Henry Jabel wrote:I say screw the conventional advice on this one, when it comes to rasberrries I tell all my customers 'if it's brown cut it down'. Eventually you will work out which ones are dead by looking at them but they tend to be old brown and woody the whole stem is dead so it all comes out. That way you dont accidently cut the summer fruiting ones and I seem to get a longer more spread out season with the autumn ones if they are left alone.
Skandi Rogers wrote:There is also a method with Autumn raspberries to get two crops, leave the old canes and they will fruit again in early summer, then cut them down and the new canes will fruit as normal in Autumn. You will need to cut them back if they like it as they get to congested and then you just get mould not raspberries.
those new shoots in your picture are not what people mean by new canes, new canes come from the ground rather than halfway up old canes.
Ben Knofe wrote:I think I figured what happened: I think the wind almost broke off the main cane a few weeks ago and then the plant started to create new shoots right under where it broke off. Now it is a real exciting thing to see what will happen. I would call this nature pruned by itself haha.
Inge Leonora-den Ouden wrote:
It's interesting what happened to you raspberry bush Ben! Now you can do the experiment.
What I learned about raspberries (I have the two different varieties too, here in the Netherlands):
the summer-raspberries, fruiting in June, you cut the branches that had fruits (only those ones!) directly after you harvested all fruits (so that will be in July);
the autumn-raspberries you prune by cutting everything 10 cm above ground in January / February.
Robert Ray wrote:I am just getting my arctic variety started that hugs the ground like thyme. The literature tells me to just run over it the fall with a lawnmower. Now I just have to get brave enough to do it without killing it.