How to make it predator proof : Use barbed wire/pricker and thorn branches on edges to prevent animal from digging in. I plan on moving this often so a buried fence isn't really an option. Also a stock panel flooring is hard on the chicken's feet. Fool proof, stands the test of time and only cost me dog food....his house is next to the coop and he will work for food...
How to make it attractive : Instead of a tarp use duck cloth. Use clear plastic on the end walls to let in light. This will be close to the house most of the time and needs to look decent. I'm using the clear plastic right now and it does let in light. Here's a pic or two of my hoop coop before applying the plastic end caps:
Will stock panelling bend under the weight of a waterer? No..it won't. Hang food and water on the “crease” which is where the stock panels overlap each other by 1 foot. If your arch is right, it will bear wt just fine and won't need the overlap for strength...I can hang a whole 5 gal. bucket of wet, fermented feed off of mine without worrying about where to place the rope.
Jay Green wrote:
Cj Verde wrote:
Jay Green wrote:
Yes. What are your dimensions?
Do you move yours? If so, by yourself?
Is it just cattle panels & plastic?
I bought a few panels to make one of these a few weeks ago but then stole them to make a new feeder for my cows and sheep so I'm back to the planning stage.
Josef Theisen wrote:Thanks Jay.
I have recently built a second hoop coop, and I just published a blog post with detailed instructions on how I built it.
The post can be viewed here http://wholeviewfarm.blogspot.com/2013/07/building-hoop-coop-how-to-construct.html
I know there is a world of options in building one of these, but the post should instruct a beginner well enough to build one successfully. Let me know what you think.
Jay Green wrote:cattle panels are right up there with duct tape and zip ties for me~truly a material that every homesteader needs to keep on hand.