I have a Muscovy mom raising 4 Khaki-C ducklings in a portable shelter. After I moved them, I filled their rubber bin "bathtub" and added a bit of Lemna "duckweed". By the time I'd filled some of the other water buckets in the queue, I peeked in to see all 4 ducklings "swimming" in the tub and slurping up the duckweed. Pretty good for 5 day olds! Mom was looking on rather pleased!
I learned to use a pressure cooker by helping my mom make dinner - in the 1950s. Stews, swiss steak, pot full of potatoes, corned beef hash etc. My mom in turn gave me a (4 qt.)pressure cooker when I was first married (1970) which I still use today. I use my probably weekly on average, more in winter for cooking, more in summer for food storage uses. Over the years I have collected several pressure cookers - a 22 qt. canner, 4 qt. stainless steel, 2 qt. 'fry pan style' ($1 at garage sale) and 6 qt. stainless steel which is fabulous for canning small batches (4 pints) of garden produce when harvest trickles in a few tomatoes/beets/apples etc. at a time. Come winter I use my cookers on our wood stove getting extra work from BTUs otherwise only used for heating the house.
One thing I like to make is sweet/sour red cabbage. Traditionally its cooked for hours and produces an aroma many don't like. The pressure cooker makes this in minutes and with much less odor. However it still draws flies like a magnet! (even thru screens on windows!).
I expect to spend about $5000 on slab and block work for a house in the Philippines. Probably another $2000 on a block biogas unit and very large block swamp cooler with a block solar chimney. Also a block swimming pool.
I stayed in a house that would be less than $1000 to replace and it's perfectly serviceable. If we spend $10,000 overall, it will be a far above average house.
The house will never be heated or cooled beyond the use of natural means, so over its lifetime, that offsets the small amount of concrete. The floor doesn't need reinforcement and doesn't need to be very thick. No frost. The walls will be reinforced and I will probably spring for the coated stuff that isn't as prone to rusting. The exterior will be given a water-tight stucco.
I expect tropical vines to be the main thing that controls concrete temperature . By not letting the sun hit the concrete, it will be easier to keep cool.
Many of the properties I've looked at have their own stone and the labor to break it from the ground is quite inexpensive. So if I go with stone facing, it will be real. Lots of unemployed people so that the most ethical route.
I see some houses here that are being built to last centuries and some will probably fall down in 10 or 20 years. I will supervise every bit of work myself and not skimp on powder. I'll make sure that water isn't flowing over it constantly.
When excavating close to limestone bedrock, picks and sledge hammers are used to break up surface rocks. It is usually mixed in place so it's very easy to incorporate available aggregates. I've been looking into getting a jaw crusher so that any rock smaller than a basketball can be reduced to make different grades of aggregate. Useful for trail building and it's something that can be rented out when not needed.
Typical old style housing is coconut planks and everything else bamboo. They usually last 20 years or less. No way to control temperature or bugs.
I'm curious about chipping wood during fire mitigation. One website I was recently put pine duff and wood chips in the category of things that should be cleared out anywhere near a house. I can sort of see their point but increasing organic matter in the soil is a central permaculture strategy. Having worked around wildfires, how do wood chips burn? I assume they're not going to burn as intensely as something with lots of air access. I assume that after a few years they'll have broken down and become less flammable but somewhere in the middle they'll be punky and will hold embers really well. So are wood chips the perfect use for dead wood or a hazard to keep far away?
I was hiking today through a section of forest that burned about 5 years ago and mostly it was just mineral soil with nothing on top. It seems that organic material beneath the mineral soil layer would tend to survive a fire a lot more easily so I was thinking about what deep-rooted plants could be planted.
I was bushogging around a few fields yesterday and it was clear as day that Nitrogen Fixation works...
One field where I sowed down 50% Timothy, and 50% Clover is a thick deep green, the other field beyond was sown down into Timothy, Reed Canary, Clover, Orchard Grass, and Alfalfa...and it is all yellow. In the first field (8 acres) the clover is pulling nitrogen from the air and feeding the roots, while on the second field (15 acres) there is not enough clover to make enough of a nitrogen difference. Soil tests show (as if the yellowing was not an indicator enough) that it needs 3 tons of fertilizer.
I've just about finished the cabin. We moved in a couple months ago, and I've been slowly finishing the project. I still have a few minor details to do, such as installing two storm doors, putting up a shelf in the bathroom that my wife asked for, staining the interior of the windows, and I'm sure there are a couple more small items I can't remember. I'm kinda burned out. I want to be done building. I'm ready and eager to get started on the real reason we moved out here; designing, creating, building, maintaining and enjoying our version & interpretation of The Krameterhof.
*The Kramterhof is the name of Sepp Holzers permaculture farm in Austria
I stayed in the Red Cabin during the 2019 PEP1 event. It's a lovely cabin and close to all the action. I'd highly recommend a stay there. I'm over 6' and the lower bed was long enough (feet dangling a bit).
I did have trouble getting the rocket mass heater to run without smoking. I don't know enough about the design of these heaters but it seems like the top of the door should be below the height of the exit slot at the rear. Otherwise any smoke hanging out in the firebox has a chance to escape the seams in the door. Even having a perfectly sealed door wouldn't remedy the situation since you have to open the door at times and that would let the smoke out into the room.
My goal during my stay was to figure out a way to get it to run with the design as built. First, we took out the elbow in the smokestack (pictures above) to check how plugged up the stack was. It was pretty bad. We cleaned it out and replaced the elbow with a tee so that checking/cleaning will be easier in the future. That night it still smoked
After a few iterations, the best heater operation system I came up with is:
Get some easy to light paper and feed a bunch back through the slot in the rear to get it into the riser. The goal is to get as much in the riser as possible without blocking an air path up the front of the riser that's maybe 1" in diameter. Don't use cardboard, you want stuff that burns fast.
Have this paper extend out the bottom of the slot (not blocking airflow through the top 1" of the slot) and out into the bottom of the firebox a ways. This will be the tinder underneath your small starter fire.
Then build a small starter fire on top of that paper tinder. Use small twigs and split wood, aim for pencil to hot dog sized pieces. Make this starter fire in the back of the firebox and under the 1" air gap you've left at the top of the slot. When building the little fire, lay the sticks criss crossed so that there's plenty of room for air to pass through the sticks.
Then, light the torch. Reach way back in there and light the paper in the riser (not under the starter fire).
Close the door.
The riser paper should ignite right away and start drawing air through the air inlet of the firebox and pushing cold air out the chimney. That fire should work its way back out the slot and under the starter fire, igniting that wood.
Once that small fire is half burned up (don't wait too long), gingerly open the door and see if smoke comes out. Regardless of smoke coming out, put more wood on the fire. Now it can be larger splits but no bigger than 2" square. If you're having smoking issues, use shorter splits so that the butt end isn't real close to the door.
Once that new wood has charred up and been burning for a while, the system should be in "steady state". You can open the door as needed to fill up with wood. Now you can put in larger pieces but probably nothing bigger than 3" square or so. I'm not sure because I didn't have larger stuff to try.
I got to the point where I could get the starter fire going and then just put my main wood on (2" size). Three sticks that size was enough to heat it up for me for the night (45F lows and 65F highs when I was there).
I've got a set of free weights indoors, but garden and landscaping work gives me a lot of exercise. I spend quite a bit of time working on hugel beds and it's a couple hundred yards of steep incline from my seasonal creek bed up to the yard level where I have my garden and edible landscaping, so walking up out of there with a dead log or a couple 5 gal buckets of dirt is great for cardio and core muscles.
Most likely your wood may not be for ground contact
Not all pressure treated is. Even if it is cement or not. A poorly installed past will only last 5. To 7 years. It usually breaks off at ground level
Cementing in a post does not mean it will resist more wind
Cross brace first
I've spent tens of thousands of dollars into the homestead here with the family. I'm in debt...but clawing to get out and should be clear within 12-18 months and in a much better position to continue moving forward with the homestead / small farm dreams. I got WAY overzealous at first and considered it wise to spend beyond my means - but all it got me was instant gratification, long-term regret and getting into *many* things WAY over my head. Burnout and incurring debt has gotten me thinking about things in a much more productive, and healthy way.
I've had somewhat the same experience with most of my vermicompost and I've found that it pays to keep it aerobic, like Kyle says. I have gotten the crumbly texture from composting well aged quail manure in pine shavings bedding and chicken manure in the same bedding, which make sense as it's got a lot more air spaces than paper. With the bird manure, I made sure to leave at least a quarter bin of cardboard/paper bedding with veggie scraps as a refuge from the hot bedding and, while it took longer, it sure made great vermicompost. I find corrugated cardboard works very well for bedding; much better than paper. The worms sure love those tunnels.
There's a commercial vermicompost company a 40 minute drive from where I'm moving and, while it's farther than I want to drive, I'm thinking I'll apply for a job there because, hey, who doesn't want to work with worm poop for a living? If I do, and I get the job, I'll report back here.
Excellent thread. It is interesting to see how some people are getting very emotional about this topic. Who would have thought that cutting grass would get so many people worked up.
First off I despise lawns, I think they are boring, ugly and a waste of space. I don't despise people that grow lawns. I drive around and see people that have a half acre of lawn and i just can understand why they would do that. A lot of these places don't even have a dog to run in that field. Property is expensive, why buy so much if you aren't going to use it? But this is obviously just from my viewpoint, some people like the see of useless green.
I live in the PNW in a area where wild fires are not a concern and ticks are not all that bad, same goes for fleas. We do have a lot of slugs in our area though. The native banana slugs are awesome because they eat mostly (maybe only?) dead material. The European Brown slug on the other hand is a real pain in the a**. This year they destroyed a lot of our seedlings. Though this is my first year at this home (I cant compare to previous years) I bet having long grass has contributed to having more slugs. This does not worry me though. I see this as part of the journey. Soon enough I will have helped created/encourage a ecosysyem that keeps the slugs in check. More birds, spiders and garter snakes equals less slugs!
This is our first year on the property, it was about 1/4 acre of grass when we bought it and we are working on converting it over to a permaculture food forest. Step one was to plant garlic to overwinter (i can't live without it) and to throw a cover-crop on the grass. We needed to break up the compacted sod with deep roots and add organic matter. As you can see in the picture the cover is doing great (around the edges). Step 2 was to lay out a garden bed, the first of many more.
I cut the lawn occasionally to make paths, the rest I let grow wild. One of the first thing i noticed was the "weeds" have beautiful flowers that the bees love. Second is we seem to have a lot more birds, more than most of our neighbors at least. Third, I have limited time because I have a one year old running around the house, since I don't waste time with mowing I can spend more time with the kiddo or weeding the garden.
Has anybody incorporated dried and crushed mint into soap? I don't mean using mint oil, that has been done to death. I mean incorporating the entire leaf so that you have an abrasive bar that also has the benefits of mint aroma. I should have Googled this first, so here I go.
I found several examples on Google Images. Turns out you can crush up just about any herb and put it into soap. Some just crushed it and others ran it through a coffee grinder and powdered it. I assume it will be mildly abrasive. The bars with bigger chunks will probably leave a residue in the sink that has to be rinsed out. Seems like a lot less fuss than trying to extract essential oils.
I know that most animals don't like to eat mint and that mint is repellent to many insects. So it seems like a good thing to mix with bedding.
Weevils get into grains that are stored. I wonder if mint would be a deterrent. Seems like it would be easy enough to sort out of the grain when cooking, and if you miss a bit, it won't do any harm.
I think this was the first volcanic event that was very well predicted and plenty of warning was given to anyone who could be in danger from it. It was on the news, they did flyovers, they used loudspeakers. Every reasonable attempt was made to convince people to leave. I was 16 years old and at a very safe distance in St Catharines Ontario Canada. And I saw enough news coverage of it to realize that that would not be a good place to go. They think that 57 people were killed. There should be a special Darwin Award for them.
Travis Johnson wrote:I do not think it is possible to keep coyotes off a property, you simply have to understand them and work with them.
I haven't seen any coydogs or coyote/wolf crosses, but I have plenty of experience with Texas coyote packs. There, they are very smart and not very shy. They will stand in the open near the tree line and stare at you - unless you reach for a rifle and they're gone.
They are pretty hard to shoot unless you do it from the road (illegal) or from the tractor. My neighbor who plowed and planted 50 acres a year for me would get them when he was plowing. He would see them when he was driving one direction, get his rifle ready, and then hit them on the way back.
But it was a coyote that caused a friend's dog to shoot him (not kidding). He was on my place setting a post for me. I left to go get a round bale from another neighbor. When I came back 10-15 minutes later, he was gone and there was a pool of blood on the ground.
Took days for me to find out what happened. The coyote was standing at the tree line staring at him - as they often did. He took his rifle out of the rack in the back window of his pickup, but by then the coyote was gone. Instead of putting the rifle back into the rack, he laid it on the seat (mistake).
When he want to get something out of the truck, his dog jumped onto the seat, discharging the rifle into his thigh. He thought he could drive to the hospital (not sure which one - 15 or 30 miles away). By the time he got to the end of the road he was losing so much blood he knew he'd not make it. So he drove into the little town.
He asked someone to call an ambulance. Ambulance comes and refuses to take him. They call the helicopter. It wasn't until I managed to reach his family several days later that I found out what happened. He said the dog felt so guilty, it ran out in front of a car and killed itself right after he got out of the hospital. (That's what he said.)
Anyway, back to coyotes. The cattle rancher run 2 large burros in every pasture to protect feeder cattle (turned out from weaning through yearling size). Because coyotes are hard to shoot, they have another way of getting rid of them.
They hang exploding meat high enough up in trees that a domestic dog won't jump and coyotes have to keep jumping over and over to get to it. When they finally get a piece *boom* instant death. Note that this is probably not legal.
That said, if you had a smaller place (say 40 acres or so), a couple of aggressive dogs with the run of the place definitely kept coyotes off the property. One friend in California had a male German Shepherd and a female half-wolf. No coyote ever crossed their place and lived to the other side.
On 40 acres and later 80 acres in Texas, we inherited two Weimaraner dogs, a sister and brother. They lit out after the coyote and knocked it flying end over end. Never saw another coyote on either place even though we had chickens and guineas.
There are coyotes EVERYWHERE. In California, they'd stand next to a busy road and watch the traffic go by. But what many don't realize is that there are often bobcats and cougars everywhere, too. You just don't see them that often.
I found out we had one in Texas when it tried to take down a full-size horse and spooked all my horses in that pasture through 3 fences. That mare grazed off by herself - older mare - and she limped. But she could run when she had to and she managed to get away with just a missing chunk out of the point of her shoulder.
Neighbors said "pack of dogs" and "pack of coyotes" and I said no way. Horses will stomp both and post a guard horse (all of them never lay down to sleep at the same time when you run them in a large herd). Then I found the tracks. And talking to my hay guy a few days later, he had seen the cougar cross his place 2 days before.
Experts say you should not take out the established cougar because it only kills enough to live and hunts alone. If you eliminate it, then younger ones move in that don't know how to hunt well and they cause havoc and kill more livestock until they figure it out.
While that might be true if you only have 1 older coyote, too, coyotes reproduce and packs, especially when they're learning to hunt, are a big problem. If you don't reduce their numbers, you're probably going to have worse and worse problems.
I used to know a gentleman who farmed worms in north central michigan. He did introduce some red wigglers into his in ground compost beds but he reported all kinds of worms populating them once they were going. He would dig down a few feet to make what would ultimately be a 4x8 bed (perfect for covering with one sheet of plywood). Then he would lay down hardware cloth to keep gophers and such at bay, then build up the edges with cinder blocks to create the squared 4x8 frame. 2x4s around the top allowed him to hinge some of the plywood covers but he said he had mixed feelings about the usefullness of that step. After that he would just dump food waste mixed with shredded paper and cardboard starting at one end and moving to the other. He would introduce red wigglers from the isolated boxes he kept (he sold worms as one income stream) each time he started a fresh box. Otherwise he just added more mix as they worked through what was in there. His report was that all kinds of worms would show up and I'd imagine you would find the same thing where you are. He also reported that his beds would freeze later than the soil around them and that he believed the worms would migrate down when the whether got cold
I've had some success against mosquitos by spraying my yard (lawn/bushes/etc.) with a mixture of dried hot peppers/garlic/dish soap/veg oil/ water, I let it steep for a few days in a sprayer, and then coat everything. (Handful of dried peppers, head of garlic squished, squirt of Dawn, abt 1/4 cup of veg oil and 1 gallon of water) Here in S-Central PA we have honor of having not just regular mosquitos but also a new variety from Asia that hunts day and night.
Marcus vandell wrote: a cistern and as a foundation/slab, almost 17 years ago now and am pleased to say it's held up fantastically well. It measures 7m x 3.5m x 1.40m. So, that's some 34,000ltrs..
If you do decide to go concrete I'd be happy to go into details about how I built ours.
Hi Marcus, how thick were your walls for your cistern? what spacing did you use for the rebar? did you seal the concrete? ....I may build one in the ground using stone rather than concrete but I am curious about yours for an idea of structural strength.
biosand filter works great too you can even drink the water. I have constructed and use couple of this. https://www.cawst.org/services/expertise/biosand-filter/more-information. This has a max capacity of 200 liters. If you need double that, double the cross section area. the height is same. Very easy and cheap to make if you improvise. I use big plastic bags and sacks. Cost around P150 philippine money plus my labor. I collected free beach sand. not the one near the water but somewhere up. The crucial part is choosing the right sand size but not difficult. I did it right the first time.
So coming back for an update (and to see how long it has been):
in the last three weeks I have had an endoscopy/biopsy, which showed that I still have ulcers but no H pýlori. I also have been diagnosed with IBS-mixed.
I've also been playing with FODMAPS over the past few weeks and finding that it really, really does make a difference.
I feel like my ulcer is not the problem here (it will go away eventually), but rather my feel-like-i'm-about-to-birth-an-alien intestines. I don't think I am going to take acid reducing medication, as last time that made my gut feel so much worse. The gut is my priority right now.
I've found that some things that really worried me I can still eat (onions, garlic, apples). Other things (erva mate tea, dairy) I didn't expect the strong reaction they provoke. And wheat, wow. If I want an instant stomachache, flour is the way there.
I also finally got back to the gym today. And probably unsurprisingly, it was the first day I had no stomachache until very late in the day. I feel optimistic.
My spouse used to like to host foreign students, but then thought that they'd magically understand that this is a working farm on a septic tank and a well! I started to insist that we would only accept students if the host company asked for student volunteers that *wanted* a farm experience. It seemed that that was enough to suggest to the students that they were going to be in a very different situation than city life and were game to give it a try. It was still pretty funny seeing the look on their faces when I picked up a chicken and handed it to them! I can't say that they were ever much help, but at least their attitude was in the right place, and that made a huge difference from my perspective.
This weekend we spent skiing corn snow, and snowshoeing out to a lake in 50˚ weather over 5-10 feet of snow, which reminded me… spring is coming! It has been one hell of a winter up here in the Sierras. As we speak we're sitting on 200% of historical average worth of SWE (snow water equivalent). We had some of the coldest storms I've ever experienced, and months worth of feet of Colorado-style champagne powder. My little tracking app on my phone says I've ridden over vertical 300,000ft and covered over 250 miles on my snowboard this season. I also got the opportunity to check out a bunch of places I've been dying to see — the highlight being Jackson Hole and Yellowstone. All's that to say that I'm still alive. Just leaning into winter.
My greenhouse out front will need some rethinking. There was about 15ft of snow piled on to (of the top) of the frame, and the bit that's melted thus far concludes what I assumed: it's crushed. I thought the snow might fill in around the frame and keep it in tact. Turns out the snow-eater (snow auger?) beat it. We'll see how the Ranch fares in... June? July? I'm guessing the roads will be open sometime mid/late June at the snowpack we've got out here.
I'm excited for this summer. Life has thrown me a few curve balls since the fall, but this time good ones! The next few years will be a huge transition for me, but for now the increasing sun angles remind me that times marches on regardless of our personal hang-ups. My big goal for the ranch this year is to improve the road so I can get a semi down it (and thus, bulk supplies). After that... well, I've still got some meditating to do on that front. I want to fix up the old cabin — stain it, improve the chinking, replace the wood stove, and building a loft. I want to fence in the garden. I want to completely refurbish the water system and add some rainwater harvesting tanks. I want to start planning out a new cabin to build for myself. I want to start milling my own lumber. I want a larger shelter for tools & equipment. I want to finish my solar shed. But the summer is short, and my list long.
I know many of you are already putting plants in the ground, but for me I've still got another month or two to play in the snow and plan out my summer.
How many castings were you able to harvest on a weekly basis. You stated minimal harvest.
Sorry, I was referring to self-harvest, as in the amount that falls through without me scraping it out. So minimal is good! I'm not sure of the volume of harvest I get as I don't pay much attention. Enough for me to serve my indoor garden, indoor plants, and have enough leftover for compost tea for the larger outdoor gardens. I'm going to wildly guess 10gallons/year? I'm not too specific about throughput on my bin, I built it primarily to recycle all my food scraps since my city doesn't have a composting program.
If I was to use conduit or heavy duty fence pipe with 1” spacing could I use push pull sliders on the top of the pipes to scrape the bottom of the pile for harvesting?
I haven't personally tried this, so I can only speculate — but I suspect a setup like this should work. The key really is to just keep a 1" spacing for the castings to fall through.
Jim Fry wrote:Steve,
There are hundreds, probably thousands, of places just begging for folks to come live with them permanently. You just have to do the research to find the right one for you. Spend time reading on ic.org. Or even just read the many "community" listings here on forums. ~~~ Or, you can keep making excuses why getting on the land won't happen for you. Your choice.
Before I got lucky, I was landless and wanted desperately to farm. I lived on an intentional community and loved it, but the community ended up dissolving because of unaddressed mental issues and personal clashes. It was very, very difficult to find another community. Sure, they exist in name, but very few are ideal places to live for anyone, let alone myself personally. I'm gay, on the autism spectrum, and religious. Many other people have similarly complex parts of themselves.
A lot of communities are religiously zealous, or are zealous preppers, or have visions for their farm and what they want to do that are different from what one might want. The community I lived on had advertised itself as wanting to farm, but really, when it came down to it, the other members (who I still love dearly) just wanted a very fancy and pretty, but very small, kitchen garden to show off to their friends from the city. They got anxious about a food forest or anything larger, as they wanted everything to be perfect.
Aaannnyway, I just would like to point out that it's easy to forget how difficult it really is these days for someone without land to acquire it. Even I forget it sometimes, and I just bought my place a few years ago. For someone who loves farming not having land is scary. You are then placed at other peoples' mercy and goodwill. It is a sad position to be in in a country which not too long ago had the tradition of buying a house and starting a family when one was in one's early 20's
1. Purchase land in the forest and clean it up. Contrary to popular opinion, you can cut down almost anything you want down to clear cutting if your heart desires. There are special rules around oaks, but you will not find many (realistically: any) oaks in wildfire prone areas. There are numerous grants available for private landowners to build a more resilient landscape and replant with diverse, fire-hardy species.
2. Join the USFS or CalFire where you will do this work on public lands. All fall/winter/spring most of the effort is spent around cleaning out undergrowth, burning piles, doing controlled burns, and clearing out standing dead.
3. Join the California Conservation Corps https://ccc.ca.gov/ where they will put a chainsaw on your back and send you out to the forest to clean up the forest.
4. Get firewood / Christmas tree permits and harvest your firewood from public lands. There's no rules that say you can't clear out standing dead and smaller trees.
From my own personal experience, I might suggest that one man with a woodchipper is not the right mindset to strive for. A woodchipper may be able to clean up maybe 10 acres a year (I'd guess closer to 5), assuming full time work in a low elevation (no snow) landscape, plentiful funds for gasoline, and mechanical expertise. Wood chippers don't travel well in the forest. But one man with a chainsaw and a can of diesel can clean up hundreds of acres per year with burn piles with similar effort.
There is plentiful motivation from the USFS and California government to clean up their forests. But the scale and terrain of our forests escape human imagination. Thirty three million acres of granite cliffs, flooded valleys, and high elevation bowls with hundreds of feet of standing snow in the winter. If you're passionate about this, I'd suggest to start small and local. Volunteering for CalFire is a great way to get more expertise in the nature and behavior of our wildfire ecosystem.
Perrin Hendrick wrote:Have you looked into carbon steel pans? They're a little thinner than traditional cast iron but once seasoned provide a stick-free smooth cooking surface. They're popular in European kitchens, though because it requires seasoning they haven't made it into the mass market in the states.
Perrin Hendrick wrote:The great thing about carbon steel is the pans are CHEAP! Similar to cast iron you'll also have it for a lifetime.
Funny thing, in my looking around at the Finex, I came across a Carbon Steel line I really like. Though they are not US made they are Australian and they aren't exactly cheap. It's the Solidteknics AUS-ION
* edit to add, I found out they do have US made as well as the Australian. US-ION wrought iron (made in Chicago from clean USA iron) https://solidteknicsusa.com/solidproducts ** edit to add again, a bit more research and I found that the satin finish is not available in the US-Ion only the Aus-Ion. The smooth finish was actually discontinued in the Aus-Ion then reintroduced later, but the satin was taken up due to the smooth finish having trouble with loosing the seasoning. For the smooth finish and US-Ion it is recommended to abraid the cookware with high grit sand paper or steel wool to give the seasoning somewhere to grip. Or if you would prefer the Aus-Ion satin finish and not so worried about US made, you can order Aus-Ion with the satin finish from Amazon.
** in addition the US distribution has nöni ferritic wrought stainless cookware is made in the USA from highly conductive US-made ferritic stainless steel. A new product line they have just started.
This video has me pretty much sold on picking at least some of these up to round out my needs for what I don't have yet with Grizwald and wagner pans.
I might end up getting the full set from Solidteknics, or maybe eventually save up for the Finex. Who knows if I win the lottery I could get sets of both.
Here is a link to their site for anyone interested http://www.solidteknics.com/ion you can also find some of them on Amazon
*edit here is the US distribution https://solidteknicsusa.com/shop
And for those who don't watch videos or click links, here is picture that explains what makes these so interesting.
Alex Arn wrote:During the height of caterpillar season, I love watching hornets hunt on my fava bean and brassica plants. Have not been stung yet.
My paper wasps and mud daubers are tent caterpillar (web worm?) eating fiends. We had a bad year for them, so I was opening the webs up for the wasps, who went in and killed them right and left as soon as they could reach them. The webby stuff kept them out.
My advice is to rent a truck. To be honest, a tiny house on wheels is not the best choice for someone who wants to move their home frequently. They are typically neither aerodynamic, nor easy to tow, and the use of conventional construction techniques on a trailer means that not everything is perfectly suited to towing. When towing them, you will stick out like a sore thumb and better have all your papers in order, which is sometimes difficult with tiny homes.
If you intend to build your tiny home and move between 1 and 5 times with it in your life, I'd say go for it, and rent a truck each time. If you intend to live a life on the road, traveling about and being able to pick up and put down easily, I would say buy an old Airstream camper and retrofit that to be a tiny home. I tend to think of mobile shelter along the following spectrum, from least mobile, to most.
1. A large, permanent structure (a house 1,000 sq. ft or more). It can be moved, but that will cost you and be very difficult.
2. A tiny home built on a foundation (500 sq. ft or less). It can be lifted up and moved fairly easily if built right, but will require professional help and cost a pretty penny.
3. A tiny home on wheels. Can be moved as much as you like, but the stress-factor of moving one, as well as the wear and tear on the house in transit means I wouldn't recommend it more than 5 times in the home's life, preferably 3 or less.
3. An Airstream or other high-quality tow-camper, retrofitted for year-round use. Aerodynamic and built to move. High quality RV's designed for year-round living could be here too, but I don't prefer those for a variety of reasons.
4. A retrofitted van. I've seen folks retrofit Sprinter vans to be fully liveable year-round, with Solar panels and everything.
5. A car and your tent. Doesn't get more mobile than that.
You say you don't want to move it often, but also say every few years. Over a 20-year period, that could be 8-10 times, even more over your lifetime. At this point, since you haven't tangibly invested in anything yet, I would seriously consider trying to find a solid Airstream or other well-built, tow-camper, and retrofit it for year-round use. They are much more aerodynamic, and the frame is built for frequent movement. It may be hard to find a good deal, but if you have a few years of college left, you have the time search. As someone who has built and moved a tiny home, I sometimes wish I had the added mobility and flexibility that a good retrofitted tow-camper would provide.