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Using Chatgpt to design a garden.

 
Joshua Bertram
Posts: 672
Location: St. George, UT. Zone 8a Dry/arid. 8" of rain in a good year.
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This is just a random prompt I put into the website to see how detailed of a layout it would give me for a square foot raised bed garden.
I'm not saying it did a good job, but it did a better job than I could have.
I think breaking each bed down into it's own series of questions would be even better.
This is the website for the a.i.  https://chat.openai.com/chat

Here is what I typed into the a.i.

"Design a square foot vegetable and flower  garden for me in zone 8a.  Tell me what plants to start indoors and when to plant them outdoors.  I'd like it to be 100% organic.  I'd like to plant flowers and herbs that are beneficial to the nearby vegetables.  I'd like to have a few cherry tomato plants, a couple of medium sized tomato plants, I'd like to have at least fifty pepper plants of several different varieties, I'd like to have several leafy greens to feed myself and also my chickens and rabbits.  I have seven raised beds that are 8 feet long by 4 feet wide.  Please provide me a detailed plan as to how to plant out each garden bed."

Here's what it spit out in about a minute.

"Great! It's exciting to design a vegetable and flower garden for you in zone 8a.

Before we start, here are some general tips for organic gardening:

Start with high-quality soil that is rich in organic matter.
Use compost and organic fertilizers to nourish your plants.
Rotate crops to prevent soil-borne diseases.
Use natural pest control methods such as companion planting and handpicking pests.
Mulch your garden to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.
For your 7 raised beds, we will divide them up according to the plants you wish to grow. We will start by designing a layout plan.

Layout Plan:
Bed 1: Herbs and flowers
Bed 2: Cherry tomatoes and lettuce
Bed 3: Peppers and spinach
Bed 4: Medium sized tomatoes and herbs
Bed 5: Peppers and kale
Bed 6: Leafy greens and onions
Bed 7: Peppers and herbs

Now, let's dive into the details of each bed.

Bed 1: Herbs and Flowers
In this bed, we will plant herbs and flowers that are beneficial to the nearby vegetables. Some good options for this bed include:

Basil
Chives
Dill
Marigolds
Nasturtiums
Oregano
Thyme
Start indoors: None
Plant outdoors: Early spring, once the soil has warmed up and there is no danger of frost.

Bed 2: Cherry Tomatoes and Lettuce
Cherry tomatoes are great for snacking, and lettuce is a good companion plant because it helps to shade the soil and keep it cool. In this bed, we will plant:

Cherry tomatoes (2-3 plants)
Leaf lettuce
Start indoors: Cherry tomatoes - 6-8 weeks before last frost date.
Plant outdoors: Late spring, once the danger of frost has passed.

Bed 3: Peppers and Spinach
Peppers come in many varieties, and they are great for adding a little heat to your meals. Spinach is a cool-season crop that will thrive in the early spring and fall. In this bed, we will plant:

10-12 pepper plants of different varieties
Spinach
Start indoors: Peppers - 8-10 weeks before last frost date.
Plant outdoors: Late spring, once the danger of frost has passed.

Bed 4: Medium Sized Tomatoes and Herbs
In this bed, we will plant medium-sized tomato plants and some herbs that will help to repel pests and attract beneficial insects. Some good options for this bed include:

Medium-sized tomato plants (2-3 plants)
Cilantro
Rosemary
Sage
Start indoors: Medium-sized tomato plants - 6-8 weeks before last frost date.
Plant outdoors: Late spring, once the danger of frost has passed.

Bed 5: Peppers and Kale
Kale is a hardy vegetable that can withstand some frost, and it is packed with nutrients. In this bed, we will plant:

10-12 pepper plants of different varieties
Kale
Start indoors: Peppers - 8-10 weeks before last frost date.
Plant outdoors: Late spring, once the danger of frost has passed.

Bed 6: Leafy Greens and Onions
In this bed, we will plant leafy greens that can be fed to your chickens and rabbits, as well as some onions that will help to repel pests. Some good options for this bed include:

Arugula
Bok choy
Green onions
Lettuce
Mustard greens
Swiss chard
Start indoors: None
Plant outdoors"

So then I asked it for more specific details.

"Could you give detailed spacing for each bed, and plant varieties that would do well in my zone?"

and here is its answer.

"Bed 1: Herbs and Flowers

Basil: 9-12 inches apart
Chives: 6-8 inches apart
Dill: 6-12 inches apart
Marigolds: 6-8 inches apart
Nasturtiums: 8-10 inches apart
Oregano: 12-18 inches apart
Thyme: 12-18 inches apart
Plant Varieties:

Basil: Genovese, Thai, Lemon, or Purple
Chives: Common or Garlic
Dill: Bouquet, Mammoth, or Fernleaf
Marigolds: French or African
Nasturtiums: Alaska, Empress of India, or Whirlybird
Oregano: Greek or Italian
Thyme: Common, English, or Lemon
Bed 2: Cherry Tomatoes and Lettuce

Cherry tomatoes: 24-36 inches apart
Lettuce: 8-12 inches apart
Plant Varieties:

Cherry tomatoes: Sweet Million, Sungold, or Super Sweet 100
Lettuce: Red Sails, Buttercrunch, or Black Seeded Simpson
Bed 3: Peppers and Spinach

Peppers: 18-24 inches apart
Spinach: 3-4 inches apart
Plant Varieties:

Peppers: Jalapeno, Bell, Cayenne, or Banana
Spinach: Bloomsdale, Space, or Tyee
Bed 4: Medium Sized Tomatoes and Herbs

Medium-sized tomato plants: 24-36 inches apart
Cilantro: 6-8 inches apart
Rosemary: 24-36 inches apart
Sage: 18-24 inches apart
Plant Varieties:

Medium-sized tomato plants: Celebrity, Early Girl, or Roma
Cilantro: Santo or Slow Bolt
Rosemary: Arp, Tuscan Blue, or Salem
Sage: Common or Berggarten
Bed 5: Peppers and Kale

Peppers: 18-24 inches apart
Kale: 12-18 inches apart
Plant Varieties:

Peppers: Anaheim, Poblano, or Serrano
Kale: Red Russian, Lacinato, or Winterbor
Bed 6: Leafy Greens and Onions

Arugula: 4-6 inches apart
Bok choy: 8-10 inches apart
Green onions: 2-4 inches apart
Lettuce: 8-12 inches apart
Mustard greens: 6-12 inches apart
Swiss chard: 8-12 inches apart
Plant Varieties:

Arugula: Astro or Wild
Bok choy: Toy Choi or Prize Choi
Green onions: White Lisbon or Red Baron
Lettuce: Red Sails, Buttercrunch, or Black Seeded Simpson
Mustard greens: Southern Giant or Green Wave
Swiss chard: Bright Lights or Fordhook Giant
Bed 7: Peppers and Herbs

Peppers: 18-24 inches apart
Herbs: 12-18 inches apart
Plant Varieties:

Peppers: Habanero, Thai Hot, or Fresno
Herbs: Parsley, Cilantro, or Chives
I hope this detailed plan helps you create a successful organic vegetable and flower garden in zone 8a!"

 
Joshua Bertram
Posts: 672
Location: St. George, UT. Zone 8a Dry/arid. 8" of rain in a good year.
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I figured I'd ask it something more specific.

Oh, I forgot to mention I live in the desert southwest where temperatures in June -August are about 105+f every afternoon with a lot of wind and humidity often in the low teens.  Could you update the plant species for these conditions for each bed?

Sure thing, here are updated plant varieties that are better suited for the hot, dry conditions of the desert southwest:

Bed 1: Herbs and Flowers

Basil: Sweet Dani or Mrs. Burns
Chives: Garlic
Dill: Fernleaf
Marigolds: French or Signet
Nasturtiums: Jewel or Empress of India
Oregano: Greek or Italian
Thyme: Common or Creeping
Bed 2: Cherry Tomatoes and Lettuce

Cherry tomatoes: Sweet 100 or Sun Sugar
Lettuce: Heatwave or Jericho
Bed 3: Peppers and Spinach

Peppers: Anaheim or Poblano
Spinach: Bloomsdale or Red Kitten
Bed 4: Medium Sized Tomatoes and Herbs

Medium-sized tomato plants: Celebrity or Roma
Cilantro: Santo or Calypso
Rosemary: Arp or Tuscan Blue
Sage: Berggarten or Pineapple
Bed 5: Peppers and Kale

Peppers: Anaheim or Poblano
Kale: Red Russian or Tuscan
Bed 6: Leafy Greens and Onions

Arugula: Wild or Astro
Bok choy: Joi Choi or Baby Choi
Green onions: Red Baron or White Lisbon
Lettuce: Summer Bibb or Heatwave
Mustard greens: Southern Giant or Green Wave
Swiss chard: Bright Lights or Fordhook Giant
Bed 7: Peppers and Herbs

Peppers: Thai or Fresno
Herbs: Cilantro or Chives
In addition to the plant varieties, it's important to make sure that your garden beds have adequate mulch and are watered frequently (but not overwatered) during the hot, dry months. Good luck with your garden!
 
Doug McGregor
Posts: 16
Location: Canada
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This is great, I would also ask chatGPT to provide a calendar for starting everything given your last frost date.  
 
Maarten Smet
Posts: 53
Location: Kentucky - Zone6
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ChatGPT loves peppers, apparently. Tell it you are allergic to peppers and see what it does ;)
 
Joshua Bertram
Posts: 672
Location: St. George, UT. Zone 8a Dry/arid. 8" of rain in a good year.
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Hey Doug and Marten, yeah it's pretty neat that it can just churn the information out.  It's certainly not professional advice, and it probably isn't even good, but it's good enough to get an idea going and to elaborate off of.  

I originally said that I wanted at least 50 pepper plants, so it is I that is the pepper addict, lol.

So, I went back to that question about the layout of the beds (it's cool that it keeps your prior conversations tabbed off to the side) and asked it to give me specific planting dates and that I forgot I was allergic to peppers and so to substitute them with something else.
I personally plant way earlier than it recommends.  I've successfully planted tomatoes in the middle of march here.  I feel the first week of April is perfect



ME:  going back to the original question abut the design for the garden beds in the desert southwest, my last frost date is march 25th.  Could you please provide me a detailed calendar as to when to plant everything?  Oh yeah, and also I just found out I'm allergic to peppers, could you substitute other vegetables and such to replace those?


CHAT GPT:  Based on your last frost date of March 25th, here's a planting calendar for the raised beds you described, with peppers replaced with other vegetables:

Bed 1:

March 25th: Direct sow spinach seeds
April 1st: Direct sow lettuce seeds
April 15th: Transplant broccoli seedlings
May 1st: Direct sow bush bean seeds
June 1st: Direct sow zucchini seeds
July 1st: Direct sow winter squash seeds
August 1st: Direct sow fall greens (kale, chard, collards) seeds
Bed 2:

March 25th: Direct sow radish seeds
April 1st: Direct sow carrot seeds
April 15th: Direct sow beet seeds
May 1st: Direct sow cucumber seeds
June 1st: Transplant tomato seedlings
July 1st: Direct sow okra seeds
August 1st: Direct sow fall greens (kale, chard, collards) seeds
Bed 3:

March 25th: Direct sow lettuce seeds
April 1st: Direct sow arugula seeds
April 15th: Transplant cabbage seedlings
May 1st: Direct sow snap pea seeds
June 1st: Transplant eggplant seedlings
July 1st: Direct sow bush bean seeds
August 1st: Direct sow fall greens (kale, chard, collards) seeds
Bed 4:

March 25th: Direct sow radish seeds
April 1st: Direct sow carrot seeds
April 15th: Direct sow turnip seeds
May 1st: Direct sow pole bean seeds
June 1st: Transplant tomato seedlings
July 1st: Direct sow summer squash seeds
August 1st: Direct sow fall greens (kale, chard, collards) seeds
Bed 5:

March 25th: Direct sow lettuce seeds
April 1st: Direct sow mesclun mix seeds
April 15th: Transplant cauliflower seedlings
May 1st: Direct sow Swiss chard seeds
June 1st: Transplant pepper seedlings
July 1st: Direct sow carrot seeds
August 1st: Direct sow fall greens (kale, chard, collards) seeds
Bed 6:

March 25th: Direct sow radish seeds
April 1st: Direct sow carrot seeds
April 15th: Direct sow fennel seeds
May 1st: Direct sow cucumber seeds
June 1st: Transplant tomato seedlings
July 1st: Direct sow summer squash seeds
August 1st: Direct sow fall greens (kale, chard, collards) seeds
Bed 7:

March 25th: Direct sow lettuce seeds
April 1st: Direct sow mustard greens seeds
April 15th: Transplant Brussels sprouts seedlings
May 1st: Direct sow bush bean seeds
June 1st: Transplant pepper seedlings
July 1st: Direct sow okra seeds
August 1st: Direct sow fall greens (kale, chard, collards) seeds
Note that this is just a general guide, and you should adjust the planting dates based on your local climate and weather conditions. It's also important to keep in mind that the desert southwest has a very long, hot growing season, so you may need to use shade cloth




 
Joshua Bertram
Posts: 672
Location: St. George, UT. Zone 8a Dry/arid. 8" of rain in a good year.
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I was looking it over and I thought to myself I'd like it more in a day to day format so I asked it to do that.


ME:  Thanks, could you organize that calendar to read in a list going day by day


CHATGPT:  Sure, here's a day-by-day list of when to plant your vegetables and flowers in your garden beds:

March:

10th-14th: Start tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and tomatillos indoors.
15th: Direct sow peas, spinach, and radishes.
20th: Direct sow carrots, beets, and chard.
April:

1st: Direct sow arugula, lettuce, and other salad greens.
5th-10th: Transplant tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, and tomatillos into garden beds.
15th: Direct sow green beans, summer squash, and zucchini.
20th: Transplant broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage.
25th: Direct sow sunflowers and cosmos.
May:

1st: Transplant cucumbers and watermelon.
5th: Direct sow sweet corn.
10th: Transplant herbs like basil, cilantro, and dill.
15th: Direct sow okra and melons.
20th: Transplant pumpkins.
25th: Direct sow winter squash.
June:

1st-5th: Transplant peppers.
10th: Direct sow beans and cowpeas.
15th: Direct sow gourds.
20th: Transplant any remaining seedlings, including flowers.
25th: Direct sow any remaining seeds.
July:

1st-15th: Harvest lettuce, spinach, and other cool season greens.
20th: Direct sow fall crops such as beets, carrots, and radishes.
25th: Direct sow turnips and rutabagas.
August:

1st-10th: Harvest onions and garlic.
15th-20th: Start fall crops indoors, including broccoli, cabbage, and cauliflower.
25th: Direct sow cover crops such as clover, vetch, or rye.
September:

1st-10th: Plant fall transplants in the garden beds.
15th-20th: Harvest fall crops such as beets, carrots, and radishes.
25th: Start cleaning up the garden beds for winter.
I hope this calendar helps you plan your garden!



 
Michelle Heath
gardener
Posts: 513
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Thanks Joshua!  I like the way the results can be more detailed based on the requests you make.  I'd love to experiment with it but my plate is overflowing at the moment, but perhaps in a few weeks I can play with it to help determine some summer and fall crops.
 
Betty Garnett
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Okay. This may have won me over here. This is the kind of shit I have 0 interest in gathering. I waste so much time rummaging through my seeds multiple times trying to figure out when and where. How? With what? Companions? Indoors? Wait. Not yet.
So I am also 8a desert so I’m jacking this knowledge.
 
Joshua Bertram
Posts: 672
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What's crazy is that I'm imagining all the ways it could use me as a robot to accomplish what I desire, with what it knows.   The internet already does that, but this just enhances it to a much more intuitive level.  

They are now integrating photos and videos into the newer versions, so it will be able to do things like tell you when your plants are deficient in certain nutrients, or if it has a certain disease just by snapping a photo!  

Take a topographical layout of your land and tell it to make the perfect permaculture paradise of your dreams, with every little detail you want in it.    Design it the way Bill Mollison would then do it the way (enter name here) would.   Do it with an endless budget, or how to do it for free.  

I could probably just go on and on and on and on and on and on

 
r ranson
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Wow!  So glad you shared this.

Does it know about hugelkulture?  
 
Joshua Bertram
Posts: 672
Location: St. George, UT. Zone 8a Dry/arid. 8" of rain in a good year.
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I've been using this thing for the last couple of months or so and yeah, it knows how to answer anything.  It's not necessarily right about anything but it's getting better.   CAUTION must be used if you're going to ask it about important things and then you're going to act on what it says.   Don't do that, lol.  Research what it says.

So I asked it about hugelkultur, here's the conversation.



Hi Jeepty, how are you today?  (side note, I always address it Jeepty for obvious reasons (obvious to Jeep owners))

Hello! As an AI language model, I don't have feelings or emotions like humans do, but I'm functioning well and ready to assist you with any questions or tasks you may have. How can I help you today?


Tell me about hugelkultur.

Hugelkultur (pronounced hoo-gul-culture) is a gardening technique that involves creating a raised bed by layering logs, branches, leaves, and other organic matter on top of the soil. The term "hugelkultur" comes from the German words "hugel" (meaning mound or hill) and "kultur" (meaning culture or cultivation).

The logs and branches used in hugelkultur are typically from trees that have been cut down or pruned, and the technique is often used as a way to make use of this organic material that might otherwise go to waste. The logs and branches are arranged in a mound or raised bed, and then covered with layers of soil, compost, and other organic matter.

As the logs and branches break down over time, they release nutrients into the soil, providing a source of food for plants. Additionally, the organic matter helps to retain moisture in the soil, reducing the need for irrigation.

Hugelkultur is a sustainable gardening technique that can be used to create a long-lasting and productive garden bed. It is particularly useful in areas with poor soil quality or where water is scarce, as it can help to improve soil fertility and reduce water usage.





I live in the desert southwest where trees and organic materials are not readily accessible, what are some things I could use in place of tree branches that should be available in my area?


If you live in an area where trees and organic materials are not readily available, there are still a number of materials you can use to create a hugelkultur bed. Here are some options:

Rocks: If you have access to rocks, you can use them to create a mound or raised bed in a similar way to logs and branches. Rocks can help to provide structure and stability to the bed, and can also help to retain moisture.

Straw or hay: Straw or hay can be used as a substitute for leaves or other organic matter that would normally be used to cover the logs or branches in a hugelkultur bed. Straw or hay can help to retain moisture and also provide a source of nitrogen as it breaks down.

Compost: If you have access to compost, you can use it to create the raised bed and also as a layer on top of the logs or branches. Compost is rich in nutrients and can help to improve soil fertility.

Grass clippings: Grass clippings can be used in place of leaves as a cover material for the logs or branches. As they break down, they provide a source of nitrogen and help to retain moisture.

Manure: If you have access to manure from livestock, you can use it as a layer on top of the logs or branches. Manure is high in nitrogen and other nutrients and can help to improve soil fertility.

Remember to choose materials that are free from pesticides and herbicides, and to use materials that will break down over time and release nutrients into the soil.





A lot of that is hard to find here.  We have a lot of cactus pads.

If you have access to cactus pads in your area, they can be a good substitute for logs or branches in a hugelkultur bed. Cactus pads are rich in water and nutrients and can help to improve soil fertility as they break down over time.

To use cactus pads in a hugelkultur bed, you can layer them on top of each other to create a mound or raised bed, similar to how you would layer logs and branches. You can then cover the cactus pads with a layer of soil, compost, and other organic matter to help them break down and provide nutrients to the soil.

It's important to note that cactus pads can be sharp and spiny, so it's a good idea to wear gloves and use caution when handling them. You may also want to remove the spines before using them in a hugelkultur bed, as they can be difficult to break down and can make the bed uncomfortable to work with.




Take me step by step through the process of building a hugelkultur keeping in mind my location, and that I only have a small amount of grass clippings and branches, and a large amount of cactus pads.  I also can get wood chips for free from a wood chipping company.

Sure, I can provide you with a step-by-step guide to building a hugelkultur bed using the materials you have available. Here's what you can do:

Choose a location: Select a spot in your yard that receives plenty of sunlight and is well-drained. Avoid areas that are prone to flooding or standing water.

Mark the area: Use stakes or a garden hose to mark out the area where you want to build the hugelkultur bed.

Dig a trench: Dig a trench along the perimeter of the marked area. The trench should be about 1-2 feet deep and 2-3 feet wide.

Collect materials: Collect the materials you have available, including cactus pads, grass clippings, branches, and wood chips. You may also want to collect some soil and compost to use in the bed.

Fill the trench: Fill the trench with a layer of branches, followed by a layer of cactus pads. Repeat this process until the trench is filled to the top. You can also add a layer of grass clippings or wood chips if you have them.

Cover with soil: Cover the top of the bed with a layer of soil, followed by a layer of compost or other organic matter.

Plant: You can now plant your desired crops directly into the bed. Make sure to water the bed well after planting.

Maintain the bed: Over time, the organic matter in the bed will break down and settle. You may need to add additional soil or compost to the bed as it settles. You can also continue to add layers of organic matter to the top of the bed to help maintain its fertility.

That's it! With a bit of effort, you can create a sustainable and productive garden bed using the materials you have available. Remember to be patient, as hugelkultur beds can take some time to fully develop and reach their full potential.




It seems to me like those cactus pads would really shrivel up over time causing the bed to almost deflate into nothing rather quicky?  Is this a waste of time?

It's true that cactus pads may shrivel up over time as they break down, but they can still be a valuable addition to a hugelkultur bed. Here are a few reasons why:

Nutrient-rich: Cactus pads are rich in water and nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. As they break down, they release these nutrients into the soil, which can help to improve soil fertility and support plant growth.

Water retention: Cactus pads are also good at retaining water, which can be especially beneficial in a desert environment where water is scarce. As the cactus pads break down, they can help to retain moisture in the soil and reduce the need for frequent watering.

Organic matter: Cactus pads are a source of organic matter, which is important for building healthy soil. Organic matter helps to improve soil structure, promote beneficial soil microorganisms, and increase the soil's ability to hold onto nutrients.

While cactus pads may not last as long as logs or branches in a hugelkultur bed, they can still be a valuable addition that can help to improve soil fertility and support plant growth. To help prevent the cactus pads from breaking down too quickly, you may want to consider covering them with a layer of soil or compost to help regulate moisture levels and slow the decomposition process. You can also add additional layers of organic matter over time to help maintain the bed's fertility.
 
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