A local nursery is probably the best, as you would be buying trees that were grown in your climate.
In another post, you indicated that you were in WV. If so, check out this ($1-2 ea) for nut trees:
That is Clements State
When the bonfire dies down and the pieces in the fire no longer look like logs and branches, but more like coals in the fireplace, it's time to quench the fire. Hose it down good and stir or rake it around, realizing that it can still be quite hot and re-ignite. Usually, I let it steam for 10 minutes and then give it another drench and stir.
Now that you have a pile of biochar (but much, much smaller than the pile of wood you started with), you can apply it to your soil. Biochar application rates are measured in tons per acre (10 tons per acre being about a half-pound per square foot), so it's real hard to overdo the application. Those terra preta soils in South America were probably built up over centuries of biochar application by the indigenous people. Work it into your soil, add it to the mulch around the fruit trees, grind it up in a blender and add it to compost and compost tea, there are many different ways to get the benefits of biochar.
Oh, yes: when the woods rots the carbon is released, just as if they were burned. So, you might as well do what is convenient. Also google hugelculture on the permies site: I have never done it but, apparently, wood is buried and when it is half-rotted it retains water. People plant vegetables over the buried wood, and the damp wood waters the plants.
It often means becoming a slave to an outside job, and the lender.
And since the land will eventually cost you 3X the sales price, you have very little 'spare cash' to put into the land.
I tried reading all the pages I could find about biochar on this site but couldn't find the basic info. Could someone please give a link to the basic concept and instructions for biochar?
If we happen to have bits of charcoal after a fire, would it be useful to throw it down the composting toilet or in the compost heap? Will that improve the compost as well as inoculating the the biochar?
But you have the basic idea right already. Biochar are the little bits of unburned charcoal left after the fire goes out, and throwing it in the composting toilet, the compost pile, soaking it with compost tea, these all inoculate all the little pore spaces of the charcoal with beneficial soil organisms. I like to grind it up with an immersion blender in a Big Gulp size plastic cup of water and then add it to a bucket of compost tea, use it as a root drench, cover the bottom of a new planting bed, etc.
faith alkire wrote:so my question is where would be the best place to buy trees should i go to a big box store a local greenhouse or use an online source like the arbor day foundation. also should i go with dwarf semi or full size..
Everybody on permies.com should know about Lawyer Nursery. They are in Plains MT with a branch in Olympia WA. Do not be put off by the Web site's statement that they are wholesale only. They will sell to you if you ask them pretty please. They have a lot of plants that permies love. But you have to buy in large quantities to get the lowest prices. I hope this is helpful. This is an excellent source of excellent nursery stock.
When it comes to plants or animals genitics count. With animals it costs the same amount of money to feed a good animals as it does a bad animal.
Plus the purchase price is seldom the major cost of ownership over the animals life time.
With plant it is a little different but similar. In my area we have fireblight. Cheap trees that can not take fireblight are likely to be attacked and many will die or be badly damaged.
So before price one should set requirements that must be met in selecting plant or animal.
Only when you have a solid set of requirement that meet your ecology and local conditions can you then start focusing on price.
With plants you then get into price versus time. Younger plants tend to cost less but require more time to grow.
Then there is also skill and knowhow. Can you purchase root stock and graft your own woody plant materials?
Finally, there is collecting seed from good stock and raising your own seedlings.
So best sources of plant material can be a very complicated question.
It would be easier to ask "What nurseries sells X grade of Y plant material at wholesale prices in quantities small enought for me to purchase."
alex Keenan wrote:I see alot of talk about price when looking for sources of plant material."
I actually wasn't asking about price i was asking for an opinion on where to look for the best trees not the best priced trees. a tree is a 25-100 year investment so i want good reliable sources
I work in a nursery, we occasionally buy bareroot product and sometimes lose 25% even when babying them in containers. Letting them develop some root system will make transplanting much easier with fewer losses, giving you stronger trees.
Ed Waters wrote:Kelby: I have done this, but for the most part it was in the Spring when we are just too busy to get everything we ordered in the ground. Have not tried it for a whole year. What do you do with these plants in the winter? We have tried ordering and planting in the Fall, but have had problems with the frost pushing them out of the ground so your solution would be a big help.
Easiest thing to do, if they are in containers, put them in a shed or unheated garage. The winter wind is what will normally kill plants in containers; the root systems will freeze out.
If you get bareroot in fall, you can try heeling them in some compost for the winter, bury the roots lightly and mulch them so they don't dry out.
Planting them in the fall is best they get to grow a root system without transpiring water thru leaves or deal with hot sun. Plus in the fall/winter the soil usually have enough water.
If you plant in the spring. Then you the plants have less time to grow a good root system before the temp rises, but I have had good luck so far. Plus a nursery owner/worker cant really plant in ground because they have to sell them back(plus virus/pest free stipulations) so container is the way to go for a nursery but not for a homeowner.
If you plan on harvesting then dwarf is the way to go, if you just want to have it then full size is what I would go with.
One green world has the best success, nothing dies but they cost $25 not $2.
Last thing we try doing our propagation from nuts, layering, cuttings, but if there is a best way to work with wholesale suppliers then I would be interested in hearing best methods.
They have the largest selection I have seen anywhere, and their prices are very reasonable.
I think we are supposed to get a few good starts and then propagate more from them?
What kind of corn soldier are you? And don't say "kernel" - that's only for this tiny ad:
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