I wonder if coating the wood with oil, wax, etc. might diminish that property.
I mix beeswax and olive oil to polish our unfinished (or no longer finished) wood. Doesn't hold up so well on a boat on salt water (just the trim, all above water line!) but holds up for months indoors.
To mix in solids you need them at same temp as all ingredients so I heat olive oil and beeswax in two separate metal bowls in same pan water then mix them to get my pasty at 70F beeswax/olive oil combo. DO NOT TRY WITH LINSEED OIL I presume. I have put beeswax shavings into linseed and other oil and all you have is shavings floating in the liquid which do not get into wood until melted by your fingers trying to rub the gook in.
Paul certainly does his research. Currently, I use the free, cheap, no oil version. Though one of these days I will try the walnut oil idea.
Wow - a dishwasher ... Do you use the drying cycle? Do you oil your wood?
I would think that the super hot water would really pull the oils out of the wood.
So .... I'm surprised you are not having problems. The water in your washer does get super hot, right?
I do not even remember where they came from I have had them so long.
But I will start oiling them now. What Walnut oil do you use ( brand)?
> Please, follow the link below and see the Annual Catalogue:
Rancidification is the same thing as curing. It smells the way it does because the linseed or walnut or tung or clove etc. oil is going through chemical changes that make it a solid, insoluble polymer. The whole point of adding walnut oil is that it will quickly "dry" (aka "cure", aka "go rancid", leaving an inert, non-toxic coating.
Any odor was gone long before I noticed it. It is potentially a problem for a good friend of mine with life-threatening nut allergies, but I don't serve her food that's touched wood.
You're going in a direction that is warping my brain.
Polymerizing oil is the same as oil turning rancid?
I know that this is what you just said .... and I could see it being true ... I guess I am riddled with doubt and am hoping that you will say magic words to help me understand it better.
In the case of drying oils (linseed oil is a good example, but raw, expeller-pressed canola is a "semi-drying" oil...more on that later), omega-3 fatty acids react with one another to become a solid mass of linoleum, or a priceless artistic masterpiece, or a disgusting skin on your bottle of oil. And the reaction overall releases a range of strong-smelling chemicals, depending on what sorts of fatty acid, and which of several reactions each one participated in.
In a bottle of oil, these chemicals build up, and the smell becomes unpleasant. Even if it's open to air, the reaction takes a while, because there's such a great depth of oil. The half-polymerized oil might not be very good for you (although conjugated linoleic acid can be good for you, so like everything else, it's complicated). Food processors strip the omega-3s out of any oil they sell ("deodorized" canola), or choose species that don't produce much, to prevent this from happening.
In a painting or an oiled piece of wood, the oil coats every fiber or speck of pigment, and has a very large surface area, so the reaction happens quickly. Thick impasto on some paintings takes decades to cure through its depth, but with a thin coat, the reaction is done and the smell has dissipated after a reasonably short time.
Stale walnuts, that have begun to taste rancid, will be roughly equivalent to old-fashioned boiled linseed oil. A bottle of oil that has begun to turn would also be perfectly appropriate for wood care, perhaps slightly more so than a fresh one.
The main reason I use whole nuts is that they come in a convenient, single-use package.
Oh, and you're very welcome. Explaining things is one of my favorite activities, some say too much so...
Speaking of which:
Modern-day "boiled" linseed oil isn't boiled at all, it just has some metal catalyst particles mixed in. These make the reaction happen faster. I think black iron oxide is the catalyst they use most often, but most oxides work. This is another aspect of oil-based paint: that thick impasto wouldn't cure even as quickly as it does, without the action of pigments on the oil.
Another common strategy food packagers use against rancidity is to mix in disodium EDTA. EDTA is also used in chelation therapy, for the same reason: it binds to metal ions, and tends to be more fond of the more-toxic ions. It is the antidote to metal catalysts, in other words: mixed into "boiled" linseed oil, it becomes ferric EDTA or ferrous EDTA, and the catalyst particle is isolated from the oil.
or nitrogen packed anything- I was told years ago nitrogen packing destroys enzymes. In your understanding, is this true?
Sorry to get way off topic here, but when you mentioned
EDTA, I wondered if you have any thoughts on powdered zeolite. We have jet & auto fall out in the Tampa Bay area and a friend recently had her dogs tested for heavy metals - the tests came back "off the charts." It actually had not occurred to me before, but our pets- cats esp ecially hang out under cars walk on the ground and in cleaning ingest probably more than people do of environmental heavy metals. I started giving my own brood powdered zeolite because I really couldn't find anything anywhere that would suggest not doing this.
Sorry Paul, I know this is way off topic, but just had to ask Joel if he has any thoughts on zeolite while I can...
Nitrogen shouldn't destroy the enzymes at all. It's used because it is so inert. I could imagine slightly fewer enzymes in food that's been stored for an extremely long time, and that long storage was made possible by packing in nitrogen...but anything that might keep for so long will be dormant, such as an un-sprouted seed, and those sorts of food aren't a great source of enzymes to begin with. But they make enzymes very vigorously if brought out of dormancy.
I tend to trust my own glands and gut flora to produce enough enzymes in most cases, and fermentation cultures in almost every other case. Or maybe you mean something different by the word "enzyme," in which case what I've said might not apply.
I mostly encounter zeolites in an entirely different context, and don't have much of an opinion about internal use to treat heavy metal exposure. I'd be careful about breathing them in.
Sadly, few other mammals live as long as we do, so some of the problems we develop from heavy metal exposure might not have time to develop in pets. I think making sure there's enough calcium in their diet would help a lot, whatever other measures you take.
1) White Oak heart wood (the inner dark part of the log)
2) Osage Orange wood, it lasts 100 years underground and is the strongest wood found in N. America.
3) Cherry heart wood
4) Persimmon heart wood
For coatings on my newly made furniture I use veggie oil.
It works fantastic and never smells badly.
The dog chewed it once when encouraged by a small child.
Food grade Flax oil is good but I would not use "lindseed oil" (same thing) because they can denature it.
Walnut has a naturally occuring herbicide called Juglone in it that is toxic to humans at some dosage.
Much of the wooden ware floating around seems to be a chinese variety of wood.
These woods all grow around me in TN, USA and are substainably harvested our of peoples yards. We save the logs from landfills.
I just got an old used butcher block with legs. Do I need to sand the top and then cure it with walnut oil or will just cleaning it with soap and water really good them disinfecting it with a diluted clorox solution be enough before oiling it? The top is smooth with no cut marks.
Steam and sunshine are both good disinfectants that will not leave a residue.
http://lifehacker.com/5836790/protect-w ... walnut-oil
this is the third time this summer that lifehacker made a huge link to something of mine.
Your post was moved to a new topic.
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