Coydon Wallham

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since Mar 17, 2021
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Recent posts by Coydon Wallham

I feel it is good to move in the direction of the materials ethics you mention, but it is a question of what kind of progress is made and how. RMHs come from a 'scrapper' ethic, making real world improvements for people that need something that works. Now.

For me, the priority is materials that are affordable and promise to be environmentally neutral or positive. I avoid cement because of embedded energy, but also because a large slab in the ground will remain an obtrusive part of the environment well after it's initial purpose is forgotten. Cinder blocks on the other hand can easily be removed and repurposed, so I consider them a compromise sometimes acceptable when alternatives offer little promise.

Of course, cement isn't an option for a RMH in any aspect that doesn't have an easy, preferable alternative. Firebricks seem a comparable situation. There is an embodied level of energy and cultural dependence to make and transport them. But I see no downside past that point. They present no threat of toxicity to the environment and break down into natural elements solely by physical means as far as I'm aware. For my ethical calculations, the good they can do in application far outweighs the costs of production, assuming the general manufacturing and transportation base exists in anything close to what it is at present.

One element of "local" is how to view the existing production and distribution networks. 'Scrapping' makes use of readily available materials that would otherwise become landfill waste. But if use of such materials becomes part of a codified, growing system, it helps reinforce production methods that produce waste and excess. It would seem a tough call at what point making use of 'waste' products becomes encouragement to produce more of that waste. Using scrapped materials though often makes an RMH more reliable and reproducible than creating a similar element from local, scratch material. I guess that is the trade off you are looking to find help deciding on?

This is just to reflect on the difficulty of innovating in the direction you mention without practical experience of working examples, knowing what change has decent promise of being part of a fully functional system and all the possible trade-offs a change may have on connected elements. I believe there are many innovators out there who have made systems that include incredible novel changes, but they work in such a way that it is difficult to communicate what they embody and how others may implement them.

So I have some experience to address your questions, but it is impossible to say if the would apply to something you construct if you plan to deviate much from common design elements my system is based upon.

I have an 8" system based upon the Ernie and Erica barrel/ducted bench model. I am in a yurt with limited insulation (my primary deviation from the assumed norm), and have found the need to have the system running to keep the room livable during the winter. As such, I've discovered it would likely have been better to install a 6" system. I do cook on the barrel as my almost sole source of cooking heat in the winter. I don't notice the lack of fine controls over temperature, it is something I find easily adjusted to through any number of creative innovations and the overall aesthetic just feels wonderful. I can boil water in the center of the barrel top, but it takes a good while running at full blast. The only other problem that comes to mind is that one of my go to dishes is a 'stir fry' that is more of an enhanced sautee' I'm told. Keeping frying temperatures going for close to an hour can make the space uncomfortably hot even when it is -10* outside. (I also found out that high temperatures can destroy the coating on plastic eyeglass lenses, need to find actual glass ones somewhere.) Not sure if a 6" system would be different. Then again, a little sweat in the winter season is probably an overall healthy thing.

For a situation with a well sealed and insulated space, an 8" system basically means you need to run the system less than a 6" one. I suspect the only reason to go with 6" would be if you wanted to save a bit of space with your mass.

I have to wonder what objections you have to wool insulation? Are you referring to rock wool/super wool? Or actual sheep's wool?
Looks more to me like Thomas Rubino decided to build a rocket filing cabinet for his office...
2 days ago
I've had a couple Clam brand pop up shelters that have a robust pole system to them, used for smaller item storage and an outdoor kitchen. I had a protective tarp break and dump a foot of snow on one, it was like new once shoveled out and the sides popped back into place.

The problem is the plastic/nylon/whatever sides. They can't take extended UV exposure and if they collapse from wind/snow/rain, anything sharp stored within becomes a knife to slice through the materials.

Currently working to replace the outdoor kitchen with a 'Quonset hut' style structure. A row of arches made from Alder saplings and hazelnut or whatever for cross bracing, with a canvas tarp thrown over it. I hate the plastic tarps because if one is used for it's full useful life, at the end it just spews those tiny strips of plastic to the winds...
3 days ago
I know you don't have the leak problem, but this article, after describing various problems with them, gives advice at the end on how successful living roofs have been done by them.

The most successful roof we have used is the one that makes use of a thick waterproof layer and then “planting trays” with pots of sedum.  The sedums are low-growing and make for easy replacement.


Maybe 'plant' the pots instead of the plants?

Are you allowed to have solar panels up there?
What, this thing?
6 days ago

Stephen B. Thomas wrote:
Man, that pallet shed looks great! Nice work!

I'd have to lobby pretty aggressively in order to have a metal roof accepted, but I know it's been approved in the past. Building stuff at the Lab has a different set of criteria than that built at Basecamp. In any case, I ought to check in at Home ReSource or whatever it's called in Missoula and see if they have any of those panels available. Chances are that's where I'll be able to find these kinds of materials, at least in the short term.


I've never seen any at the ReStore here (lots of used HVAC ducts for an RMH though). The dump sometimes gets cut offs or tear downs with usable sections, not enough for something like this though. I'd suggest pretending you are going to put up a 50x100' pole barn (Paul would be down with that, right?), and call around looking for someone that you could contract for it. They would likely be the ones getting in the pallets and willing to deal with the public.

Also the camo colour thing might help sell the idea for an ant farm build. I'd like to see a drone pic to compare the new roof to my shed that is solid "Forest Green". I was thinking of listing the colours I used for reference, burnt umber or what not. Made me think back to that big 64 crayon box to come up with the colours, so I started to search on that and then thought better of it (hope a little off colour humour is okay here)...

Coydon Wallham wrote:To free yourself from pressurized hoses and dirty handles, this can be used anywhere: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00S59ULW0?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details


I've built two sink setups with this model, the hoses running from a 5ish gallon bucket/pot and to a piece of brake line bent to resemble a kitchen sink faucet and bolted to the opening on a sink.

I like it a bit better than the ones used at Wheaton Labs. Those seemed to produce more water flow per pump, but their complexity also seemed associated with more failures (though mileage on those was also likely much higher). The simple round one also gives a bit of control over the rate of flow depending on how much pressure you place on the diaphragm.

I do like that the pressurized valve ones are all metal though. Whichever one you do use, just be sure it isn't left set up on a night when a hard frost is possible...


Update/sort of correction on my system- the floor of the yurt freezes on most winter nights and I've frequently forgotten to move the pump up before bed. It may take an hour or two of running the RMH in the morning before it thaws, but this foot pump and silicone lines are still original and fully functional...
1 week ago
For my Willow Feeder, I found a contractor nearby that regularly does building projects using the type of metal roofing on the Willow Bank. They had a pallet full of dozens of "slip sheets", the top and bottom sheets from when they get pallets of the roofing shipped to them. As they have cosmetic damage from the straps holding the pallet together, they set them aside and sell them for 1/3 the price you would normally pay for a new one at a big box home store. If you end up wanting to focus your time on other aspects of the build before next winter, there might be a contractor or two like this around Missoula...

Go for the camo effect for bonus scrapper cool points:
Also, I've wondered about how much winter car washes help with road salt. I'm usually thinking that if I get the car/truck washed to rinse off the salts, as soon as I drive home from the wash it will accumulate another coat. It seems one would have to coordinate with local DOT officials to see when and where the salt is actually being applied to know when it is worth paying for a wash, but in Wisconsin you basically have to talk to State, County, and Town officials to know about all the roads, and I doubt the last two would even have anyone to communicate with the public about that around here.
1 week ago
That does raise a related issue in coping with the road salt though. When I was shopping for cars the winter before last, someone in a nearby town selling a Suburu that I ended up passing on did have a huge pole barn with numerous vehicles, and they were applying some sort of undercoat to cars and trucks in there. I asked what they would charge to bring in my own vehicle to do a coating on, but the owner said he was just doing it for himself and neighbors for the time being. I meant to call back later in the year but didn't keep track of the number...

Looking a little into this, it seems there is a thick, long lasting wax that is applied to newer vehicles that have no rust on them. And there are oil coatings that penetrate and neutralize existing corrosion and providing shorter term protection from additional decay. Are there other methods?

Have these products been around long enough to have been evaluated in environmental terms, does any of the chemical 'gick' get released into the environment after application as the vehicle is driven or stored? Is it hazardous to come in contact with while doing maintenance on the vehicle?
1 week ago