I had suckering with these, but it averages out more as a benefit than an annoyance. Even the 90 year old tree that I had to rip away from my septic line only had a few dozen suckers spread out over 50 feet - snipped in 10 minutes if not wanted..
If you're trying to maximize cost and comfort, you may want to look into travel trailers. As long as you have a place to park you are set up pretty good, and some states have permanent licensing (or trip permits for $30 or so every time you move)
Getting around the cost of licensing and insurance with a motorized vehicle is the biggest thing to do.
If you are spending a lot of time there, you will really want a solar setup, some propane, a little space, and some wall insulation...
A small space can be very comfortable when you put in the time to make it all fit your lifestyle!
I have cleared some very similar areas with wisteria and ivy. I would recommend chopping to the ground anywhere you don't want it, but don't get too crazy about ripping out all the roots. Ivy is already quite a nice cover crop if you keep it in check, which is easy to do. Wisteria can make some pretty features if you guide the vines and keep them in check -- the Wisteria covered bridges in Japanese gardens are beautiful! (Google some pictures if you haven't seen them..)
Find a time once a year to trim things back to acceptable areas - this will keep them from excessive spreading or choking of trees.
Yes it has been very mild, but even if we don't get snow or an extended freeze, it's still too early for most of your garden favorites.. Hold on until early April for the hardy crops and probably mid May for the tomatoes started in a greenhouse. Even if you get a good lucky start, the plants won't be shooting out much in the colder weather..
You can cheat forward several weeks with low tunnels, and if you want to try frost seeding or a raking in with Marh frost, it might come out ok.
I definitely recommend the Steve Solomon book Growing Vegetables West of the Cascades for a very practical and regional guide! If he says something different than me -- He's the one who is right
Hi Dee, as long as you can protect them from weeds and critters, go ahead and plant them in the ground. Elderberry are pretty tolerant of conditions and you can plant fairly deep (below the soil line they were grouw out in) to make them more drought resistant. They will tolerate a range from sun to shade. It does take a lot of berries for a pound dried, but you can propagate more by just sticking fresh cane cuttings in the ground in Jan/Feb. Even a 6" cutting you can pot and grow out...
My farm is also very prone to an accidental abundance of blackberry. But I will tell you that you're overthinking it! Blackberries are pretty hard to propagate from seed, and just air drying the roots (even with soil) will typically kill the whole plant. It's not even "easy" to dig a blackberry root and transplant it!
I would recommend digging roots and then pulling the whole long vine into a pile - you can also plant trees inside a 3' high pile for natural mulching.
Spend your effort being vigilant to take out every plant each year if you want successful clearing. The biggest failure I see is people who put in the effort one year and then don't follow-up the next two years...
Dave Burton wrote:I might have to repost this in a separate thread, but we'll see how this goes.
How does someone share what resonates with them (their little fire, their dreams, desires, and hopes) with people that care about them, when they differ from what their loved ones hope for them?
I do know what you mean here Dave and in my experience it's just a matter of finding the areas where someone can relate as a positive. I don't have to be the crazy guy who grafted 1200 apple trees in his backyard -- I can be the guy who came and planted 2 dwarf heirloom apple trees in someone's yard - for free! Not a builder of earthworks, but the guy who bought an excavator and taught his teenage daughter how to operate it. I don't talk through the detailed benefit of the black locust tree, but certainly can share that those trees I planted 4 years ago already have a 5 inch trunk!
Whether you try or not, people will find something to relate to and kind of latch onto that - you don't have to explain the whole theory and rationale for it to people who aren't quite ready for it.
I think also for parents, they want something exceptional for their children, and sometimes you know what that is for you better than they do and they will catch up later. You will always do better at something when you have a true passion and interest in it, so exactly what that thing is has less to do with it all. I didn't picture my wife turning a little Facebook interest group into a career in writing and selling digestive supplements, but as she followed her passion for educating, the business just took off! It certainly wan't a plan up front - just where passion crossed into making business sense...
As soon as we get a few dry days, cut the lower two trunks close to the main trunk. Getting one solid shoot above the graft up over the 6-7 ft browse line for deer will be the best long term for the tree.
I make soup quite often, and almost anything can fit into a soup, but it's really the same issue: if you have tidbit but aren't making a soup, what do you do?
My solution is to keep a container for soup in the freezer -- if there are leftovers, surplus that will go bad, etc, it just goes into the container until soup day: a half cup of spaghetti sauce, half a tomato that would spoil otherwise, some leftover vegetables from dinner, and a little takeout fried rice, some corn cut off a drying lftover cob --- all just hanging out until the basic of a soup are ready to welcome them in...
This has worked so well that I have a second container now for soup stock: a few steak bones and chicken leg bones, a raw chicken back and some skin taken off for a previous meal, the drippings from a roast pan.... also waiting to be added to a nice stock when the time comes...
I think this can work for your normal leftovers and many of your misc garden items too!
My American chestnuts will usually have 2 filled out nuts and one little sliver like that. Between the squirrels and the deer, I usually only find the husk and the little sliver with the meaty nuts long gone.
Your zone should be fine to plant apple seeds a half inch deep in a long garden row and let them grow out for a year. Plant 2 seeds per inch and don't worry about crowding, just weed them and lightly mulch with something dry like wood chips. You can put a few rows 6 inch apart and still have access to weed them. Dig for transplant in the Dec-Feb dormant season
I never grew elderberry from seed. It's very easy to take 2-6 ft cuttings and stick them in the ground to grow!
But the growth pattern of elderberry doesn't fit a living fence well - too fragile and holds soft dead wood. Have you considered buying some Black Locust or osage orange seedlings in wholesale bundles?
Our online business is in formulating and selling natural products and supplements into Japan. But we now have a page that is in English (mostly!) for the USA only.
Key products are:
Probiotics - a very good shelf stable blend, and a chewable that is designed to not be damaged in the stomach
Digestive - a top-quality Leaky Gut product in powder form
Bone broth and collagen powder - quick and easy supplement or cooking stock
Essential oils - many types, mostly organic
Shampoo and conditioner - very natural products, some pre-mixed with essential oils
I have taken these alder off the sides of logging roads and they do ok. If the leaves are already budding, transplant success rate is low..
This is my preferred N-fixer for low swampy areas, next to streams and ditches. One caution is that alder easily fall down, so plan into the future as such..
Aronia is my #1 jam every year. I usually make it with something else in season at the same time.
Last year I used white plums which are very sweet:
Cook down whhite plum puree on simmer for 45 minutes (condensing down the puree to be thicker and sweeter), add whole aronia berries in equal quantity by weight and bring to a simmer - then simmer for 45 min (keeps berries whole but mushy). Fill into jars and water bath boiling for 20 minutes.
I like this recipe because the berries keep good shape and the whole berries make an attractive natural spread. This recipe has no added sugar or pectin, and sets up medium firm (not hard, but won't run out of the jar when tipped either.
I have also had good results with half aronia and half blackberry jam.
Just a tip on ripeness: Aronia berries will get black many weeks before they are really ripe. When ripening from red to black, there should be no red berries left on the whole bush and the time from first blackish berries to fully rip is 4-6 weeks. The berries will be fat and easily leak juice when ripe. Many people pick the berries before they are ripe and decide they don't like aronia berries - a tragic mistake...
Bill Weible wrote:Question: Now we are in July and one of the branches from my rootstock is overtaking the scion in growth rate. OK to prune off the rootstock branch now? I left it grow in case the graft failed, but it looks like it will be OK.
Yes, those can be pruned off now and the graft will do better for it. I find when they are soft you can just "fold" them down by hand and they pop off. Of course pruners are better if you have them with you..
You are generally just fine using these suckers -- those closest to the main trunk are usually the most likel to have roots that survive well.
Basic process: dig up the sucker in dormant season - make sure it has at least a few root hairs on it. Plant in a bed to develop its root system - it can be grafted in the spring when it starts to bud out.
The same can be done for rooted side shoots on rootstocks - cut near the trunk and as long as some root is there they tend to have high survival rate.
We use Stripe as a primary payment form. It has been easy to integrate and works well internationally. It's always of interest to get the fees lower, but even direct merchant services through a bank are fairly expensive and much harder to integrate online.
We are in process renovating house and property and pursuing some business activity in the same space. There are many places we can use a hand and the property offers some unique experiences. Business activity should be able to eventually support full time work and lodging at the property -- things are still in process to get us there.
Property is 14 acres in Longview, WA, USA. Not a typical Permie homestead, but a unique and peaceful place with some jaw-dropping features.
Requires a hard worker with an open mind -- many opportunities can be made to fit skills and interest. PM me with what your availability is, skills you bring, and what would make an ideal longer term setting you you.
These grow nicely in my Zone 7 area -- they do very well in wet areas. The fruit is tastes pretty good and is a heavy producer. As a hedge it is easy to bend, puts on fast growth, and is a little thorny - probably a good fit!
How old are the 65 young? Mine are first year. Could I rip a trench with a ditch witch and casually drop them in there, then transplant in a year? Is that better than potting them in commercial topsoil (something i'm considering for the overstock)? That could be a promising technique for a lot of these bareroots.
Mine are also from the conservations district - black elderberry about 2 ft tall.
If you rip a trench of soft soil and fill them in (even close together) they should get up to 6ft with a main trunk this year. After that, they are pretty free to grow above deer browse height. Elderberry are easy to transplant and also grow with rooted suckers profusely, so you can dig and separate or dig and re-fill the trench with shorties..
Beginning grafting is pretty forgiving -- if you fail, the rootstock generally survives and thrives and you get another chance next year (or you can try some August bud grafting instead..) And if you mound up your dirt a little when groowing trees out, you will get some new rooted rootstock coming out as well...pretty soon you will need to find a place to sell them all...
I just finished up planting bareroot for the year. If you can get them in the ground quickly, that is best by far. The biggest danger is the roots drying out, second is the roots rotting from too much moisture, and third is the roots dying in a hard freeze -- all of these only happen if you don't get them in the ground..
I've had good success with elderberry and got another 100 bareroot this year -- I direct planted 35 bigger plants, and planted the smaller 65 in a trench to grow out for a year - just in slits 6" apart where they will get a wood chip mulch. For me, getting the trees above the deer browse line (over 6 ft) gives them a much better chance of survival...
I think what is normally meant by grafting onto rootstocks being cheap is that you can graft over 1000 trees for well under $1000....and then grow out some rootstocks for free propagation and grafting in later years.....
A few more tips on Lawyer:
They have "conservation grade" that usually means a kinked stem or funny root or something - but great stock at half or less the regular price
They have a literal fire sale in June -- stock goes to about 60% discount for a while as it comes out of cooling and what doesn't sell goes on the bonfire... (this isn't broadly advertised so you might need to call and ask..)