At 300 yards the error is likely minimal, maybe a half inch to an inch, but it all counts. Ideally you would have a scope set for 300 yards, but the next best thing to do is making sure you set your cheek weld the same every time. This will also help the rifle to recoil the same each time.
Semi-autos, while capable of excellent accuracy, do not tend to be quite as accurate as bolt actions. Generous chamber tolerances aid feeding. More moving parts. Even the position of the powder in the case from shot to shot can make a difference, especially when feeding from a magazine.
Your rifle is probably fitted with a thin or medium contour barrel. As mentioned earlier, heat causes the barrel to move slightly. A heavy barrel's (like those found on target and varmint rifles) thermal mass helps absorb the heat and mitigate the effects of the heat. A heavy barrel is also stiffer. If you watch high speed footage of a rifle being fired, the barrel actually has a wave that moves down it like bullwhip.
You can go as far down the rabbit hole you want chasing accuracy, do a gut check every now and again to make sure you are still enjoying yourself!
If you want heat quick, think about a car radiator, as it is designed to dump heat as quickly as possible. Lots of thin metal and airflow to dissipate heat quickly.
The heat coming off the top of your stove has already been transferred to your garage. Like Douglas said, you need to capture more heat from the flue gasses to increase efficiency. I like Lisa's heat sink idea. They also made commercial heat exchangers that fit in a flue stack. Another simple method is figure out a way to lengthen your stove pipe inside. Beware that lengthening, slowing, and/or cooling flue gasses can result in creosote buildup and increased chimney fire risk. The solution to this is to split wood small and only burn it bone dry, being careful not to over fire your stove. Your wood should always be bone dry, as it takes a lot of energy (wasted heat) to dry out wet wood. Store your wood under cover, with good airflow, for at least a year, longer if possible.
For now, I'd focus on sealing and insulation. You'll see more improvement from that than you would a few percentage points in efficiency on your stove.
I wouldn't pile them up against the trunk or over the exposed roots. Had some agressive fungus start on a very large oak with leaves piled around the trunk during a wet spell. I raked them back and the fungus cleared up.
Recieved 2 chestnut oaks instead of chestnuts on an order maded in 2016. The oaks are 2x the size of the chestnuts planted at the same time, appear less bothered by pests, and made their first (unsucessful) attempts at acorns this year. I can certainly see the potential for livestock feed. I've never tried eating acorns of any variety. If they work out, I will be pleased. The more diversity the better!
Heat seems to treat me the best, but sometimes cold is the ticket, especially in the summer. Alcohol seems to delay it but make it worse. I've pretty much given up OTC meds unless something is actually injured. Stretching helps, i should probably prestretch more than I do...
All the usual stuff: reduce stress, exercise, try to get enough sleep, limit caffeine and alcohol. If you have reason to believe hormonal changes are taking place, it may be worth getting hormone levels checked.
Our state soil tests do not report organic matter, but rather humic matter. Makes it hard to compare with other's organic matter numbers. I can't seem to find any reference numbers on what is good bad or otherwise for humic matter. Any ideas?
Buddy and I both shot does over the weekend. He graciously donated his gut pile to the cause. So now we have 4 layers of charcoal and 3 layers of guts filling the barrel. the weather has been quite warm, and I did not detect any odor from the week old lamb guts when I was adding the deer guts.
Only thing I do is add woodchips to the pen to keep it from becoming a swamp with the winter rains and make sure to break the ice on their water if it freezes. Otherwise they seem to do just fine, however it doesn't get as cold here as it does up your way. We have added leaves for bedding this year and the pig seems to like burrowing into them. I see a lot of people use straw.
I concur with those that suggest slowing down! I try not to cut anything unless I know what it is. I was just talking to a neighbor last night that regularly laments bushogging everything when he bought his property. Even on my place, our goats probably ate untold numbers of hardwood sapling I wish I had now. You never know, you may be mowing off some very valuble medicinal herb.
Please share your location, that'll give everyone a better idea of what plants and soil you may have.
I've got a mentally challenged son that is very able bodied and is willing to work hard. I'm hoping he'll be able to help me for quite some time. When the time comes, I could always switch from freezer destined livestock to just a couple pasture ornaments to keep the grass down, buy my firewood, shrink my garden. If I get to where I can't harvest my tree crops, I'd probably invite friends and family over to harvest, and if that isn't enough, advertise on craigslist.
I keep myself pretty busy hauling biomass and fine tuning things, but I designed the farm when I was working full time, so, if needed, I can get by doing very little. Prior to the pandemic, we easily traveled for the majority of the summer, returning to a jungle of a garden, fat livestock, and taller trees. All that was needed was a friendly neighbor to keep an eye on water and chicken feed.
My grandfather let somebody else dig his potatoes for the first time this year at 87, so if I can do as well as he has, I'll be pretty happy!
No doubt that the wettest areas of our property experience the highest incidence of blowdowns. I'm worried that more slowing and sinking rain will result in more of my mature trees blowing down. Any thoughts?
I was torching some fireants near a fruit tree and noticed a little bit of my biochar smoldering. Got me thinking about some of the carbon sequestration plans that include tilling in multiple tons of biochar per acre. Any chance this could result in combustible soil? I'm imagining something similar to underground coal fires that are nearly impossible to extinguish and can smolder on for decades. Any thoughts?
Fire ants are the only ants that concern me. Saw some where what 3 gallons of boiling water was maybe 60-70% effective in killing the colony. Haven't tried it, but I have stirred them up and hit the hoard with a weed torch. Doesn't kill the colony, but knocks them back pretty well.
10 gallons of charcoal, mostly quarter size, under the guts, head, forelegs and hide. Ten gallons over the top, all in a 55 gallon drum. Lamb was slam full of grass and hay.
I have used this method with wood chips extensively in the past with great success. No turning, I just give it a year. I believe red wrigglers do most of the work as I find thousands when I empty the barrels. Otherwise just hair and bones. Sometimes very fatty scraps off of a hog will need a little longer. Only stink problems I have had are when I tried fish.
Finished compost is delivered to the chickens under my fruit and nut trees. They enjoy the worms and the trees enjoy the compost and manure.