Well, if you used to hang around the mimf, we might have encountered before. Tho, i'm not much there since my career change. I have been trained to make guitars. Did a city and guilds of guitarmaking in UK. But now i went back to bigger woodworking. I found dealing with stingy skint musicians, very unpleasant. Since 2005, i haven't done much, besides repairing valve amps.
Fox, is this outside, or semi outside, in a open to air pergola/patio or else?
If yes, you don't even need to seal that plate, four firebricks on the corners, for the riser gap, and you're done, they don't smoke, except at startup.
When you want to use it as a sort of fireplace, you remove the steel plate, and let the flames out mostly you would have the glow from the flames at the bottom, and the heat. Welders gloves are a must.
In the video with sausages above, you can see the flames throwing out of the heat riser, and the heat riser gap. One thing thought, if your metal is too thin, you will cook in the middle, but not very far from the place where the flames hit the metal.
Mary, yes you need a chimney going above the roofline.
In Ianto evans book, he says that it is possible to have one venting through the wall. I don't know anybody who has been happy with a rocket of any type vented through the wall. They're really prone to extreme smokeback.
You can use metal for a cooking one, well, firebrick feed tube and burn tunnel, start of the heat riser with the firebricks, and finish with a stainless tube. They last long enough to be used as a hotplate. I insulate this with rockwool. And fit all this in gas bottles. So the thing is self contained and tough. So it can be moved around. Make the bottom heavy, so it doesn't tip.
David Livingston wrote:Strange I was in Leroy Merlin * the other day and I did not see any either :-)
How exactly do you want to use these screws ? Would wooden batons work?
* well known French DIY store
David, i rarely go to leroy merlin. I'm usually buying from pro suppliers! But more than 450mm, is hard to get!
Do you understand how a sarking work? Basically you make a box of the thickness of your insulation, at the outside edge of the walls, on the existing roof. Then fill that with the required thickness of rigid insulation, then lay some battens 8x4cm for example, above the insulation, at the vertical of the rafters, which are completely underneath the whole complex. Then link the batten and the rafter with a very long screw. Which compresses the insulation a bit, and serves as a support for the roof slats, holding either the tiles or in my case, "tole bac"
One screw every meter or so. The closest i am, to a good price, now, is 600€ for 400 screws. Still a bit dear!
Joel Bercardin wrote:I supposes you've tried this, Satamax, but for those reading this thread who may not have... Here is a way to get audio-visual info about doing this sort of thing — both demonstrative basic experiments and full-on home-level systems. Go to Youtube, enter these terms: home hydrogen production
James Freyr wrote:I hate to be a nay-sayer, but burning plastics releases horrible toxins into the atmosphere. These toxins which include nasties like dioxins come down with the rain, polluting the soil, lakes, streams and oceans. The fact that people manufacture plastics is bad enough for the environment, but burning them too just pollutes even further. Please don't burn plastics.
Nathan Prince wrote:Sourcing materials for a RMH, cabin is 250-300sqft, r-20 walls, r-30 roof&floor, in hardieness zone 3. As a primary heating source, what would be an ideal flue size and bench mass volume. Other than the heat riser and bench mass, the construction will be heavy steel (at least 1/4").
Because common pipe is in whole inches, what consideration should be given to interior diameter through the tubes?