Tigernut (Cyperus esculentus var. sativus)

I am doing some research on this plant and I am interested in any information related to it.  I especially would appreciate additional information from you guys on cultivars, zoning, and growing experience.  Is this an annual or perennial (I believe perennial due to the tubers)?  This plant is not well known in the U.S. but is popular in Spain so I am trying to gather enough information to determine whether it is a viable permaculture plant here in zone 7-8 eastern region of the U.S. for animal/plant guilds - perhaps to supplement in rotational grazing pasture.  Here is some information I have gathered.



The grass produces a crop similar to peanuts that you can harvest from the roots tubers that store the plants nutrients which can be dried (right picture).  Tigernuts have long been recognised for their health benefits as they are high in fibre, proteins, and natural sugars. They have a high content of soluble glucose and oleic acid. Along with a high energy content (starch, fats, sugars and proteins), they are rich in minerals such as phosphorous and potassium and in vitamins E and C.  It is believed that they help to prevent heart attacks, thrombosis and cancer especially of the colon.  Typically, 100g (0.27 lbs) tigernuts are 386 cal with 7% proteins, 26% fats (oils), 31% starch, 21% glucose. They contain 26% fibre of which 14% is non-soluble and 12% soluble and are naturally sweet.



It is the chief ingredient in "horchata" (left picture), a healthy and popular beverage which is part of the Mediterranean diet.  I see this as a potential competitor for non-dairy milk alternatives.  Tigernuts are generally dried out to preserve them. This can take three months and they need turning over occasionally to ensure uniform drying. This can be kept for several years and can be reconstituted by soaking overnight.  I found a video below marketing the product which has a segment of how it is cultivated and made, mind you it is promotional so it leaves you with the inspiration as if they have a cure for aids, lol.  The soil they grew the tigernuts in was dead.  I don't see anything special about their soil for me not to grow it here - other then it is really sandy.

That looks really interesting.  Looks like it's a perennial according to this link  http://www.nvsuk.org.uk/growing_show_vegetables_1/tiger_nuts.php

Ebay uk has them as fish bait.  I think I might order some to try. 

Class B noxious in WA, OR, CA, CO
http://plants.usda.gov/java/profile?symbol=CYESS

Genus puts it with a bunch of wetland plants...  Given its origin, I wonder what the summer heat requirement is for production?

seems to like it hot, as it was grown in florida, and it did mention in the information that it does not like shade, but does like moisture

Yeah, I found out it is indeed a perennial, thanks.  I also heard it is a favorite among fisherman trying to catch carp.  Paul, your link is not working - but be sure not to confuse this with cyperus esculentus which is not the specific cultivated strain (var. sativus) and as I have read have some different characteristics.  But if it does grow fast then I see that as a bonus since it is an edible plant.  I was wondering about using this in pasture which could be a potentially large source of food for grazing pigs or I could dig them up to eat or make the drink.  The whole idea seems very promising as part of an animal/plant guild but I have absolutely no experience with it, nor do I know anyone who does.

I know, I don't know anyone either, but I'm buying some and trying a small patch for next year to have a go.  Sounds like it could be good.

The feed stores in N. Florida carry that from time to time (dried 'nuts' are in the 20 gallon bulk bins among the clover seed) ... used to establish plots for wildlife.

I'm going to try to grow them. 

Hey Ludi, if you do follow through with that can you let me know (if any) what cultivar you settled on and a supplier.  I would love a followup on your experiences.

The exact species that you asked about is available from JL Hudson.

http://jlhudsonseeds.net/SeedlistCN-CZ.htm

Read his genus description as well as the variety description,  It has sowing/harvesting info, uses (modern&ancient) as well as a lot of useful data (including hog fodder).

I have dealt with him before, and he is very trustworthy.  Good company to support.  Be certain to request a catalog, as he has over 90 pages of mostly hard to find plants.

This is one of the alternative crops I considered but was stopped by the "noxious weed" status here in WA state.  PLease keep posting y'all, I'm interested in experiences with it.  I'm considering using it in a closed system (recirculating) Aquaponics fish production.  Thanks

I would love to analyze how it would grow in an aquaponics system.  It usually takes 8 months before harvest so it does put a burden on your production numbers.  I would not worry about it being a noxious weed as it is sterile unlike its relative which often is mistakenly compared.

I'll put them in my aquaponics system and let you know how they do! 

Interesting...never heard of tiger nuts before. Horchata down here (mexican version) is made with rice instead. Know if they make other goodies with these nuts?

Seems like all the vids info about growing them is geared towards machine harvesting.
Some good looking 'soil' they've got there too.

Hey Ludi do you have some? Or have a line on where to get them (local)?

ape99

The video is some kind of marketing gimmick -  that soil is dead to the world so I don't see what they mean by quality assurances, lol!  The video does have very important information on its processing though.  It actually sweetens when it is dried.  I read that the tigernut is grown in South America and that different regions produce different flavors (may be different cultivar) but I have not identified any cultivar as it is not a well known plant other than in parts of the Mediterranean and parts of Latin America. 

You had me at horchata. I ordered some and will try them this spring.

I ordered 1/4lb of these and they are pretty neat looking. I wonder if anyone has tried them as a lawn alternative? Seems like a real win win if I keep a patch of lawn but it too grows me a useful crop.

I was hoping you can share your experiences in the future because I know absolutely nobody who has worked with this plant.  It would be awesome if it could replace a lawn but I do not know how well it would establish.  I do like the idea of going outside and being able to eat grass, takes edible landscaping to a new extreme.

I've got some experience with both the weedy version and the cultivated stuff.

weed: nutsedge is a pretty incredible plant.  the "nuts" are really small, but have a pleasant taste.  the plants are small, but I've seen roots from a single plant run at least five feet horizontally in loose soil.  the plants are relatively easy to remove, but the nuts are not, which accounts for the difficulty getting rid of it.  could easily replace a lawn.

chufa: bought 1/4 pound of tubers a few years back.  they're probably five times the size of the wild weedy tubers.  been growing it in gallon pots since then.  goes in the greenhouse over the winter, since it wouldn't be cold hardy here.  it hasn't really been thriving, but it's limping along.  should I ever get a larger greenhouse built, I think chufa will stay in there permanently.  horchata is roughly the best thing ever, but I haven't harvested any of the nuts yet in the interest of expanding my stock.  much less vigorous than the weedy stuff.  where I'm at, making a lawn out of this stuff would not work, but that might be an option someplace warmer.  chufa does like to stay wet, so it would do well in a soggy spot.

not a lot of information, but I hope it's at least mildly helpful.

I ordered my tubers from JL Hudson. 

We have some native or naturalized nutsedges that grow here in wet years, but I haven' tried to dig for their tubers. 

I've got some experience with both the weedy version and the cultivated stuff.

weed: nutsedge is a pretty incredible plant.  the "nuts" are really small, but have a pleasant taste.  the plants are small, but I've seen roots from a single plant run at least five feet horizontally in loose soil.  the plants are relatively easy to remove, but the nuts are not, which accounts for the difficulty getting rid of it.  could easily replace a lawn.

chufa: bought 1/4 pound of tubers a few years back.  they're probably five times the size of the wild weedy tubers.  been growing it in gallon pots since then.  goes in the greenhouse over the winter, since it wouldn't be cold hardy here.  it hasn't really been thriving, but it's limping along.  should I ever get a larger greenhouse built, I think chufa will stay in there permanently.  horchata is roughly the best thing ever, but I haven't harvested any of the nuts yet in the interest of expanding my stock.  much less vigorous than the weedy stuff.  where I'm at, making a lawn out of this stuff would not work, but that might be an option someplace warmer.  chufa does like to stay wet, so it would do well in a soggy spot.

not a lot of information, but I hope it's at least mildly helpful.

Thanks so much for that much appreciated information.  I as well am in a zone 7/8 area so your incite is ideally suited for my area.  A few questions. Do you plant the tubers with good activation rates?  If they like to be wet, what do you feel about these in an aquaponics system, I mean are they fast growers so I would not have to wait an entire growing season?  Hell, I think aquaponics would solve the trouble of harvesting but I am worried of the time required to harvest.

I'm abit confused why are people treating them as long-term annuals or perennials? The plant did originate as an annual but according to A History of World Agriculture it was a crop in short rotation during and after the flooding period of the Nile.

Eatyourgreens channel on youtube grow it as a short crop and so does a farm in Quebec (90 days)

I could easily see there being a benefit to a longer season but after a while wouldn't return diminish?

Should I plant my tubers in soil a net pot and submerge in shallow water in my aquaponics system?  Or what would you do to grow them aquaponically?

Ahipa wrote:
I'm abit confused why are people treating them as long-term annuals or perennials? The plant did originate as an annual but according to A History of World Agriculture it was a crop in short rotation during and after the flooding period of the Nile.

Eatyourgreens channel on youtube grow it as a short crop and so does a farm in Quebec (90 days)

I could easily see there being a benefit to a longer season but after a while wouldn't return diminish?

This question can be asked of so many perennials that are typically grown as annuals, sweet potato, tomato, peppers, etc.

Many of them are grown as annuals because they are tropical or subtropical, and won't survive temperate winters.  Others may produce better as annuals.  In some cases, it may just fit better with the industrial agricultural model to have a concentrated harvest period to efficiently use machinery or migrant labor.  

Growing things as perennials, contrary to standard practice, may sacrifice some productivity in terms of primary product - but there are also secondary & tertiary yields that may take precedence depending on needs of the system - soil conservation, reduced need for labor in sowing, food security, resilience, longer harvest window, emergency caloric storages, ground cover, bee or animal forages, green mulch, carbon fixation, aesthetic value, biodiversity, soil conditioning, etc., etc.  It must be stressed that needs of a primary producer may be very different than those of a small-scale homesteader.  

In making a transition to a more permanent agriculture, I suppose we are in a long-haul process of trial-and-error.  Some of the plants that have been bred for annual agriculture may need to be adapted back towards perennial culture.  Some may prove worthwhile in some systems, others may be discovered to work best in less-destructive forms of annual agriculture, such as no-dig annual polycultures, intercropped with perennial species.  With a species that has been adapted to annual culture, it may be possible to re-naturalize the species so it is self-sustaining in a stable system, rather than needing constant inputs of labor, water & soil fertility.  That would be worthwhile in some systems, even if primary yield is significantly decreased.  

Sometimes those of us experimenting with the edges may have a tendency to fall prey to perennial idealism, cramming as many species of exotic perennials as possible into backyard systems.  But if you compare the caloric yield-per-acre of of annual potato culture with the caloric yield of perennial vegetables such as artichokes or asparagus, I conclude that annuals will continue to have an important place in my garden.  Comparing apples to oranges, but an important comparison when we are not looking at permaculture through wild rose-colored glasses.  

Hey Ludi, as far as growing in aquaponics, as far as I know you will be the first.  I am a little worried that it may be getting late in the season to expect much unless you somehow keep them warm enough.  I found a potentially good cultivar for my area in NC.  The company claims that their strain is better acclimated for this area than the Spanish variety.  They are sold out unfortunantly but as soon as they have stock I am going to buy some.  It is ridiculously cheap!

http://www.cypruskneechufa.com/index.html

I've decided to try growing them in a net pot in my half barrel beds. We're still getting some warm days and not too cold nights, so I think if I can get them started in pots which I can move into a protected spot when frost is forecast, I can grow them through the winter for a good head start on next year's growing season.

Thank you for that link!

How did this plant work out for those who tried growing it?

I also would like to know how it worked for others. I ordered 12oz of these and am doing a trial in my climate this year.

If I ever planted them they must have died, but I don't remember. I had a bunch of health problems that derailed my experiments, so I've pretty much started over with everything in the past couple years. So maybe I'll try again with these.

Any results with everyone's experiments?

Re: Edible Chufa, Cyperus esculentus var sativus - aka Tigernuts

I have experimented twice in growing "Tigernuts," the edible and nonaggressive variety [b]sativus[/b] of [u]Cyperus esculentus[/u].  I live in the foothills of the Adirondacks, zone 4, with poor shady soil and a short growing season - but frequent rains and plenty of fungus.  I bought a paper bag of seed Tigernuts in 2018 from SeedWorld in FL.  They were still mostly viable after soaking in 2021!

Here's my experience:  They are easy to plant and the sedge fronds are attractive.  It seemed to me that each set of fronds made a set of tuber nutlets.  (No flowering sedge means no seedy spread for var sativus!).  They were pretty easy to dig:  not as easy as potatoes, but easier than sunchokes.  Best to fork under them about 6inches to loosen, and then pull up the plant and feel through the rootlets to pull out the small ball-like tubers.  The fronds naturally die back in the fall (and might be used for cordage?).  But if you wait too long, the fronds will just rip off at ground-level, leaving the tubers in the ground.  So, you need the fork.  On youtube, there is a video indicating that commercial growers BURN the died-down fronds.  This is interesting as it might help process the roots in some way, idk.  I would like to try an experimental burn some day to see what it does.

This is where most online sites get vague.  They just say "wash the tubers well, and dry."  Well, the tubers are very hairy, like a man's cheeks and chin.  Rootlets coming out the sides, and a heavy beard cluster at the bottom.  At the top is a little stem-like remnant where it connected to the plant.  So first, you have to disconnect most of the rootlets and then get off the attached dirt.  I say dirt, because it sometimes seems to be a sticky blackish green algae-like scum, not sandy.  Maybe that is just in my fungusy area, idk.  Screening and hose pressure help, but don't do enough to remove the dirt taste in my experience.  If used for wildlife or animal feed, this might be fine but it still introduces the eater to soil microbes which can be pathogenic.  I do not advise eating roots raw, unless you can peel off the outer layer, like for a carrot.  The Chufa tubers are way too small for that!  

In 2018 I ended up using a copper pot scrubber on the tubers, in a basin of water with a plastic grooved mat at the bottom to hold the nutlets as I abraded them.  This year, I rinsed many times after scrubbing with a rough muslin cloth and even a toothbrush!  I really wanted to see how tasty they would be with no dirt.  In this time- and water-consuming process, I got to examine each and every chufa tuber.  Probably half got thrown out because they: floated (a few), were dark colored and hence had dead brown nasty-tasting mush inside (about 25%) or had holes from some type of bug (about 24%).  So that's pretty poor.  But likely in a sunnier place with more robust growth, the tubers would be more numerous and healthier.  None of the online sites mentioned dark tubers being rotten so maybe that is in my yard.  My strawberry roots in the non-raised rows also had some rot this year.  

In 2018 I used a dehydrator at 110f to dry before storage.  This was not enough.  The moisture on the interior migrated outward and the stored tubers first became musty, and then grew white fuzzy mold.  I put them on the back steps to throw out, but some critter ate them anyways.  This year (after putting the best tubers in a hanging basket to dry away from rodents, for "seed" next year) I tried pan-drying the tubers I'd use for food.  They looked wrinkled and dry and I put the small batch in a jar at room temp with a cloth on top.  After a week or two, they grew mold.  (The "seed" tubers drying in the hanging basket are still fine).  So #1 Chufa storage rule is:  tubers must never be stored in glass, even if devitalized, and with a wide open mouth to the jar!  Most sites recommend to store in a paper bag in an airy place (protected from rodents).

I had a second chance to try to preserve chufa this year, when I harvested the back yard crop.  I had planted these because I have a brand new bed that isn't full of wildflowers yet.  I was going to try the way Mother Earth News had said to make chufa flour:  boil for 30min and then bake at 200f for an hour, followed by grinding.  Will Bonsall has been experimenting with chufa flour, which he found can be gummy, but is generally used as a 50% substitution with grain for a healthy porridge.   I took the boiled nutlets out after 10, 20, 30 minutes.  Each time it seemed easier to rub dirt off with a coarse muslin cloth.  After 30 min, the little stem could be flicked off with a fingernail, which also dislodged the encircling dirt. The thin brown skins of the tubers mostly flaked or rubbed off, leaving a light colored, satiny-surfaced chufa interior.  This was as clean as they were going to get!  So the 30min boil was important for dirt removal, and interestingly the tubers did NOT soften like most vegetables would.  Very cool to retain crunch after 30min of boiling.  This is a plus for use of chufa as a nutritious and crunchy addition to soups and stews.  (But they still have to be cleaned of dirt first!)  After baking at low temp in the oven, they got a lot smaller and wrinkled, but still chewable.  

Richo Cech of StrictlyMedicinalSeeds.com grows and sells small quantities of Cyperus esculentus var sativa seeds.  He advises soaking the chufa tubers overnight after harvesting, and then rubbing between two towels to clean.  I imagine that the overnight soak has a similar effect to the 30min boil, but haven't tried it yet.  It would be a lower-energy input way to loosen the affixed dirt.  

Bottom line for "Tigernuts" in upstate NY after two seasons of experimentation:  I'll keep going.  The sedge fronds are attractive and they GROW here, where many things can't.   I like that they are a FOOD, instead of grass.  I didn't have to help them grow, and in fact the greens liked our abundant rain.  But I might try slightly raised rows or hills to improve aeration and loosen the soil for the roots.  I like that harvest is in the cool end of season without bugs, and that the fronds might be used for cordage.  I like the flavor of the bigger tubers, which do remind me of coconut.  Their nutrition is top-notch.  They are a different kind of plant (monocot, sedge, C4 photosynthetic pathway, can live in wetter or sometimes flooded spots as long as there is sun) and so are a good hedge for unknown seasonal weather.  They could support the wild turkeys and grouse, rodents, if I want to go that route.

That said, I need to have more keeper tubers per plant.  I also need to nail down a low-input method of cleaning the little hairy buggers.  And I need to nail down the storage of "seed tubers" and edible forms of processed tubers.  That is a lot to nail down!  Kind of like jumping from point A to point C, right?  Well, here is my two cents to add to our collective knowledge base.  Would anyone be able to add more hints about making Chufa / Tigernuts / Cyperus esculentus var sativus, a worthwhile food plant?  Thanks.  

ps. I want to mention the concern, that var sativus is propagated by the replanting of tubers, instead of seed.  On the one hand, this keeps it from becoming a weedy invasive like yellowsedge.   But on the other hand, this means that each plant is a  genetic clone.  The Tigernut, var sativus, is therefore very vulnerable to blight in the same way the potato tuber was in Ireland.  Low genetic diversity is not a good thing.  

Hello good morning , I am Boateng and would like to share with you all the experience I have on this crop . I have been farming it with my family and in the hometown I was born that is the basic and popular business in the area . You can reach me via email on boatengbentil30@gmail.com. Thank you

I found that tigernuts grew well in a large container with groundnuts.