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Byron- Another interesting video, but right now I'm mostly interested in learning more about the RMH systems.

Fox James - Thanks for the info, and the extended cook plate looks super nice to use
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adjustments do you make personally when going from cooking in a conventional kitchen to on the RMH? What does the flow of preparing a meal look like for you? Are you generally firing the stove
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think so, but you will be running it often or steadily to keep  your mass warmed up.

My other two RMH's are Peter Bergs batchbox design.
Both stoves started out as J tube RMH and I later converted
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as I go along. There is also a solid surface countertop shop in Soldotna where one can source all sorts of amazing materials, but alas they don't come cheap.

 The first RMH will be a 6 inch J
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Byron - Thanks for the specs on the RMH. That is all really helpful information.

Jacob- Thanks for taking time to put in your 2 cents- its super helpful. We are in the process of relocating
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it difficult, but not impossible, to find certain supplies for building a RMH here on the Kenai Peninsula. Clay bricks, as far as I can tell at this point are nearly impossible to locate locally, even
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insulation is better and I would shoot for at least R30 in exterior walls and R50 for the ceiling, and an air-lock entry doors arrangement.

The 8" system size RMH will easily heat my entire house
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Thanks for your response, Byron!

What is your RMH configuration? Do you have a steel barrel? Cob bench? What size is your system (as in the flue pipes- 6", 8")? You mentioned that you primarily
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Hi Eloise, welcome to Permies!

I'm using a RMH for 100% heating a fairly insulated stick-frame 900 sq. ft. house with 450 sp. ft. add-on, but actively heating the main (open floor plan) living
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the way to go. We have never built or even seen one in person, but I am basically planning the whole house around the RMH. As such it seems important to get a little more info on what they are like
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Thanks Jordan!

I am building a RMH in a place I am renting.  So the "sneaky heat" version.  I was thinking this material would be a great under layment to give extra protection to the floor.  I
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Hello RMH friends!

These folks are selling ceramic paper insulation on Craig's list.  They say it is a refractory material.  It looks pretty thin for our work but I think I could layer
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will be packing something up the hill.
I suggest a sled and winch (or a block and tackle) to ease the load.

When building your RMH core area, you will want fireclay/sand  to use in the high heat areas
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It is covered in another thread, or a podcast, about the "Pebble RMH" I think? The issue with sand is that it is a poor conductor of heat (read: insulator) because of all the tiny air spaces
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.

My question is this: Say that you wanted to build a "pseudo-RMH", ideally as clean-burning as a proper RMH. Say that you wanted to do it with a minimum of clay, bricks and similar materials, due
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that I will be able to finish that badge even if I can only attend summer events from now on. Here of some picks from operating a J-Tube RMH and a Batchbox RMH.

Those are some nice photos
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First rule of SKIP Club is that we wanna talk about SKIP Club! All the time!

YAY for more SKIP Clubbers ... Clubbees? Clubites?

Robin I loved your RMH photos! You captured the sideways flame
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accomplished soon.  

If anyone is in the New England area, please be in touch for an extremely likely RMH build coming to a town near you in February...hopefully with Uncle Mud or at least his stunt double
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I’m confident that I will be able to finish that badge even if I can only attend summer events from now on. Here of some picks from operating a J-Tube RMH and a Batchbox RMH.
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Actually, on my garage build I forgot to mention I used a heat gun on the clay flue section in the second photo. It got the draw going pretty well in lieu of a bypass ... I have since taken the top few rows off and laid fire brick for the roof of the fire box to increase the space under the cook surface. I will eventually redo this First Build with fire brick and clay mortar instead of refractory mortar which has cracked a bit already, but I like the bottom part which is like an underneath
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I'm in agreement with Glenn.  While a downdraft is doable, you need a warm vertical chimney to pull a draft strong enough to force the fire to burn downwards.  Hence, the bypass on the stoves I mentioned.  Anything short of that and I think you'll find your living quarters full of wood smoke in record time.
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there was much made of the idea that an RMH does not need a chimney; this was the case in Ianto Evans' location on the Oregon coast with a constant prevailing breeze in one direction and the exhaust
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Re: Downburning wood stoves.  I have seen European designs where the fire burns downwards.  They are beautiful to watch in operation.  To achieve this, the operator starts the fire as normal, but with the flue selector set for "bypass".  Once the flue is warmed up, the selector is set to "downdraft" and the fire is then forced to take a downwards path.  
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warm for hours. I may pour a radiant floor later and heat a tank of water from the RMH for fun.

In my original intuitive design I envisioned a 6" chimney through the wall at either floor or waist
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[quote=Glenn Herbert]Your garage heater follows the basics of Matt's design and works. You mention the draft is weak when cold - as the chimney warms up I would expect it to increase.

Your cabin design is different as you secondary burn chamber is smaller and shorter and the flames will be going down immediately. Your garage heater firebox is similar to the sizing for a 5" batch box, while your cabin design fits a bit less than a 4 1/2" system. 6" flue is way oversized for this, and you[/quote]
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Just to confirm, the wood feed is at the top and when lit the expectation is that the hot gases will draft downward first, then work through the twists and turns to reach the mass and exhaust? Have you tried a dry stack version already, to confirm this will work? It seems incredibly unlikely that it would. But if you start with the wood further down, and have the heat riser come up to the griddle at the top, then the gases could go back down from there. I can't recall ever seeing a design where
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Your garage heater follows the basics of Matt's design and works. You mention the draft is weak when cold - as the chimney warms up I would expect it to increase.

Your cabin design is different as you secondary burn chamber is smaller and shorter and the flames will be going down immediately. Your garage heater firebox is similar to the sizing for a 5" batch box, while your cabin design fits a bit less than a 4 1/2" system. 6" flue is way oversized for this, and you would have slow flow and
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I'm not an expert on Matt's designs, but I don't think you will have any issues with this build other than the fact that red brick will not play well with combustion zones.

Expect the red clay bricks to rapidly crack and disintegrate after multiple firings.  Unless of course I am mistaken and those are an exotic variety of insulated brick I am unfamiliar with.

Red brick is ok for any other part of the build except for where the primary and secondary burns are taking place, and where the
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Hi folks, I've had such success with the Walker design in my garage that I designed this minimal footprint RMH for a small cabin. I wonder, since I haven't built it yet, what you think
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, then over time the mass increases in temperature. As I live, cook, and probably heat with a RMH in the space, the walls and surrounding mass will got up in average temperature.

For a garden heater, you
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/

For the price, have you considered an RMH?

Here are some threads that might be interesting regarding the furnace:

https://permies.com/t/145360/Wood-stove-central-heating

https://permies.com/t/113186
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considered a RMH and yes, we decided on a wood stove instead), and the clearances are 36" to combustibles, and all of the reduction information I can find measures from the stove to the wood studs of a wall
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Does anyone have any input concerning clearances for wood stove installation in a bale-cob house??  We have a Fisher Grandpa Bear (Yes, the house is that big. Yes, we have considered a RMH and yes
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. The perfect wood for us to burn is actually cedar. We can burn it hot and clean and don't have to keep windows open.

If you can swing it, I think you'd be happier with an rmh, too.

This is my
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definitely thought about a rmh but along the lines that the wood stove would not be enough. I never thought about needing it to slow down the burn. I'm not all that concerned with the heat overpowering
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for us to burn is actually cedar. We can burn it hot and clean and don't have to keep windows open.

If you can swing it, I think you'd be happier with an rmh, too.
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[quote]Using ROCKET MASS HEATERS to burn 1/10th the Firewood[/quote]

That is amazing.

And that is such a beautiful RMH that anyone would love to have in their living room.

Thank you
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Hi everybody.I haven't seen answers to any of the questions I have so here goes....
   Zone 6 Greenhouse and RMH build. This is a 120 sq. ft. permanent greenhouse. We will be building a larger
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rmh in the beginning , it will drip "black stuff " from the pipe joints , even though you taped them! Again no big deal, they all do it to a certain extent..
 
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corner. Your RMH will burn better for it.
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, no more than I'm actually gonna need to use it. However, I do have a large hoop house as well and will be building another and would love to plan for larger RMH systems for those.
I ordered the plans
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?
Are you hoping for year round use or just extending the seasons?

No matter what design, style rmh you want to build. Our helpful crew of rocket scientists are eagerly awaiting your questions!



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I have been searching through all of the wonderful information here and I believe my head is now spinning. I am trying to gather everything to build a RMH in my greenhouse....right away. I've seen so
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)  The earth will steal any heat...  Insulating under your pipes is a must.  An 8" RMH can only push 50' horizontal without bends. Adding a fan might help but you would be relying on the power staying on all
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line of related thinking...  I love the idea of having a little sauna in the greenhouse.  If I built a small sauna next to the RMH that shares a side with the heater, might that work?  Or if I inset
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as this is not in a living area.
Is your floor a slab?  Insulated ? I'm guessing it must be. If not, under the rmh needs to be.

As far as plans...   the BB itself, Peter gives the ideal dimensions
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Hi Mike;
Your greenhouse is doing amazing... as is!
What size RMH footprint were you thinking ? A long bench or a taller brick bell ?
I would suggest a straight forward simple B.B. Any
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of how much heat I need to achieve my goals.  The question is if I can do it with a RMH system.

For background, my greenhouse is 20x40 with a 17 foot peak.  R20 insulated N, W and E walls
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two days. I have Ernie and Erica Wisner's RMH design information, which it seems is the most current design information (??), but that doesn't cover greenhouse issues.

I am researching options
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be very low in a well-functioning RMH, but at start and coaling stage at the end of a burn it will be higher, and if conditions are not good it might become an issue at other times. Best not to take
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during the winter I might be able to keep it going year round in these smaller stages. When I scale up serious I'm leaning towards a walipini! That should make the RMH far more feasible! I've been up all
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small I will just utilize the warmer months then hope to move into a bigger greenhouse with adjoined fish house and the works next winter.  I'm sort of feeling out the feasibility of the RMH
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://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oDpmmsqHwQ This is a safe way to make hot water with a rmh.  https://permaculturenews.org/2012/11/23/rocket-stove-hot-water/

Giving  a larger gap to the riser would lower
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Hi Rocketeers,

short but important question about the draft of a Rocket in a Huge !!! Greenhouse

I have already build 16 RMH before I build my 2 last ones I have the question on. I also have
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[quote=thomas rubino]Sounds to me Dina, that you have caught the BUG!!!  OH NO, No hope for you ....  Now you will have to build a RMH!!  
Looks like your down in the Salmon area.  To get up[/quote]
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.  Hopefully my compost will work but if not, now I know where to begin my RMH research.  Thanks!
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and clouds at that time of year.
We love our rmh in the studio / greenhouse , it is evenly warm thru the whole building, not the typical hot by the stove and freezing by the wall wood stove effect
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Hi Mike;
Your asking for a lot... In an insulated home 2 fires a day is plenty , in an uninsulated greenhouse... that really won't cut it in winter.  RMH Jtubes burn 45-60 minutes , batchbox rmh
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Sounds to me Dina, that you have caught the BUG!!!  OH NO, No hope for you ....  Now you will have to build a RMH!!  
Looks like your down in the Salmon area.  To get up to where we are, its a long
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[quote=thomas rubino]Hi Dina;  Possibly the book you are referring to is the original Rocket mass heater book by Ianto Evans  & Linda Jackson. For years this was the RMH book of choice. Its still[/quote]
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Hi Dina;  Possibly the book you are referring to is the original Rocket mass heater book by Ianto Evans  & Linda Jackson. For years this was the RMH book of choice. Its still a good choice
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Enjoying and appreciating this thread. We're considering a lean-to greenhouse up against the south wall of our barn/workshop, with the RMH inside the barn itself and near the wall where
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greenhouse built around the RMH concept, I would gift him a set of the DVDs purchased from Paul,......but was hoping there would be something specific to integration of RMH technology with a greenhouse
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and seasonal Summer rains. As to building a RMH in your yard and extending the use of your living space accordingly, I strongly agree with the principal lifestyle benefits this could bring.

Google
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apply right up until you begin to get those regular Spring and seasonal Summer rains. As to building a RMH in your yard and extending the use of your living space accordingly, I strongly agree
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orchids and all the delicious veggies of my wife...

..- I want a batch box because due to our activity we won't have 2 hours to spend each day to maintain a J tube RMH...

JY

You need
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are at play here. In direct answer to Joanna Sheldon's concerns, it appears the addition of a RMH––as a retrofit––is not particularly appropriate for this purpose in a greenhouse of this scale. It should
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in the Spring. In Summer, the front flap rolls back and the process starts all over again.

Running a RMH vent tube parallel along this division seems like a phenomenal approach to consider. That said
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for greenhouse and RMH) nearly all materials are recycled, begged, borrowed or stolen, well not stolen just bought really cheap!!!!

main reason for my post is I'm having issues with the RMH. when first
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Hello

French newbie here both in greenhouses and RMH.
Just moved from an unnice foreign country to southwest of France and bought a relatively big piece of land.

My wife (asian origin
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me further to develop RMH? If possible in separate thread, to not mix all the things

Thank you
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, this was about 18 hours later after laying the brick. During this time of work on the mass the RMH is in continuous burn mode and it is working well. The mass is not complete so we cannot expect it to perform
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in the greenhouse proper. I have seen several designs and I think one or two installations like that.

The issue with CO2 injection from a RMH exhaust, aside from health risks to animals, is that there are some
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I have seen some concerns with Greenhouse RMH operation side effects.

1 RMH pulls needed moisture out of greenhouse

2 pulls heat out of greenhouse after burn are complete

3 potentially pulls
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I see you have learned by experience why clay chimney liners are not generally used in the combustion zone of an RMH
They can withstand a lot of heat, but not the fast temperature changes you get
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This is my first ever RMH build. This is a solo experience, going slow, one baby step at a time.....
I have the current photos and a video of this Greenhouse RMH build on our fb page @ https
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B-jump Big AL

Link Below :


https://permies.com/t/51336/rocket-stoves/Sulfuric-Acid-Greenhouse-RMH
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house.
With this in mind we ran too exhausts out of the RMH going in two different directions.
We have not fired it up yet.
My question is: Is it OK to have two exhausts and should both of them
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Just a word of warning...

If you've been watching Bigelow Brook Farm's Youtube videos, you'll know he's been experimenting with an automatic pellet feeder for his RMH that heats his geodesic dome
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get there just below the very 1st video
you have the opportunity to click-on a [Playlists] tab, you are there to see the Rocket Mass Heater RMH Playlist- you probably will get lost in this site
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kit to incorporate a rocket mass heater. After 3 days of "real world" use, I can mark the project as a success.

The RMH functions perfectly at a thermal mass temp of 90F and the pot on the top
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Michael R. :O. K., Go to the [MY PROFILE] spot in the Permies toolbox and upgrade your personal information, who knows a Fellow member With Cob and RMH
experience may be a near neighbor
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with having our younger son here this past weekend was to be able to kick around the RMH project with him. And probably the most useful realization that father-son discussion brought me was this: we've
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, and a final storm cap! Then you can run the
stove pipe to just over everyones heads as they stand on the deck, and see if that is adequate !

With the 8'' RMH system we started out with approximately 50
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Big Al: I'm back!

You asked for photos of the window with measurements. Now you see inside and outside. We were planning to glass block this window once we had decided how the RMH piping would
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Jeff F. : Your fellow members can only propose possible solutions to your problems, in the final event the choices are yours !

As designed your RMH will deliver a very efficient, very clean high
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in your green house will be to figure out how to get things up off of the floor and save your
back! Here is where the Rocket Mass Heater RMH, shines, You will have ready-made benches, and heated
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you make in your green house will be to figure out how to get things up off of the floor and save your
back! Here is where the Rocket Mass Heater RMH, shines, You will have ready-made benches
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to talk to you about suspending mylar sheets above the fish tanks and RMH There is a aluminized material that comes looking like big sheets
of Shinny bubble-wrap, this waterfall reflects back 85
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. The only reason we were thinking we needed to keep it open was for heat radiation. But if we close it off, and then have side walls, our area is then 12 x 20. Is that too small for a RMH?
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plans for expanding are ! while ! am convinced that one 8'' RMH system can heat the combined areas to the temperate required
for the temperatures needed by your lettuce and kale this is two big
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will be form the RMHs interior to
its outside. The Flat Top which can be sloped for drainage can be as large/massive as you want, having the top of the RMH available for use as a Seed-
starting
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hard to keep track of where I saw what. I had not seen the Site Planning page, and that is pretty deep; a child adoption questionnaire, I imagine, is probably as detailed.

As far as RMH location
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would turn the RMH around to have the Feed tube close to the door that the wood is coming in! I cannot see why the common wall is not
the best location. Your entire RMH is going to be about 15' long
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the garage. Perhaps this will make more sense as to why I positioned the RMH where I did. Putting it on the east wall would prevent easy egress in and out of the garage.

I visited the VillageVideo
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this is pretty well set, then this space should be heated with a Regular 6'' RMH System!

This leaves a space 80' Xs 26' available for use to extend Your Growing season by 3-4 weeks , however you
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around it yet. I had already started gathering "stuff" for the RMH - so I have an 8" heavy metal pipe and access to as many fire bricks AND red bricks as needed (thanks to a friend who used to work
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This was something i had wanted to do as well , we have a frost season and it is usually over a night ,so i was hoping to mitigate the effects on some of the fruit trees without a long term use or enviroment damage, the smudge smoke does seem to have been purposely been part of it, the belief being it created a smog blanket , not read anything  to prove or disprove  this yet .Seen these being used ,very popular in germany as patio/garden heaters so i thought if it was upscaled a bit or a bigger
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RMH heated tank that sprays automatically at a certain temp might be an option too.
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for trees?

You're right that it would be nice to have data about temperatures at various distances from an outside RMH. The effect of the "smudge pots" with oil in them used in citrus orchards
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I went and read about how the old pots worked and what has been replacing them.
I want to see if the smoke was considered a bug or a feature.
I was concerned that it was contributing to the heat transfer/ distribution.
Seeing as the smudge pots are being replaced with "clean burning" propane, it seems that the smoke isn't important.

You could build individual rockets with bells for long term radiant heat, or you could build a single rocket powered "boiler", heat up a mass of water and
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and a heat retaining berm behind. Might be right up your alley.

Another thought is a large high tunnel that can utilized during the cold nights and then left open the rest of the year. A RMH inside
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berm behind. Might be right up your alley.

Another thought is a large high tunnel that can utilized during the cold nights and then left open the rest of the year. A RMH inside would do a lot more
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I am a RMH newbie looking for some sage advice from the old hands.

I grew up around orchards that used "smudge pots" (pots of oil) on freezing nights to keep from losing citrus trees
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I fired up the RMH stovetop at Cooper Cabin and made Wez and myself some oatmeal for breakfast the Sunday before the Master Gardener event started up.
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Yeah, a "rocket cooktop" is generally a combination of a RMH and a smooth top cooking surface.  Check out the photos in the first post for some examples.  I don't think adding a glass top to your
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the obvious steps that I would love to take - RMH, secondary glazing, insulating the walls etc... The windows are absolutely huge and single glazed. Plus we rent, which adds another layer of difficulty
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the obvious steps that I would love to take - RMH, secondary glazing, insulating the walls etc... The windows are absolutely huge and single glazed. Plus we rent, which adds another layer of difficulty
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be overwhelming. If you have a well insulated house and a very efficient stove or best of all an RMH, the wood processing could be easily manageable.
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the obvious steps that I would love to take - RMH, secondary glazing, insulating the walls etc... The windows are absolutely huge and single glazed. Plus we rent, which adds another layer of difficulty
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that I would love to take - RMH, secondary glazing, insulating the walls etc... The windows are absolutely huge and single glazed. Plus we rent, which adds another layer of difficulty.

Our current
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I started and operated the batch box RMH for an hour at Cooper Cabin while staying there for the 2022 Garden Master course.
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Here is my submission for the Rocket - Sand - Start and Operate a Batch Box Rocket BB.

As the SkIP event winds down, I headed to Cooper Cabin to light the rocket batch box there.

To document the completion of the BB, I have provided the following:

       o pic of starting materials, PROPERLY placed in the batch box before fire
       o pic of fire started to warm the riser - at the back (left) of the batch box
       o pic of additional wood added
       o pic of even more
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Batch box firing.
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Cooper Cabin Batch Box Light-Up!
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At the 2019 PEP Jamboree, I had rockets coming out of my ears, including running the Batch Box in the shop:
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/t/100703/a/93451/thumb-3EB9B4F5-A8B4-40A5-8B06-5875632DF290.jpeg

These are my starting materials properly placed in the RMH.

https://permies.com/t/100703/a/93450/thumb-ACABEA1C-5EAD
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I now realize I misread the first requirement of a "pic of starting materials, PROPERLY placed in the batch box before the fire."  Looks like I mistakenly took a "pic of starting material before fire."  I mean, properly was even all caps.
Placing the pics here anyway.  It's a very nice heater for the classroom.
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First time using a rocket mass heater. Really enjoyed it and liked learning about the way these operate. It did great no smoke out of the door and the priming caught the small tipi initial fire so it helped to get it primed and hot enough to start sucking the smoke in more aggressively before having to open the door to add more wood.
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Part B, adding fuel
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Part A, starting the batch box in the workshop
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The workshop down at base camp at the pep1 event.
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After two unsuccessful operations of the cyclone batch box heater in the Red Cabin, Paul suggested checking the chimney for blockages.  Sure enough, it was 75% blocked off by ash.  Cleaned out the elbow, cleaned the pipe, replaced the elbow with a tee and cobbed it in place.  Started it up and it was worlds better.  
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This is my operation of a Batch Box RMH at the PEP 1 course.
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threads on Batch Box Rocket Mass Heaters:
  - Batchbox RMH from Innovators Event
  - [url=https://permies.com/t/53809
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threads on Batch Box Rocket Mass Heaters:
  - Batchbox RMH from Innovators Event
  - [url=https://permies.com/t/53809
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would then be the battery in the system.  

So instead of buying lots of solar panels and batteries, you could use some of these engines running off a heat difference generated by solar or RMH
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https://scontent-mrs2-2.xx.fbcdn.net/v/t39.30808-6/269621108_10209369710917163_8855952511762634670_n.jpg?_nc_cat=102&ccb=1-5&_nc_sid=8bfeb9&_nc_ohc=ME43fEtimyAAX-x_4EO&_nc_ht=scontent-mrs2-2.xx&oh=00_AT-m8l4mDEGP0BqIl5TTVYpF_t_J118RlvtvXFefkjMiAA&oe=61E9B0A0

Top of my lift a fortnight ago. It is a smidge better now, but barely!
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[quote=Satamax Antone]I wished we had a dump of snow! [/quote]

I feel your pain my friend…😎
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I wished we had a dump of snow!
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[quote=Fox James]Lovely looking mountain …..[/quote]

It’s defiantly a powerful part of the landscape…
🏔😎🏔
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into the feed tube of my RMH and become fuel to heat our space.

I’m far from a purist when it comes to this stuff and I’m all about short cuts, but the miles I’m putting in right now is teaching me so
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Lovely looking mountain …..
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Thank you for the great update! That frozen water situation looks rough! Is that space not in an insulated area, just too far from the heat? I once had a bathroom that was at a far corner of a house, over an uninsulated space that was too short to get into, and the water pipe could freeze unless I left the faucet slowly dripping or blew a space heater in (water was far cheaper). I wonder if one of those heat differential fans people put on their stoves could blow warm air from the top of the
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Thought I’d give a bit of an update.

We are part way through our first real winter of using our RMH full time and I’ll have to say it’s been a real pleasure. We are in about a meter and a half
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[quote=Gerry Parent]Hey Pete & Co.
That gives a whole new meaning to batt insulation. Well done utilizing inexpensive and natural materials to achieve a simple goal.
Will you be covering them up with  anything or going with the ‘truth window’ look?[/quote]

Hey Gerry!

These are gonna be left as is. Brutal truth on this one. Like I said before the old house is really on its last leg so I’ve decided to just use it as a build experiment. See how materials preform without much investment
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Hey Pete & Co.
That gives a whole new meaning to batt insulation. Well done utilizing inexpensive and natural materials to achieve a simple goal.
Will you be covering them up with  anything or going with the ‘truth window’ look?
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Hey folks!

Hope all is well in the holiday season.

Here’s a quick few pictures of what we did with the rice hull bags for insulation. In the end we didn’t even use the sewing machine yet. Just filled the bags to the top, covered with a piece of newspaper and then snitched the bags shut.

Took some string and cable nails and just strapped all the bags to the walls. Seems to be working well. Total cost for rice hulls, bags, string and nails under $60 I think.

Likely start
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[quote=Fox James]I have a cat that likes doing that, my tip is give him some water …[/quote]

Cool set up by the way Mr. James!🐈‍⬛
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Think a pile of rocks might be in order! And a big bowl of water…🔥🐕🔥
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Perhaps a heat shield in that area?
... or maybe even something uncomfortable for her to lay on in that spot ?
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I have a cat that likes doing that, my tip is give him some water …
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Any thoughts on what to do with a dog that insists on sitting too close to the drum barrel for extremely long periods of time?

Half joking, not joking…🐕🤔🐕
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[quote=Phil Stevens]Is it possible that salt from soaking in seawater is what's causing it to spall? I'd try soaking the remaining pieces in fresh water, possibly several times, to draw out the salt.[/quote]

Hey Phil,

That’s definitely a possibility with the bricks I found in the ocean. And a good call if I plan to use them for anything. I’ve had those bricks on the bench drying for over a week and they are still wet! Will try soaking in rain water for a while. Then maybe put them on top
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[quote=Satamax Antone]Peter, i'm just using available materials.

The air entrained concrete is called "siporex" here. The refractory slabs are stuff sold in Italy, on the other side of the border from me. 50x50x6cm. Made for pizza ovens. It's a bit expensive. 170 uros of slabs, when i made that one. And the refractory tubes are pieces of schiedel chimneys. I got that cheap at the time. But it's far from perfect. Peter van den berg, on his latest prototype, might have found better.  [/quote]
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Is it possible that salt from soaking in seawater is what's causing it to spall? I'd try soaking the remaining pieces in fresh water, possibly several times, to draw out the salt.
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Peter, i'm just using available materials.

The air entrained concrete is called "siporex" here. The refractory slabs are stuff sold in Italy, on the other side of the border from me. 50x50x6cm. Made for pizza ovens. It's a bit expensive. 170 uros of slabs, when i made that one. And the refractory tubes are pieces of schiedel chimneys. I got that cheap at the time. But it's far from perfect. Peter van den berg, on his latest prototype, might have found better.  
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[quote=Satamax Antone][quote=Peter Sedgwick]
You never have issues with your IFB in your batchbox floor?

🤙🏽Pete🤙🏿[/quote]

My batch hasn't IFB in the batch. But hard firebrick slabs, surrounded by air entrained concrete

https://permies.com/t/44806/a/67548/thumb-WP_001536.jpg[/quote]

Ok, cool.

So your material set up is rather similar to mine.
You’re making your own IFB using aircreate made with refractory castable material?

Just need something to create a bit
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[quote=Peter Sedgwick]
You never have issues with your IFB in your batchbox floor?

🤙🏽Pete🤙🏿[/quote]

My batch hasn't IFB in the batch. But hard firebrick slabs, surrounded by air entrained concrete

https://permies.com/t/44806/a/67548/thumb-WP_001536.jpg
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Roger that Max!

It’s all worth a try.

At the end of the day, the “floor” brick is just there to protect the CFB insulation underneath from getting damaged. that’s what’s doing the heavy lifting.  But if I can make that floor brick more insulative and less heat retaining the better.

You never have issues with your IFB in your batchbox floor?

🤙🏽Pete🤙🏿
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Hi Peter, i was thinking about the IFB you found in the sea.

Crushed IFB as a mineral charge for your mortar, if it is insulative, that's even better. Clay as a binding agent,

and rice hulls as fiber reinforcement. The closest to the fire, these gonna burn. and leave tiny voids which will increase the insulation factor.  And further away, they gonna transform as carbon, which might help with strength. Ans even further it might say as fibers.

Dat's all theory!
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[quote=Satamax Antone]Peter, one thing which crossed my mind.

Crush these dying isolite bricks, mix it with good clay and rice hulls.  To pour your feed tube bottom. I would try to put a sacrificial piece of steel over that, for a few days, to fire the "slab"

I wonder if you could wash some of that clay, to make a nice clean one.

[IMG]https://permies.com/t/122458/a/90374/IMG_3666.jpeg[/quote]

That’s a pretty groovy idea Max!

And one worth trying I think.
The IFBs I
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Peter, one thing which crossed my mind.

Crush these dying isolite bricks, mix it with good clay and rice hulls.  To pour your feed tube bottom. I would try to put a sacrificial piece of steel over that, for a few days, to fire the "slab"

I wonder if you could wash some of that clay, to make a nice clean one.

[IMG]https://permies.com/t/122458/a/90374/IMG_3666.jpeg
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Well, isn't it just spalling?

Iirc, it has been in water for a while?

What I could imagine, is the core of the brick being wetter than the outside, and not reacting the same.
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Insulated Fire Brick (IFB) floor replacement turned out to be a total bust, both literally and figuratively.

It’s been about 10 days of regular burning, probably 6-7 hours a night. The IFB I cut and replaced has crumbled like a stale cookie. Not expected.

Wondering what might be the cause. IFB I used is a Japanese domestic brand made locally rated to a temp of 1500°C (2732°F) used “for Hot Surface and Back-up lining insulation.”

ISOLITE LBK 28

Here is a link for
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What this males me think, earth rice bags!
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On topic, off topic…

This tread is really about our RMH build, but part of that is the space we are heating. As you might know our “shack” in the woods is anything but well insulated
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[quote=Satamax Antone]Vacuum cleaner! I do that for flies! [/quote]

Hey Max!

Vacuum cleaner for sure!

These bugs are everywhere here and even more so in the mountains. They come in durning the fall to hibernate and find a way in through any crack or crevice they can. Have a feeling they are likely to build up somewhere around the 45 bend in our exiting flue pipe. Push them down with the bush and then use vacuum to clean out at the bottom from our newly cut door just above the 90°
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Vacuum cleaner! I do that for flies!
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BTW, did remove the screen the other day. What I was trying to keep out of the pipes, mainly, where these “stink bugs”. These things are next level here in the fall. We end up with about this many of them on the windowsill every three or four days. Now it’s getting too cold so they aren’t as active but for about a month it’s pretty intense. I guess the best solution will be periodic brushing and checking, so they don’t clog up the system.
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Here’s a few things I’ve been doing in my spare time, that seem rather good, so I thought I’d share.

Had to move the stove thermometer that was stuck in my vertical flue pipe to check internal exiting gas temps. Original one was just stuck in without any sealant, but this time it seemed a bit loose so I used a bit of flue pipe sealant, that I  bought a while back and never used. Package says it’s for sealing stove pipe joints, heating vents and car exhaust pipes. Rated to 1100°C. Has the
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[quote=Gerry Parent] Hey Pete I would be very careful with that strainer on the end of the chimney pipe as fly ash will quickly plug it up and you will be back to having smoke in the house again!
Very coarse screening is about all you can get away with to prevent birds and critters from getting down the pipe.

Yes, soot is just a natural byproduct of wood combustion and still needs to be cleaned from pipes every so often.
It is soft, powdery and is removed easily.  On the other hand[/quote]
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Hey Pete I would be very careful with that strainer on the end of the chimney pipe as fly ash will quickly plug it up and you will be back to having smoke in the house again!
Very coarse screening is about all you can get away with to prevent birds and critters from getting down the pipe.

Yes, soot is just a natural byproduct of wood combustion and still needs to be cleaned from pipes every so often.
It is soft, powdery and is removed easily.  On the other hand creosote is hard and
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By the way, I did make a DIY chimney brush last week and swept and cleaned from top to bottom throughout just to make sure there was nothing in the flue.

Here are the two bowls full of what was in the pipes. Larger bowl is from the first cleaning, smaller bowl is from the second cleaning after the chimney sweep.

This would be soot correct?

Found more ISB washed up on the beach the other day. Have a feeling the might have come from some kind of industrial plant near by. Going to
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Here’s my tie wire solution to the foil tape issue. Ran two lines of wire, one on each side of the barrel joint. Then twisted to get it snug. I used small pieces of duct tape to hold the wire in place at the start then I went around the barrel moving the wire closer to the lip to create a snugger fit. Once the wire was in what I thought was the best position I pulled really hard and twisted the wire till there was no more slack. Removed duct tape after that.

I am sure a barrel clamp would
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[quote=Byron Campbell]Hi Peter, Maybe the adhesive had gotten to old, dried out some, on your aluminum tape. I used a generic inexpensive aluminum tape rated for 350°F, and didn't have any trouble with it sticking to both the barrels (painted) and the flu pipe seams (bare metal ducting pipes) in the thermal mass bench.

To seal the main barrel to the lower half-barrel, small strips of aluminum tape are used to hold the rope gasket temporarily in place, then it is completely covered with[/quote]
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[quote=Gerry Parent] Yes the band clamp works great.  I personally didn’t need one because one of my barrels was slightly smaller than the other and they fit together perfectly with a friction fit.
I secured my rope gasket to one of the barrels with furnace cement.  I previously used high heat silicone as well with good results. [/quote]

Good to know…

Cheers Gerry😎
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[quote=Satamax Antone]Peter, you need to find this, for metal barrels.

https://containers-service.eu/1541-superlarge_default/fut-30-litres-plastique-bleu-ouverture-totale.jpg

https://www.google.fr/search?q=metal+barrel+lid+clamp&tbm=isch

And for your tape, clean with acetone.
[/quote]

Cool Max! Gotcha.
I’ll see what I can find. Acetone…👍🏽

Thanks
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Yes the band clamp works great.  I personally didn’t need one because one of my barrels was slightly smaller than the other and they fit together perfectly with a friction fit.
I secured my rope gasket to one of the barrels with furnace cement.  I previously used high heat silicone as well with good results.
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Hi Peter, Maybe the adhesive had gotten to old, dried out some, on your aluminum tape. I used a generic inexpensive aluminum tape rated for 350°F, and didn't have any trouble with it sticking to both the barrels (painted) and the flu pipe seams (bare metal ducting pipes) in the thermal mass bench.

To seal the main barrel to the lower half-barrel, small strips of aluminum tape are used to hold the rope gasket temporarily in place, then it is completely covered with aluminum tape. The barrel
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Peter, you need to find this, for metal barrels.

https://containers-service.eu/1541-superlarge_default/fut-30-litres-plastique-bleu-ouverture-totale.jpg

https://www.google.fr/search?q=metal+barrel+lid+clamp&tbm=isch

And for your tape, clean with acetone.
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[quote=Gerry Parent] I think you answered your own question beautifully Peter.  All of your observations have been very similar to my own.
In those places that experience expansion and contraction or of dis-similar materials coming together that you would like to seal, a thin layer of ceramic fibre blanket works great.  Often goes by the name of ceramic fibre paper.
I’ve also used woodstove gasket rope with good success as well.[/quote]

That makes sense Gerry.

Where exactly would I
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I think you answered your own question beautifully Peter.  All of your observations have been very similar to my own.
In those places that experience expansion and contraction or of dis-similar materials coming together that you would like to seal, a thin layer of ceramic fibre blanket works great.  Often goes by the name of ceramic fibre paper.
I’ve also used woodstove gasket rope with good success as well.
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Here’s something that’s been puzzling me.

At the moment, no matter what I try or how I try to apply, “high temperature” aluminum foil tape will not stick very well to my barrels. I have tried 3M and numerous Japanese high temperature tape brands none of them seem to work. All the packages say the tape is rated to around 315°C. My infrared thermometer says that the barrel where the tape is applied is not even close to that but did he sieve refuses to stick. I’ve cleaned the surfaces with
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Here’s a quick look at my CFB riser extension project I did today.

Pretty straight forward. Just a few hand tools and a bit of squaring up with my trusty rusty sheet of metal. Decided to use some screws to hold this one together. Not even stainless, but I figure they won’t be a problem cause they are counter sunk “outside” the fire box and imbedded in CFB. Didn’t brake any rules.🔥 think stewing in with your fingers as far as you can is the way to go. Not using any pressure and letting the
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Sounds great Byron!

I’ll take a look at the height of the present heat riser figure out what makes sense for an extension based on the scraps of CFB that I have then calculate accordingly.

Will keep you posted with the dimensions that I am proposing and see what you think.

Thanks again as always.

Peter

P.S. I’m super dyslexic so I use the dictation feature on my phone and sometimes I miss spelling mistakes etc. I apologize if it causes confusion😋
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at the 150mm RMH brick layout with dimensions on page 98 of the Wisner's The Rocket Mass Heater Builder's Guide, which calls for up to a 38 cm feed in that example. And on page 96, a 6" system with 16" feed
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Here’s my upgraded version for the bottom brick in our J tube. No matter what I did for mixing castable refractory the bottom brick always ends up spalling and just crumbling to pieces so I decided to take one of the insulated fire bricks I had and cut it to fit inside and create a new floor.

I just used some common handtools and a Diamond blade disk grinder. First I split the brick so that it was the proper height to match my original brick height. Then, working off of the custom wood mold
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[quote=Byron Campbell]General rule of thumb: divide the height of the heat riser by 3, and make the feed tube that height (depth). Firewood sold here in the US, sold by the cord (4 x 4 x 8 feet) and face-cord ( 1/3 rd of a cord or 4 x 8 feet x 16 inch long sticks) is therefor commonly cut to a length of 16" (40 cm). So it is mostly a matter of convenience that a RMH's wood feed depth is made 16" (40 cm)  provided the heat riser is at least 48" (120 cm) tall.

Sized as such, the wood will be[/quote]
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General rule of thumb: divide the height of the heat riser by 3, and make the feed tube that height (depth). Firewood sold here in the US, sold by the cord (4 x 4 x 8 feet) and face-cord ( 1/3 rd of a cord or 4 x 8 feet x 16 inch long sticks) is therefor commonly cut to a length of 16" (40 cm). So it is mostly a matter of convenience that a RMH's wood feed depth is made 16" (40 cm)  provided the heat riser is at least 48" (120 cm) tall.

Sized as such, the wood will be surrounded on all four
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Do have one question. Like I said I have extra pieces of CFB laying around and I could add an extension to my riser, but to be honest the stove seems to be working relatively well is there any advantage to adding a riser extension?

I’m thinking, as I believe Glenn and others pointed out, that extending the riser would allow me to make the feed tube longer. That’s the only advantage I could possibly think of.

There is absolutely no draft issues at this point no matter what the weather is.
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Just at the local picking up some stuff and saw these for sale.

Opinions at the local country “home center” down the road for wood burning stoves here in Hokkaido. When we tell people we are heating with wood this is the normal “tin can” everyone assumes you are heating with.

Average cost of one of these units is around $60-$80 USD.

Also an assortment of different types of flue pipes, ducks, vents, and valves.

Not a lot of options.

Lots of people use kerosene space heaters
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As you can see here, Chimi&Chunga are extremely excited about the resurrection of our young dragon!

🔥🔥🔥🔥
🔥🐕🐕🔥
🔥🔥🔥🔥
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Expand View 55 more matching posts found in this thread
/wiki/108970/rocket-mass-heaters-documentary-minutes]About 12 rocket mass heaters documentary and how to buy it


https://permies.com/t/61077/a/75339/rmh-tour-collage-1.jpg
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/wiki/108970/rocket-mass-heaters-documentary-minutes]About 12 rocket mass heaters documentary and how to buy it


https://permies.com/t/61077/a/75339/rmh-tour-collage-1.jpg
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kitchen and parking:
FYI based on what we did in October at the RMH Jamboree at Wheaton Labs, you can build an outdoor kitchen and storage space for pretty cheap. We built an outdoor kitchen
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an indoor firewood drying chamber (to a RMH, masonry heater, stand-alone?), for "finishing" our firewood?

I'm not thinking a kiln for green wood, but one day's/two day's/a week's supply of already
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[quote=Glenn Herbert]The problem with UL listing is that they only cover complete appliances, not components like a core. It would be pretty much impossible to get a UL listed RMH, as far as I can[/quote]
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The problem with UL listing is that they only cover complete appliances, not components like a core. It would be pretty much impossible to get a UL listed RMH, as far as I can tell.

Some products
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I don't think that is actually such a big difference. Yes, the surface water in RMH wood is driven off before the wood gets into the burn tunnel and burns, but if there were less water, the radiated
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There is a major difference in how the wood is loaded in a RMH vs other wood stoves.  With a RMH the wood is external to the combustion chamber and exposed to the heat of the stove.  This allows
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. As I see most RMHs built with a standard steel barrel I can't imagine that barrel lasting very long at those 1300 - 1500 degree temperatures. I have seen some cases where people have taken there RMH
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Glenn, thanks for the invitation! How do I give you my email so you can let me know when your RMH is up and running & open for a visit?
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I am just east of Binghamton, NY, not exactly central PA but close. My home RMH is nearing completion but not quite operational yet, and I would be happy to show it off later in the summer or fall. I
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I live in central PA. Does anyone reading this who operates a RMH live in central PA? I would love to come visit you to see how this thing really works and if it might be something we could
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It's good to be investigating the theoretical basis for improved combustion. There are a couple of points you mention here that want clarification, though. Holes 2 and 3 are primarily covered in RMH
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. Now thanks to your excellent post I will have a much taller pedestal to stand on while I preach the virtues of replacing every other wood burner with a RMH !
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seed
dried beans
multiple herbs
As others noted I can do some sprouts.  I already have a big bag of sunflower seeds for just this reason and my RMH is great for gentle warmth for sprouting them!

I
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I've acquired all of the materials for the yurt, and most of what is needed for a RMH as well as a solar charging station. The frame for the yurt was erected, but flaws in the design became apparent
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to utilizing Rocket Mass Heaters to ride to Montana a couple of weeks back and join in the brainstorming sessions at Mr. Wheaton's neighborhood of make-it-real (RMH Jamboree at Wheaton Labs). I consulted
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discussions elsewhere.

I'm not foreseeing food and shelter being much of a priority conflict. My general priority with the land is going to be a modest structure with an RMH to have something going for next
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Sorry, I'm of no help there as far a moving heat passively. Everything is on one floor level here, with a more or less centrally located, along one wall, RMH (6" batch-box + thermal mass bench
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I can't resist pretty snow pictures, and here's one that the new Boot at Wheaton Labs took (check out Jeff's Bootcamp thread here!)

https://permies.com/t/172890/a/165424/thumb-IMG_20220108_171204714.jpg alt="rocket mass heater Teepee in snow"
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Here's the epic tipi gate in the snow (thank you Lara for the beautiful picture!)

https://permies.com/t/156408/a/140103/thumb-350_490B8A9E-C9A6-4C6C-8CC5-AA3ED35A31D2.jpeg width=350 alt="junkpole tipi gate in the snow"

And Kyle took this picture of the tipi looking so cozy and
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I love the new tip gate that Jen posted!

https://permies.com/t/155843/a/137983/thumb-signal-2021-03-31-122308.jpg alt="roundwood gate with tipi triangle design"
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Last night was my last night in it before our new boot arrives to stay in it for the rest of the summer. I loved sleeping out there. Nights definitely got down in the 20s inside, but last weekend, with a lot of wood and milder temps outside (40s?), I had it up to 67F.

I had a little cast iron pan I'd heat up my breakfast in on the stove top, and a kettle for my water. Those were both about all I needed for simple breakfast/dinner fare.

I strung up a rope around the poles inside in a star
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She took a great video of starting up the rocket mass heater in the tipi, too!

https://youtu.be/H-Aduf-PAzM
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-PXL_20210225_180635317.jpg alt="cob rocket mass heater inside tipi"

https://permies.com/t/155843/a/133827/thumb-PXL_20210225_181533198.MP.jpg alt="cozy bed inside RMH tipi"

https
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The rmh isn't working too good, so we pop off the barrel to have a look:

https://youtu.be/K_cCoR0zsqU

The gap is a bit tight - so it gets widened.  Eventually we open a bunch
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New photos of the wheaton labs Tipi!!!

https://permies.com/t/99161/a/83390/thumb-536F69BC-E4EE-4787-834E-785BC3D657A5.jpeg

https://permies.com/t/99161/a/83393/thumb-10D45D7D-B4D4-49CC-9DE9-745336C973D3.jpeg

https://permies.com/t/99161/a/83385/thumb-C71D0971-8EAD-4CA4-ADB1-BE44E81D05A8.jpeg
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This is about an hour from the DVD mashed into eight minutes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A9xyEFY__TM
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From the cutting room floor of the dvd building a cob style rocket mass heater.  This is 45 minutes of the intro and outro for the tipi build.   About 35 minutes more than what is in the dvd.   So bonus footage that could not fit on the dvd:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XG249gPmvI0
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We talk a bit about the tipi:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F67ha6dIuvs
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For a cob house, you need to be very sure of the quality of your clay. For a cob bench, as long as it acts like clay, sticky and pliable without cracking when wetted, it will work fine.

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from folks who have tried it. Perhaps I'll ask in a thread about non-rocket stoves.
Maybe next time when we have more time and space we can try the RMH with the cob bench - we've never made cob before
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Thel, I think that trying to use the earth as your mass won't work very well.  There's too much moisture, which has an almost limitless ability to absorb heat.  I would recommend a pebble style RMH
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You can rent the video for three bucks.  Seems pretty cheap to me.
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Hi there! I've mostly read through this thread documenting this build and many others. I don't have much money for purchasing books or DVDs at this time, but I would love to eventually. So I've just been reading forums and watching videos the past couple of weeks because it's getting cold and we're starting the build this Sunday. Thanks!
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Have you watched the DVD that documents this build?

Have you read erica's book?
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Hi there! I've spent the past few weeks reading through permies rocket heaters forums, but this is my first post--wish me luck!
Some folks & I are planning to build a heater in a tipi at an encampment started by a Native American tribe in New Jersey. The camp is standing in solidarity with Standing Rock and in resistance to a gas pipeline that is threatening the water and communities of the Northeast region. Campers will be staying in tipis and tents throughout the winter. They have some wood
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Entering the tipi guests usually react with, 'Oohs' and 'How cool!'s. I'm pretty lucky to get to see that so often. Everyone loves the tipi! Four couple have celebrated their wedding aniversary in the tipi! Perhaps one day we will be able to host and cater weddings at the lab!
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I think this might be a good time to point out that the build of the tipi is half of DVD 1 of "Better Wood Heat".  You can get this DVD all by itself and it is over two hours long.   The DVD has not only the full build of the tipi rocket mass heater, but it also has an interview with Emily and Tony in the middle of the first winter.  I think they are being interviewed on a day where it is below zero outside - so the interview starts outside in the bitter cold, and then you move inside where you
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Julianne of dirtpatcheaven made another video from her family's visit here earlier this month.

[Youtube]https://youtu.be/ksb5xwyUfvw

More dirtpatcheaven videos and links here: https://permies.com/t/58861/videos/YouTube-Dirtpatcheaven-great-videos-family.


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It has been a privilege to experience The Tipi life, especially the RMH. Coming 'home' from work on chilly nights is no big deal with the RMH, in minutes your are warm and cozy and without all
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I built and lived in tipis in the UK and Ireland back in the early 80's. They were Sioux tipis, which I made from plans from Reginald and Gladys Laubins tipi book. We installed an Ozan and it was great! It needs to be canvas, and sloped back towards the liner to catch and expel any vertical rain that falls on still days. The Ozan made a huge difference in the coziness of the lodge. We only had an open fire, but we used a feeder (a huge stump that you build your fire against, in the morning you
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Maddie was recently at Wheaton Labs and tooks a bunch of great pictures. You can see them all here. But here is a couple good ones of the tipi!.

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/32356/pretty-tipi.jpg

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/32348/inside-pretty-tipi.jpg

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I did stay in the tipi and it was SO amazing!! I never fired up the rocket mass heater though, it was perfect temperature in there without it.
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Cassie just stayed in the tipi for four nights and said it was a luxurious place to stay. It certainly looked lovely!

Running the tipi as a vacation/learning experience is an income stream that is open for development, or that's how it looks to me. . .
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the place. I have a feeling that the tipi has more appeal during the winter because of the whole RMH in a tipi deal, so maybe someone will show up sometime in the fall? I know Paul does want someone
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Hello folks of tipi curiosity! (hello then to myself, too!)

It's been, what, 4 months since my traverse away from the tipi? Yes, something like that.
My time in the tipi was an excellent primer for my days today, days of summer homesteading in my native Ontario.
My time in the tipi has given me confidence and foresight to prepare and take me into a coming winter of homesteading. :)
Summer is nice, but winter is fantastic- I can't wait!

Alas, summer homesteading, especially at a time
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Hopefully I will get to stay in this bad boy when I'm up at the labs in a few days!

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/30186/pretty-tipi-2.jpg

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/30190/pretty-tipi-6.jpg

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/30188/pretty-tipi-4.jpg

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/30191/pretty-tipi-8.jpg

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Lookin' good!
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]


And an interesting view above the RMH with a gapper gift tea kettle.

https://permies.com/t/23460/a/28903/G48E0945.jpg


A last view inside.

https://permies.com/t/23460/a/28904
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I have been reading these posts on tipis and living in a tipi with great interest. Love the heated floor construction with walls. The shredded Rain Cover was interesting. Those things never did exist in the history of tipis nor what was called the Ozan by the Laubins. We know that the lining in a tipi is the Ozan. That was all started after the 20th. century by the father of Boy Scouting Thomas Seton. In high winds they are dangerous to your poles. But in all this great information I
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Here are a few pictures of the tipi

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/28305/tipi-wheaton-labs.jpg

https://permies.com/t/40855/a/28306/paul-in-tipi.jpg
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I love it!!! Pooper Path PomPoms

...so glad you are still around the forums
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Know your forest, and you will know a million paths.

The pooper path is not really a necessary thing considering that the forest is already filled with unique markers
but maybe these poms will help a newcomer find the throne. :)

If there's interest in making more pompoms (for any reason:), you can find yarn down at basecamp, in a box of dye-related things sent graciously by Judith Browning.

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And if you're around the tipi and you gotta go, look for the sign out just past the bee hut...

https://permies.com/i/369988/xzdrqoljkxfilike.png

Flip the sign over to suit your fancy.

http://www.sumoware.com/images/temp/xzpjgdrnpsafqohb.png?jfc=cache-serve
http://www.sumoware.com/images/temp/xztfcmnxgtftfnnc.png?jfc=cache-serve

And follow the pompoms through the forest!
They are a little sparse, so keep yer eyes peeled.
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Contents:
-3 extra spools of waxed thread
-sewing awl with spool (needle and wrench stored inside the awl handle)

http://www.sumoware.com/images/temp/xzxemfcelqecagsl.png?jfc=cache-serve

http://www.sumoware.com/images/temp/xzgkiocegbcljfqn.png?jfc=cache-serve

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The sewing awl is stored in the tipi. It's in a little sack on a shelf.
(Thank you Judith Browning for the lovely little sacks!)

http://www.sumoware.com/images/temp/xzqfqggdcroocrip.png?jfc=cache-serve
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very cool.
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[quote=Olenka Kleban]If you're looking for gapper tipi books, you can find them at base camp. I tucked them into the bookshelf alongside foraging and wild edibles books that I enjoyed whilst in the kanvas kone. They may have since shifted positions, but this is at least a hint to their whereaboots. [/quote]

You are SO awesome Olenka, thank you! Love the Canadian accent there. I *might* move all the gapper books, including these tipi books, to a bookshelf in the bunk bedroom, but haven't
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If you're looking for gapper tipi books, you can find them at base camp. I tucked them into the bookshelf alongside foraging and wild edibles books that I enjoyed whilst in the kanvas kone. They may have since shifted positions, but this is at least a hint to their whereaboots.
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The firewood on the right was prepared by Tony and Emily- it is well seasoned and reserved for terribly cold times.

The 3 stacks to the left are mostly green now, but burn just fine if you prime the pump well. A good stack of penciled-sized kindling, then a graduation to some larger tinder-dry pieces is a good prep before throwing in some green wood. The bottom of those piles has some dead-standing and potentially rotten pieces, so best to hold off of digging right to the bottom of the
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Rufus, Len,

These are great suggestions. I feel pretty confidant that any new tipi steward will have a good head start to knowing what the right path forward will be based on your descriptive solutions. Some time living in the space, plus a good read of this forum, a daily companionship with the tipi books that Miles sent, and regular visits with neighbours to bounce off ideas: an inspired answer will come through for how to go forward.

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On Sunday, Paul and I walked the lab a bit looking at sites for the 1-acre ant village plots. We popped over to check in on the tipi and wofati 0.7 and saw this nice amount of firewood in the skiddable firewood shed.
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Olenka -

> clearing snow ... easy

Makes sense - good deal. Wasn't sure how the immediate site was graded, access and drainage. Also what the usual snow falls were like. I'm in Chicago at the moment and we've had a couple nice snows like I remember from the '50's -'60's. Bit of exercise but no real problem clearing the walks. As I remember, we used to get 3 or 4 good snowfalls each year - say 12-24" - which often stayed essentially intact for a couple weeks or more and drifts could last
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Thanks for all your posts and work, Olenka!
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[quote=Olenka Kleban]Hello friends,

It is time that I leave the tipi. Tuesday will be my last day. If anyone is interested in staying there, get in touch on this forum or feel free to PM me.

Thank you to all who have been following the posts.
Thank you to those of you who have replied, asked questions, and given awesome feedback: Miles, Hans, Mary, Len, Glenn, kadence, Julia, Valerie, Thomas, Rufus, Cassie, Adrien, Jami, David, Nancy, Judith and more.
Thank you Judith for your[/quote]
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from being wet, and that the Tipi is static in use, and that a RMH is used to heat it all point to either digging a pit for the RMH/living space or building a stub wall to raise the building skin
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A podium would need a surface that can direct rain and thaw away from the tipi. With the tipi set up on the ground, the land has been scaped so that there is a slight slope away from the tipi. A podium needs to also reflect this. Sloped podium, plus system for keeping the poles from sliding down... it's a lot of engineering just to find out that the tipi wasn't set-up properly, and try setting it up a few more times to get it just right.
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A podium could be built up around the existing RMH foundation, leaving the living space as a well and putting all the canvas above the current bench top. This would make the current tipi structure
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there's a sign out there.

http://www.sumoware.com/images/temp/xzmlhjbhgqpcoqjk.png?jfc=cache-serve

http://www.sumoware.com/images/temp/xzqcoakhbkhlmtpf.png?jfc=cache-serve


click here for more pictures:

https://permies.com/t/44546/labs/making-signs
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Thanks Landon!
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[quote=Olenka Kleban]This is what I think of my time around the tipi sometimes:

[/quote]

Olenka, that was beautiful. Wishing you the absolute best along your journey and please do keep posting this thread has been wonderful. Like, totally full of wonder.
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transitioning to a more permanent structure around the existing tipi RMH, instead of sticking with high-maintenance, short-lifespan canvas.

I think a bigger tipi would help air flow without making
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This is what I think of my time around the tipi sometimes:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oW0jvJC2rvM
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I will keep posting. I have more photos still to come. And the discussion is great, will keep chiming in. I will be one the move for the next two weeks, visiting various western Canadian cities before I'm Ontario-bound and settled back in Toronto, and then finally to Smithville, and then dear Warkworth. So, posting might be on-and-off for the next while, but I guess that's always how it's been with me living up on the Lab anyways. I look forward to following this thread and seeing the goings on
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Hello friends,

It is time that I leave the tipi. Tuesday will be my last day. If anyone is interested in staying there, get in touch on this forum or feel free to PM me.

Thank you to all who have been following the posts.
Thank you to those of you who have replied, asked questions, and given awesome feedback: Miles, Hans, Mary, Len, Glenn, kadence, Julia, Valerie, Thomas, Rufus, Cassie, Adrien, Jami, David, Nancy, Judith and more.
Thank you Judith for your attention to detail and
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Old thread on tipis from elsewhere on the net.. I like this site for primitive crafts and this sort of thing since it seems like they have the know how and time testing alot of the time to back up their advice.
http://paleoplanet69529.yuku.com/reply/415066/Re-Tipi-care
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Expand View 57 more matching posts found in this thread
[quote=Mark Brunnr]I've read the plastic window on the envelopes is polystyrene so I would avoid putting that into compost. Some have mentioned that when a RMH is hot that it could vaporize plastic[/quote]
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I've read the plastic window on the envelopes is polystyrene so I would avoid putting that into compost. Some have mentioned that when a RMH is hot that it could vaporize plastic, and wondered
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in the future I could use the rejects to start my RMH . . .
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can incorporate all/most of our "wants" for the fireplace using rms/rmh. If necessary we could have one solution for cooking and another for heating, eg a rms that is lifted into the center
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, but as this sounds like a short-term setup, you just need to be sure the bricks are not concrete-based, as that will disintegrate in RMH core temperatures. If you are in a remote area and have clay easily
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a short-term setup, you just need to be sure the bricks are not concrete-based, as that will disintegrate in RMH core temperatures. If you are in a remote area and have clay easily accessible, cob
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Thanks guys for ruling that out.

I'll make the effort to clear the area around the chimney and get it all properly vented.

Which RMH is the easiest to make using materials easily available
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Short answer NO!
Carbon monoxide is a colorless, odorless, tasteless gas and can kill you.
 There have been many threads on permies about exhausting a RMH in a greenhouse to help increase C02
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Hi guys

My basement was recently flooded and is now suffering mould

I want to build a RMH to heat/dry the space to kill mould and remove any residual water.
I also want to spray some
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A word about scrounging firewood for an RMH in an urban setting.  Every year going towards Fall, our community gathers all of its tree trimmings and sets them out by the road for the Township workers
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It seems people will ask about a 5" or smaller feed to make a "smaller" RMH, but that feels to me like the wrong way to look at it. First you will find it tough or impossible to clean out the burn
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Dear Ernie, Erica, and other RMH enthusiasts,

After reading this thread, I understand that rocket cook stoves and space heaters under 6" can work well, but RMHs with long runs of exhaust under 6
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A full-size RMH in your basement is not likely to work well. It is primarily a radiant and conductive heat source, and you will heat your basement more than the upstairs. Also, it needs to be where
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rocket heater that burns efficiently will destroy itself soon, and that you need a good chimney for nearly all situations.

It is possible to build a small, relatively compact and low-mass RMH, but you
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of heat without feeding round the clock, and the metal innards will tend to conduct heat away from the combustion zone and cool the already tiny fire. If you want a small RMH, you need a highly
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feeding round the clock, and the metal innards will tend to conduct heat away from the combustion zone and cool the already tiny fire. If you want a small RMH, you need a highly insulated combustion zone
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Would a copper hot water tank stand up to the heat of a RMH? It would look nice polished up.

Or I was thinking a perforated stainless steel shroud like they have around truck exhaust pipes would
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through a long run in a thermal mass causes too rapid cooling and loss of draft. is this correct? i like the tea stump! very cool. i haven't seen to many designs for a rmh with a more vertical mass
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in a thermal mass causes too rapid cooling and loss of draft. is this correct? i like the tea stump! very cool. i haven't seen to many designs for a rmh with a more vertical mass (think masonry heaters
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It *is* pretty -- I like it!  I've thought all along that eventually, as the concept matures, people would figure out ways to make the RMH look nice for inside their houses.  I
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here is another slightly better for your application i think.

I will be posting these to an album with descriptions of the process. this one does not burn as clean as a RMH but its a real good
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" or some configuration that is roughly square.  4" ducting like that used on gas furnaces is to small for a RMH due to the narrowing effect of laminar flow in the duct.

I assume you have shown
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Actually you can scale an RMH down below 6" and have any dependability. Laminar flow eats the duct diameter down till it stops the flow of exhaust gasses. You might be able to do a very short
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Expand View 12 more matching posts found in this thread
When you boil eggs on top of your RMH cook stovetop in an iron skillet, and the water’s only halfway up the eggs, because you need to conserve water, so you flip the eggs over halfway through to get
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that?)
--the three other community members pop out of the car while you get an oil change (not getting a small oil barrel for an RMH here today, but you have in the past) to spend time in the spring
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calendar for keeping track of daily duck and chicken eggs, sitting and hatch dates, RMH wood use, seed planting and sprout dates, harvest dates and notes, roadside stand sales... all the important stuff
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be a permie if: you consider the best purchase of the last two years was the RMH digital/DVD 8 disc set, and you still think Paul Wheaton should earn a special Oscar or Emmy just because he's one really
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]

heat a space with a rocket mass heater for a full winter
[url=https://permies.com/wiki/152236/pep-rocket/Build-Rocket
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Heater for 1 Hour
  Start and Operate a Different Batch Box Rocket Mass Heater for 1 Hour
  [url
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=https://permies.com/wiki/106179/pep-rocket/Annual-Cleanout-RMH-PEP-BB#1004478]Annual ash cleanout
Boil water on a J
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]

heat a space with a rocket mass heater for a full winter
[url=https://permies.com/wiki/152236/pep-rocket/Build-Rocket
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Expand View 3 more matching posts found in this thread
, if I have the time.  

I like the idea of a hybrid RMH plus cooktop but I wonder how insanely hot this place would get if I tried to make curry with even less room on the range/ consecutive stages
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was chosen for this model versus other buildings at Wheaton Labs?  Or are the results being compared to a more functional and RMH-equipped building for the purpose of comparison?  Thanks!
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Quick update!

Finally got a finish coat on after a year and I am very pleased!
The finish is extremely hard, even the areas that remained somewhat rough do not break or dust off.
And I'm having pretty much zero dusting.

After the plaster went on I did 3 coats of linseed oil. You can see that the oil was not absorbed evenly resulting in some discoloration. I suppose I could apply another coat to the areas that remained light but I don't want to smell it right now.

Recipe I
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Hi Nancy and Trevor!
Sorry for the delay but cool to hear there are interested neighbors. I did finish and ran it all this past winter. Still need to get to the finishing coat though.

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Did you finish this project? I am also curious, I am very close by in Narrowsburg, NY.
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I also live in Delaware County NY.  Hi Neighbor.  would love to chat about your homestead.  nancyl@hancock.net
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Yes, you could call it the final coat of cob if you want Sophie. To me cob is a more coarse material that makes up the bulk of a structure and plaster as being a much more refined product that is a thin layer over the cob to give it a nice look and help protect the cob underneath from wear & moisture.

I mostly went by feel when adding the wheat paste. My ratio was 3 fine sifted sand : 1 sifted clay : handful of cattail fluff and/or short straw to about maybe 1/2 wheat paste.

I did a few
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Hi Gary!
Thanks. When you say your final coat of plaster, do you mean your final coat of cob? So same mix as the rest, but with the addition of wheat paste? and may I ask what ratio you would use with that. Thinking maybe this plus linseed is the simplest option.
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Thanks for the update Sophie!  Always nice to see how builds are performing and holding up.

The chalky, sandy nature of untreated cob will almost never go away unless you seal it up as you've found out. What has worked really well for me is adding some wheat paste to my final coat of plaster which eliminates the dusting and also helps to hold things together, giving the mix a dough like consistency.

Linseed oil has worked great for me too. 2-3 coats has produced a hard surface that has
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Hello!
It has been a couple months but just wanted to pop in with some updates.
My RMH has been doing a great job keeping me warm through this cold winter, though I am excited for the temps to go
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[quote=Sophie Gell]You know how once clay is damp it becomes very difficult for it to dissolve into water? That is what I meant by that. Mix it as is it is very difficult to disperse it evenly into the sand. Right now I’m cooking the clay in the top of the barrel and drying some in the sun! [/quote]

I use a drywall paddle mixer attached to a drill  (not one of those cheap paint mixers that break real easy) to mix up my wet clay. I break it up into chunks, throw it into a bucket then pour a
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Thanks Gary!
I tried your trick and yup that brought the temps right up. After 2 hours of burning like that I have the barrel top at 520, side at 355. From of barrel past 200 and the end at 130. The exhaust is around 120. I sure blew through some wood but  Feeling pretty satisfied with these numbers. I guess I won’t raise the riser any. Thanks for that!

You know how once clay is damp it becomes very difficult for it to dissolve into water? That is what I meant by that. Mix it as is it is
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Hoooray! Sophie.

Glad to hear your dragon is chugging along and in the right direction!

Be careful how low you take your barrel over the heat riser. 2" is bare minimum and can cause a lot of drag especially when it starts to accumulate a bit of ash on the top of the riser.
To get a hotter fire, one trick is to split your wood even smaller than what you are burning in your photo. Loosely pack as much as you can in there which will create a lot more surface area and more flame. Of
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First firings!
I am midway through my third firing. Each time has started up no problem and with no smoke. Things are getting warm but probably not as warm they could be. I just got the infrared thermometer today so here’s what I’m getting: Barrel top hasn’t gotten hotter than 350 F, barrel sides are around 250. Bench closest to the manifold I got to 160, and going down to 110 at then end of the bench. Exhaust is around 105 F. I am very happy with the start ups and even without the mass the
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As long as you used plenty of sand with the clay it will be fine!
Congratulations on becoming a rocket scientist!
Bet ya didn't know we snuck up behind and got your picture :-)
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Thomas!
Thank you for the kind words, I would love to build these thingys for a living. Designing and material sourcing was very tedious but the build has been exciting! I do feel it's going quite well, I guess we'll see once she's fired up!

One thing that just occurred to me. I didn't use fireclay to seal riser onto the core, nor to extend the feed tube. I have been using the natural clay almost exclusively, do to how well in held up in cob experiments. Should I go in and replace with
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Hi Sophie; No it can not be to big!    That manifold is wonderful! It looks quite a bit like mine.
As far as top gap. I used a 2.5" gap for seven years with no issues.  4" will be fine if your not cooking on the barrel top.
The slate "should" be fine. Highly doubt it would explode ... but could crack. Just keep an eye on it.
Your whole build is looking very professional!  We will want to list you in the local builders guide !
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Also wanted to add, my manifold is obviously huge. I know that too small can lead to problems... but can it be too big?
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Checking back in!
Feels like I’m getting very close. Benches are set and sealed, working on the manifold now. I am thinking of using these big (shale? slate?) pieces. To bridge the gaps in order to support my barrel and serve as the lid to the manifold. Any thoughts? They won’t explode will they?

One more question, I saw in a recent post that the 2" gap between riser and barrel top is not always recommended. As is my barrel would have a 4" gap from riser, I was going to cut two inches off
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I forgot about your cleanout question.
With a piped system cleanouts are very important.
With a half barrel system you may not need to clean for several years.
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brick can suck the moisture right out of mortar before it can set up.
I'm sure your cob is fine. Once your bricks are wet it will stick to them.
When I built my first RMH I worried about the cob
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Gone again for a few days but I’m back!
Gerry, I went ahead and lengthened the exhaust. I think the bench may be small enough for it to not be necessary but it couldn’t hurt, and now is the time to do it if ever.

I moved the clean out to the other side of the bench because I won’t be able to access it from the back due to the plans for the room. It’s a little tight but I can reach the exhaust entrance. I am wondering not if it’s an issue that I won’t have a clean out at the 90 degree
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Sophie, I just saw your post from Sept. 24 about your insulated chimney being 6" instead of 8". I realize it is too late to affect you, but it may be helpful to know that I had a similar situation. My J-tube is a 7 1/2" system with a brick and cob bell enclosing the core, with an 8" square tile/masonry chimney planned. As a temporary measure, I had to run the exhaust out the sidewall and up since I can't build the permanent chimney right now, and had some salvaged 6" insulated chimney pipe on
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Hi Sophie,   Great start! Looking very nice.

Can't remember if you said if the floor your building on is a cement slab? Looks like it to me. Not a show stopper, but it too could have benefited from having a layer of perlite/clay as a base too....or just heavy straw cob to help keep the heat from going down and heating the earth. I think you'll be just fine if you keep what you have.

Your hvac cleanouts will also work just fine. They can handle the low heat in the area where they are no
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Greetings after a long while!
I am back and things have been happening. Past couple weeks were spent on the chimney, but it is installed now and we are ready to go. I ended up using stove pipe for the whole length until insulated (24" for $6!) I’ve started to lay bricks for the outline of the bench and manifold, and filled the manifold chamber with 4” of perlite-clay, the bench chamber with 4” of cob.

The bench will get one more line of brick before the barrels go on, that will happen
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I have no experience with cf board but do with rock wool insulation. At first I tried to cut it with a straight edged knife (like I do with regular fiberglass insulation) but it kept tearing.
Shortly afterwards, I found out that you need to use a serrated knife to cut it to produce a clean edge. Just a cheapo dollar store bread knife made all the difference in the world!
As the structure may change a bit to the cf board after its fired, maybe a change in knifes would work as
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Thomas- I used a hack saw when I first cut the board, it was quick but left the edges kind of fluffy. This time around I used a box cutter with a long blade to cut cleanly through, though I noticed the singed bits were really popcorn-y. Those parts more inclined to pull off in small chucks then to be cut through.

Gerry- I’ll give it a go today with the bigger particles screened out.

I mixed clay slip into the sand so there was a lot of water. Curious how thick people mix their slip- are
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Sophie;  What tool did you use to cut your cf board?  
I use a hacksaw blade, just held in my hand and it cut's easy straight and clean.
Did not matter if it was new or used.
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Some excellent test results on the brick samples you made Sophie. This is a huge thing to get right otherwise a whole build can be ruined by a poor mix.
Every location is different so materials need to be adjusted to accommodate proportions. Keep it up until you find what works the best.
Try sifting some of your sand through a mesh if its too coarse. I find that too many large grains can make a batch crumbly.

Didn't know that cf board was harder to cut once fired. Thanks for sharing
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Gerry, thanks!
Getting there..

Today I did some cob tests with some clay that I have: Hawthorne #50 fire clay, some pottery scraps, and natural clay from Cooperstown. The Cooperstown brick dried up to be remarkably strong, almost waxy, while the other are quite crumbly. Very interesting! Some bricks may have had more water than other so will have to re-test.. I should also say my sand is rather course!

Thanks for your advice on the cob platform. Seems like if I removed the wood frame
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Hi Sophie,   Very nice progress and layout your got.

I have worked with some cob over wood but always just considered it to be a form to hold the cob in place until it dried. After that, the form could be either left in place, removed or burned out if being used to make a core. As far as whether it will be OK with the heat, that really depends on how close it gets to the heat and how much cob is on it. Wood may be alright for a while, but as it dries out over time, its combustion point
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Thank you again Thomas and all who have helped! I'm still only at the beginning :0

I wanted to give some updates!

I have started dry building the brick and barrel bell and laying out things
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Hi Sophie;
The transition to the bell should be as large as possible , bigger is better.
The outlet pipe should be 8" all the way outdoors.
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Thanks so much Thomas!

With a bell system, do the transition and exhaust to and from the bench need to be in line with the 8" CSA of the rest of the system?
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Hi Sophie;
Sorry for the delay in responding.
Let me take a shot at your questions.
1) Setting your riser on a clay perlite base is a good plan.
2) I would put a cleanout at the far end. Big enough for your arm and a vacuum hose.
3)Both can be down low. The heat from the transition will quickly rise to the top of the bell. Cooler air will sink and find the outlet.
4) With a smaller bench  I think you can place the chimney where it is most convenient.
5) A plunger tube helps with large
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Thanks for your last response, that is a relief. I have finally gathered most of what I will need and am starting the build this week! Very excited. I have a couple questions first!

I know that the ceramic board riser doesn’t need additional insulation, I am thinking though about setting it on a clay/perlite pad. How does this sound? Setting it directly on the concrete just doesn’t sound quite right. Also the floor is not level in parts, so I was thinking I can level the perlite pad so I am
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Hi Sophie;
Those barrels will be ok.
The one barrel will be split and used in your bench, so it will be covered with cob.
Any paint residue left on the barrel you use over your riser will quickly go away when you light off your stove the first time.
Another option would be to burn woody debris (burn barrel) in the one to finish getting any paint off.
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I had grinded the paint off the outside of the barrel with the orange residue, and was making trying to burn the paint off the inside with the pocket rocket. Now it almost looks like the clay-mache fired too it and caused rust? I'm not sure, any ideas?
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Hi Folks!
Checking back in! Right now I am in removal process and I am struggling (*i think*). I build a pocket rocket lid and have been burning the barrels with the clay-Mache. Here's what im left with,
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Been awhile since I've been on but I'm I the process of doing some repairs to my heater after a 8 month heating with it. I used fire brick in my feed tube and riser. I'm glad I did because it really gets beat up from the fire wood at the feed tube. So it's a easy repair since I have extra split bricks. If you are looking for clay, I bought some from a local compost company. They use clay in the compost mix, so they may be willing to sell a tractor bucket full. I found fire brick and ceramic
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Hi Sophie;
Great choice and Great questions, lets give you some answers!
To start, a 6" system would probably work, but you will be much happier with an 8".
6" J 's need feeding  a lot more often than an 8".  
You can always enlarge a bell up later, if you feel like your sending to much heat up the chimney.
Setting the 1/2 barrels on a 1' brick ledge will work great.
For your floor in the bell, I would give it a few inches of cob with cut straw as an insulator. You want that heat
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Hello!
I have now done a lot of thread-reading, some drawing and some thinking. I am planning to do a half barrel bell system along w my 8” J, and I have a few questions.

In the space that I was planning to build the heater, I only have room for a 6’ bench. I’ve read that bells are a lot more flexible in size and shape so I am hoping this is alright, but I’m also now wondering if an 8” system is overkill.

Second, I am hoping to set the barrels on at least a 1’ tall brick wall on every
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Hi Sophie;    Check out this post out about my shop heater.   https://permies.com/t/94980/Brick-Bell-Shop-Heater
It started life as an 8" J tube into a brick bell.
It is now a 7" batchbox
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Oh! Also, ive done some research on stratification chambers and I'm very interested in building it that way I can figure out what that looks like. Can i still do a cob/brick bench? Anyway, will continue the research but any advice on that end is also much appreciated!
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Hi Sophie;   Yes  a ceramic board J tube using Matt's plans will rock!  You will be very pleased!
Your seeing more batchbox builds because that is the direction super high efficient stoves are headed.
The J tube stoves will be here forever as a highly efficient mass heater.
They can be built by just about anyone with less than optimal building materials.

For your build I would use 1" on the walls but 2" on the burn tunnel roof .
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Thanks everyone for all of your help!
After trying to do some material sourcing over here it looks like ceramic fibre board is actually gonna be cheaper than the insulating fire bricks! So I think i will go with the fibre board core and 5 minute riser. Searching around I'm seeing a lot more fibre board Batch boxes than J-Tubes. Do people have success with a fibre board J tube? I saw one thread where a guy's core melted through 9https://permies.com/t/96634/Build)  but he had some other stuff
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Hi Sophie;  
Yes, you use stove pipe or sheet metal.    
You need a 10" circle to make an 8" riser.   Make your own with rivets or sheet metal screws.

Yes, the riser sits on top and clay / sand mud seals it
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Thanks everyone for your responses. So now I am thinking about a firebrick core possibly with a 5-minute riser. I had some questions about the riser. Do you need to use stove pipe for the riser? For an 8' system could i still use 8" ID pipe with the 1" that is subtracted from the area by the superwool? And in terms of the connection of the riser to the core, would you just sit it on top the opening from the burn tunnel and seal around with clay sand?

Thanks!
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For a cast core, refractory cement is a good material. It is expensive (around $50 for a sack if I recall correctly), but will stand up to wear. I would still line the feed tube with split firebricks. It is easy to make an internal form the exact shape you want your cavity from scrap wood and plywood, allowing a path for air to move through the inside of the form, and then burn out the form with the first firing.

I am in Broome County, and did not involve the building code inspector in my
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[quote=Sophie Gell]
5. Also interested in brick box idea but having trouble visualizing. Does the brick box maintain that 8" CSA? and is it buried within the base? How would you ensure that exhaust does not escape through the box?[/quote]

Hi Sophie,    One video that shows what this looks like and then modified into a large bell by Kirk 'Donkey' Mobert is here: Rocket Bell Retrofit
With each innovation came new ways of looking at how
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Hi Sophie;
Good timing on your response!  I'm waiting on dinner and have time right now to respond!
1) Excellent place for it.
2)Adding things to the cast mix would help overall, but building your feed tube with split firebrick is the long term solution.
Even when you build with ceramic boards you still use split bricks in the feed tube. ( ceramic board is on the soft side.)
3)Well I can and will, but not till I mention that you are at one of the better places to search rocket info. right
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Wow! First of all, thanks for this reply, it is incredibly helpful.
Some responses and more questions if you dont mind!
1. yes the double walled chimney pipe would just be for going through and out the roof. Thanks for the insight on which pipes to use where that is good to know!
2. I watched this Matt Walker video if the casted core, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ANMXGrxgnE&t=16shttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7ANMXGrxgnE&t=16s, I notice the includes fire cement and fiber glass in order
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Hi Sophie;
I hope you are ready... I'm about to bombard you with information!

Yes an 8" J tube is a great place to start. By going with an 8," if at a later time you decide to go with a batchbox.
You can build a 6" batch and plumb it right into your 8" mass. They work very well that way.

So not sure I understand about your double wall chimney pipe?  How were you hoping to use it?
As a final go thru the roof?  Or were you wanting to use it inside your mass?
For going thru your roof
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Thanks for your reply!
Yep, going to start with a J-Tube although interested in a Batchbox, J Tube seems like a better place to start out. Thinking 8". I have a used 8" double walled chimney in pretty good shape that I'd like to use to cut down on cost, although I know there are some warnings against that. Just hoping I can get it cleaned out really well. I am also thinking about doing a casted core with perlite, fire clay, and chimney cement as I have some experience with molding and feel
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Hi Sophie;   Big Welcome to Permies!  And A Big Welcome to the wonderful world of rocket science!

So your planning on building your very first RMH!   That's great !
So tell us your plans?  I
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Hey! Looking to build my first RMH in Delaware County, NY. Curious if anyone in this region has done the same. Would love to discuss sourcing materials and building codes in the area. Thanks!
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Auto feeding J-tube RMH
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Simple, non-skiddable 3 room bunk house for the boots barely uphill from the Fisher Price House.  With willow feeder and central RMH.
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classroom tracks with rmh design, foundations.  Other presentations.   All sorts of classrooms stuff.
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even be able to get by with solar gain and a trombe wall, but a 'small', efficient fuel heater of some kind would be handy.

For a barrel-less RMH, even for confined space, have you considered
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insulation or dry sand to help keep your exhaust temperatures higher and prevent the condensation from forming.
Another source of all that moisture is also coming from your RMH being newly built.  In other
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This is my first time posting in my life! Woohoo, now I have a problem. I’ve built a rmh and this thing leaks water like crazy. Probably a quart to half gallon a night. The rmh is in my greenhouse
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The main reason that my RMH didn't perform right was because of leaking. I had leaks every where. At the 1st clean out, at 2nd clean out, at the 3rd clean out, but leaking the most is at the 2 elbows
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Hello everyone

I just burned my RMH this morning. We fixed only one problem, the other two problem is still there

Here are my RMH problem before:
1) Building up of red charcoal 2
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I never had a chance to burn my RMH since the chimney up higher. Temperature in this area has been always at high 80s-90s. There were a couple of days when temperature at low 80 but I missed them
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Shilo
I did this RMH couple months ago, in April, and I think I didn't burn it before did thermal mass. I finished everything then burned. But I think I will redo the thermal mass so I can have
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If your thermal mass doesn’t have enough clay it will be weak.

RMH with a long mass is very sensitive to high ambient temp like 90F.
did you give it a try (when the mass is dry!) in a winter day?
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I think I need to describe my all my problems clearly so you could diagnose my RMH:

1) From the beginning, I had exactly same problem as in the link Satamax gave: Which is at the begining my RMH
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that, and also, is it normal for the RMH to have temperature falling during the burn? I thought temperature should be up and up?
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"Big" is a relative term. I would simply use the largest wood that burns well in your RMH, which will leave the smallest amount of coals. It will also reduce burn-up as there will be fewer narrow
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it this sunday to see. I am happy with the temperature of my RMH now. I just need to find out the reason I have burn up and red charcoal.

Shilo, right now I have 1 meter of chimney up there, if add 2 more
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I don't want to give up. I want to find out why I still have problems of red charcoal and burn up. Even my RMH is much better now and get hotter too, but my RMH could be normal like others's
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(measure from -4 to 608). I think my top hotter than 608 after 45 minutes burn. So my RMH is now could go over 600 easily. I think the temperature rise compare to before is around 100-150 degree. I don't
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Janet Black : Again - you are our future, Future Rocketeers will be helped by your experience, I would rather listen to a Fellow member who built 1 RMH
and lived with it for a year than someone
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Allen and Satamax,

Thank you for confirming about my RMH issue. Getting a brick cover the feedtube is an easy solution. But I think I will do it the long way. As I told you before, the whole
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enough to get a smoothening RMH That did not have any 'Birthing Problems " !

OK, Now we are going to try some thing different, select out some short very dry wood that when it is in place in your
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this way!

Check this thread: https://permies.com/t/32099/rocket-stoves/doubling-power-RMH-cooling-feed

I think something like this, implemented as a feed cooler and Peter channel would work i
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of the clip into the ocean? My, that doesn't sound good at all.

Please diagnose the problem of my RMH. Later when it's cool off I will record the ashes, a lot for one burn. I have to vacumn every
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means when they make suggestions to improve your build !

I watched Your video and as long as the wall behind Your RMH is not likely to burn I see no major problems. You may actually be extracting too
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Satamax, this is Bacon. Erika said Bacon is not a good sounding name and I can't use that name. So I changed to a good sounding name.

Earlier this yeary you helped me with my RMH, but I gave up
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for 2 hours.

Do you have a lot of red charcoal at bottom of feed tube and throat or something is wrong with my RMH?
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Allen, thank you for respond.

My RMH is 1 month old. I fired it less than 10 times one hour each, a couple of times for 2 hours. The cob bench is not getting hot at all. I checked every hour
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Janet B : Congratulations on your Rocket Mass Heater build !!! And welcome to Permies.com !There is probably nothing wrong with your Rocket !

How much water? How old is Your RMH, and how many
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[quote=Robert Shimel]I am also a long time watcher first time post. I have studied RMH & RS but never built one. Would enjoy joining LIC and learning. I Live in Hazeldell, (basically Vancouver, Wa[/quote]
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I am also a long time watcher first time post. I have studied RMH & RS but never built one. Would enjoy joining LIC and learning. I Live in Hazeldell, (basically Vancouver, Wa.) I am not sure how
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Long time looker, no posts.  I'm located in SE Cowlitz county and would love to learn by doing a RMH.  I have built and use a rocket griddle made from a Blackstone griddle but haven't figured out
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Hey Ed, you were the first one to ask, so let's have the first LIC event at your place :) You have Ernie and Erica's book, so I think that includes this set of plans for an in-home RMH. [url=https
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@Elliot Mason and @Liv Smith <--- How do we tag users...?
I see you are "staff",  I'm not sure exactly what that means... Are there any RMH seminar materials or cob building resources (etc) we could
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I'll parachute in as this group's first member South of the Columbia!

Hi!  I'm a graduate of the RMH Innovator's Workshop and the just finished RMH Jamboree.  I helped build the rocket oven we
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I am interested in Portland LIC.
Located in Kelso.
Never built a RMH and don't know much about them, but I am a mechanical engineer if you need any enginerding advice.  
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plan is to finish the details on the RMH plan/parts and pay for an hour consult with the good folks at Wheaton Labs to sanity check plans. I'm considering building one outside first to the same specs
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here, and to help each other build some awesome things. I mean, I originally came to Permies because of Paul's videos about RMHs. But that was almost a decade ago, and I still haven't built an RMH
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where you will be in sight of it for a few hours a day. A J-tube RMH (the simplest and easiest type to build) requires reloading every half hour to 45 minutes. A batch box holds more wood at a time
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I just found this site thru reddit, where I was reading about rocket stoves. I love the idea of a RMH, but I'm wondering how big should I make it for a home (I live in a log home btw, if that matters
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rmh supplements my heat in the house. It's my third full year burning and I still really enjoy the rmh, but I like to tinker, so it fits my personality.
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Ever notice how incredibly strong your RMH drafts on a windy day or as a windy cold front passes through? I imagine those living in areas with consistently windy conditions day to day, would be more
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" diminish. Once closed a bit more to match the volume of remaining wood, the "rocket" sound would return and doing this towards the end ensured no unburned sticks remained. That RMH had a different design
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packaging, so I was just hopeful that I'd see far less cleaning of the RMH mass by sticking to mostly wood when lighting it. When I used the minnie mouse heater in the Love Shack at Wheaton Labs, I would
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This season I opened up and inspected the horizontal flu runs (26 feet in length) of my RMH. After five consecutive seasons without any cleaning, I didn't find any significant fly ash accumulation
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This is the amount of ash my RMH produced last year. After sifting, actually about two gallons of it was biochar. I know this doesn't provide much scientific data: I didn't record how much wood
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fallen in storms, but didn't damage any structures.  These and other downed trees from the area continue to provide all my fuel for the RMH currently rocketing away behind me as I type, heating my
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had planned.  My goal was to make a RMH that had some aesthetic appeal besides being really awesome at heating a home.  So tile work was done, slate was cut for the top, a bit more cob fill
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for my rocket mass heater (RMH).  I haven't really pumped much heat into my house the previous two days as I was riding out the residual heat with the relatively warmer weather, and I was mostly away
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as RMH supplies, I now have a 24" x 50' roll of the Morgan Superwool, and Sunday I am going to pickup 140 of the dense firebricks, that were overbought by a guy who had a fancy outdoor patio oven
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Hello everyone been doing a lot of reading on the sight and on the web trying to find a good design for an outside RMH.  I live in northern Michigan so we get some extreme weather changes.  The RMH
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For anyone contemplating building their own RMH, i.e. especially those that do not have experience working with refractory materials nor woodstove construction, The Rocket Mass Heater Builder's Guide
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The essence of Kuznetsov's "free gas movement" is incorporated in the "bell" heat exchanger design that is becoming increasingly popular in the RMH world. There are numerous possible ways
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 - Tangle foot fence
 - Junk-pole fence
 - Rockjacks
 - Haybox cooker
 - No more external air intake for rmh
 - Incandescent and led lighting at the Labs
 - Workstation dock
 - Cooper
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 - Tangle foot fence
 - Junk-pole fence
 - Rockjacks
 - Haybox cooker
 - No more external air intake for rmh
 - Incandescent and led lighting at the Labs
 - Workstation dock
 - Cooper
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too easy.
I decided to give that a try last winter, when it was too cold in the greenhouse (which is what the RMH is for) to cast anything. Using 6" round duct, I created an interior mold
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refractories available. You could use this as a hot face and make your own insulation. A lot of the furnace construction threads over there use the same principles as building a rocket stove/RMH.

They have
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Here is the answer to my own questions about fireclay.
http://www.traditionaloven.com/articles/101/what-is-fire-clay-and-where-to-get-it

I am still researching the best mix and methods for RMH
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Bump....


How cool is this?! If anybody is still eyeballing this thread, I have a quick question.

I am designing an RMH to sit atop a suspended wood floor in my living room. So, I see
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in a sleeping room unless well ventilated or drafty.

With basic masonry skills, you should be able to make a safe mini RMH.
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I do know how to use tools, have done some minimal brick and concrete work, more artistic than structural, yard fountains, garden walls. Her house is very cluttered, so clearance may be an issue. I looked at the sort of "radar dish" propane tank top heaters but was not sure if they were for indoor use, though a friend used to throw parties in her garage and used them, but a party, with lots of people milling about and going in and out doors, is a good bit different than a small bedroom with
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Yowch! I'm familiar with the 16 brick Rocket stoves, and they're a very simple outdoor cooking stove, not indoor safe.

This (an option we're working with, ourselves) might be a better option, particularly paired with very long burning candles:  https://youtu.be/nzKbFzUEWkA

There's a diagram of the setup, here: https://www.survivalsullivan.com/make-clay-pot-heater/
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There have been very small rocket mass heaters built. How much floor space could be dedicated to a heater? It would not require huge clearances like a wood stove, but you would want a couple inches to combustibles and a couple of feet in front to keep the wood feed away from danger. Is the home in decent structural condition? A few hundred pounds of masonry mass could hold enough heat to keep the chill off overnight without straining a reasonably sound floor.

Have you ever done any
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Hi Lori;
Welcome to Permies!
Very nice your trying to help your friend keep warm.
As far as a 16 brick stove goes.   I have not heard of them before.
It sounds like a cooking type stove not a heating stove.

I'm thinking that  even if you can build a 16 brick stove it is not going to stay warm  long enough to keep her warm.
A  wood stove vented out a window is problematical from a safety point of view as well.

I think, in this case a small propane or kerosine heater would be more
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Hello all, my friend lives in a small mobile home. Presently she can not afford to use her heating, last year at this time she ran it a scant hour daily and her bill went from $50 US to $300 a month, she is elderly, disabled, and lives alone with two small dogs. I would like to build her a way to heat just her bedroom, safely, so that she can sleep comfortably and not be cold. My biggest concern is venting, obviously I would prefer she and the chiweenies wake up and not suffer co2 poisoning.
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I will say that a RMH will most certainly help drive cold and damp out of your home.  As will most any wood burning device or other form of furnace as it is the heat that drives the moisture
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of the air.
A rocket mass heater is no exception to this. My RMH always kept the windows dry and mold-free where air was allowed to circulate.
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Hey all,
Just discovered the Walker Tiny Stove and I think I’m in love. I’m in Vermont, quite a long cold heating season, and I never liked the original RMH, because it took up so much floor space
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