Coydon Wallham

pollinator
+ Follow
since Mar 17, 2021
Merit badge: bb list bbv list
For More
Inter Michigan-Superior Woodland Forest
Apples and Likes
Apples
Total received
In last 30 days
8
Forums and Threads

Recent posts by Coydon Wallham

Ach, ye lads might be wishin to be aware that no self respectin bodger would be abusin their fro with no metal hammer! Ye be wantin a wooden club fer that I tells ya...

William Bronson wrote:I threw together this raised bed in the People Garden part of the Village Green community garden.
The People Garden is free for all to planting tend and harvest.
I've done some of each and this is the second bed I've built there.
It took 5or so cuts and 8 screws to make this from 1 big wide pallet and a couple of 2 foot x 4 foot pallets.
I brought bagged leaves for the very bottom, and then I asked the work crew there that day to fill it with whatever weeds they pulled.
Boy did they!
I will be topping it with compost and planting into it.
Suggestions welcomed!


No hugel-ey logs around to put at the bottom?
1 week ago

Donna Lynn wrote:Probably a "transfer station."  A local place with dumpsters (or large pits for more heavily populated areas) that individuals bring their trash to, that are periodically hauled off to the landfill.  It may also have separate dumpsters for recycling.  (I used to work at one in Oregon.)


Not to hijack Tiffaney's thread, but regional dialects/phrasing is related to what I wasted four years of higher education on and it still fascinates me anyway.

I've not heard of "transfer station" anywhere around Wisconsin or Minnesota outside of busses and trains. I wonder how widespread "the dump" is since I've never noticed anyone confused in four decades of asking "Where does the Lone Ranger take his trash?" and telling them (or having them tell me) "to the dump, to the dump, to the dump dump dump"...
1 week ago
I had a series of flats on my wheelbarrows so tried switching one over to an "always flat". I think I'll be figuring out what it takes to do pneumatic the 'right' way soon...
1 week ago

Tiffaney Dex wrote:On Saturday morning, when the trash transitory deposit ( ? I have no idea how to translate that)


I think in the USonian dialect that would be "the dump"?

Tiffaney Dex wrote:I can recuperate the hulls easily enough here, as the traditional grain is buckwheat.


According to the OYEB site, the hulls should be non-roasted and "fully dusted", whatever that involves.

Do your chair cushions have some sort of natural fill in them? My rule of thumb is to not expose any petroleum based substances to temperatures significantly higher than a warm room unless they are known to be designed and tested for heat exposure. My concern is less about flammability or degradation over time, but possible off-gassing as they deteriorate. From what I've put together, factories where plastics are formed at higher temps are where the bulk of cancer cases originate...
1 week ago
Mineral (rock) wool is not person-friendly, it shouldn't be needed in a situation like this. Regular wool is, as far as I'm aware, the most flame-resistant textile available, needing temperatures over 600*F to melt (it does not ignite).

Wool was standard issue for all fire department gear up until the 1970s, when 3M worked with regulatory agencies to add an arbitrary stipulation to the Fire Department codes. Since then, all gear must undergo three washings in hot water before initial use, even though there was no problem that this process addressed (wool does not retain stains readily and washes fine in cold water) and no correlation with environmental conditions gear would otherwise experience. But the process damages wool, so Nomex then became the new standard material for fire resistance (and just happens to be patented by 3M).

Over time, firefighters who have lost fellows prematurely to cancer have referenced studies showing carcinogenic outcomes associated with Nomex and attempted to change regulations so that natural wool could once again be utilized, but one might imagine how their relative influence over regulatory agencies has progressed...

A big issue with natural wool might be regional availability. Around me in the US midwest, I know a couple people who raise sheep, mostly for meat. When they shear them they are only interested in the main pelt- they are willing to give the selvage (is "cut-offs" a better term here?) away for free, sometimes having so much they need to advertise to give it away. Of course with free stuff you are likely to want to wash it before use if you will be sleeping or sitting on it. OYEB offers processed wool selvage for order if no opportunity for free stuff exists around you...

In general, I'd suggest favouring the materials mentioned in my previous post as wool seems more insulative and the other materials will do more to help radiate heat away from the bench, to the room or the bench occupants...

One big caveat with wool and heat/flames: look out for fashion "wool"! Almost all garments these days that claim to be "wool", even those that say something like '100% merino wool', are blends with synthetic materials that melt and burn at very low temperatures, with very little resistance. Thankfully the surrounding wool tends to keep these flash points from spreading, but it is easy to ruin the garment and I would not want that spot touching my skin when it happens. '100% merino wool' often means that the 70% of the garment that is actually wool is only from merino sheep, kind of like the "Sex Panther" magnetic powers demonstrated by Will Ferrell...
1 week ago
My RMH bench is my bed. The first year, I placed cotton bags full of buckwheat hulls tied together directly on the bricks of the bench. The next year I decided to experiment with hemp 'sand' and natural latex chunks instead. This time I went with a recommended frame, because the cotton bags had moved around too much on their own. Probably should have just built a frame for the bags, but figured I'd have a second bench soon and would use the opportunity to experiment with a new frame then.

The frame is just pallet wood slats with an inch gap between them. The slats run under the side support boards so each gap becomes a channel to radiate warmed air off to the side. An inch seems good spacing to allow flow while keeping the bedding from sinking in and blocking it up.

The cotton bags and buckwheat hulls are 100% organic, as are the hemp sand (hulls) and latex chunks, and all were purchased from Open Your Eyes Bedding (Lynne is a fellow Permie here). The hemp and latex were put in a 3" topper case from Amazon. Lynne said they normally recommend a 2" topper full of the hemp on the bottom and a 1" topper with the latex on top, but that they might mix fine in a single sleeve and had been meaning to experiment with it, so I decided to save the cost and go with a single. I have found that with the mix the latex floats on top and migrates away as I toss an turn in bed.

I'll experiment with fill levels also when I have time- there is an art to bedding like this. Despite the temptation to 'tweak' the arrangement and a bit of fussiness over how the materials sit, they are insanely comfortable. What had become chronic back pain for me like five years ago has all but disappeared since adopting these materials. It might be from general permies lifestyle changes, but when I sleep in a guestroom somewhere else the pain tends to return. I've heard mention of "grounding" in conjunction with these materials.

I should also mention that this bench is in a Yurt I use all winter. The hulls and latex have done an excellent job of tolerating the heat and passing it through to the top. Some nights when it has gotten to -30F outside and slightly below freezing for the inside air temp, the bench has remained very warm to the touch all night, and very comfortable on top with a sheet, wool blanket, and conventional quilt- the feather bed topper was too warm to ever use this year, except on returning from trips when the bench was not fully heated before bed time. Also also worth mentioning these materials have very rarely been found to trigger allergies and the rodents that have been exploring the yurt and avoiding traps have not shown interest in any of the materials, not even with the bags of excess material stored in the sheds where the little buggers hang out more. If you explore the OYEB website Lynne describes how she evaluated her materials in great detail, including experiments with flammability (hint: amazingly fire resistant, even with government certification tests).

Back to Tiffany's bench- if you are able to order from OYEB or find something similar, construction is modular. The materials can be used to make any size or thickness desired, particularly if you sew your own. I don't know how much hotter your bench might get than mine, but wood with air channels that will be kept open should not cause a problem. For extra peace of mind, the 'cookie rack' effect could be obtained from an old futon frame. In the university town I had been in, at the beginning and end of every school year the curbs were littered with old metal frames like this that no one wanted. I'm not sure the spacing between the metal slats would be sufficient to fully support this type of mattress material alone, but with pallet wood like I have laid across the metal frame I think that would assure flow and spacing to protect the wood from being stressed by any heat the bench could put out...
1 week ago
At boot camp like four years ago, we discovered someone had gifted a bag of raw beans (25?, 50?lbs) to the base camp. It was open and already a few years old. We found an old air popcorn popper and tried that, but it was obnoxious to run and gave poor results. We ended up running batches using a wok on top of the classroom Rocket Mass Heater. Very satisfying results, but quite a bit of work, mess and time.

For me it has become one of those things I'm glad I know how to do but even gladder I've networked and found a friend nearby with roasting equipment and more knowledge of the field's nuances...
1 week ago

Matt Greenblood wrote:I am curious if anyone has tried using a wine/whiskey barrel instead of the plastic bin for this? They are liquid tight and I'm thinking that if I treated them with all natural tung oil on the interior and exterior that would increase their longevity even further. Just doing some brainstorming on this topic and thought I'd check in with the experts. Thanks for sharing this great idea with the world!


Coopered barrels are only liquid tight as long as enough liquid remains in the barrel to keep the reeves moist and  expanded between the staves. The goal here is to keep the proto-candy in the container as dry as possible so that it achieves jerky consistency. There needs to be an inch or two at the bottom of a barrel and the layer of sawdust in the bottom of the willow feeder vessel is there to soak up any liquid that might make it in.

At first it might sound like the small air gaps would accelerate the jerky process, but the process is that excess urine going in when dry and not soaked up by the sawdust will leak out until the reeves are moistened enough to expand. I'd expect a smelly mess.

I think they would also be quite heavy full and not nearly as practical to move about as Rubbermaid 'cans'. It would definitely be an improved aesthetic, though.
2 weeks ago
The original question about facing of the roof slope on the side of a hill, along with Mr. Daley's presence here, made me think of a Simpson's episode. The family travels to Australia and is forced to seek refuge in the US embassy. A diplomat proudly shows them the evidence of US ingenuity used to bring the comforts of home to down under with a highly complex, powered toilet that makes sure wastewater is reversed to exit the unit in an anti-clockwise direction.


Given access to enough resources, practically any 'design flaw' can be compensated for. But if designing from scratch, why not utilize the best ideals from the start?

I'm guessing at the motivation here- is this a south facing slope where you are seeking greater solar input to reach the taller wall under the high point of the roof with?
3 weeks ago