Mario Lazetti wrote:@Brian White.
I wanted to take the time to say thank you for all the information you freely share on your research. In the past month I have come across your comments and videos for 3 unrelated topics and you helped me understand each one better. Cheers
Thanks, you are welcome. I'd love to go back into this stuff, but you really have to fight so hard to get people to try it. 2 groups researched the pulser pump (Trompe powering an airlift pump) in colleges (in Canada and in England). Both made models smaller than what I made and both screwed up. If you don't size your airlift pipes so that you have "plug flow" you will get crap efficiency. If you don't use a constriction, (I just used the hole in a bead to even out the flow of air from the trompe to the airlift pump), you will also get crap efficiency. The second group used 1 trompe to power 2 airlift pumps. I advised them and helped them size the trompe and the airlift pumps and told them to use 2 adjustable air valves (the ones for getting the air flow right for the airstones in fish aquariums) between the trompe and the 2 airlift pumps. They dispensed with the air valves because they didn't understand why they were needed!!! and they got and reported efficiencies of about 1%. So, I got "peer review" but it was sabotaged by stupidity. When you don't use valves, all the air goes to one airlift pump and you get annular flow in that one and hardly any pumping! And no air going to the second airlift pump at all. Its kind of like having a short circuit in an electrical system. I'm sure trompes have a place in the world but the only way to have people understand them is to have a working trompe made of see through material in an alternative energy demonstration. It doesn't need to be very big. a meter deep, 300 liters per minute of water through it, and a head of half a meter will work just fine and can run a few rows of NFT greenhouse tomatoes or something like that. All with no moving parts. I have used mini airlift pumps for about 5 years in my garden to recirculate water in planters. It works well but nobody else tries it. I have even made compost tea "breweries where the airlift circulates water through the compost to rot it way quicker and make huge amounts of compost tea. Very little interest. I don't know why.
I made a boat planter and I used a cement sand clay mix to waterproof it. so that the bottom of the planter holds water for the plants. It took a few years to find a cement sand clay mix that did the job, so I like that you give a mix with lime in it. because any hairline cracks might seal themselves due to lime dissolving in the slowly leaking water webpage
Erik Rowberg wrote:
Phil Stevens wrote:Hi Erik - I've been working with different lime plaster variants but haven't tried adding clay to the mix. What sort of proportions do you use, and have you added pozzolans of any sort? It looks fantastic in the photos. How often do you limewash it?
Back in the 80's when I lived in Ireland we had a wood burning stove going up a masonry chimney. I pumped air down through a 1 inch steel pipe that I put down the chimney and it connected to another pipe that came out an unused hotplate and into the room. I think it was probably 6 to 10 liters per minute of very low pressure air. (I used the air from a trompe in a stream. It was probably about 1 or 2 psi (not more). It was remarkable how long it kept the room warm after the fire went out. (It stole heat from the chimney and put it into the living room). A marine 200 air pump is probably too small to do this (only 3 liters per minute) but one of the larger pumps, probably 7 or 11 liters per minute would perhaps do the trick. My chimney went in horizontally and then straight up, so I had a maybe 2 ft piece of the 1 inch at the bottom going horizontally with a short right angle bend on it and the one from the roof attached onto it. It worked great but the air from the stream was smelly. If you had one of those aquarium air pumps in your attic or maybe in the living room if it isn't too noisy, That sent air up to the top of the chimney you could have it come on when the wood stove got hot, and then turn off when the chimney had finally given out all its waste heat. I don't recall the heat of the stream of warmed air but something in the region of 70 to 90 centigrade was probably the range. I might still have pictures and numbers. But it wasn't a proper experiment. I was stupider then, didn't think to use an aquarium air pump to run the heat thief. Brian
Why not a small gravitational vortex in a rain barrel? It is way simpler than a waterwheel. you only need 2 to 4 vanes on the shaft to harness the power. The original viking and Roman water wheels were horizontal and nobody really knows how efficient they were. Some may have had a bit of a vortex going. I thought permaculture was partly about reducing complexity in power systems. If so, the vortex is a far simpler system than a waterwheel.
You need half a meter of head or more for any reasonable trompe system. I ran something on 8 inches of head at one stage but that is just a waste of time. I have no idea where Bruce Leavitt got the idea that it needs 4 ft of head to run a trompe. And in his video, he has way over complicated air en training into a 4 inch down pipe. A half inch pipe down the middle of the 4 inch pipe that goes about 6 inches down at the entry is all that you want or need. Here is the largest pulser pump that I made. (pictures) pulser pump pictures
Ty Morrison wrote:Brian:
You are on to something there...but that still needs measurable head pressure that is sure to get noticed on a flat ditch. Could it be submerged in a total depth of 1/2 meter with siphon outflow at the base? I think i could do a divot in the stream bottom that would not get noticed...hmmm
I'm not sure there is a way out of the storage issue. Ponds, I guess. There is another alternative "pump" that I think has super potential for low head sites. I would bet that a gravitational vortex could be made in a rain barrel at a little dam and attached directly to a water pump or to a cam to make low pressure air. (I think probably up to 5 or 10 PSI but that is a bit of a guess) Gravitational vortex is something that is very simple yet nobody tries it. Everyone loves ram pumps, and they have great efficiency but they are strictly for medium head / low volume power sources. The available sources for energy (world wide) are mostly medium to low head and high volume). I made a mini gravitational vortex to demonstrate its unusual behavior a few years back. One beautiful thing is that if you remove the power draw, the vortex gets higher. (It stores some energy within the chamber). If people made them and tried to use them to pump water and to compress air on the 300 to 600 liters per minute and half to one meter head range, we could have some data and new ideas. I find the gravitational vortex very interesting. (the solar panel stuff is probably not so relevant in the video).
Ty Morrison wrote:Brian Whites design is interesting and relevant to this discussion thread. In fact I am still surprised.
I am really surprised at the dearth of info on pumps on Permies. Aside from getting water with your property, how to move it seems to be the next big thing that we deal with in design. Not everyone will be so fortunate as to have a site on a slope from top to bottom with enough 'head' to make a RAM pump work. So what's left? Grid driven electric? Fuel driven electric? Solar driven electric? Hand power? Gravity?
What I have discovered is that a RAM pump is pretty cool, but takes at least 18 inches of head pressure to run, And then, very slowly. This means that a storage tank or basin will be required in addition to 'head' Or you will need to use a water wheel of some sort. In Boise there is a lifting wheel design on display that was used years ago before electricity. Nothing else?
Windmills, manual or electric? This means storage too.
Screws, Siphon, Sprials...the Rife River Pump (no successful copies by DIY yet. No testimony by Permies on these either! Still storage issue.
I guess this is one of those places where electricity driven pumps is the most AT?
That is a good contribution, Joseph! Barbara's are in the ground and these ones of mine are in a pot and they are the first to grow, but I do have other tubers that are still alive in the ground. Some rotted earlier in the year and the woodlice seem to be the main enemy. . I have had over wintering runner beans come back in Ireland in the ground, and here too, but never had any meaningful production from them. But I have seen barbs and they were still producing lots in late september, while now they already have baby beans on them! I would love to know what the trigger is for them to start growing again. Maybe heat or longer days, I don't know.
Joseph Lofthouse wrote:
I don't have anything to contribute to the discussion about overwintering runner bean tubers. However, something growing in a pot has radically different growing conditions than something growing in the ground.
I grow "stringless" runner bean varieties. I love the productivity of these little beasts. If you keep the plant watered and you keep picking pods before the beans get big inside you can get months of production. Both in Ireland and in Canada, some of the runner bean "tubers" overwinter. But the success rate for me has been fairly low. I do now know why. Maybe only one in 5 survived the winter. Many tubers rotted or got devoured by woodlice. Why? Just up the road from me Barbara has beans from tubers that have already set flowers and have baby runner beans growing fast. Mine have just put up their first shoots. How are hers so much earlier? I have runner beans in flower from seed, I saw humming birds visit them today, but the other guys (from tuber) have barely moved. BUT there are 4 or 4 shoots coming from one tuber. Can we divide it to make 5 plants?
and here is the tuber , it only came out of hibernation last week but now it seems to be growing furiously. Anyone know how to wake them up much earlier, Like Barbara's beans?
No. The water does NOT still have its energy. The energy has been used to compress air, and has been used in turbulence and the usable head is reduced by the height of the air column en-trained. My working trompes predated the epa engineers trompes by a couple of decades and were published in an Irish magazine in about 1989 and in and English mag around 1995
Mr telsonian's tromp hammer is also uses energy as the pressure wave goes back up the pipe and compresses air at each stroke. That repeated high compression of bubbles is a recipe for high nitrogen in the exit water. (Fish can get "the bends" and die). If you really want to use a water ram to compress air, you are better off putting something on the ram itself to compress air at each stroke. They have a "snufter" so this should be relatively straightforward to redesign. But a ram cannot operate properly in a couple of ft of head. And areas with a couple of ft of head (with massive flow) abound. A couple of ft of head and massive flow cannot be used by a water ram.
Tom Robertson wrote:Micro to me is small installations
100 ft head from 4 inch pipe.
Imagine adding air entraing.
The plastic could not handle it but a concrete 'tank' could.
I think a heavy duty tank would let the air escape the water but the water should still have its energy
I no longer have access to the family farm so I can't experiment any more with free flowing water.
I'm all for old tech finding new uses.
A epa engineer is using the air to oxidize heavy metals.
Micro hydro is an inefficient tech. Its payback period is never. A 3 ft deep trompe in a 25 watt stream can pump water around greenhouses to keep things watered even though it is only producing 1 psi. There is pretty much no other way to use the water from a 300 liter per minute stream falling half a meter to generate useful power. I made a 2.5 meter deep trompe that pumped 11 to 15 liters per minute of air down to 3 psi. meaning that a i meter trompe would be making about 35 liters per minute of compressed air at 1 psi. 1 liter per minute will easily run a mini airlift pump, meaning that you could run 35 airlift pumps from that one trompe. If you "modify" a micro hydro system to entrain air you also make it more inefficient at producing electricity and lengthen the payback period to beyond never.
Tom Robertson wrote:With electricity, it becomes an inefficient tech.
But I can see it for back to the land movement
Any micro hydro instalation can be modified slightly to produce air pressure.
Just add air intraining
Put a tank next to the generator......
We need a little realism when doing trompes. Lots of mines used them in the past, they were used to build alpine tunnels. (Powering the air tools) but these days, nobody is going to dig a hundred ft deep hole for a trompe. or a 20 ft hole or a 40 ft hole. People have to think mostly low pressure trompes or they are not going to happen. I use low pressure air (1 psi) for lots of stuff round my garden. It is very easy to make a 1 or 2 psi trompe but after that, it gets seriously hard. If you want higher psi, why not a small gravitational vortex running a compressor instead? Technically easier than the trompe.
Tom Robertson wrote:There was a mine that used this to create compressed air for work in the mine.
The water was pumped down a 8 inch pipe that went to the bottom of the mine.
The pipe had numerous small pipes inserted at a 60 degree angle
This allowed air into the water.
A heavy concrete tank at the bottom allowed air out.
The pressure of the air equaled the water pressure.
Water is .404 psi.
So 40 psi at 100 ft
80 psi at 200
1000 ft is 400 psi.
Hi, I made the pulser pump. A pulser pump is a thrompe powering an airlift pump. I publicized it and it really only became accepted (even if very little used) when I asked other people to make their own models and post on youtube. This they did on 3 continents. There were 2 attempts at universities (based on what I did) to make and quantify trompes powering airlift. Both screwed up. I had no input to the first one (in Canada) and early input into the second one (England). The second one was the most disappointing because the guy used one trompe to power several airlift pipes (as I have done successfully) but he decided to leave out little taps that control the air speed to each airlift pipe. In this case, all the air goes into one airlift pipe and produces very low efficiency. If he had bothered to consult, I could have told him that his experimental setup had a huge error. Anyway, I will try to list some misconceptions and uses for trompes and And especially uses for mini trompes and mini airlift pumps.
First off, a psi is 27.7 inches of water. Your trompe has an inlet on top and an exit level of water where the water comes out. To get pressure in PSI you measure vertically down from the exit level to the top of the air chamber in inches and divide by 27.7 to get the psi. And that is it. You cannot increase that number. It is the best that you can do. I made a 3 psi trompe and it ran over 20 years. I hooked it up directly and indirectly to airlift pumps to send water from a stream to cattle and sheep in houses.
However, it is a big deal building a 3 psi trompe. My stream had 300 liters per minute of water falling half a meter at a little dam. Watts is gravity by kg per second by height in meters. S0 300/60 multiplied by 0.5 multiplied by 10 = 25 watts. That is all I had for power and that does not justify digging 15 ft deep. I found out in experiment that the trompe section was maximum 33% efficient at making compressed air at this depth. So you are down to 8 watts now! and then this air for powering airlift has a max efficiency of about 33% too and this brings it down again (you always combine efficiencies in a chain) so now we are at less than 3 useful watts!
HOWEVER, at one stage my pulser pump video was the most popular airlift pump video on youtube and it helped spawn "mini airlift pumps for horticulture and hydoponics" Airlift pumping is interesting because the physics as applied to small tubes is completely different than the physics of big airlift pumps. I learned this with my pulser pump but it was very very hard to spread the knowledge. Essentially, small tube airlift works best with "plug flow" to pump water while large scale in big pipes uses the lower density (and higher column height) of bubbly water to pump water. The physics is completely different. So I have worked on testing for things that only need 1 or 2 psi. So bottom line, you can easily pump water 6 ft high with 1 psi of pressure. And you can use one trompe to power several airlift pumps. This is very useful because cycling water around planters or compost tea massively speeds up chemical and biochemical reactions. I now live in a city and I use mini air pumps powered by electricity to run the "pneumatic grid" that moves water in my greenhouse, in my planters and running a compost tea brewery. It is always less than 1 psi. and has ran about 6 airlift tubes in different locations on about 7 liters per minute of air. I will put a youtube video of the pulser pump.
but note that I have many videos about mini airlift and mini trompes too. Brian White
Michael Cox wrote:Hi Brian, That is fascinating and could be just what we need for our pond. We have an ornamental pond with fountain and gold fish. It is in full sun an is perpetually green. I don't have an option for pumping water to a separate tank for water fleas, but I'm wondering if I can make them a safe habitat in the pond where the fish cannot access.
I have thought about that too. This was my first attempt, so it is just a fluke that it worked. There are a few options, one would be a container in the fishpond. perhaps you just need some sort of glass jar with mesh at top to stop the fish getting in? They sell mesh "curtains" at the pet store. I catch my fleas in a fine fish net that I bought at the pet store for about $3 so that mesh might work for the top 1/3 of your jar or 1 gallon bucket waterflea filter,, This one might even work unpowered, because the waterfleas swimming will make a bit of circulation. Or maybe, you can float a bucket in the pond? I think a 2 gallon bucket might work, somehow floating, top up. And I think you might need a throughput of water, top in and top out so that the baby fleas can survive and they do not all get sent out to be fish food. Great if you kept people posted on how it works. At the pet store here, people were clueless about what waterfleas even are. In the past they were a fairly major fish food. Small to medium ponds in boggy spots are often full of waterfleas. And maybe local is best anyway. I got mine about 3 miles up the road in a pond.
Hi, Miles. I got them in a local pond. I had to search a bit before I found them. Sometimes they will be on one side of the pond and not the other. I got some sort of tiny water snail too. (I didn't want anything except the waterfleas and a couple of shrimp but I guess the fish will eat pretty much anything that drops over the overflow. (I have not seen the shrimp since) but I divided everything between several pools so I think some of them made it in a little tub elsewhere. Brian
I made a swirl pool above my goldfish pond (to settle out the bigger stuff) and threw in a few waterfleas. 3 weeks later they have bred up, thousands of them! and they have turned the green water in the fish pond clear. I can see the goldfish again! I tried all sorts of things to get clear water before this and nothing worked. AND if a waterflea swims too high, she gets washed away into the waiting mouth of a fish. So my filter also feeds the fish. It is pretty cool and I'm just sharing so other people can try it.
Hi, I went on a garden tour and saw a lady brewing compost tea and I just thought "what a chore!". It could and maybe should be a lot easier. So my compost bin has a collection area under so that the juice gets collected. I use an airlift pump in a bucket to pump the compost tea back up so that it drips through the compost again and again. So hopefully the compost rots faster and the tea is stronger too. Check it out. I have only used it a couple of weeks and I already see a difference in my plants. Brian.
Aquaponics is a closed water cycle usually through inert material to grow plants and fish, Hydroponics is a closed water cycle (usually with chemicals and intert material) to grow plants. Soiloponics is a closed water cycle with soil. This type of thing seems not to have been tried much. I have been doing closed loop with soil for almost 2 years and I feel that a lot of the benefit that people talk about in the other systems is not anything particularly good about the aqua or hydro "ponics" but rather, it comes from the oxygenation of the roots and the moving of nutrients to and heat to and waste products away from the roots. CIRCULATION is the key! In most soils it is a bit dormant. There is no circulation so everything is comatose. (Like a person if their blood circulation stopped) but add a drip of water and things change. It becomes very different. Things speed up. I have been testing "pallet gardens" with a gentle dripping water circulation for a couple of years now. One big surprise is how little water it is using. I think water all day makes it cooler so it does not evaporate water away so quickly? My reservoir size is about 5 gallons usually and that is for about 16 sq ft of garden box. So I have tested this for 2 years and the main problem has been to spread the water across a decent size area, I did it in 2 ways, a "delta" and a "flip flop". Here is the ebb and flow version being tested
That one is like sub irrigated except that you can pump air into a chamber under the planter and the air "pumps" water out of the chamber and up into the soil. First time I did it there were no plants in and I killed a bunch of slugs and millipedes by drowning them! Might be the way to deal with root aphids too! Anyways, I have a playlist about the pallet gardens too. I will see if there is any response. Brian
Flax to linen Victoria is still alive and well, they have a blog at http://flaxtolinenvictoriabc.blogspot.ca/ I have continued to do fiber research but it has been very slow, azolla (which isn't a fiber plant may be useful as a peat replacement. You can find nettle, blackberry and broom fiber information on https://www.facebook.com/groups/312466712172431/ in the old messages. Some people in this area are using young soft blackberry shoots as asparagus substitute while others are trying to rett the old blackberry and use the fiber. Brian
You can probably find low pressure pneumatic systems described on the web. But the pressure they use are much higher than the one I use. Mine only uses 1 or 2 psi of pressure. My aquarium bubble pumps are rated at about 4 and 5 watts and they produce 1 and 2 liters per minute of air. In fact I only need 22 inches of water pressure to run my set up. The air is produced in a shed and sent in 3/8 inch irrigation tubing to my "pallet gardens". There it uses an "airlift pump" to send water continuously from a bucket up to my plants and back to the bucket. I have 9 pallet gardens. I have experiments going on that show that this system can also work ebb and flow hydroponics and aquaponics and also experiments that show that it can capture heat and transfer and store it. How can it link low wattage sources? Well, imagine a little stream of water. half a meter head 15 inches and only about 300 litres per minute flow. Not much use for anything! But if you send that water a meter down through a 4 inch drain pipe at the little 15 inch dam, it brings air down with it. 15 liters per minute or more of air! See my pulser pump for details. That's 5 times what my bubble pump system produces! My airlift pumps are just tubes joined together. No electrical system can compare with this simplicity. Check out the pneumatic grid idea at webpage I have used the pneumatic grid for over a year now. I have worked out kinks and improved the process in that time
I started with a really complicated system using a "waterclock" and really complicated rain refill method ( that worked) but it probably scared people. Someone suggested just use a float and I tried it. Works great! You can get a week from a rain barrel (probably more), Here is the instructable http://www.instructables.com/id/The-AMAZING-TCMTECH-dripper-irrigation-for-rainbar/ and I will try a few pics here to show how simple it is. shows the whole idea and this shows the float I used successfully. It is just a glass pot top with the handle removed. (It is on the float in the image. Water comes in the steam outlet (I have slowed it down with grass stems) and goes down the tube in the middle.
It works super. Anyone else want to try? I have videos about it in a playlist at https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLkzXlmAwZTZdjGtjJpCYm2gSGVGwA033M&feature=view_all It would be really great if people tried this right away. Too many times people sit on their hands and wait for someone else. Please try it and report your findings.
Is that included in the free version of sketchup? Sketchup is unavailable to me currently because I use linux. If it isn't in the free version, the pro version is $495 and it is called Trimble sketchup now. (Google sold it). Thanks
Victor Johanson wrote:
Brian White wrote: Also, the art of illusion people do have a decent "sun engine" right now. I have not used it myself but apparently, you can just draw up your lot or scene or garden or greenhouse in the program, and add the sun at different times of the year and see how it shines and where the shadows go.
Google Sketchup can also render shadows based on geographical location. I was able to obtain high resolution LIDAR data files including our property, and convert them to the Sketchup format. Now I'll be able to model various potential layouts and see how the shadows fall on any given day of the year. In particular, I hope to position sunscald prone fruit trees so that they are shaded in late winter/early spring, but get full exposure in summer.
http://higheredbcs.wiley.com/legacy/college/strahler/0471417416/animations/ch02/animation3.htm is really good for explaining how the sun's path changes during the year.
And the more I look at things like that, the more I think that putting a lean to greenhouse on the south side of a building is daft!
Also, the art of illusion people do have a decent "sun engine" right now. I have not used it myself but apparently, you can just draw up your lot or scene or garden or greenhouse in the program, and add the sun at different times of the year and see how it shines and where the shadows go. (Art of illusion is animation and modelling software and it is the only one that i ever got to work.)
It is against a fence. Normally when someone builds a greenhouse against a fence, it is lean to. (The glass slopes up to the top of the fence). (and you can check google images of lean to greenhouses. They are ALL like that!.) But mine has the glass rising up from the fence to a higher line. BUT even though it is quite a simple change it is very different. It is on the south side of the fence but unlike a lean to, it catches sunlight from the north side of the fence easily. I have several diagrams and drawings on the instructable to explain that. Note that in summer in the northern hemisphere between the tropics and the arctic circle,less than 12 hours of sunlight per day comes from the southern part of the sky That means that the rest of the sunlight comes from the north east and north west. My greenhouse uses that light well while a normal lean to uses it really badly. And it may be low to the horizon but it is still light. About 6 hours of direct sunlight at my latitude every day comes from the northern sector right now! That is not to be sneezed at. So, why do people put summer use lean to greenhouses on the south of houses? The house blocks all the incoming light from the north! Come on folks, do we all have to use the Homer Simpson method?
I have had people in other forums getting mad at me and calling me an idiot for suggesting that the sun rises in the north east (in norther summer). (Get up early tomorrow and check before writing a smart assed answer). People got really mad when I told them that my model shows less than 12 hours of daily sunlight comes from the south in a northern summer. And don't get mad. A guy used an astronomy program and confirmed it. (For Nottingham England in Late june, it was 10.5 hours in the southern half of the sky and 7 HOURS in the northern half!) There is a diagram of the site, with rain barrel to the left, gutters behind, etc that might be helpful to you. It is on first or second page. Some pages have several pictures. (Just how instructables to things) and sometimes if you click on a picture, different things are explained.
gani et se wrote:Brian, I went and looked at your instructables page, but there's no picture there of the whole greenhouse, so I can't really figure out what it ended up looking like. Does lean-away just mean it's freestanding? If not, is it on the south side of the building it's leaning away from? Again a picture with a wider view would be helpful.
Hi Brenda, it is first time greenhouse for me. I have planted mostly in the soil. It is a kinda lean to so I have shelves with pots on the backwall, a small raised bed there and another one at the front. so far i water by hand but later I am going to get a "windofarm" hydroponic plant thing going too. I am pretty surprised at how fast it gets plants moving. It is really only a month old and already I planted out 3 ft tall runner beans that I started in it . There are 5 tomato plants (all different types) and a couple of peppers and some basil. All sorts of things are being sown from seed in it and transplanted out. I have the planters with soil because hopefully that means less watering than pots.
Brenda Groth wrote:are you planting in the soil under it, or in pots? How are you watereing yours.
I have a soaker hose in my greenhouse and I'm planting in the soil itself rather than in pots..it is small and gets crowded but it works out well for me. I add mulch and ammendments when they are avail.
Thousands of google images show lean to greenhouses. I didn't see them before building mine. The "perfect place" in my back garden is near a neighbour fence that runs east west. I got 5 huge sheets of 6 ft high free glass and I was determined to use them. the fence is already about 6 ft high and by the time I put the glass up on blocks to prevent termites and wood rot, it was 8 ft high. I couldn't lean it against the fence because when framed in it was too heavy for me to lean on my own. so I sloped the roof back towards the fence and put the gutter on the back. Anyway, it leans back instead of forward. And guess what? It catches way more summer light than if I made a typical lean to. for starters the roof is at a super angle to let morning and evening light through. Lets about 50% more of the light through than a lean to in the evening! Because the light strikes it at a better angle. Also the front glass reflects this light so that at about 8 pm significant amounts of light hit the north east corner of the thing! Bouncing off the front glass on the inside! Here is a video of the light effect. Lean-away greenhouse cool light bounces! Anyway, I started a thread about it on the CH4 engineering site and a guy there showed me a graph that applies to the light in my greenhouse. After making mine, I finally saw the google images. Amazing that there is no lean-away greenhouses among them!
I am part of a flax to linen project in Victoria bc. (Next sat or sunday there is a flax to linen workshop demo at Saanich historical society.) Anyway, I learned recently that Italians have used Broom for fibre for thousands of years. Linen is retted just by rotting the plant either on the ground with dew or in ponds or in sealed vats. This does not work for nettles! (It rots the fibres). Broom is retted with hot potash.
I have not seen the spinning and weaving section of how to do linen yet . I wonder if we could do "low end" too with the fibre? Like hanging baskets? We tried powerwashing flax to get out the fibres last weekend! It does work, cleans them really well! But it also tangles them up. BOO HOO!
Perhaps a powerwasher would work then to make something like the fibre nets for hanging baskets? Just make a mold from wire mesh and blast the crap out of the fibre in the mold. Basket shape DONE! I think it is mad to be transporting coconut fibres halfway around the world just to hang flowers in.
I made the pulser pump over 20 years ago and it went into wikipedia about a year ago. People have not been interested in making one because you need to dig a 2 or 3 meter hole beside a stream or river and no prior figures are available to help them see what output might be. Eileen on youtube suggested that I try to make a "nano" version instead with small bore plastic tubing and that maybe people would be more interested if the digging component was reduced or eliminated. I couldn't make a nano because I no longer live by a stream but I could test other parts of the nano. So I did a mini airlift pump with about 1 psi or less of air pressure pumping water. (So an airlift pump with about 2.5 ft submergence. Surprisingly it worked pretty good! First attempt I pumped to 13 ft. Of course that is just one component but the result is hopeful. The pulser pump nano model only needs a 3 ft deep pool and a pipe 3.5 inch dia or 4 inch dia dilivering water down close to the bottom of the pool. Air from the pool would then be piped to a bundle of tubes to produce meaningful amounts of water pumping. This pump would have no moving parts of course and could be stacked in series to get greater height. The highest I have pumped with it is 18 ft with 2.5 ft submergence. I don't know how high it can go if really pushed but probably not going so high and pumping in series is the way to go. I think it has potential for pumping water from deep wells in poor places too.
Video is at Pulser pump Nano If you have a stream with a pool in it or if you have a swimming pool and sump pump, you could probably set up a pulser pump nano experiment in a day or less.
And it would be a world's first! The video is a whole year old now and nobody has done it yet. (Don't know why!)
My original pulser pump video has nearly 680,000 views. If you make a nano and lots of people can copy your work, 680,000 views would be chickenfeed!
People are slow to take up new technology but both the vortex and the reverse Archimedes screw have enough history now for people to jump in and still be a pioneer.
I personally think the vortex power plant is awesome because the fish can migrate up and downstream THROUGH THE POWER PLANT!
I have had contact with the vortex inventor for about a year so if anyone needs an introduction or translation help let me know. English is not his first language but now much of the info is in english too. Even 6 months ago that was not the case.
Hi, Paul, It can work with a foot of head but 1 and a half ft is better. I also used to think that it needs to go about 6 ft deep to get enough pressure for the air but now I think 3 ft deep will work. You just need a bundle of 1/4 inch tubes to pump the water up if you do the 3 ft deeep thing. I am calling the tiny version pulser pump nano. If anyone has a stream and wants to try, I would be happy to make suggestions. If someone did it soon, and did a video response to mine, or to my original pulser pump video, I would be really happy. The pulser pump was nominated in a big competition in Austria (the ars electronica next idea competition) so if something happened before the judging takes place, it helps vindicate this whole open method of development and might even help get a high place in the competition. And if someone is quick, they can put the first video in the world of a working pulser pump nano on the internet! That is something that nobody can take away from you. Ever! Thanks Brian
paul wheaton wrote: Does it need more than a foot or two of head?
how does the air get into the water that is going down? Is it nothing more than dissolved oxygen?
I made a new video. A friend suggested a "pulser pump Nano" which would use a smaller tromp section and smaller airlift pipes (like they use in the windowfarms project). You would probably have to bundle the small pipes together to get useful pumping. I do not live by a stream anymore but there is nothing stopping me testing the airlift portion of the pumping. Here is the result powered by a small aquarium air pump, with 22 inches of submergence and pumping to 13 ft high. I don't know the limits but clearly it has no problem going to 13 ft http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KUqrBzO39xY
From Understanging solar concentrators "The theoretical annual efficiency of the three principal concentrating collectors utilized in the United States is 80 percent for the dish, 60 percent for the central receiver, and 43 percent for the parabolic trough on an annual basis." 80% as opposed to 43% is a huge difference and I think it is worth the effort. Greater temperature is also possible with the dish.
I have a solar concentrator idea that I am pretty sure will work. (An astronomer has ok'ed the equatorial mount idea). Anyway, parabolic dishes have problems and this first one is a huge one. When you move the dish, you have to move the target too because the dish has to point straight at the sun and straight at the target. And when you make a really big powerful parabolic dish, you cannot get to the darn target without setting yourself on fire! And tracking is a nightmare because the sun (even though its motion is regular) traces a path that moves a little up and down in the sky every day. So my solution is to cut the dish in half, and then mount the 2 halves on a frame that is lined up with a line through the north and south pole. Then tracking is a lot easier. Just rotate the thing slowly. And seasonal adjustment is done every night or morning. So, I have not made this yet and hopefully someone else will make it first. It is a free idea. Here is a video of the idea (set up for near the equator) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S3MbVqExTOQ And here is a video of a model set up to show how it would work in different places on Earth. (From about 50 degrees north to about 50 degrees south) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j7pm-o3rPRU And here is one to show how it would do Fresnel lens mount http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E21yqyp6xTE Thanks Brian
Dianne Keast wrote: So it seems mason bees do not make honey.
No, I don't think so. I guess they get pollen and nectar and make a big gob of goop with it. Its a good question actually. I wonder how they process their food so that it keeps or do the babies start growing at once and then rest dormant until spring? There might not be any research on this if there is not commercial benefits.
I did explore the separation of pumping water and pumped water with the pulser pump. It has advantages but it is a bit hard to explain without muddying the concept.
There are a couple of reasons for not going deep. One, it is hard work and a bit dangerous too! Second one is that if you go deep, nitrogen supersaturates the exit water and (This is true!) fish can get the bends from water that is supersaturated with nitrogen. Nobody ever told me where the borderline is for danger to fish so I just play it safe. I only went 10 ft which is plenty deep enough. Now, the main difference between pulser pumps and airlift pumps is plug flow and slug flow. Plug and slug flow is how the pulser pump moves the water. (kinda like "waves" in a pipe). I could go into detail but the physics of 2 phase flow is really complicated. (One of the reasons that scientists stay away from it). Airlift pumps make a column of bubbly water and the bubbles lower its specific gravity and the column gets higher in relation to water that does not have bubbles in it. So it is a very different thing. Plug flow works under a fairly wide range of air speeds so you just have to size your pipes right and it will work. If a pulser pump had to do the bubbly water thing, it might only lift the water 2 or 3 ft. Figures are printed in old engineering books that basically say you need great "submergance" but they never tested anything with very slow air movement like the pulser pump.
I think the monk might work great with low pressure tromps. You can just send the air back up to the pond to aerate it and to "stir" the water. My youtube name is gaiatechnician and if you find gaiatechnician's channel you can find the dual dish stuff and pulser pump stuff on video. The dual dish should work great near the equator but as you go north and south, you might be better served with one dish and a counter rotating counterweight. (I have also done a bunch of low tech trackers for it. I call them dripper trackers and they are on solarcooking.org on their tracker page. All of my stuff is community commons licensed and I am not great at making stuff so it is on hold until someone with good brain hand co ordination comes along and takes it further. The liquid piston tracker will probably be built at UVIC University of Victoria in the fall or winter by students as part of a course. Basically the paid research community only do work on stuff that the funding committees give money towards. Low tech solar and water power is useful to really poor people but they are way way way down on the priority lists of the funding committees. I am not exactly happy with solarcooking.org either. They get something like $800 000 per year in donations and grants and do not seem to spend a cent on research and development. So, the dual dish awaits independent testing (forever) as does the dripper trackers, and the solar design t-square and clam shaped solar cookers. Clam shaped solar cookers might be (probably are) a better alternative to cookits for Haiti and Dafur but if they are too lazy to test and compare, nobody will ever find out! Even the "mechanical mathematician" which is really bluddy simple has not been tested. (It is for making clay molds for parabolic dishes with extremely simple tools). Anyways, enough with the rant. Brian
The first cob blocks stayed on the wall where i left them to dry. (Because the bees found them before I decided where I would put them). I can move them in October. I made a little shelf on a wood fence facing westish for the one with little stems in it. I need to be thinking beforehand. Next one, I plan to incorporate some sort of thick wire. with a good bend at the bottom and a hook or loop of wire at the top. Then when the cob dries, I can just hang it anywhere. Brian
I have started something similar to the teazel stems for the solitary bees. I make cob blocks and put in metal bars (from bike spoke size to 3/4 inch diameter. anything including knitting needles. An couple of days later I remove the bars. You find that there are many types of bees and that they use the blocks for shelter and for brood. The next stage was to put stems in. I went for raspberry canes, weed stems and dill, grape vines etc. I found that they work much better in sunny locations. http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=246092&id=736625766&l=26546198d6 and http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PkFjcoqI1gU The main reasons for using cob and stems is variety of sizes (and the bees probably prefer the stems) and easy to do. There are about 90 holes in the bee block with stems. Imagine drilling 90 holes in wood. There are probably 4 types of bees nesting in my cob bee block right now! The block with stems was started only a few days ago so they will probably start using that in a week or so. I am hoping for a few leafcutters too. I think we focus a little much on the orchard masons. We need to provide homes for the whole succession of bees from spring to fall! I did not even know there was a succession of bee types until I made the cob blocks! Brian