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Pre-mending or strengthening clothes in advance to make them last longer?

 
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I was wondering if anyone had any tips of things that can be done in advance to stop clothes falling apart so quickly?

One tip I read recently was that when the elbows of a pullover or cardigan are starting to look thin, unpick the seams and detach the sleeves, and then reattach each one on the opposite arm, so that the thin bit is now on the other side of the elbow. This would only work on some styles of clothing, but is one good idea.

For wool leggings that get thin at the knees, would lightly darning them before they get thin make them last longer?

Could under the arms of clothing and other places where it tends to get holes or get thin be pre-darned in a similar way?
 
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If you're starting at the cut fabric and sew stage, I put patches on the inside as the first step before sew anything else. When my boys were young, I'd use 3 layers on the right knee, and two layers on the left knee. We were able to get a pair of pants to last 2 boys long that way. So for the legging example you mention, what about knitting an oval that fits on either the inside or outside of the knee?

I think the extra layers actually helped the fabric last longer - maybe it was the padding effect?

Part of the equation is whether you just need the clothing to last, or if you need it to look respectable enough to go off property in it? My son put his elbow through a shirt he loved to wear to work. I had nothing that truly matched, so I used complimentary fabric to make nice oval patches for both arms. The result looked planned and he's still wearing the shirt. I totally believe in the approach that if you can't make it "invisible", then make it a fashion statement!
 
Kate Downham
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Great ideas Jay, thank you!

Do you have any tips for sewing knee patches that last? The ones I have sewn have all been covering up holes, and they seem to bunch up weirdly and uncomfortably, and/or get loose at the seams soon after. I am getting reasonably good at darning knitted wool clothing, but I would like to improve my skills mending cotton clothing so any advice would be appreciated.
 
pollinator
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It seems like (haha) whenever I put a patch on a knee it will rip out just along the edge, then another patch for that and sew on, and sew on.
So when a knee goes out, I use the back of pant legs to make one patch that covers the front of the leg from below the knee up to a couple inches below the pocket.
Some carhart jeans are born that way.
When done covering the leg I run more stitches up and down the center area of the patch,
so my foot doesn't run into the hole when putting them on.
 
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At one time in fashion history elbow patches were common on shirts, sweaters, and jackets.

Occasionally I still see them.

I cover frayed collars with cotton ribbon to cover the fray and make them last longer.  The sam thing could be done for new clothes.
 
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I made myself several pairs of work pants (out of a polyester the ticks can't climb) that I put reinforcing everyplace I usually rip things.

I don't do knee only patches, as I tend to rip my pants more on the thighs, where I wipe my hands, and tug up on the leg to give me more thigh space when I sit down. I took these patches way up, so that whole area was covered. The patching inside the light pants is a medium weight canvas, and I haven't damaged it yet.


 
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I carry a lot of stuff in my pockets and have pocket blow out. I pullout the pocket and use one of the iron on patches to reinforce the pocket.
 
Jay Angler
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Notice that Pearl Sutton also "reinforced" the area of the butt where you either sit, or in my case, the heals of my boots tend to hit if I'd doing a lot of kneeling. This is definitely something I've done on work pants!

Craig Howard wrote:

So when a knee goes out, I use the back of pant legs to make one patch that covers the front of the leg from below the knee up to a couple inches below the pocket.

I do the same - I even ask non-farm people to save their dead jeans specifically to harvest that fabric for this purpose. Sewing from seam-line to seam-line actually makes it look neater in my opinion than a smaller patch does. If you want it to look "pretty" some fancy embroidery serves to join the inside and outside fabric together as well as making  a fashion statement - if you can't hide it, flaunt it!

Robert Ray wrote:

I carry a lot of stuff in my pockets and have pocket blow out.  

If it's just the bottom seam, again, if I'm building from scratch I often do a double seam for at least the bottom 1/3 of the pocket. I *really* like the pockets that are made with a double layer of fabric for the bottom third, as people who carry around keys and tools, may blow the pocket higher up.

I'm not personally a fan of iron on patching - it either peals off on me, or feels stiff. However, same as with the knees, I'm totally up for a complete re-line. Hubby had some lined jeans which I just couldn't figure out a good way to mend a hole in the pocket - his keys kept ending up at the bottom of his pant leg between the lining and the outer layer! These were strictly farm pants, so I cut out a whole section of front pocket from a worn out pair of pants, and inset the whole thing into the old pocket. It didn't look pretty, but it got the job done!
 
Pearl Sutton
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Robert Ray wrote:I carry a lot of stuff in my pockets and have pocket blow out. I pullout the pocket and use one of the iron on patches to reinforce the pocket.



I carry a lot of stuff in my pockets too, so I put a lot of pockets on my pants. If I buy them (second hand) I add pockets, if I make them I put a bunch. Those pink pants above have 2 hand pockets, and 4 thigh pockets. I forgot to put back pockets on them and it drives me nuts, and I need to get some on them!
 
pollinator
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I love my silk blouses, but sweat breaks down the fibers and I find myself needing to mend the underarms when the rest of the garment is just fine. I had actually just been thinking last week that I should start to preemptively sew patches on the inside to avoid the fabric breakdown.
 
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Mk Neal wrote:I love my silk blouses, but sweat breaks down the fibers and I find myself needing to mend the underarms when the rest of the garment is just fine. I had actually just been thinking last week that I should start to preemptively sew patches on the inside to avoid the fabric breakdown.



You used to be able to buy "dress shields" or "underarm guards" or "perspiration guards" at fabric shops. Here's a WikiHow about how to make them, including one method for recycling old socks:
https://www.wikihow.com/Make-Underarm-Guards
 
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Since few people mentioned pockets I thought I'd share few  DIY ideas for detachable pockets.
I don't like purses but sometimes I could use extra pocket or two.
Those can be made from ready made garments pockets, attached as many as one likes on a belt. Those can be pretty, funky,  with buttons, snap on, zippers, sized to ones liking etc. Kind of like a removable tool belt.

Advantage to these is that when squatting, kneeling, bending, nothing "digs in" into a body, as those are loose.
Detachable-pockets.JPG
Detachable pockets on a belt
Detachable-pocket-1.JPG
Old pocket sewn onto new pants
Detachable-pocket-2.JPG
A detachable pocket on a belt with a button closure
Detachable-pocket-3.JPG
A detachable pocket decorated with lace, buttons and scissor charms
 
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I just did this last week to a pair of linen pants I love. I tend to wear through the edges of hems on my pants- even though they are the correct length- because they sit differently on me depending on the day or what I'm doing, and often enough they must be dragging. So, I twice-turn the hems and sew them in place, effectively making them doubled and very strong.

The other possibility when I have made my own, or if I happen to have an appropriate fabric, is to add a cuff to the bottom by adding it like blanket-binding edging to the raw edge of the pant legs. I zigzag the raw edge to stop fraying and to give it strength to hold the doubled fabric cuff. This way, when it inevitably does wear through, I can replace it and the pants are as good as new. If the new cuff didn't sit flat (I use linen and it always does), then I would just double-stitch it top and bottom of cuff.

I also use a lot of drawstrings at the waist, and these wear through the top of the waist casing if allowed to thread through without reinforcing it. I do this by adding a running stitch along the top of the waist casing so that the drawstring is pushing against that and not the natural fold of the fabric. You could make a waist casing the same as the blanket-binding leg-cuff too, although I have never needed to do this.

These are all quick-fixes/reinforcements and worth it to me to keep a good pair of pants in service. The linen pants I fixed this way recently are about 10 years old and have a beautiful drape and look great still! I wore them all the time in the first few years I had them, being my only drawstrings at the time, and loving the flexibility of that throughout my day with small children and homesteading chores.
 
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I used to reinforce, mend, and patch pants.  As previously mentioned, they just tend to blow out somewhere else.  The local thrift store has pants for $3-4.  Hardly worth the time and effort when I can get them for that.
 
pollinator
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Put me in the "buy clothes cheap, don't waste your time mending them" category (it's crazy how much of our local thrift store's inventory is brand new clothes!), though I will sew buttons back on. When I get around to it. And when a clothing item has reached the end of its lifecycle, we always try to turn it into something else useful like a cleaning rag, especially if it's 100% cotton.

I used to sew patches on jeans and darn old socks when I was younger and poorer and had a lot of free time.

If I was a real sewing machine wizard my outlook might be different, but my sewing skills are limited to brute force with needle and thread and that's about it. This could change in the future...
 
Jay Angler
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Gray Henon wrote:I used to reinforce, mend, and patch pants.  As previously mentioned, they just tend to blow out somewhere else.  The local thrift store has pants for $3-4.  Hardly worth the time and effort when I can get them for that.

The downside of "cheap" - the costs are hidden.

Before Hubby retired, he'd buy "work pants" and when they didn't look good enough for work, we'd down-grade them for "grubby" pants. However, they all looked the same, so I started adding knee patches to the "grubby" ones to make it easier to sort. The extra layer in the knees made it just enough comfier for crawling under the car etc, that he started requesting that feature. However, it also meant they lasted much longer.

I admit that if I am going to mend something, the factors in my mind are:
1. what's the condition of the rest of the garment?
2. do I fix the identified problem, and then reinforce the other weak points?
3. do I demand it go to rags?

That said, I've got a sewing machine and know how to use it. I've also upped my game in the hand-sewing department. I can put on some music and hand stitch on a patch when I'm tired and really don't feel like doing something active.
 
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In addition to pre patching- reinforcing clothes. There were undergarments and over garments made to take the wear and tear so clothes lasted longer.
From under arm pads to short pants ( loose longer undergarments) under the pants.
Sewn onto some pants would be cuffs of contasting more durable fabric.
On shirts cuffs , collars, anywhere buttons were and pockets were reinforced and or made of contasting or coordinating thicker fabric.
Overgarments like aprons ( from cotton to leather depending the chore.)
Kneepads, fire resistant fabrics in areas you might get to hot hands and croches were the most covered ( cooking, metal work)
And even chemical deterants like waterproofing heavy cotton ( ducting).
Modern fabrics and clothes and even modern-day fabrics aren't made even simular at least right off the shelf at walmart or joanns.
 
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On my duluth trading pants they have a belt loop that is velcro and it allows me to hook nail bags or electric screw gun holster onto my pants I recover them and use them on other pants, along with the extra pockets for later use.
 
Ela La Salle
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I would like to add that in my town, thrift store has a full rack of free clothing (among other things like books, working small appliances and more). So sometimes it is cheaper to pick through it than to buy spool of thread/s which are expensive,  and for me, the only option would be to drive 2 hours one way, ether way to buy thread. Not that I need it but for some people buying or getting clothing  for cheap might be a better option.
Besides, large sizes are great to use as a fabric for sewing other things (produce bags, bags and the sky's the limit)
 
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If you're sewing your own garments, certain designs can be included to reduce wear and tear extend the lifespan of the clothes.

Articulated knees
Bellows pockets
Underarm shields
Elbow patches/ shaped sleeves
Stronger seams
Reinforcement in key area

Or when you purchase RTWs, check if they have some of those details.
 
pollinator
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Thought this might be an appropriate thread for this addition.  

I like the garment shown below.... essentially a pile-lined zippered and hooded sweatshirt with a heavy flannel button shirt sewn over the sweatshirt.  The zippers are quite durable as has been the pile lining and the sweatshirt itself.  The flannel outer shirt is the problem.  In the two of these shirts that I've had, the flannel just starts to fall apart.  Not just the pockets, but any small tear begins to expand and pretty soon the whole appearance of the garment and function of the pockets is tattered and annoying. If anyone has experience with similar types of garments, can the outer shirt be cut away and replaced with a new flannel or chamois outer shirt?  I would try to seek out a more durable outer shirt if this can be done. Thanks for suggestions....

Edited to add, my wife says I'm not winning any fashion contests with these adornments..... :-)
LinedHoodedWorkshirt.JPG
[Thumbnail for LinedHoodedWorkshirt.JPG]
 
Jay Angler
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John Weiland wrote:  In the two of these shirts that I've had, the flannel just starts to fall apart.  Not just the pockets, but any small tear begins to expand and pretty soon the whole appearance of the garment and function of the pockets is tattered and annoying.

A picture would be helpful. I haven't owned such a garment, but I'm wondering what it would look like if you just removed all the flannel carefully. If you then felt the need for outer pockets, I'd find some fabric to salvage that went with the remaining hoodie, and sew patch pockets on.
 
John Weiland
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Thanks for the response, Jay!  As it turns out upon closer inspection, this is not a pile-lined sweatshirt hoodie inside of a flannel exterior. Rather it was compiled to *look* like one.  In other words, the hood and edge material that holds the zipper is of the same fabric as a sweatshirt, but this is fuzed to a pile-lined flannel shirt in a way that makes it look like two separate garments.  So I think I will just sew on new pockets as to mentioned, which will both replace the torn pockets and cover a lot of the torn fabric on the front, and then use it til it's no longer functional.  Thanks again for the suggestions!
 
Ela La Salle
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John Weiland wrote:

This is somewhat different, but here it comes;
I would replace the hoodie with one size bigger men's long sleeve shit, what ever the fabric might be , and tack it (either by using sewing machine or by hand)  over the existing hoodie's seams. However, If the existing fabric is coming off at the seams, I would cut THOSE pieces off , including the breast pockets to eliminate bulk, close to original seams (those attached and sewn by manufacturer).
I am speaking for myself here....Unless I /we, were invited to black tie event, I/ HE would not wear it but.....around the house, for doing yard work...I don't care LOL
P.S. I did similar replacement for my "ugly half" just this way because he was (is) attached to "his twin hoodie" but don't have pictures.



 
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