Lean to

John C Daley wrote:Do you have photos?
What advise or information are you looking for?

Anne Miller wrote:What are you going to use the lean to's for?

The small one is for ladders and garden carts the big one for lumber that I no longer want in the garage it takes up too much space and hard too dig through when I need lumber

Would something like this work for you:

I took a quick look…I need both attached to existing buildings a wooden lean to enclosed shed and a garage

https://permies.com/t/159798/Suggestions-wood-shelter-solo-build

John C Daley wrote:Once we can see what you have, we can hekp.

thomas rubino wrote:Hi Susan;
Provided you get little to no snow load.
I would securely attach, at least a  2x8 to the wall of the house.
Making sure you are screwing thru the siding and into every stud underneath.
Metal hangers attach to the 2x8 and your rafters sit on them.
Your 4x4's are sitting on the cement blocks out from the wall.
A 2x8 is attached to them and the rafters are attached to the 2x8 with more metal brackets.

You will want 1" x  4 or whatever to run horizontally  across the rafters and they are what your metal goes on.

If you do get snow then you might have a problem .

John C Daley wrote:Using the image with the ladders stacked.
How far out is that lean to  planned to go?
I would bolt your roof joists to the existing roof joists poking out from the building.
Drill a hole through the new rafter, then hold it next to the existing rafter and drill either through both or just create a starter hole in the existing rafter.
Then finish hole and push a bolt, min 3/8inch diameter through both bits of timber. Use a washer with the nut and the washer against the timber.
Depending on timber size and roof load you may connect to every second rafter [ joist ].
The roof purlins that run between those roof joists need to be at least 3x11/2 inch at 3 ft spacing down the roof to the gutter
if you plan a metal roof.
Look locally at ways to fit and gutter system before you start building.
The wall you plan for that area, could consist of 4x4 posts set at the ends and perhaps one in the middle if the span is greater than 12 feet.
Across the top of those fasten a bean perhaps 6x2 inches.
I would dig the holes for the posts, install the posts and prop into position with 2 stays at right angles.
Then concrete them, not cement them. Fit the top beam across all posts.
Fit the roof rafters between that beam and the exposed roof rafters on the existing building. Attach rafter to beam with metal formed clips.
Then install the roof purlins.
The other building is similar, but you need to fit a beam as suggested earlier across the face of the wall.
I would use a 4 x 2 if its bolted at each stud rather than the 8x 2 suggested.
Check locally though.

John C Daley wrote:Using the image with the ladders stacked.
How far out is that lean to  planned to go?
I would bolt your roof joists to the existing roof joists poking out from the building.
Drill a hole through the new rafter, then hold it next to the existing rafter and drill either through both or just create a starter hole in the existing rafter.
Then finish hole and push a bolt, min 3/8inch diameter through both bits of timber. Use a washer with the nut and the washer against the timber.
Depending on timber size and roof load you may connect to every second rafter [ joist ].
The roof purlins that run between those roof joists need to be at least 3x11/2 inch at 3 ft spacing down the roof to the gutter
if you plan a metal roof.
Look locally at ways to fit and gutter system before you start building.
The wall you plan for that area, could consist of 4x4 posts set at the ends and perhaps one in the middle if the span is greater than 12 feet.
Across the top of those fasten a bean perhaps 6x2 inches.
I would dig the holes for the posts, install the posts and prop into position with 2 stays at right angles.
Then concrete them, not cement them. Fit the top beam across all posts.
Fit the roof rafters between that beam and the exposed roof rafters on the existing building. Attach rafter to beam with metal formed clips.
Then install the roof purlins.
The other building is similar, but you need to fit a beam as suggested earlier across the face of the wall.
I would use a 4 x 2 if its bolted at each stud rather than the 8x 2 suggested.
Check locally though.[/quote
I live in the county outside the city limits and don't think I need a permit ($) to do this but I better find out first I do know you can build a 12x12 building without one.
Cement and concrete are interchangeable to me although not technically the right term, the stuff I buy is used to hold up wooden posts in the ground.
I plan on going out about 9-10 feet out and do not want to go with the slope of the existing garage as the lean to will end up not tall enough.

Arthur Angaran wrote:Hi,  Personally I would extend the roof out, like a carport. Unless code enforcement won't let you. If you tie into the rafters with 2x4s I would go back at least 3 feet. That will give you enough support for heavy snow. Putting metal under the existing shingle roof could be a bit exacting but well worth it.

If you still want a small lean to then it is best to put 4x4s in all 4 corners and if long enough in the middle on both of the sides. Then put your 2x8 on the 4x4, making sure you notch the 4x4 to accommodate the 2x8. Add the rafter joists and perlins, then attach the metal. Make sure you flash really well along the side of the existing structure and the metal roof.