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Megan Wantoch wrote:Lots of tea bags are now being made out of stuff that doesn't compost, so there's another good reason to switch.
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Eric Thompson wrote:drink down to the leaves in the bottom of the cup...
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Josh T-Hansen wrote:
Eric Thompson wrote:drink down to the leaves in the bottom of the cup...
Good point, although I prefer the classiness of a bombilla.
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Thalassa Crusoe, To Everything There Is A Season
If I ever think I know everything, then I'm really lost and need to rearrange my entire thinking.
Lana Berticevich wrote, "How do they multiply? Ideally I think I need quite a few more than 10 tea bushes."
"Bend with the wind, take things as they come."
Thalassa Crusoe, To Everything There Is A Season
Janet Bailey wrote:
Camellias can be propagated from semi-hardwood cuttings in autumn - September, October, and November in USDA zone 8. The first picture shows some Camellia sasanqua cuttings from 2020 that were repotted into gallon pots this month.
Here's how I hope to go from 10 Camellia sinensus (Tea Camellias) to 40 this year...
I'm taking cuttings from the Camellia sinensis (tea camellias) I grew from seed in 2019. These were set out as young plants in 2020.
The cuttings are about 8" (20 cm) long and with all but one or two leaves leaves removed. The outside halves of the leaves are cut off to reduce the leaf surface area and the cuttings are soaked in cool water.
I stuck the cuttings to just below the leaves in perlite in a plastic nursery pot and put them in a shady area where they will be sheltered from wind.
I usually do not have to use rooting hormone, but using it might increase your success rate. I find that scraping some of the cambium around the cuttings' nodes works as well as rooting hormone to improve rooting success.
Our north Florida climate is humid year-round, so I do not have to raise the cuttings' humidity as long as I keep the plastic pots under a tree and among fallen leaves. Open air circulation keeps the cuttings healthy over the winter months and I do water the cuttings often. British Columbia's humid climate should work with the open-air method. In a dryer climate, humidity could be increased by keeping the cuttings in an unheated greenhouse or high tunnel, under shade, as long as the air circulation was good and the cuttings were watered frequently - once or twice daily - or kept moist with an intermittent misting system.
Thank you so very much for the detailed pictures and information!
If I ever think I know everything, then I'm really lost and need to rearrange my entire thinking.
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