Foundation plan, greenwood beams

Im looking at having a house foundation made of stone / cement pillars (9 in total, 3 x 3 format), then 3 large green wood beams on top of these pillars. The pillars will have a threaded bolt cemented to it, and I will have a larger hole drilled through the green wood for the bolts to go through, with a fastener/bolt on top.

Whats a smart way to connect the floorjoists to the greenwood beams? Greenwood will dry and shrink so nailing it or fastening it will crack the wood.

If there is no smart method of doing this, how long could one estimate to wait for the green wood beams to be dry enough to work with? Mind you, these will be almost entire tree trunks.

See pic diagram.

Will there be three beams, each resting on three pillars?  One concern may be that the beams will shrink lengthwise as they dry.  I believe it's around 1%.  So your outermost pillars may be pulled a bit out of position by the slightly shrinking beam.  Maybe drilling a hole to attach to the center pillar and hogging out some slots to bolt to the outer pillars would allow for a bit of movement.

If you don't expect much wind as you build (hurricanes?), you could just rest the floor joists on the beams and screw them down next year once things have dried out a bit.  Or use some kind of attachment that can give a bit as the beams move around.

Correct, three wood beams (all rough cut logs from trees on property), each resting on three pillars. I will then build the floor joists on top of these. Cabins look at around 18' x 22' or maybe 18' x 24' (could vary).

So you advise to do the threaded bolt / nut for the middle pillars like in the first diagram, but im not sure what you mean by the hogging out slots to bolt the outer pillars. Could you expand on that?

I suppose there could be some storms and I wouldnt be sure if the house would move or not lol. Im going to have to come up with a contraction to keep these green beams in place until they full dry then add " L " bracks or nail in the joists to these beams.

Sure, slots are basically wide holes.  The anchor (if not terribly tight) can stay put as the beam slides back and forth under it.

Will the beams run the long way or the short way on this 18 x 22/24 cabin? In any case, the outer beams will be better protected from weather, and make for stiffer floor joists, if they are set in a foot or so from the rim joist. I would also set the pillars in a foot or so from the ends of the beams for the same stiffening benefit.

"The amount a piece of wood will shrink lengthwise, called longitudinal shrinkage, is so small—typically about 0.1% to 0.2%—that it is usually inconsequential to the volumetric shrinkage." So you can expect less than 1/2" of total longitudinal shrinkage in your beams, pretty much negligible.

You will of course want to use the straightest logs you can find with no twist to the grain, to minimize movement after placement. Aside from peeling, and flattening the whole top and the bottom at pillar locations, will you be doing more surfacing? Depending on the species, there may be significant checking (long cracks). Ash and maple which split easily for firewood are especially susceptible to this, and if the grain twists it may cause significant distortion of the bearing surface. Nailing at least a couple of places where each joist sits on the beam may help restrain movement, and if the floor framing and subfloor is finished before checking starts, the whole floor will resist distortion.