Joe, the barrels can be filled with cob or bricks or even pea gravel for thermal mass. We've also built benches out of cob or pea gravel for even more thermal mass, and the cottagerocket just plugs in.
A friend of ours bought a 1920s summer house that was built around a redwood tree growing up through the middle of it. 15 years later the tree had grown so much the floor, roof, pipes, and some vents had to be redone. It was very damp and moldy, too. Always shaded. Even their clothes smelled like mold.
Tap roots are for holding a plant in place, they usually are not the roots responsible for taking in nutrients. A study of the roots of the alfalfa plant will show extremely long, fine roots that can suck up minerals like a sponge, loosen soil to nice depths and create a bubble of pH change around those roots.
Sounds like the plant I need to be sowing where I have highly compacted, currently useless, soil!
you dig down to find out what your soil profile is at various regions on your land. "test pits" and you collect this data and assess the differences at various elevations and locations. correlate with soil and geologic maps you can find from NRCS and USGS free online. tools you can use are shovel, excavator, drill, etc. depending on what you have available and how deep you want to go.
Thanks Neil, this is really helpful info. Thank you! I'm a newbie landowner and didn't know how to gather data for building a soil profile. It's always helpful to get the first step and a few key search phrases then off I can go on a frenzied google search to fill in the blanks!! Very much appreciated!
Paul and Jocelyn start the podcast talking about the fact that Paul found his "Paulcano". They then move on talking about naming the farm and that many names were suggested. They move on to describe base camp(BC), how people ended up chiping in money to allow purchasing it and how Paul is happy to be part of such a community. Jocelyn mentions that workshops will not be confirmed until BC closes.
They describe Deep roots before moving on to a description of the farm. Paul mentions that there is currently no water on the land, but he plans on bringing back a creek. Jocelyn describes how lush the undergrowth on the land felt in comparison to some other areas she has been to. She has taken a lot of pictures.
They talk about the equipment that will be brought to the land: a track hoe for doing the earthworks, an electric cart (aka UTV) for snow removal and road shaping, an electric Peterson sawmill, a propane generator to avoid gasoline spills, just to name a few. Paul mentions that he does not see the need for a tractor since he will have the track hoe. A tipi will be installed on the land in a few days. The plan is to have Ernie and Erica build a rocket mass heater to heat it. A couple already volunteered to spend next winter in the tipi.
They then talk about money streams and the goal to get out of debt as soon as possible. Paul mention about auctioning the creek name or the mountain name at BC. Paul then outlines the requirements to get on the land: listen to most of his podcasts. He thinks that it will avoid wasting of time explaining everything, act as a jetpack for moving projects forward, and reduce conflicts.
Paul and Jocelyn move to the hot topic of workshops. Jocelyn has created threads about the different ones that are in the plans on Paul's farm forum. They then put a lot of emphasis on keeping the location of the land secret to avoid unannounced visits. They touch the subject of exit plan aka parachute.
They mention that although they are looking for a lot of seeds, they would rather not have them until they move to BC in June.
Paul talks about the division of the land, even though it will probably not be for a few years and how he renamed the original areas from Organic, Permaculture, Symbiculture, and HUSP to Oehla (Organic entry level area), Perm, Symbu, and Huspa.
Paul clarifies that it will not be possible to do just camping if coming to the land, but that rather, people will have to have listened to podcast and be there to help.
Paul and Jocelyn conclude the podcast by talking about the mission, the home for the humble (year round woofing for pod-people), and village economy.
Support the Empire
Help support the empire and get all of the podcasts in bundles here
Karen Donnachaidh wrote:I'm getting "This video is unavailable". Is it just my internet signal that doesn't allow it to load, or...?
I'm not seeing it either. It looks like it got taken down.
I know that youtube is VERY strict about copyright. So I feel if something appears on youtube, it is legit. And sometimes the folks that own the video will allow something to appear for a few days so that folks can get tasted up to go buy it. Here it is at amazon:
Unless steps are taken to seal the chamber/bucket, or a fan is added to the vent stack, would a draft be created? Are there any articles on this?
Given that a typical toilet seat is less than airtight, and that there is going to be an airgap between the bucket and the seat, it seems like the system is basically open. I checked my toilet seat here at home, and there is a 5/16" gap between the bowl and the seat, and a 1/4" gap between the seat and the lid. My toilet seats would have approximately 17.5 sq in of ventilation just at the bowl/seat/lid area. A 3" vent pipe would only add 7 sq in.
I guess my question is whether the juice is worth the squeeze. A lot has been made of the fact that composting toilets don't smell. The prevalence of vent stacks seems to suggest otherwise. I guess I can try without and always add one later.
Jesse Biggs wrote:After a whole lotta prodding and foot dragging, I managed to upload a product over at Scubbly. If anyone's interested & until I get things sorted you can get the sketchup models of shippable woodbox core versions 1.2 & 1.3 for $1 at my new storefront here:
Jesse Biggs' Stuff Worth Making
Lots of water, Baby moose with momma, wild chokecherries, roads, slime, and the last one is a quintessential Wyoming shot, UP railroad, two lane highway with the game and fish ranger ahead of me, and a cattle drive down the highway !
I can envision this being a really good sheep barn. The hillside would have to be situated on the lee side of the prevailing winds, but sheep can handle any amount of cold (provided they have enough roughage in their rumens), but need to be out of the wind. These would provide that. It would also allow a livestock guard dog to guard the single entrance and protect the sheep at night. Fast, simple, easy construction are other merits.
I never researched wofati construction before, but I really like it! (Did I ever tell you how much I love Permies and how it has expanded my thought process?) I actually have the ideal situation for this, a bulldozer and Wallenstein log trailer. The latter would take a lot of the difficult work out of the construction process.
On Tuesday October 6, Paul, a couple of the innovators and some of the other participants evaluated the solution to the heater niggles in the tipi. The conclusion seems to be the higher gas velocity, caused by the replacement of the vertical chimney stack right next to barrel solved the apparent smokeback problems. After that the whole party moved to the Wofati 0.7 which is now called Allerton Abbey, by the way.
The heater there has been very troublesome from the outset due to low vertical stack temperatures, but the tipi solution wasn't really applicable. Mainly because of the rock hard earthen floor and the fact that the heater needed to be rebuilt for a large part to achieve the desired results and also time constraints. A quick fix of the heater defiancies would be a barrel on top of the existing one and a black 6" stovepipe from the manifold cleanout to the chimney opening high in the opposite wall.
On Friday 9, afternoon Don and I took some tools, a burnt out barrel, two 8" to 6" reducers, an elbow and some lengths of black stovepipe up to the lab and did the fix in a couple of hours. We did cut out the top of the existing barrel and placed the other one on top. Without altering the riser so the top gap was extended by as much as the barrel height. We mounted the two reducers and the 6" pipe between the cleanout and the opening in the wall and that was about it.
After that it worked right out without as much as a hiccup and the Abbey got quite warm that day. Sadly, the triple wall outside chimney wasn't mounted correctly before so the 8" side of the reducer was in contact with the planks of the wall. Much to Paul's dismay when I reported about the proceedings because this could lead to scorching and burning walls in the depths of winter.
On Saturday I found a solution, told Paul on Sunday morning how it could be done and Randall and me got it fixed on Sunday afternoon. In essence, we used a short piece of black 8" stovepipe to extend the reducer, put a 1' piece of 6" pipe in the 8" side of the reducer and filled the space between the inner and outer pipe with 1" of superwool blanket. Now the insulated piece was shielding off the pipe from the wall, acting as a thimble. We ran the heater and the difference was quite significant. One foot from the wall the temp of the pipe got up to as much as 180 F and 2" from the wall it remained room temperature.
I would reckon the mass of the Abbey could be charged with the heat from the batch box provided this would be fired every day for weeks on end.
Elle, like everything where the government is concerned it is best to be on the up and up so that you don't run into problems later. We have not needed any permit for any of the 4 Crater Gardens I have built so far, but we did need approval from one home owner's association and we always asked to confirm that no permit was needed before starting the project.
The biggest thing is what water source you are using. If you are just using rainwater or water that you otherwise own it is no problem in Montana. If you are trying to use a well to fill the Crater Garden then you should really consider a different plan, as that is not what nature wants to facilitate in that place.
It is always important to have accurate drawings that explain the process and final result, this makes educating people about them much easier. Once people understand what we are trying to do and why we are trying to do it they so far have never had any problems with it, wish us well and send us on our way. I would recommend bringing them nice detailed to scale drawings of what you are planning and then it should be no problem to get them on board.
The wood in Hugelkulturs breaks down over time and destabilizes the mound. This is why Sepp would not plant trees in a hugelkultur, nor use them on contour like swales. I can imagine how a couple of years into decomposition a large rainfall event could cause a section of a hugel-swale to rupture. This means you would have to come through every couple of years with a machine for repairs. Ideally Sepp likes to come through with the machine once and then never touch it again. I can definitely see how this type of machine use would not be ideal for a developing agro-forestry system.
Many thanks, Zach, for this sensible comment.
I've been pondering some sort of hugel-swale terrace on a steep slope, and hadn't faced the facts. Thanks for helping me avoid a catastrophe!
Hi Lee, what a great project! Something I'd suggest, assuming the top of your map is North...
In my climate, it's nearly always best to run plantings North-South rather than East-West for even sun-distribution.
Lee Real wrote:Can someone tell me if this is comfrey?
While the leaves are narrower than I'm used to, it has the vein structure and hairyness of comfrey.
It looks like it's a perennial cultivar that's just emerged in the spring?
People may be able to give you more specific ideas if you're keen to put up more information about your location/climate