Chris Emerson wrote:Good to know, thanks!
Tj Jefferson wrote:Steve, this technique has been described to me as "root disturbance". Basically you can induce a new shoot by exposing a section of feeder root to sunlight, and then transplant the child to a new location. I really like this technique, it doesn't require any special equipment, and the roots tend to be much better developed than traditional peat moss layered cuttings.
You have to be a little careful not to stress the parent plant too much and optimally expose a good distance from the parent so you aren't taking more root than you have to. I wait at least 2-3 years before doing it, then let the plant recover if you are taking a significant portion of the feeder system. Some vaccinia seem to allow this more readily, I have had more success with rabbiteye than northern or southern.
Looks like a great system for you, nice work!
Gurkan Yeniceri wrote:I have 4 blueberries in pots. Cuttings never worked for me. I will be trying this method too.
Karl Treen wrote:I had no idea this was possible with my blueberry bushes. Definitely going to give this a try!!!
Another tree that often puts out a lot of these child plants is the pawpaw. Love that plant!
Max Kennedy wrote:Looks awfully tall for blueberry, might that be huckleberry? There is a slight difference.
Tim Kivi wrote:
I looked at my blueberry plant and I didn’t want to risk harming it because it’s nowhere near as tall as the one in the video.
Today I’ve tried my usual method to see if it’ll work: put a cutting in potting mix, protect with a PVC pipe topped with a plastic cup to keep in moisture, and water daily. We’ll see if it works.
Steve Thorn wrote:I didn't realize that paw paws did that either until the other day, excited to hopefully get some paw paw children soon too. Mine hasn't made any yet, but it's about 8 feet tall now so I'm hoping it may be soon!
Matthew Nistico wrote:It is my understanding - or I guess I should say my assumption just from handling a few blueberry transplants over the years - that most commercial cultivars are produced through rooted cuttings, as opposed to grafting. If so, then this should assure that the side shoots we propagate through the technique advocated herein should grow true to type.
Somebody please confirm or correct me if this is not always so...
Emilie McVey wrote:If there is another thread better for this question, please advise.
I once had five blueberry plants. About the second or third year, their leaves began to turn yellow-green. Being advised that they probably lacked iron and that putting a rusty nail in the soil beside each plant would remedy that, I did. Three of the plants died, so I relocated the remaining two plants to another bed with more sun. I now have one plant, which hasn't grown at all in two+ years and produces maybe six berries.
Does anyone have an idea of what is wrong? I tried not to let them dry out, I tried to acidify the soil a bit with tea and diluted vinegar, back when I still had five plants. Strawberries are growing very nicely in the bed in which I had originally planted them, if that gives a clue.
Thanks in advance for your input.
leila hamaya wrote:yeah, i do this too. i tend to be a bit too scatterbrained to be really good at rooting blueberries, i have tried a lot of times and really had a very low percentage of them actually take. i can root out some things pretty well with cuttings, easy things anyway...but blueberries i find difficult. they take a long time too...and maybe part of the issue is you need really thick branches, which take forever to get thick enough in blueberries. you have to take the really choice parts for cuttings, and it takes a long time to get that much to take big cuttings like that...
Julie Reed wrote:Hey Tim, curious to know if that was successful for you. I’m slowly getting better at rooting cuttings using various methods, but haven’t tried pipe yet. I have had no success rooting blueberry cuttings (going to also try Steve’s method of separating suckers this summer) and I’d really like to increase my population without buying plants at $10+ each! I love the berries, they are super healthy, and I’d really like to get to a point where I can preserve at least 10 gallons of berries a year.
I put some cuttings in water yesterday with some rooting gel mixed in, which is my typical go to method, but thus far hasn’t ever worked with blueberries- even when they leaf out and get some rootlets they don’t survive the move to soil.
leila hamaya wrote:@ tim kivi - IMHO - the cutting you showed above is too small, too thin. it takes a while for the blueberry to grow thick, as thick as a pencil in diameter might be too much, but close to this.
anyway i feel your pain, i have probably taken at least 100 cuttings over many years ...and all told maybe got a dozen or so to take. i tend to get them too wet, or too dry, etc...part of that is definitely user error...but yeah i definitely consider them on the difficult side of the scale for re rooting...
Tim Kivi wrote:Today I cut the top off a blueberry branch and pulled off the leaves, then pushed it deep into a pot. Hopefully it works.
I also took two cuttings of the thickest branch to try strike roots. I dipped them in liquid roofing hormone. It felt a bit painful to cut the strongest branch because I have only one plant. I’d ultimately like to have about 20 blueberry plants planted in styrofoam boxes.
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