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Lean to

 
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I need to build two lean to's one on the back of my shed and another larger one on the side of my garage. I looked at some YouTube video's but couldn't really find what I need. Can you help?
 
pollinator
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Do you have photos?
What advise or information are you looking for?
 
master steward
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What are you going to use the lean to's for?

Would something like this work for you:

https://permies.com/t/159798/Suggestions-wood-shelter-solo-build
 
Susan Boyce
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John C Daley wrote:Do you have photos?
What advise or information are you looking for?



I am building it by myself. I am 63 and weigh 100lbs

I want it to be safe but not expensive I have 2x4s 2x6s and tin
I can post pic's later today
 
Susan Boyce
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Anne Miller wrote:What are you going to use the lean to's for?

The small one is for ladders and garden carts the big one for lumber that I no longer want in the garage it takes up too much space and hard too dig through when I need lumber

Would something like this work for you:

I took a quick look…I need both attached to existing buildings a wooden lean to enclosed shed and a garage

https://permies.com/t/159798/Suggestions-wood-shelter-solo-build

 
John C Daley
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Once we can see what you have, we can hekp.
 
Susan Boyce
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John C Daley wrote:Once we can see what you have, we can hekp.



Here are the pics

FE74CA6A-5BBB-4436-9BE0-8BC719A99943.jpeg
Garage
Garage
E137E654-E323-494A-9006-DD79099DC3F3.jpeg
Wood Shed
Wood Shed
 
Susan Boyce
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Forgot I also have 4x4s and cement pier posts that I want to use for the small one
 
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Hi Susan;
Provided you get little to no snow load.
I would securely attach, at least a  2x8 to the wall of the house.
Making sure you are screwing thru the siding and into every stud underneath.
Metal hangers attach to the 2x8 and your rafters sit on them.
Your 4x4's are sitting on the cement blocks out from the wall.
A 2x8 is attached to them and the rafters are attached to the 2x8 with more metal brackets.

You will want 1" x  4 or whatever to run horizontally  across the rafters and they are what your metal goes on.

If you do get snow then you might have a problem .
 
Susan Boyce
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi Susan;
Provided you get little to no snow load.
I would securely attach, at least a  2x8 to the wall of the house.
Making sure you are screwing thru the siding and into every stud underneath.
Metal hangers attach to the 2x8 and your rafters sit on them.
Your 4x4's are sitting on the cement blocks out from the wall.
A 2x8 is attached to them and the rafters are attached to the 2x8 with more metal brackets.

You will want 1" x  4 or whatever to run horizontally  across the rafters and they are what your metal goes on.

If you do get snow then you might have a problem .



Some years we have no snow others heavy enough to cause severe damage and power outages
I know for the larger one on the side of the garage will need cemented posts in the ground
 
John C Daley
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Using the image with the ladders stacked.
How far out is that lean to  planned to go?
I would bolt your roof joists to the existing roof joists poking out from the building.
Drill a hole through the new rafter, then hold it next to the existing rafter and drill either through both or just create a starter hole in the existing rafter.
Then finish hole and push a bolt, min 3/8inch diameter through both bits of timber. Use a washer with the nut and the washer against the timber.
Depending on timber size and roof load you may connect to every second rafter [ joist ].
The roof purlins that run between those roof joists need to be at least 3x11/2 inch at 3 ft spacing down the roof to the gutter
if you plan a metal roof.
Look locally at ways to fit and gutter system before you start building.
The wall you plan for that area, could consist of 4x4 posts set at the ends and perhaps one in the middle if the span is greater than 12 feet.
Across the top of those fasten a bean perhaps 6x2 inches.
I would dig the holes for the posts, install the posts and prop into position with 2 stays at right angles.
Then concrete them, not cement them. Fit the top beam across all posts.
Fit the roof rafters between that beam and the exposed roof rafters on the existing building. Attach rafter to beam with metal formed clips.
Then install the roof purlins.
The other building is similar, but you need to fit a beam as suggested earlier across the face of the wall.
I would use a 4 x 2 if its bolted at each stud rather than the 8x 2 suggested.
Check locally though.
 
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Hi,  Personally I would extend the roof out, like a carport. Unless code enforcement won't let you. If you tie into the rafters with 2x4s I would go back at least 3 feet. That will give you enough support for heavy snow. Putting metal under the existing shingle roof could be a bit exacting but well worth it.

If you still want a small lean to then it is best to put 4x4s in all 4 corners and if long enough in the middle on both of the sides. Then put your 2x8 on the 4x4, making sure you notch the 4x4 to accommodate the 2x8. Add the rafter joists and perlins, then attach the metal. Make sure you flash really well along the side of the existing structure and the metal roof.

 
Susan Boyce
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John C Daley wrote:Using the image with the ladders stacked.
How far out is that lean to  planned to go?
I would bolt your roof joists to the existing roof joists poking out from the building.
Drill a hole through the new rafter, then hold it next to the existing rafter and drill either through both or just create a starter hole in the existing rafter.
Then finish hole and push a bolt, min 3/8inch diameter through both bits of timber. Use a washer with the nut and the washer against the timber.
Depending on timber size and roof load you may connect to every second rafter [ joist ].
The roof purlins that run between those roof joists need to be at least 3x11/2 inch at 3 ft spacing down the roof to the gutter
if you plan a metal roof.
Look locally at ways to fit and gutter system before you start building.
The wall you plan for that area, could consist of 4x4 posts set at the ends and perhaps one in the middle if the span is greater than 12 feet.
Across the top of those fasten a bean perhaps 6x2 inches.
I would dig the holes for the posts, install the posts and prop into position with 2 stays at right angles.
Then concrete them, not cement them. Fit the top beam across all posts.
Fit the roof rafters between that beam and the exposed roof rafters on the existing building. Attach rafter to beam with metal formed clips.
Then install the roof purlins.
The other building is similar, but you need to fit a beam as suggested earlier across the face of the wall.
I would use a 4 x 2 if its bolted at each stud rather than the 8x 2 suggested.
Check locally though.



I live in the county outside the city limits and don't think I need a permit ($) to do this but I better find out first I do know you can build a 12x12 building without one.
Cement and concrete are interchangeable to me although not technically the right term, the stuff I buy is used to hold up wooden posts in the ground.
I plan on going out about 9-10 feet out and do not want to go with the slope of the existing garage as the lean to will end up not tall enough.
 
Susan Boyce
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John C Daley wrote:Using the image with the ladders stacked.
How far out is that lean to  planned to go?
I would bolt your roof joists to the existing roof joists poking out from the building.
Drill a hole through the new rafter, then hold it next to the existing rafter and drill either through both or just create a starter hole in the existing rafter.
Then finish hole and push a bolt, min 3/8inch diameter through both bits of timber. Use a washer with the nut and the washer against the timber.
Depending on timber size and roof load you may connect to every second rafter [ joist ].
The roof purlins that run between those roof joists need to be at least 3x11/2 inch at 3 ft spacing down the roof to the gutter
if you plan a metal roof.
Look locally at ways to fit and gutter system before you start building.
The wall you plan for that area, could consist of 4x4 posts set at the ends and perhaps one in the middle if the span is greater than 12 feet.
Across the top of those fasten a bean perhaps 6x2 inches.
I would dig the holes for the posts, install the posts and prop into position with 2 stays at right angles.
Then concrete them, not cement them. Fit the top beam across all posts.
Fit the roof rafters between that beam and the exposed roof rafters on the existing building. Attach rafter to beam with metal formed clips.
Then install the roof purlins.
The other building is similar, but you need to fit a beam as suggested earlier across the face of the wall.
I would use a 4 x 2 if its bolted at each stud rather than the 8x 2 suggested.
Check locally though.[/quote
I live in the county outside the city limits and don't think I need a permit ($) to do this but I better find out first I do know you can build a 12x12 building without one.
Cement and concrete are interchangeable to me although not technically the right term, the stuff I buy is used to hold up wooden posts in the ground.
I plan on going out about 9-10 feet out and do not want to go with the slope of the existing garage as the lean to will end up not tall enough.

 
Susan Boyce
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I don't know why my reply connected to your post.



I live in the county outside the city limits and don't think I need a permit ($) to do this but I better find out first I do know you can build a 12x12 building without one.
Cement and concrete are interchangeable to me although not technically the right term, the stuff I buy is used to hold up wooden posts in the ground.
I plan on going out about 9-10 feet out and do not want to go with the slope of the existing garage as the lean to will end up not tall enough.
 
Susan Boyce
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Arthur Angaran wrote:Hi,  Personally I would extend the roof out, like a carport. Unless code enforcement won't let you. If you tie into the rafters with 2x4s I would go back at least 3 feet. That will give you enough support for heavy snow. Putting metal under the existing shingle roof could be a bit exacting but well worth it.

If you still want a small lean to then it is best to put 4x4s in all 4 corners and if long enough in the middle on both of the sides. Then put your 2x8 on the 4x4, making sure you notch the 4x4 to accommodate the 2x8. Add the rafter joists and perlins, then attach the metal. Make sure you flash really well along the side of the existing structure and the metal roof.





I can't do that since the pitch of the roof would make the lean to/carport to short
 
Susan Boyce
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The small one will go out about 3-4 feet
 
John C Daley
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If you bolt to the rafters, you can change the pitch.
But I think you are only going 4 feet max on that side so all timbers could be 4 x2 I believe.
 
Susan Boyce
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I'll start building on the small one when it's not so smokey here, we still have a bunch of fires going on.
 
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The 4' extension comes off the woodshed and the 10' extension comes off the garage, correct?

I agree that the 4' extension can be done with 2x4 rafters attached to the existing rafter tails, changing the pitch slightly if necessary, and supporting the outer ends with a continuous 2x6 or 2x8 depending on the distance between posts. How wide in total will this roof be? What is the spacing between woodshed rafters? It looks like more than 2' from the photo. If so, I would use 2x4 purlins to hold the metal roofing rather than 1x4.

The 10' extension from the garage will need the header bolted to the sidewall as high as you can while allowing clearance for the metal roofing to extend underneath the existing eave, for simplicity of eliminating drips. The sizes and quantities of lumber you have on hand will influence the best way to frame this roof. 2x4 rafters at 16" on centers would be strong enough for an 8' span of a non-critical open shed; 2x6 at 16" or 24" centers would be strong enough for any reasonable load forever. I would run the 2x8 outer support beam about 2' in from the edge of the roof, cantilevering the rafters 2'. This greatly improves the load capacity of the rafters over making them span 10'. Again, the beam size and post spacing are interdependent. How wide will the total roof be? How many posts are you expecting to use here?

 
Susan Boyce
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Yes correct the small shed is 12ft long the garage lean to will be 18ft long and plan on using 4 4x4s on the 9-10 ft width side

It is super smokey today can't even see the hills behind my house so going outside is too toxic and I feel so bad for the chickens so working on these is on hold
 
John C Daley
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How much longer will the fire season stay?
 
Susan Boyce
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I have no idea I thought by now they would all be out but sadly that's not true.
We have been going through a drought for many years now...
 
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