Douglas Alpenstock wrote:Nice! Amazing to watch, and beautiful results.
I'm thinking that your results aren't from a random slice-and-dice though. You must be reading the log and acting accordingly. Any insights?
thanks douglas.
So most of the wood i cut is for someones order. This log above happened to be for full size 2x6. This was someone elses log and they chose to have it cut from that log.
So with my mill we have certain sizes we cut with. So for a nominal 2x4 the mill goes down 4 inches because of the 5/16 kerf on the edger blades.
So with that in mind. I can measure a log and take off about 3 inches due to the bottom slab wood. And than i can basically cut from there.
The fir log above got 3 passes of full size 2x6 and than one pass of full size 2x4
There is definitely maximum efficiency with every log. So this means we do not waste 2 inches of the log because some one wants a 2x10 from a log which could make a 2x12. we could cut 3 passes of 2x4 or 2 passes of 2x6 etc. from the log which will give 2x12.
I am not sure if this makes any sense. Putting it into words is somewhat challenging.
Another thing to look for is the size of the knots on the tree. Another is to try and cut what ever tree where it makes sense. Sometimes a 24' log with a banana in it is a waste. It would be easier to do a 10' and a 14'. It all depends on the log. Another thing i look for is the growth rings. Usually the slowest growing is the best. Last year we got a bunch of fir logs from a dry northern slope. All of the wood was beautiful and straight. Next to no knots and grew slowly. However the red cedar which came from that area was crap. It had powder worm in it which left a bunch of small holes throughout the whole tree.
Hopefully some of this answers your question.