I used mine mostly for beans plus pot roasts/stews.
Don't forget: Since a pressure cooker keeps the flavor, and tenderizes a cut of meat, you can get spectacular results with much cheaper cuts of meat.
"Why are these promoted status limited to "the rest of this month"?"
Is the promotion lasting less than one month? Do they lose their promotion at the end of the month.
As Jocelyn said
...these promotions come from automated algorithms that are based on counting different things that staff do for us behind the scenes.
At the end of each month, 'gir bot' totals each of staff's accumulated points for the current month. The top scorers get the promotion for the next month.
Each of us has things to do in 'the real world', so the time that each of us has to monitor the site will vary from month to month. By doing this promotion on a monthly basis, it allows more of staff to get the chance of being one of the 'top guns'.
My Italian grandmother informs me the best way to heat up any type of leftover pasta is in a frying pan with a little olive oil.
I whole heartedly agree with your grandmother.
After dinner, I mix the leftover pasta and sauce. Simple fry pan reheat tomorrow.
Like a good soup, stew, or beans, it always tastes better the next day.
I have started my journey with the 6 quart model (that's an affiliate link for the empire) which she recommends, and depending upon the household size an 8 quart model
That looks like the one thing I need to add to my kitchen.
One huge question: (I am single.) Would the 5 qt version suffice for cooking one whole chicken?
Or would I need the 6 or 8 quart version?
I guess that I could just remove leg quarters/wings, and cook the carcass by itself...but curious.
From my perspective, having lived in both, eastern WA does not have the percentage of people willing (or motivated) enough to seek out organics he way they do west of the Cascades. However, the eastern population is much more inclined to eat home made meals, while the western population seems more in favor of 'out-of-the-box' ready made meals. Food (and everything else) is substantially cheaper in the east, where the high paying jobs are not as abundant as they are in the western regions. It is a much more relaxed atmosphere than the hustle-bustle of the bigger cities.
CSA's and farmer's markets do well enough there, but are not so much of a 'must-do' as they are along the I-5 corridor. In the eastern counties, there is a program (run by government agencies - associated with WIC) that give seniors 12 weeks worth of $5 food coupons that are only good at Farmer's Markets. The farmer's markets generally only operate about 12 weeks each season. The seniors may use one coupon per week, or they may use them all at once. This gives them the opportunity to eat healthier foods, and at the same time helps to subsidize the local farmers. Great program in my opinion - assisting two groups of people who could use a helping hand.
There is black & white. Pretty simple.
But, then there is grey. A million shades of grey between black & white.
To a certain extent, you can control which shade of grey you are producing.
Laundry detergents and soaps have varying degrees of 'earth friendlyness'.
Pick the greenest ones you can find...it's a step in the right direction.
Pre-soaking your clothes can remove much of the soil, therefore reducing the amount of detergent needed.
I understand the benefits of having a pond on your property,... However, I do not understand the the fixation...
A body of water is a focal point upon which all life on this planet evolves. I think that it is symbolic of 'life giving'.
On many properties, a pond is a great addition. But, it certainly won't fit all situations.
I would love to stretch out on a lawn chair each evening of summer and watch (and listen to) water cascading down a rocky waterfall into a pond. Would its practicality outweigh its cost in materials and labor? I don't think so in my case. To mimic nature is fine, but to try to create it where nature normally does not, is actually working against nature...not in the best permies design principals.
Years ago, I read on the internet some studies regarding this.
(And, NO. I no longer have links to it...that was several PCs ago, and bookmarks from that era are long gone.)
Of interest was that they exposed some of the seeds to the 'north' end of a magnet, while the others were exposed to the 'south' end. I can't recall which was which, but one group had higher germination rates, while the other group had greater growth rates.
If anybody is interested, that would be an interesting project.
See if their are measurable differences: N, S, and no exposure.
While it is not recommended to plant trees on hugul beds...
This brings up a thought from Sepp Holzer. He states that the hugel should be steep enough that you cannot walk on it. If you follow that advice, how could you manage (prune, etc.) the trees, yet alone harvest the fruits/nuts. You would need a very tall ladder just to reach the lowest limbs.
Cruising the internet, I found 2 Craig's List entries from Trout Creek...not far from Missoula.
This farm has pastured pork, plus is selling off some Mangalitsa pigs.
The Mangalitsa is an old heritage breed from Hungary...very sought after by chefs.
I would like to put a hugel or 2 on the hillside, put a few nut trees on it and some more plants.
It is highly discouraged to plant any trees on a huglebed.
Tree's roots need a stable place to grab hold and stay.
A hugel bed does NOT provide a stable base. It is constantly shrinking & settling.
Most trees will fail under those conditions.
Aoccdrnig to a rscheearch at Cmabrigde Uinervtisy, it deosn't mttaer in waht oredr the ltteers in a wrod are, the olny iprmoetnt tihng is taht the frist and lsat ltteer be at the rghit pclae. The rset can be a toatl mses and you can sitll raed it wouthit porbelm. Tihs is bcuseae the huamn mnid deos not raed ervey lteter by istlef, but the wrod as a wlohe.
...so the speed at which they decomposed may have something to do with the species.
QUOTE from Steve Solomon's book "Organic Gardener's Composting": ( SOURCE: )
Leaves from leguminous (in the same botanical family as beans and peas) trees such as acacia, carob, and alder usually become humus
within a year. So do some others like ash, cherry, and elm. More resistant types take two years; these include oak, birch, beech, and
maple. Poplar leaves, and pine, Douglas fir, and larch needles are very slow to decompose and may take three years or longer.
Some of these differences are due to variations in lignin content which is highly resistant to decomposition, but speed of decomposition is
mainly influenced by the amount of protein and mineral nutrients contained in the leaf.