I wanted to make sure it was the real deal before I posted a response. I have had three does successfully bred since adding apple cider vinegar to there diet. It worked immediately. I have staggered the breeding about two weeks apart and it has been amazing, even with a first time breeder. Thanks for the help.
I have a 6.5 gallon tank, not water bottles that water all the rabbits in line, but I can figure something out to get the apple cider vinegar in them. It is an easy enough suggestion to try. I will give it a go in the next couple of days and report back. I have been putting the male in every 3 hours for days with no success.
I must be the worst rabbit breeder in the world. It started off well, but now no matter what time of day, moon cycle, more or less food, no success. I will place one of the female Florida Whites in his cage, and he will give it 10 good seconds while she is in the corner and could not possibly mount her anyway, and that is it. If I try to reposition her or him he just sits in the corner. I checked his penis and it seems fine, I am at a loss. Anyone have any suggestions? He is a two year old male that has bred successfully for a year for me. I have three does of breeding age, none of which will lift there hind quarters for him in the short time he is interested. I keep a close watch on their weight and fat around the neck, they appear to be in good physical condition. There are full spectrum lights on a 14 hour timer in the shed. Breeding like rabbits does not apply to me anymore.
I am about to create a second level to my rabbitry and am wondering what you used as the angled, umm.. turd shield I'll call it? Fiberglass roofing panel.
What is the blue stuff on the top level? Is the top level 3 separate cages? Males? The blue stuff is plexglass that acts as a piss shield, etc. The top is and bottom are three separate cages, males on bottom.
Also, what did you use to get the water from the PEX to the rabbits, some sort of emitter? The bottling bucket gravity feeds the water.
Mag drive pump. I will research this. This is the info I really wanted because I want to be able to control the flow. Thank you for the info.
The average low temperature in Jan is 4.3 degrees F, but it can get to -40 degrees F. I have got it set up so I have the kids and I feed the rabbits everyday at 6 and that takes at the most five minutes. I would like to keep the 6 gallon or above approve to reduce any unnecessary labor or time commitment.
I currently have an aquarium heater in a 6 gallon bucket that gravity feeds water through 1/2 pex with heater cable wrapped around it. It will probably work fine to about 10 degrees, but not below that. I am thinking about placing the 6 gallon bucket or larger container on a piece of foam insulation on the ground and having a 250 gallon an hour pump the water up (4 feet) and gravity feed back into the heated water container. Does this sound like a good idea? Can I install a gate valve to control flow? Any feedback would be helpful.
I would not be so worried if this was her first litter, but this is at least a two year old doe who I payed a considerable amount for because she was supposed to be a great breeder. The younger doe kindled two nights ago and had three live kits. Not very big litters, but they look healthy. I will not be breeding in July again.
I am raising Florida Whites. I spoke with the breeder and he suggested not breeding them in the summer. I just assumed with the posts I was reading from Texas that if they can I could, but I guess not. It has been wonderful for my two young daughters to be involved with feeding and watering. Hopefully the other young doe will kindle but if not I am waiting till the temperatures come down to try again.
One of my two does was due to kindle tonight. I was pretty exited because she had pulled a lot of fur of this morning so I though this was a sure sign that she was pregnant. My wife called me at 4 this afternoon when she went to turn the fan on in the shed and found 4 dead kits in the corner of the cage, out of the nesting box, but in her fur. It was not the best start, but I gave her the best pellets I could find, clean water, shade, and fresh air, so I am guessing it was the heat. It has been 85 to 90 with 80% humidity. Hopefully the younger doe will fair better in two nights when she is due.
I could not find any full spectrum t-8 lights at the hardware store, and the guy told me to just use two different shades of t-8. He said that this is all a full spectrum lamp is. Just wondering if any one else does this, it sure is cheaper. Using them for rabbits if it matters.
Thanks for all the advise. I will open the soil enough to plant the seeds then cover with a thin layer of mature compost. At the end of the year I will cover the beds in compost and mulch over that in preparation for spring planting.
I am new at not tilling soil. I have had my raised beds covered with leaf mulch all winter and I am getting ready to plant my spring crops. Do I remove the mulch and just sprinkle the compost on top? Or do you do it in the fall and cover with mulch so you just remove the mulch in the spring and plant?
SILVERSEEDS wrote: im also going to try to find a non electric way to keep their tanks from freezing in winter. So any ideas on how to keep 60 gallon drums from freezing in winter would be great.
How many 60 gallon tanks do you have? If you get close to 250 gallons I think a solar greenhouse would work well. In a solar greenhouse in Pennsylvania at -20F outside it retained 34F inside with no heat other than the sun. I am building one in Minnesota in about a month.
Had the power company come out because I had a couple branches that were resting on the power lines. He looked at the tree and agreed to cut it down, no charge. I don't know why they would not before, but I am not complaining, and I am glad I don't have to deal with it.
I am building a shed right below this pine tree and a solar greenhouse north of it, thus the need to thin out the foliage. I trimmed enough to allow the sun for the greenhouse, but I am wondering if the tree will live with this small amount of branches? I would like to keep it, but if I have killed it will be easier to remove now, rather than when the shed is built. Any rule of thumb on 1/3, 1/4 of branched left on tree for it to likely live?
Does anyone know if you can use Lexan in a solar greenhouse? I can't find definitive information on whether the uv spectrum the Lexan blocks is necessary for heating. It appears to be fine for plants, but I want the uv rays to passively warm a heat sink, like water or rock.
About two more weeks till I can dig the footings for the shed that will house my Florida White Rabbits. I recently purchased two 55 gallon steel drums for a rocket mass heater under the shed and noticed the guy selling them had food grade 250 gallon tanks. This got me thinking of adding an aquaponics system in the shed with the rabbits. Heating would be a concern, but I think could be overcome with aquarium heaters and the rocket mass heater under the shed. Lighting would either be led or full spectrum fluorescent lights. My main concern is the condensation/humidity in the summer and the evaporation in the winter. What your thoughts. I don't think I can build a separate green house structure, because I will already have one accessory building.
Jami McBride wrote: Yup, the tone is very important here at Permies
John - sounds like you've got it all planned out, but I would add that should your set up start stinking - laws or not you will get a visit from animal control (called in by your pool neighbors no doubt). So the more manure processing the better with any system. When your adding water the splash over can turn the ground sour (stink) to fix this use lime on the soil to balance out the PH.
And I echo chickencoopguy about the cage size.
All the best with your project!
My intention is that no one will even no they are there. I will have a 3/4 inch OSB sub floor so I can't let any urine or water really touch the floor. I was assuming with the 3 inch pvc and a bucket rather than a hose, it should be pretty easy to control. Am I assuming to much? It is much easier on paper than in real life I am sure. I am re-considering building a box like in Bennet's book or like I see on you tube videos, and maintaining it with lime, but it just seems like odor would be completely controlled by flushing the system everyday. Odor is my main concern, besides that no one should think anything other than a storage shed.
Sounds like quite the build I am assuming that you are building so stout to protect from the disagreeable winters you have in your region. That and for resale if I move I want a very useful shed.
I've seen the PVC waste removal system and have used it as well in the past but as with all things there are weak points to it. Namely bunny turds can clump from time to time and when washing out you can get overflows occasionally from the pvc system. Most of the time the clumping occurs not as a point of the manure itself but rather the amount of shed hair that lands on the base plate. Hence the reason I do the grey tarp sluice system now.
Great point, when he told me about it it sounded great, but I could see it easily clogging.
As to your thinking about the RMH for the bunny shed. Sounds like a nice thing indeed however in the winter months I fallow out my bunnies and do hutch share so they can cuddle each other for warmth but again your winters can be pretty severe and as I always err on the side of caution the RMH sounds great. Plus the early starting shed for seedlings would just be an added bonus. A note on space. Technically Richard is correct in the dimensions he gave you. However let me put this bug in your ear. If you were a rabbit and you had a choice would you rather be in a 3 ft. square cage or the stated 2x2x14 one?
I would not make it for 48 hours in a 10x10 cage. I don't want to be cruel, I can only go with what others tell me is sufficient, but your point is well taken. Also a wire cage sounds cruel, but as Bennet mentions these rabbits are bred for captivity and there fury feet protect them. I might as you suggest want to crossbreed at some point with New Zealands and I would need the bigger cage any way, so good point.
I like to let my kids stretch and get exercise and personally I think the smaller version are just glorified veal cages. And veal and the raising of such I have never viewed as very humane. Your choice in the end but trust me they'll be happier to produce for you in a larger setting. Besides at some point you might hit on getting a larger breed and in so doing you already have cages appropriate for their size with no redesign.
First off, I'll ask if you've raised rabbits before? Only beef cattle and one hog.
A three foot square cage is more than adequate. I spoke with Richard Steinberg in Owatonna, MN who breeds Florida Whites exclusively and he told me 2x2x14 is plenty of room. Do you think I need 3x3x16 for a medium size rabbit like the Florida White?
I am using all galvanized steel cages with slanted metal dividers under each cage that will run into a 3 inch pvc pipe cut in half. According to Richard, I can flush the system daily into a five gallon bucket.
I am going to to build the shed like a deck, with (3) 2x10x18 for the header and ledger resting on 6x6 posts on 4 12 inch concrete footings 48 inches deep and belled out at the bottom. The joists will be 2x10x8. The walls will be 2x4 with 2 inch foam insulation in the walls and the roof. I plan on adding 4 shed vents for light and ventilation, and leaving the sofit open for ventilation as well.
I am trying to figure out how to build a rocket mass heater under neath the structure. I will be running full uv spectrum fluorescent lights for the rabbits and maybe for starting seedlings if the temperature is right.
Thank for all the great info. This is a big project and having never even held a rabbit, at least for 20 years, it is good to get real world information.
Went to the library on Sunday and found a copy of the City Code. There is only one city in my County that limits the number of Rabbits you can have to two. My city said nothing about it so I am good there. As far as my research has shown there is a big difference between commercial butchering and local butchering regulations. Either way I doubt I would get in to it anyway, just wanted to read up on the regulations. I will probably just sell them as breeders.
Thank you for the response. Part of the problem is I would like to sell some of the meat, and I am not on good terms with the neighbor who has a pool fifteen feet from my bedroom. Grant it I will be placing the rabbits in an enclosed shed on the opposite side of that neighbor, I want to make sure everything is legit. I will probably just go down to City Hall and look through the zoning laws. Hopefully the clerk who is sitting at the desk has nothing to do with it anyway. f
I am planning on raising Florida White rabbits for meat production in the spring. I can build a 144 sqft shed with not issues as long as it is 5 feet from the property line. The information I cannot find is legality of raising rabbits in MN, a suburb of St Paul, MN. Do I just have to go into City Hall and sort through pages of zoning laws? I don't want to ask them straight out because if there is not an ordinance against it, they would like one I am pretty sure. Also, how do you find out about local requirements for slaughtering and butchering? Any advise would be helpful.