Ebo David wrote:I love Red Green (thanks for the allusion ;-)
My personal goal would be to predict the behavior of my own modified design, and then measure where appropriate to post validate. It is likely that I would not go the full monte on validation, but easily 1/4 of the instrumentation can be used in actively manage the greenhouse operations or passive monitoring to tell me that "Houston we have a PROBLEM".
Are you saying that you are going to work to write some greenhouse automation/monitoring software? I'm a developer by trade and I'd be interested in collaborating with you on this.
I've been wanting to build a greenhouse for a number of years and in my mind come to a similar design as yours. First off let me say I'll be watching this thread very closely, I'm excited especially for the arches, I need to make a jig and arches like you... hopefully I can contribute some things too! A few things I thought of when reading your design.
Glazing: Solawrap is great stuff, it's been used in the EU for a while and recently available in the states. It gets rave reviews and is super durable with an excellent warranty, light diffusion and insulation properties are excellent as well. As soon as I read about it I was sold over poly carbonate and everything else.
North wall windows: I think you original design of overlapping the arches and having the vents be vertical instead of built into the roof is better. Sealing out water and ice is going to be challenging with a vent built into the roof. Additionally if your vents are ever open during a rainstorm you will get water in through your roof which could lead to erosion inside your greenhouse. I've seen this happen to someone with a hoop house greenhouse and north roof vents built into roof of the northwall.
Mark Tudor wrote:I have a Wagner that had been sitting in a drawer for a couple years that I pulled out and cleaned off using Sheryl's tips- no self cleaning oven, so I sprayed oven cleaner over it and tossed in a plastic bag to sit for a day. I cleaned that off the next day, wiped off a tiny bit of rust that started after the coating was gone, and then coated it all with the organic, food grade flax oil I bought for this. Wiped it down and tossed into the oven at 450 or so for an hour, then let it cool and repeated 5 more times. After it cooled off the surface was smooth and not tacky at all.
Looked great afterwards, I put some olive oil in the pan and heated it up on low/medium heat (4 of 10 gas heat) and once it heated up I tossed an egg on to cook. It stuck quite a bit, and I saw numerous little bits of coating flaked off. I was using the metal spatula Paul recommended in his article but wasn't scraping hard. After I was done it took some work to clean the surface and a lot more little flakes came off, and almost all of them were around the middle, which is where the flame was sitting when on low.
Not sure if even low heat was enough to soften the surface here, but this was far less effective than the first time I seasoned the pan, which I think was with canola oil around 5 years ago. Not sure if I can scrub the surface down until no more flakes come off, then toss back in the oven to add more coats, or if I need to use the Easy Off again and get it back to bare metal, and then try it again using Alex's idea of heating it to 350 and applying coats that way. I notice the chart shows the smoke point of flax is 225, so aren't we hitting that smoke point anyways if we season at 350? Maybe just not as bad as 450-500?
I had the exact same problem with flax seed oil. I've read somewhere on the internet that flax seed is great for a decorative display seasoning for cast iron, but it flakes off in real world use. When mine flaked off I did as you described(scrape/scrub off the rest of the flax seed that is willing to come off) then season with another oil(canola/vegetable/lard) that doesn't end up flaking like flax seed.
I was treated for chronic lyme disease by a general practitioner who practices chinese medicine. He put me in contact with an herbalist in the VT area (PM me if you want her information, I don't want to abuse the forums by putting and advertisement here.) The herbal supplements got my lyme disease AND chronic mono in complete remission. The last 2 months of the treatment and for 2 months afterwards I suffered from piles. In order to get rid of them I tried drinking tons of water, changing my diet to include more fiber even though it already contained plenty and many creams and suppositories etc etc. I finally worked up to the courage to go to the chinese medicine doctor again and he advised taken a one month course of herbal liver cleanse(not sure if this is a detox), this cleared the piles up and they are GONE!
Now I just need to keep on a good diet and avoid sugar and alcohol to keep it the lyme in remission.
I'm working on a permaculture design for my property, I'm planning a designed disturbance of removing some trees and using them as firewood and lumber. After that I'd like to plant an instant succession food forest. The book Edible forest gardens tells you to design for the horizon/climax state and then work backwards from there. So if your horizon state is 25 years you draw in all those plants at full maturity and then work the timeline backwards in say 10 or 5 year increments. Does anyone have a design they can share that shows these 5 or 10 year increment states and the climax state? I work best with examples so I was hoping the permies.com hive-mind might have some resources they could share!
If there are no examples, I will end up posting some here of my design .
Tracy West wrote:Never tried it.
I have used sulfa dust on woody/pine straw mulched areas when we lived in town.
I have had guineas in several locations and they really cut down on ticks.
Keeping brush piles and long grass cut really helps,too.
Keeping brush piles helps keep ticks down, or are you saying the opposite... that brush piles attract ticks?
Ok, so now I've got my plot imported into inkscape. How do we go about getting the scale correct? Am I getting caught up on a trivial thing? I'd like to know the scale so that i can make trees/objects the appropriate size... Help!?
Cj Sloane wrote:Kevin, I've been on a ketogenic diet for over 2 years. I have lost 30 lbs and my blood work is excellent.
I suspect if I had a particle test the LDL would be the light fluffy kind and the numbers would look even better.
I think you can be healthy on a low fat or low carb diet. If you have any sort of insulin resistance low carb is much better. Also better for any neurological issues. The brain is 70% fat BTW.
If you have no health issues, than you just have to choose - would you rather have butter and bacon or bread and bananas?
What about walking the middle ground? Say Medium carb medium fat which is essentially what I am eating right now... all organic and pasture raised meat and dairy and all organic plants.
John Saltveit wrote:There's a real conflict in modern nutrition advice among doctors specializing in nutrition. Some, like Michael Greger, Joel Fuhrman, and Neal Barnard, emphasize plants and how they can stop heart attacks, cancer and overweight. Others, like David Perlmutter, Joseph Mercola, and Josh Axe, emphasize the value of eating fat and meat for a low glycemic load, and therefore stopping diabetes, alzheimer's disease, and thereby other things. The high fat people are insistent that you should only eat pastured organic meat or meat products. People seem very excited to have permission to eat as much meat and fat as they want, and almost none of them seem to pay attention to the crucial point that they need to be organic and pastured. I think both groups of doctors have got good points. I neither eat a high carb nor a high fat diet, although most in both camps will grudgingly admit that if you eat both high carbs and high fat, it is bad for you. Many people have decided that their side is awesome and the other side is evil. I think they are actually asking different questions. All of them agree that eating lots of organic fresh and mostly raw vegetables is probably the most important thing to do.
All agree that mushrooms are key to good health. Shiitake is the most popular because it is both a delicious culinary mushroom and an outstanding medicinal mushroom. Lion's mane is great for anti-brain degeneration, according to preliminary research.
I am almost a vegetarian, but I did just buy some pastured pork and we've been cutting it up and slowly adding bits of it to meals. This is a little bit complicated because my wife is a vegan. She is on a low fat diet. I am not. I only eat pastured organic butter but I also eat vegetable spread that is set for the right omega 3's and 6's.
In other words, there is a lot of controversy surrounding the ketogenic or vegan diets, but hardly any controversy about the idea that we should be eating a lot more mushrooms and vegetables. French fries and tater tots don't count as vegetables.
John it sounds like you've done quite a bit of research on the ketogenic vs vegan diets. I've recently been listening to Dr. Greger's "How not to die" audio book. Would you expanding your thoughts on how you're striking a balance between these two types of diets? Dr. Greger quotes alot of studies and they sound very compelling, I've not researched these studies myself nor have I read any books from the ketogenic side. Can you recommend any that would help me round out my knowledge. I'm trying to determine if I really need to go strictly vegan in order to ward off all the nasty western diseases.
Thanks, I reviewed that thread and the others from past years goals in detail. I also reviewed all briefly reviewed all of my other posts to see if I put it in some other topic but alas I'm not finding my post .
Burra Maluca wrote:So long as you posted from the same account, you should be able to find them still. I had a look through and I can't find any post of yours that seems to fit.
Are you certain you posted and didn't just read the thread and think of the goals without actually writing them down?
I'm 99.9% certain that I created a post to a topic that someone else created for "goals for the year/ new year" for either 2015 or 2016. It's a memorable moment for me because my wife and I brainstormed things to do and one of those was install a solar array, which did happen!
paul wheaton wrote:Are you saying that you think whole threads might be missing? Have you looked at your own post history to see if you can find the threads that way?
I think my posts to certain threads are missing, specifically about goals for the new year... either 2015 or 2016. I did look through my own post history via my public profile view, I didn't find this specific "goals post" that I was looking for. I then used the search feature and searched for posts by me... thinking the search feature might yield different results.
I recall posting to one of the 5 goals for 20xx topics. I believe it was for 2015 or 2016. I really was hoping to review this post and make a 5 goals for 2017 post based off of what I haven't accomplished.
Bryan de Valdivia wrote:Todd, thank you for the links for CitS and Greencube. For somebody looking to save money, am I inferring correctly that the Greencube folks co-authored the CitS stuff and are the folks doing the most current/updated work in that vein?
Kevin, I don't have the "Forest Garden Greenhouse" book, but I took a look at the CRMPI website and likewise couldn't find any best practices info on their climate battery work. Do you happen to have more info on how to search for that info on their website or a related site?
I think I was going to the wrong website, it's on this website of theirs.
The man that wrote the Citrus in the Snow book contained his tubes immediately under the greenhouse, but the people that publish his work and have done much testing on these systems have put out others publications documenting their work in the area and they recommend the tubes be placed in a trench in the manner I mentioned. I purchased CitS and the Geo-air A-Z publication and I found them to be excellent. The Greencube people are adding other free publications showing some of the their testing to people that have purchased those items. In the most recent one I read, they test an above ground hoop house against a Finch-style (CitS) greenhouse. I found it very interesting.
Todd, do these people explain why the tubes should not be run directly under the greenhouse structure the what that CRMPI has found? I think we should be supporting CRMPI here because they are making the best practice data available for climate batteries for free, although I'm struggling to find it on their website. In the book "Forest Garden Greenhouse" they say they are making the information available for free...
Water freezes from the top down. Could you get some chicken watering nipples and install them on the bottom? Then it is just a matter of sizing the container that it stays unfrozen long enough to suit your needs.
I think a "U" shape filled with organic matter will greatly reduce the ability of the swale to spread the excess water across the swale. Filling it with organic matter would at least slow down the spread of that water across the swale. Depending on what you have uphill from the swale this may make little difference to you. However if you had a high concentration of water that you know is going to hit a small specific part of the swale and you intend for that water to be spread the length of the swale or you want that swale to overflow/fill a damn than you might want to go with a V shape so that organic matter does not obstruct the flow of water.
If water infilitrates really quickly in the bottom of your swale and you're not planning to reduce the infiltration your choice in swale type may make little difference as the water might never make it to your overflow with either style.
John Wolfram wrote:Ouch, $50 a per tree with a less than stellar chance of it surviving it's first year. I bought my share of expensive $30+ pawpaw trees, and the only thing that lives on of those trees is the scion wood I cut from them. I've had much better success buying the trees in bundles of 100 from the state nursery and simply expecting heavy losses. Since a bundle of 100 actually costs less than some of the fancy potted trees I bought, I'm A.Okay with having a 90% mortality rate among the cheap pawpaws.
How do you handle filling in the gaps created by the dead pawpaws? For example if you planted an entire swale in paw paws and then 90 percent of them die do you just replant until you've filled all of the intended spaces?
If i were to reseason a skillet I might do one or 2 coats of seasoning on the outside, but no more. It's essentially to stop it from rusting, if you don't have any rusting on the outside then don't bother seasoning the outside. I would imagine the entire thing comes seasoned from the factory.
I'm also struggling with where to acquire the amount of soil necessary to build a 6 foot tall hugel bed. On this Podcast - 340 - Hugelkultur Listener Questions With Cassie - Part 2 Paul mentions digging down 3 feet on either side of where you want to build the hugel (your pathways) and piling that on top of your hugel which would be inbetween the two pathways you just dug. A couple of thoughts/questions on come to mind.
Won't the water puddle up in the low pathways and essentially give water a place to drain away from the hugel... depending on the climate this might be bad?
Does Paul intend for us to dig out the center to the same height as the pathways and place the wood at "path level" and build from there? So essnetially having to provide almost 6 feet of wood material and covering it, vs 3feet if you didn't dig out the center?
This 3 dip in terrain change in a yard area will be dangerous, how do we make it safer? We could fence it in and or make it a gradual transition to 3 feet.
When I go to my chicken coop at night, when I arrive at the coop I get mosquitoes around/on me. I'm not sure if the mosquitoes are after the chickens though... perhaps they aren't attracted to the chickens but their open water buckets.
I'm working on calculating my swale size using this calculator https://www.permaculturereflections.com/swale-calculator/. I'm struggling to find 100 year rainfall data for MA. Does anyone have a resource they've used in the past, I keep ending up on sites with interactive maps and charts, but this is not giving me the information that I'm looking for. What resources have you all used to gather your 100 year weather events? This is what I've found so far but it doesn't even go back 100 years, http://water.weather.gov/precip/.
Dan Huisjen wrote:Wooden frame gothic arch, made of wood strapping and 2x4 blocks, covered with 6-mil greenhouse plastic, on whatever foundation you can manage. I use cedar posts topped with 2x4 for mine. A 16" dump of wet heavy snow slides right off.
Did you assemble the gothic arches in some sort of a jig in order to get the appropriate and consistent curvature? I'm also curious if anyone has ever put polycarbonate panels on these and how far the panels can bend and how they attached the panels to the arches.
I'm seeking the services of individual/team of individuals that is experienced with Permaculture design and implementation in this area of the country. I do have my PDC and I am passionate about permaculture and have created a rudimentary design myself. I'm looking for this team of individuals to finalize this design with my input and set about creating an implementation plan. I'm also looking for this team to assist with the implementation kick off, and depending how that goes perhaps even fully implement it.
I'd like to tour properties that this team has designed and or implemented.
Justin Rhodes wrote:Hey, I'm wondering what kinds of electric fence everyone is using. I've been using Premier 1 for fencing and energizers from Tractor supply (Zareba). I love the fence, but the energizers don't seem to last. What have you had good luck with?
I got both my fence and energizers from premier 1. Both are still working well after 5 years, same battery too. Please note I do take both my fence and charger in during the winter and I have disconnected the bottom most shocking line so as to lower drag on the fence charger when the weeds grow in.
Your garden bed looks to consist mainly of bark mulch... perhaps thats just the top layer? Even your roots don't seem to have any soil on them, if the roots aren't getting into contact with the soil and are only in bark mulch, then they won't be able to pull enough nutrients from the bark mulch.