Daniel Larusso

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since Nov 24, 2017
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Recent posts by Daniel Larusso

Hey I see a lot of earwigs and similar insects in my little fruit tree orchard.

Are they any good guys? I have clay soil so I want to attract earthworms and beneficial insects to promote life and adding organic matter to loosen my soil.
5 years ago

Trace Oswald wrote:I don't amend my clay soil before planting trees anymore, for the same reason Maarten mentioned.  I have had really good luck with mulching around my trees with very thick layers of wood chips to keep the ground soft.  I also plant a ring of daffodils around the tree at a foot or so out from the tree, and then go out another couple feet and plant a ring or double ring of comfrey.  I don't even chop mine most of the time, I just let them grow because the bees love the flowers.  Comfrey should grow really well there.  Our temps are more extreme, and mine grows really well in my heavy clay.

In addition to breaking through the heavy clay soil, comfrey brings in huge amounts of worms.  I often find worms that have eaten right into the roots.  I'm sure all those worms are making pathways for the small tree roots to follow as well.



Thanks a lot!

What do you think of dandelions? I heard their roots are deep and they do well in clay soils.

I was also recommended to add perlite and/or zeolite to my soil to make it more porous.
5 years ago
Oh smart idea there ^^ I might try.

Yeah I had read about planting dandelions whose roots are strong and break the hard clay soil, is this the same for comfreys? I am not sure if comfreys would grow well in Spain, we have 40ºC (104ºF) in summer and 0ºC (32ºF) in winter.
5 years ago
So my almond tree is 4 years old now and it is only 1.5 meters tall. Some 1 year old almond trees are larger!!

I have tried gypsum and worm castings, but the soil is still hard as hell. I fertilized my tree with KNO3 (potassium nitrate) following David Doll indications for young trees, nothing.

http://thealmonddoctor.com/2011/03/25/fertilizing-young-almond-trees-a-few-tips/

is there any chance I can make my little friend grow and become taller than myself? :)

p.s. at this point I am not sure if I should consider my tree 1 year old or 4 years old, in other words I don't want to burn the tree by tossing too much nitrogen.
5 years ago

Annie Collins wrote:I suspect your friend has seen chemtrails being pumped into the skies which, from what I read, likely contain those elements. We have been continuously seeing chemtrails being made intensely where we live almost on a daily basis since February of this year, with a day or two off in between. We are in the US, but my son went to Germany for a couple of weeks over the summer, and found them to be there just as much. I doubt Spain is being spared the chemtrail activity; it seems to be going on pretty much everywhere.  



Yeah we can see chemtrails in my country too. I am just sceptic about the idea but I guess I could test it just to be sure what is going on lol.

Travis Johnson wrote:It is hard to determine because from what I can tell, your high PH level, and low organic matter is throwing everything out of balance. Doing anything without getting your PH levels down is going to be a waste of time, your crop, no matter what it is, is just not going to uptake your nutrients...the nitrogen especially which is why it is high. If the land has been left fallow for years, you got what amounts to 30 years of chop and drop by nature and why your nitrogen is super high...

Now nitrogen is VERY volatile so you are seeing the high levels, BUT it is not doing much good because it is not being trapped in that sandy, high PH soil. Is is simply being lost and not availed to plant growth. If I was to venture a guess, and I might be wrong, the sward is sparse and short?

You really need sulfur to get your PH down, which will settle everything else out. You also need lots of organic matter, either in the form of mulch (which I hate) or manure. But 9 acres is a fair amount of land to revitalize. It sounds to me like grazing livestock would be the cheapest, best alternative at this point...with sulfur to get your PH down.



That's correct sir, sward is sparse and very short.


Tj Jefferson wrote:Those are elements, and short of alchemy they must be added to a system. There are two elements that can be plucked from the air- Nitrogen and Carbon. You can fix deficiencies in those with healthy soil. I get some free sulfur from coal plants but not very much, sulfur is now becoming depleted since there are fewer coal discharges (but less cesium too so thats pretty good). Some people believe in "dynamic accumulators" which are proposed to make elements more available at the surface. I use trees and deep rooted plants to try to do that. I don't know how successful I have been because the rock dust allows me to do it much faster and quite cheaply. But yes I amend some minerals. Those minerals will be found in compost but not likely at a level that will allow you to balance the iron/copper/zinc levels. I have red clay, containing iron, so I am amending a small amount of copper and lots of zinc. Unfortunately they are deficient in the rock dust, along with boron. Manures may have quite a bit of minerals (although they are mostly lost in the urine of larger animals), but bird droppings will be mineral rich since they don't make urine. The problem is they are rich in nitrogen which you don't need.

If you can compost some bird manure and use the nitrogen to break down your carbon, you will be left with a mineral rich compost.

Sure, if you want to. I haven't because there is absolutely nothing I can do about it if it is there in quantity, but I have no reason to think it is (this would be industrial contamination). Not sure about aluminum. The whole earth is "contaminated" with it! It is a very common element. My rock dust is 10% aluminum, and pine needles/bark are loaded with it. Azomite is in the same ballpark. There are lots of things to worry about, I am more interested in obtaining soil health, letting the microherd present the plants with appropriate substrates, and letting the plants present me with appropriate substrates! And if you are storing rainwater in the soil, you have only to worry about the chemtrails but not the agricultural and industrial groundwater pollution. I'll risk it on the chemtrails.



I am getting more and more curious about the chemtrails stuff. Lets analyze and see what happens O_O
7 years ago
Hello Angelica,

the same happens to me. I just love mulching and I guess it is the same anyway, the only disadvantage is it will take more time for the same benefits.

About comfrey, you need to be careful not to throw stems, if you do a new comfrey plant will born and these are hard to erradicate lol.
7 years ago
Tj, thanks for your elaborated post. I will try to answer your questions my best.

Acreage is 3.6 hectares (9 acres)

Climate is continental/oceanic (North of Spain) with prolonged summers and winters and short springs/falls. Temperatures range from -5ºC to 45ºC (23F to 113F) Year rainfall is around 330mm (13 inches). I plan to use my well including a drip irrigation system, it is what's usually recommended for intensive almond orchards. I wish to create successful organic orchard trying to maximize nut production without damaging the environment, improving it in fact. I love bumblebees, they are rarely seen but lets create a nice home for 'em

Plants that do grow here: muscari, poppy, lonicera, there are several elms and yeah they show chlorosis (yellow leaves). There is a giant, ancient almond tree and it apparently does better. There are some serious spots with some kind of moss, it is beautiful to be honest.

I do not know what type of lime/calcium complex I have, but yea it is high. According to my laboratory calcium is low and magnesium is high, but I think that's because Spanish soils are usually too abundant in calcium for whichever reason, and they conclude that this is "normal".

No one is dumping nitrogen or any fertilizer there. Lab says Total Nitrogen is 0.093% this equals to 930ppm if I am not wrong. An intensive almond orchard devour N and K so that's why I liked the idea of crimson clover for N fixation, at least when trees would be 3-4 years old. Maybe that's unnecesary for the first 3 years. Or never if you think my soil is not good for it. I am not even sure if this clover resists these hard summers. Alfalfa as you pointed out, this is a very common species cultivated here by farmers, maybe a wiser choice from a "go local" point of view.

According to you: should I add exogenous zinc/boron/copper or adding and promoting organic matter should do the job.?

Most problematic plague here are aphids, they use ants and collaborate each other to destroy our beloved plants. We will need some companion plants where ladybugs and soldier beetles could thrive. You only see them once in a while, you know monocultives are destroying the biodiversity

7 years ago
Hello James, seems my soil needs lots of care

an EC of 74 is very low according to several guidelines it should be between 200 and 1200. Heard about biochar in the past, in a documentary about the so called Terra Preta, interesting stuff!

Calcium was extracted with NH4Ac if that clarifies anything. (same for Magnesium).

No boron on the test, I can ask for it if it's very relevant.
7 years ago
Hey there! Newbie inside, coming from Spain.

So I have inherited this land, was purchased by my grandpa about 30 years ago and never got cultivated for all this time. Time to farm! I plan to stablish an almond/pistachio orchard with lots of companion plants and crimson clover to keep bees and other beneficial insects happy. At plain sight its a sandy soil, low organic matter, a place where short grass and plants are naturally present. It has a well and water is only at 5-6 meters deep, even in drought months.


I made a test and am confused about teh results. Here we go:

pH: 8.0
Organic matter: 1.05%
Clay: 3.5%
Lime: 28.4%
Sand: 68.1%
Nitrogen: 930ppm (N)
C:N ratio: 6.7
Phosphorus: 21ppm (P2OS)
Potassium: 111ppm (K2O)
Calcium: 2400ppm (CaO)
Magnesium: 27 ppm (MgO) ----> (Ca/Mg Ratio = 8.7)
Sodium: 20ppm (Na2O)
Total carbonates: under 1%
Active limestone: under 1%
Sulphates: 55ppm
Iron: 5.8ppm
Manganese: 3.4ppm
Copper: under 0.5ppm
Zinc: under 0.5ppm
Electrical conductivity: 74 μS/cm


I guess the obvious move is to incorporate organic matter (worm castings for the win!) but what really confuses me is the high pH while having high sulphates, all guides tell to add sulphats to lower pH, won't I mess things up with so much Sulfur? or am I missing something. Also, if I add ferrous sulphate afterwards, is it going to leech or stay in soil? A friend of mine says I should test for aluminium, barium and arsenic just in case my land is contaminated, wtf?

Finally if you find any of the numbers so out of scale, please tell me

Thank you a lot in advance ^^
7 years ago