F Agricola wrote:Hello Daron,
Although I'm in the Permaculture planning stages at the moment, having previously only farmed in the traditional sense, I intend to loosely transition the 'Zones' along all three forest lines.
Zones 4 & 5 will be the 'Mature' forest type (indigenous habitat and wood production)
Zone 3 the 'Recovering' forest (fruit/nut trees, espaliers)
Zones 1 & 2 the 'Savannah' forest (annuals, perennials, vines, and aquatics)
This is due to climate and landscape conditions - basically to avoid being overrun with snakes within the vicinity of the house.
As indicated above in Zones 1 & 2, you may consider adding a 'Wetland' component to the types too, where aquatic plants and animals can be farmed?
Stacy Witscher wrote:I'm fortunate to have mature forest and oak savannah forest on my property already. The oak savannah (chaparral) area is mostly going to be for livestock, with the areas closest to the houses adding in more food forest components. I'm still working on ideas of what to incorporate into the mature forest areas. I know that I'm going to inoculate logs for mushroom cultivation and lay them in the shaded forest area.
Tyler Ludens wrote:My main Food Forest is the "Recovering Forest" type. It used to be primarily Live Oaks but they died from Oak Wilt, opening up the canopy. I'm filling the areas around the dead trees with fruit trees and food plants, as well as other native plants. I also have a small wetland area, the Frog Pond, where I'm growing a few edible water plants such as Watercress, Chinese Water Chestnut, and Duck Potato. I don't expect this to ever be a significant source of food because it's mostly for the frogs, dragonflies, etc.
Daron Williams wrote:
Thanks for sharing--I have heard about oak wilt but so far it does not seem to be an issue here. What type of fruit trees are you planting?
Josh Garbo wrote:...Black Locust (BL) does great where I have no trees yet and the soil is horrible. Hopefully I can create terraces on contour with BL and more productive trees, maintained with mowing (which should stop BL from root suckering and put N into the soil.