Burra Maluca wrote:My plans mostly involve taking a deep breath and concentrating my energies on tried-and-true food plants rather than on experimental ones.
Sweet potato season will be starting soon. I've been thinking about making a video about it and I will I guess pretty soon but I have been a bit lazy about it so for now just a written update.
My two favorite ornamental plants that I have referred to as Miss Bloom and Likes to Climb have done very well over winter. Always before I kept them as potted plants in the unheated room upstairs where they lived but just barely. This winter I just kept them as cuttings in pint jars of water in the south facing windows downstairs and they have done really well. Not nearly as much issue with spider mites overall and the lady bugs helped out with that too.
All through my work, along with selecting for sexual reproduction of superior lines, I've also worked to see just what a plant really needs to live and produce. For over winter storage, all a sweet potato needs at the beginning of the growing season is to not be dead. It doesn't matter how bad it looks when the longer days and warmer temps arrive, if the plant has life, it will soon be growing again. Doesn't matter at all to me what the "best" way to do it might be. I don't know how many plants I have, some died early on because the stems were not long enough and they didn't make it down to the water. I'm guessing I have about ten nice plants each of the two ornamentals and they have started growing nicely so each can easily make three or four new cuttings. Lots more than that actually if I keep letting them regrow after trimming and there is lots of time before they need to go out. They were just in the jars of water and fed once in a while with the stuff I squeeze out of my aquarium filter. This method was lots easier and more productive than keeping them as potted plants.
On the culinary side I'd have to go look to see how many I have, but again I'm getting pretty lazy. I remember I have plants #s 10 and 11. They are both very nice bushy, seedy plants with orange/orange nicely sweet roots that grow in the clump habit that I like. I also have plant # 7 which is similar except it has white/orange roots and is very, very seedy. All together I guess I have eight to ten culinary roots saved to grow this year. One is a 2025 volunteer with white/yellowish roots that I think I might like but need to grow more of it to see for sure. It's roots boarder on what I call clunkers, meaning they get bigger than I like. I prefer clusters of roots around six to eight ounces over a few much larger ones. I grow most of mine in pots, so it isn't an issue to just dump them out but if the really big ones were grown in the ground, it would be hard to harvest without damaging them. Also, if you have a three-pound sweet potato you can cut off a piece to eat and the rest will still keep for later, I would just rather have six 1/2-pound sweet potatoes.
I had mentioned in one of my videos that selecting for the traits I like I might also be selecting for the same boring heart shaped leaf. There is nothing wrong with that, I reckon, I just like a little more variety and the 2025 volunteer I mentioned has a thin finger shaped leaf so I'm going to turn it loose in the culinary patch.
I only have the two ornamentals but last year three or four great ornamentals volunteered but I did not keep them. Now that I know how easy it can really be to keep them, I'm going to save more of them from now on.
I've said before that I might not start any new seeds, but I always do, plus I always find volunteers. Volunteers are decreasing a little though because I'm keeping the garden more heavily mulched most of the time and that seem to prevent them from having a chance. I have the same issue with my marigolds, dill, radishes, mustard and so on but that's a different problem that needs addressed overall.
So, I probably will start some new seeds, but I think I'll open the vault, put in most of the newer seeds and get out some of the much older ones. They have lower probability of having all the preferred traits of course, but they also have a bit more diversity of phenotype and I think it might be fun to explore that more, now that I have little better handle on what I'm doing. Even back in the beginning, more than ten years ago some really nice ones showed up but I didn't keep them more than a year or two for backcrossing. To prevent contaminating the current project I'll keep sprouted from old seeds isolated from the rest. I did keep a small area around last year's patch mostly mulch free so should also have some volunteers.
Michael Helmersson wrote:Has anyone tried this? I did this years ago with some slight variations when planting Plum trees but I don't see any noticeably different results. I realize there are some odd features to her method but I can't resist the allure of anything contrarian:
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Ellen White Method
Martha Stephens wrote:Mark Reed, can you please share your methods of just seed planting for trees please? I have about 90 acres, 50 or so of which were logged heavily before I acquired it. I would like to replant from seed oaks, evergreens, maples, poplars, trees that were logged and try to reduce/eliminate much of the brushy privet that has taken over in place of the Hardwoods that were logged. Thanks!