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What Shouldn't We Make Biochar Out Of?

 
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My MIL and I are going to make some biochar in her backyard.  Are there types of plant/yard debris that we _shouldn't use because its unsafe?
 
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Things you can turn into biochar: Any wood or woody material, including bamboo. You can also use crop residue, seaweed, and even dry manure or food scraps, although I would be much more inclined to compost those than pyrolyse them.

Things you don't want in your feedstock: Treated timber, especially the types that are made for long durability in the ground and have metals in them. Paints and other finishes are also things to keep out, with the exception of natural ones like linseed oil and limewash. Try to keep rubbish out as much as possible, but the odd bit of metal or glass is easy enough to fish out later if it does get past you. Little bits of plastic will literally disappear as long as the temperatures are high enough.

Things to be careful around: Some green matter, like oleander or ivy, releases toxic compounds when it burns. This is mostly when it's green, so if everything is dry it's less of an issue, and if your method is hot and clean then there won't be any smoke anyway.
 
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Phil Stevens wrote:Things you don't want in your feedstock: Treated timber, especially the types that are made for long durability in the ground and have metals in them.


I think Phil summed it up well. I wanted to expand on this and emphasize a few things.

Old fence posts, lattice, 4x4s', landscape ties etc. were possibly/probably treated with an arsenic based preservative. This element doesn't break down, and it doesn't go away. Some plants will take it up into their tissues. Obviously you don't want this stuff in your grow zone.

Also, run far far away from anything preserved with coal tar creosote. This typically means railway ties, often used for landscaping. I was "gifted" with a ton of this, used for terracing 25 years ago, at my current property. Coal tar creosote by itself is a nasty witches-brew of suspected carcinogens. If you burn it outside of an industrial grade incinerator it releases a plume of dioxins and furans, which are stable, carcinogenic, and fat-soluble in mammals. This is big picture ugly, people.

 
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Good advice above. I'd probably avoid any plants like poison ivy, oak, or sumac. Mountain-laurel as well. Anything that if burned can release nasty stuff you don't want to breathe.
 
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I agree with all points made so far.  Definitely stay away from non-OMRI based materials (treated posts are bad).

My guess is that poison ivy/oak/sumac etc. will make decent char, but as stated above, I certainly wouldn’t want to be around smoke & combustion products released during the char-making process.

So for the organic, non-poisonous materials that still might not be ideal, I might think twice before using seaweed.  Not that seaweed wouldn’t make a good source of char, but it seems like a shame to turn it into char when it could otherwise be used for compost.  Also, I would think that being so high in water content, the seaweed would require a lot of energy to char in the first place.

Just my thoughts,

Eric
 
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In addition to the things to avoid mentioned above (basically anything chemically treated), I would not make biochar with wood over 3-4” diameter. Larger pieces do not seem to char through, and they were not major wildfire vectors/spreaders. These larger pieces have better uses as well, as firewood, mulch, wildlife habitat, fungal food etc. My main reason for making biochar is to process excess wildfire fuels, so I focus on the ramial wood (3” and under) and brush that really spreads fire fast. Larger pieces hold moisture and when in contact with the ground, get naturally inoculated with fire retardant fungi.
 
Douglas Alpenstock
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I also avoid scraps of plywood, OSB board, particle board, or any engineered product. I may burn tiny scraps in my shop stove, but I don't know what weirdo chemicals might be left behind. For biochar I only use natural wood.
 
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Good points all around.  Seaweed is extremely useful for charging the biochar once it is cooked and crushed. I think it's way less useful to turn into char, and it has very little carbon in it.  I would only use it for inoculation.

Wood is a great material, obviously, as long as it's clean. It has a lot of carbon in it.  Since I live in the same metro area as the OP, we can get a lot of wood, easily for free. We grow wood very well here.  The tallest trees in the world grow in our area.  

In other areas, they burn corn cobs and other plant materials.  They won't have as much carbon in them, but maybe that's what they have there.  All areas should be able to make some biochar with their type of plant biomass.  Sugar canes and bamboo come to mind as well.  A basic idea of permaculture is to use what you have and make it productive for you where you are.

John S
PDX OR
 
Phil Stevens
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I put seaweed on my list mostly because in certain places, like the Caribbean, there is a periodic abundance of the stuff. The sargassum excess in that region for the past few years has had major impacts on the environment, the beaches and people's livelihoods, so it's one of those situations where life gives you lemons and you make lemonade. Seaweed biochar is much lower in carbon than that made from wood, but the minerals that balance it out are great to have, especially if you're inland and don't have all the trace elements in your soil.

What I like to do is brew up barrels of seaweed tea for several months to use as inoculant, and then take the solids out, dry them, and add them to a burn for the mineral boost. I've tried composting it but it takes well over a year to break down and tends to make the pile a real pain to turn, so biochar is the preferred end use at our place.
 
Eric Hanson
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Phil,

As I was posting I was thinking about a trip my family took to Mexico a couple of years ago.  We went to the beach only to be confronted with two FEET of sargassum sitting right on the surf with vastly more offshore.  We saw a crew with a tractor, trailer and rakes gathering up huge loads and depositing in gigantic pyramids that sat just inshore.  No doubt that in those circumstances, with that much excessive seaweed, turning some into char is good both for the char and for simple disposal.

Eric
 
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So I have plenty of pine cones in my driveway...Anyone see a problem with using them, I know they are easily flammable and contain resins in the sap?
 
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Kyle Hayward wrote:So I have plenty of pine cones in my driveway...Anyone see a problem with using them, I know they are easily flammable and contain resins in the sap?

When I use them, I mix them with sawdust. Sawdust tends to compact and risks areas that don't get charred. The cones risk too much heat and trapped air, so a risk of them turning to ash. The mix seems to work for me. I'm using a Restaurant Heating pan inside a wood stove.
 
Phil Stevens
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Kyle Hayward wrote:So I have plenty of pine cones in my driveway...Anyone see a problem with using them, I know they are easily flammable and contain resins in the sap?



Pine cones work great in my kontiki. So do the "cones" from banksia trees, an Australian genus that waits for fire to release its seeds. One thing that can happen with dry pine cones, as well as any resinous fuel, is the formation of black smoke when they're added to a flame cap burn. This is because the ratio of volatile hydrocarbons is much higher than regular wood and they get gasified too quickly, overrunning the oxygen available in the active combustion zone and recondensing as soot. To avoid this, don't add too many at once. Soot is really bad for air quality and people's health (and it has a high atmospheric warming potential, so it defeats one of the main reasons we make biochar).
 
John Suavecito
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Yes, I use pine and other cones primarily at the start to get the fire really going.  They are great, if dry, as fire starters.

Afterwards, as Phil said, the ratio isn't optimal.

JohN S
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Riona Abhainn
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Thanks all, so basically nothing that will put unsafe chemicals or poison energy into the air.  We'll be doing this in my MIL's backyard, she loves it when I come over and do projects with her, hopefully we'll both be able to use what we make for our plants.  Her growing space is notably bigger since she has a nice-sized yard and I've got pots on a patio haha.
 
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How to apply biochar to the soil. On the surface only. Notill
 
John Suavecito
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Roger Engstrom wrote:How to apply biochar to the soil. On the surface only. Notill



Hi Roger,
I've posted about this many times.  There are different ways to apply biochar without tilling.  I dig in a spade and jimmy it back and forth at the dripline, creating an upside down, triangular solid crevasse. Then I fill that crevasse.

I think that there are some advantages to this process.  The biochar goes deeper, so it's much less likely to dry out.  Since it is at different depths, it can provide housing to different species and even kingdoms of microbes.  The mycelium can then travel and provide differing nutrition to different plants and areas.  It can harbor moisture deep in the soil better in the drier parts of the year, when plants are thirsty.  It can also provide much better drainage, because, by definition, drainage occurs when excessive water can flow down and out.  
John S
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Jay Angler
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Roger Engstrom wrote:How to apply biochar to the soil. On the surface only. No till

"Tilling" as I understand it, is particularly disruptive because it mixes soil. John's system, isn't doing any mixing, so I wouldn't call it "tilling" myself.

I can think of 3 ways to accomplish good use of biochar with absolutely *no* opening up the soil:
1. Put the biochar on the surface of the soil, and then cover the soil with a foot of compost, dead plants, wood chips, or a combination of those.
2. Feed the biochar as part to ruminants and let them  distribute it naturally to the land.
3. Create the creation of Terra Preta in South America - tricky as we're not exactly sure of the recipe, and the recipe was local to their ecosystem, so you'd likely have to be a bit creative.
 
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I watched a doco on the traditional methods of making charcoal . They had a huge pile of sticks and covered it with wet coconut husk and then wet sand lit it from the top by dropping burning sticks and then covering it with the coco husk and more sand to seal it.
They had small air holes near the bottom and some near the top and checked it throughout the approx. 21 days finally covering the air holes and waiting for it to cool down.
Is this biochar?
 
Phil Stevens
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Kylie Bobongie wrote:I watched a doco on the traditional methods of making charcoal . They had a huge pile of sticks and covered it with wet coconut husk and then wet sand lit it from the top by dropping burning sticks and then covering it with the coco husk and more sand to seal it.
They had small air holes near the bottom and some near the top and checked it throughout the approx. 21 days finally covering the air holes and waiting for it to cool down.
Is this biochar?



Probably not. This is like many traditional methods for making charcoal that is basically a process of smoldering with limited oxygen. The temperatures won't get high enough to drive off all the volatile fractions and what you get is great for cooking but not so good for soil. Very little porosity and the carbon matrix won't have many ring structures, so it won't grab nutrients and hold them for soil life to use.
 
John Suavecito
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Yes, Jay makes a good point about covering it, or applying it in a method where it is mixed in with something that has moisture in it.   Many put their biochar into compost, or have the chickens eat or put their droppings in it.  That's a good system, IMHO.  Mulch is also great, and I will almost always put mulch on top of the crevasse, so it doesn't dry out.  

The method that Kylie talks about probably wouldn't be considered biochar, but it would have some of the positive aspects of it.  Since we don't really know how Terra Preta was created, this could have been part of it.  The wood left in the partial char would rot over time, leaving only the charred material as carbon for posterity.  It wouldn't create as much biochar, but some could eventually become inoculated and turn into biochar.

John S
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Douglas Alpenstock
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Jay Angler wrote:

Roger Engstrom wrote:How to apply biochar to the soil. On the surface only. No till


"Tilling" as I understand it, is particularly disruptive because it mixes soil. John's system, isn't doing any mixing, so I wouldn't call it "tilling" myself.


Throwing char on the surface to dry out in the sun is a waste. It won't do much of anything. John and Jay have it right.

I have used char in heavy clay and in sand/silt. For best effect, some of it needs to be incorporated deeply, along with all available biomass. Think of the tectonic plates that make Earth a vibrant (and fertile!) planet. A fanciful comparison, perhaps, but I think we reproduce this slow churn, one shovel at a time, opening a deep slice and creating the conditions for deep and resilient, fertile soil.

This is of course not to be confused with creating a mechanical 2" soil puree where everything sprouts wonderfully and then withers because it can't penetrate deeper and thrive, unless supported by what is essentially a hydroponics system.
 
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Thoughts on either cedar or woods high in juglone?  (i.e. Black walnut, hickory, sugar maple, tree of heaven, hackberries, sycamore, cottonwood, black cherry, red oak, black locust, sassafras, fine fescue, American elm, etc.)

I've read conflicting information, some indicating that it could harm or restrict plant growth, but were unclear if juglone or other negative properties are eliminated through the pyrolysis or not.    

Basically, if certain woods are avoided in a hügelkultur bed, should they also be avoided as biochar?

Juglone Ref: https://extension.psu.edu/landscaping-and-gardening-around-walnuts-and-other-juglone-producing-plants
 
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I built a couple of TLUD's, but could never keep them lit.  I was just about to build a Kontiki when I cam across a burn-barrel method (see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNOiVCpRWXw ).  I'll see if that works for me.  I have maybe 100 tons of broken, rotted, tornado damaged wood to do something with.  I've been wanting to figure out how to turn as much  as possible into char.
 
Ebo David
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As a note, I have heard of people having lung problems when burning poison ivy by accident.  This is something I will have to be careful with at my place.
 
Ebo David
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@R_Dell, interesting point.  To be frank, I am not sure.  If you find out something definitive, please post back.  From the following https://www.sciencemadness.org/smwiki/index.php/Juglone it looks like juglone decomposes between 381–385C, and a typical biochar retort runs betwen 300C and 1000C, I would say that as long as you are cooking it at an elevated temperature, you should be fine. The question then is about pieces that are not completely charred...

Where I would stop though is if there are high metal content in the woods (lead, arsenic, cadmium, etc), unless you want the specific elements (like selenium).  I did a quick search and found the following that might be useful for folks:

 A global database for plants that hyperaccumulate metal and metalloid trace elements:
 https://nph.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/nph.14907

It may be slightly OT, but I have to wonder how treated woods compare to natural woods which hyper-accumulate.  Probably a small fraction, but I have not looked into it.
 
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R Dell wrote:Thoughts on either cedar or woods high in juglone?  (i.e. Black walnut, hickory, sugar maple, tree of heaven, hackberries, sycamore, cottonwood, black cherry, red oak, black locust, sassafras, fine fescue, American elm, etc.)

I've read conflicting information, some indicating that it could harm or restrict plant growth, but were unclear if juglone or other negative properties are eliminated through the pyrolysis or not.    

Basically, if certain woods are avoided in a hügelkultur bed, should they also be avoided as biochar?

Juglone Ref: https://extension.psu.edu/landscaping-and-gardening-around-walnuts-and-other-juglone-producing-plants



Good question.  I wouldn't worry about any of those except Black walnut, black locust and cedar. Cedar was and is used by the Native Americans in my area for many things: Canoes, houses, outdoor decks and furniture, clothing, and in general, objects that you want to last a long time.  People will invade your property to haul off your black walnut tree. I think they use it in furniture.  So really, it's a question of best use.  If I had those, and I was willing to cut them down, I'd probably sell them.  I also use some types of cedar-Thuja genus in particular-to make medicinal tea out of in the winter during flu and cold season-right now!  Sugar maple is prized for drilling into and making mushroom logs out of, as well as famously for SYRUP! Black locust is famous to use for fences as it lasts a long time.  Sassafras is also medicinal-the original taste of root beer and was used as a kind of toothbrush back in the day.

John S
PDX OR
 
John Suavecito
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Ebo David wrote:I built a couple of TLUD's, but could never keep them lit.  I was just about to build a Kontiki when I cam across a burn-barrel method (see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bNOiVCpRWXw ).  I'll see if that works for me.  I have maybe 100 tons of broken, rotted, tornado damaged wood to do something with.  I've been wanting to figure out how to turn as much  as possible into char.



Yes, Trace Oswald has been very successful with that method, and others have followed suit.
John S
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R Dell
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John Suavecito wrote: I wouldn't worry about any of those except Black walnut, black locust and cedar. So really, it's a question of best use.



Thank you, John. Completely agree on alternative (and fantastic) other uses for those woods!  I was mainly curious about the dangers of creating biochar from those particular woods. So, it sounds like you think the black walnut, black locust, and cedar should be avoided in making biochar.    (I had some cedar laying around from a forest fire, and wouldn't want to add it to the compost if it would create negative affects.)
 
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Thuja (western red cedar) is great for fences, or lining your pathways or making raised beds out of, as well as the other uses I previously mentioned.  

Many cedars would be fine to make biochar out of.  Atlas cedar, diodar cedar, and cedar of Lebanon are true cedars of the Cedrus genus.  On the East Coast, they refer to a juniper as a cedar, so I would try to be careful about which type of "cedar" you have.  

John S
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@R_Dell, personally what I would do is to make a single load of biochar from each of the sources you mention (small to medium branches, etc.), and make sure I run the retort as hot as reasonably possible.  Then I would inoculate it, and try growing some things in a 50/50 compost char mixture and see what sprouts/grows. Other than that, do you know an labs that can assay samples for you?  

If you want to be more systematic, separate the top 5" of the burn from the middle and the bottom.  Test each section as a different experimental treatment.  Also have a control of just soil/compost, and another treatment of a different type of wood you trust.  This helps you tease out the effects of wood type, wood/compost/soil mixtures, and a standard control.  To make this really work experimentally, you need to try to take out all other variables -- make the burns around the same date, so that no aging confounds the analysis, use the same compost  and soil sources (and mix them well).  It could turn into a bit of work to do it experimentally, but I imagine that getting it tested to cost a bundle (I could be wrong though, and it would pay to check around).
 
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@john nice catch on the medicinal uses.  I know people that use small pieces of nice woods to make pens and other turning projects.  We just need to come up with a nano-wood-drying-kiln to ready these for projects...

 EBo --
 
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R Dell wrote:I had some cedar laying around from a forest fire, and wouldn't want to add it to the compost if it would create negative affects.

I find that ones ecosystem is a factor also. People tell me that plants don't like cedar, but I've got a cedar hedge that tells me differently! I live in a cedar ecosystem and my theory is that the soil biology has developed (and I do nothing to damage it) to cope with and help plants cope with the local, native, cedar. A cedar hedge in the city with damaged soil, may be another story.

Also, quantity may make a difference. We chip and shred prunings to keep our fire risk a bit lower. If we have a large amount of cedar, it gets chipped in a specific location and tends to get used for pathways. If there's just a piece or two on a trailer load of mixed branches, it goes on the big pile that I use for bird bedding before it goes into compost piles for future garden use. That's very different than adding many large pieces to a hügelkultur, which I agree is a bad idea.

Similarly, if I was doing a biochar burn, I wouldn't stress about a few bits of cedar. If I was doing a burn and wanted to use it to enrich the soil below the cedar trees, or the cedar hedge, I'd use all the cedar that wasn't useful for other tasks. I've used cedar sawdust to make biochar before, but it gets mixed with all the above mentioned shit inoculated wood chip bedding and lots of fresh green veggie scraps when I'm filling a compost bin, so again, I'm not too worried. Cedar chemicals are natural and they don't hang around forever. The dose makes the poison, and time cures many problems.

If you don't mind doing the work for the forest, save the cedar biochar for the cedar trees, and put it around their drip-line. It will still sequester carbon, which feel is worth the effort.
 
Phil Stevens
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Ebo David wrote:@R_Dell, interesting point.  To be frank, I am not sure.  If you find out something definitive, please post back.  From the following <https://www.sciencemadness.org/smwiki/index.php/Juglone>; it looks like juglone decomposes between 381–385C, and a typical biochar retort runs betwen 300C and 1000C, I would say that as long as you are cooking it at an elevated temperature, you should be fine. The question then is about pieces that are not completely charred...

Where I would stop though is if there are high metal content in the woods (lead, arsenic, cadmium, etc), unless you want the specific elements (like selenium).  I did a quick search and found the following that might be useful for folks:

 A global database for plants that hyperaccumulate metal and metalloid trace elements:
 https://nph.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/nph.14907

It may be slightly OT, but I have to wonder how treated woods compare to natural woods which hyper-accumulate.  Probably a small fraction, but I have not looked into it.



Treatment temperatures above 400C will destroy any organic compounds present, so we don't worry about juglone or the antifungal properties of woods like cedar and cypress.

Heavy metals are another story altogether, but at the levels present in most wood I would not worry about it. If the trees grew in proximity to mine tailings or some other source, I would test the biochar just to be certain. You could still use it in non-environmental applications, like as an aggregate in concrete or asphalt. Or you could dump it into an abandoned mine ;-)
 
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Jay Angler wrote: The dose makes the poison, and time cures many problems.
If you don't mind doing the work for the forest, save the cedar biochar for the cedar trees, and put it around their drip-line. It will still sequester carbon, which feel is worth the effort.


Jay: thank you, very helpful.  Agree; time does cure many problems, but the duration in high elevation mountains can take decades for the land to recover, so I prefer to use caution and avoid unnessasary detrimental "accidents" to recover from. :)  Brilliant idea on using the cedar biochar around the existing cedar trees!

Phil Stevens wrote:
Treatment temperatures above 400C will destroy any organic compounds present, so we don't worry about juglone or the antifungal properties of woods like cedar and cypress.


Phil: exactly what I was trying to pinpoint, thank you for your input!

 
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This site has been incredibly helpful in our journey to permaculture.  We would like to thank you all for your sage advice.

A little background,  We live in northern lower Michigan in zone 4b. The soil here is sand with occasional pockets of clay like soils.
When we started our gardens they were great for one year and then nothing.  We tried hay bale gardens, massive topsoil gardens but nothing worked for more than a year.  This led us to you, to hegel kulture, biochar and, most recently and importantly, rocket mass heater technology.

What we realized is that the sandy soil retained absolutely nothing.   We decided that we needed a new approach.  We were clearing old. previous lumbered areass with a hodgepodge of mixed trees for future pastures.  A few hardwoods, maples and oaks, with pines. wild cherries, poplars and aspens. We decided to try a combination of hegel kulture with biochar.  We began by making beds with the poplars and aspens as a base, covered by a layer of reclaimed top soil (it wasn't very thick) then a thin layer of precharged biochar covered with an equal mix of fresh top soil and composted cow manure.

Originally, all of the hard woods were set aside, large trees for the lumber mill, large limbs for the fireplaces and woodstoves and the small limbs (<2.5") and tops cut up and dried for the biochar retort.  The dried pine was cut up, split and packed around the outside edge of the retort which was filled with the smaller hardwood pieces.  We used the pine cones to start the fire around the retort.

The resultiung lump charcoal is then pulverized in a electric cement mixed with medium sized stones. It comes out as a medium fine powder.  This is then placed in a drum with water, urine, essentisl elements and humic and fulvic acids.  In the beginning the charcoal all floats but as it becomes primed it starts to sink. Tis concoction is stirred every few days and when it is ready then we add the sawdust and, if necessary, a little more water.  The biggest problem is spreading it on a bed.  We strive for a 10-15% ratio to the top soil and composted manure we will be adding. It is difficult to spread uniformly so we end up raking it out as evenly as we can.

There are porbably some aspects that could be improved but the results so far have been amazing.  Our crop yeilds have grealty increased and there is much greater consistency year to year with only adding composted manure every year.

With the discovery of rocket mass heater technology we are having to rethink how we harvest and use our wood.  We are just starting our first RMH in what is to become our recration/library/exercise room in the very old original shack and garage.  As this project progresses we will be coming back to this community for much needed advice.

 
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Great example, Steve!
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Phil Stevens wrote:Treatment temperatures above 400C will destroy any organic compounds present, so we don't worry about juglone or the antifungal properties of woods like cedar and cypress.

Heavy metals are another story altogether, but at the levels present in most wood I would not worry about it. If the trees grew in proximity to mine tailings or some other source, I would test the biochar just to be certain. You could still use it in non-environmental applications, like as an aggregate in concrete or asphalt. Or you could dump it into an abandoned mine ;-)



re: temperatures...
Agreed, but I also see listed places that some retorts work as low as 300C, hence my comment about removing any which has not been completely charred.  It would be interesting to look at how well it broke the organic compounds, but as someone mentioned (you?), placing that at the drip-line of the same species of tree would likely help it...

re: heavy metals...
I have a mutation of the MTHFR gene (see: https://www.cdc.gov/ncbddd/folicacid/mthfr-gene-and-folic-acid.html ).  Any lead, mercury, cadmium, etc., I can keep out of my food is worth any amount of extra trouble.  Also, you can have your soils tested cheaply and eaily by your local Agricultural Extension Service (or they will tell you who to send the samples to).  

Hmmm... that reminds me of another OT subject - never grow your garden in soils next to your house.  Many old houses used lead paint,etc., and the dust from this contaminates the soils near permanently.  (see: https://www.houzz.com/discussions/1406540/planting-veggies-and-fruits-next-to-the-house-ok for a discussion with lots of good info).  BTW, the main part of our house was built in the 1920's and the soil lead is high enough that the county agent said to keep kids from playing there.  One of the things we will try to "lock it up" is to raise the Ph (low Ph soils, i.e. acidic, will mobilize the metals in the clays and soils).
 
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Ebo David wrote:re: heavy metals...
I have a mutation of the MTHFR gene (see: https://www.cdc.gov/ncbddd/folicacid/mthfr-gene-and-folic-acid.html ).  Any lead, mercury, cadmium, etc., I can keep out of my food is worth any amount of extra trouble.  

Special and important situation for you Ebo. I read a book about soil repair in Britain. Sunflowers were specifically grown for their ability to clean the soil of lead. You could grow and then dispose of to the dump, to get any lead off your land. In heavily contaminated sites, they actually dried the sunflowers and sent them to a company that burned them and recaptured the lead. Sometimes the problem really is the solution - less lead mined if we recapture it.

There are other plants with strong affinity to other elements/chemicals to the point that there is now talk of using them to "mine" those chemicals in suitable areas. My concern with the article I read on that subject is the tendency for humans to plant monocultures and then wonder what went wrong when Mother Nature gets annoyed.  

Try to stay safe!
 
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