Quintin Holmberg wrote:No, it does not adhere to all the principles advocated here. Yes, they are more traditional in their approach. However, they are responsible in what they advocate for, unlike traditional commercial beekeepers, and their system does have a high success rate of keeping bees alive over a long and arduous winter.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:The guide to pests is not as suspicious as it's name implies. It's an identification guide with an emphasis on what healthy brood should look like. The only product lists are in the mites section and they stand adamantly against any miticides or synthetics for any disease or pest.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:The queen rearing class is offered due to demand. They do not advocate for it nor do we ever do session on queen rearing in our club.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:It's a traditional approach with a responsible twist. Dr. Spivak would say "learn about bees. Once you know enough about bees, you'll be prepared to experiment with equipment." We gotta learn about bees from someone and we're not going to learn it here or from someone in Alberta. My opinion is that I should learn from the people around me that are successful then adapt it to the principles I believe in and that I can make work. How can I expect anyone to help if I'm doing something completely different.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:Ok ... i'll get off my box now and go back to lurking in the background.
Jerry Ward wrote:Well today I see a few bees coming an going. I assume it is just robbing by a nearby hive, however one bee is standing in the landing area with her tail in the air.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:It was such a simple revelation when I read it in one of Wheaton's posts I almost did a Homer Simpson ... "Doh!" ... harvest in spring when the bees have taken (what they think) they need.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:As for foundation, there is no specification in the model. Most use foundation, of course. But, both classes I've been to have shown and instructed on how to use foundationless frames. They have a couple rods that add strength to the frames. I think I might try a colony of them next year. It will be an interesting experiment to see how mite levels compare.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:Yes, swarming is frowned upon. With such a short season, there won't be any honey to harvest if the bees swarm. If it's late enough in the season, they won't make it through winter, either. And, the bees that took off stand almost no chance of survival.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:Inspections ...
I've never been told I have to tear into my hives all the time. I mean, they encourage first year beekeepers to pull frames in order to learn what things are and look like but they're very clear that it will hamper production. The production mentality works for us with this one. Outside of that and popping the lid to peek at the outside frames (which doesn't necessarily require frame removal) to see if another box is needed, I've always been told to leave the hive alone and let the bees do what they do.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:Frankly, when it comes to disease and pests, the Bee Lab and Club say the same thing you guys do ... strong, healthy colonies. I guess the one exception would be mites. We are instructed to do a powdered sugar test twice a season to a sample set of bees and treat if necessary.
Quintin Holmberg wrote:Queen Rearing ...
This is a topic I am woefully ignorant on. I don't know anything about how it's done nor do I know the specifics of why permaculture circles are against it. I'll learn over time, I'm sure. All I can do is defend the bee lab by indicating that in a major metropolitan area of 1.5 million people, there is one, 30 member class a year for this topic. At least I think there is only one.
Jerry Ward wrote:My biggest problem with starting with something other than Langstroth is getting started. I've had two packages I tried to put into a top bar hive and they just took off. With the Langstroth I was able to get a couple of nucs which let me keep bees all summer. I also then built up some comb the next year I got some bee packages and put them in the hive that was lived in last year and they stayed.
I'm afraid if I built some Warre hive bodies and put a package in they would just take off like happened with my TBH. At least with my Langstroth equipment I got some old comb to entice them to stay when I spend almost $100 for a package of bees. If I can catch some swarms I would feel more inclined to take a chance on Warre. I'm also considering "gluing" some comb from a Langstroth to a Warre with some melted wax and go from there.
tel jetson wrote:...while also trying out Warré hives. in stacks of two, Warré boxes are well-suited to use as bait hives.
Cj Verde wrote:Do you mean two boxes with the topbars or two complete hives? I'm planning on doing this since I've been advised here that transferring NUC to a peronne is so much easier.
tel jetson wrote:I'm confused. what is the purpose of inspection if treatment will not be practiced? identifying healthy brood by removing brood comb has the rather detrimental effect of chilling brood and stressing the colony, which seems particularly egregious if it is only to satisfy curiosity. adding stress to a colony by inspecting for disease or pests can easily result in increased susceptibility to the very disease and pests being inspected for.
tel jetson wrote:
I'm confused. what is the purpose of inspection if treatment will not be practiced?
Josh Wells wrote:
There are treatments that don't involve the use of pesticides but even absent those hives should still be inspected. Just one example of why would be American Foul Brood. If you have a have that gets it the sooner you find it and destroy that hive the less likely it is to spread.
Josh Wells wrote:There are treatments that don't involve the use of pesticides but even absent those hives should still be inspected. Just one example of why would be American Foul Brood. If you have a have that gets it the sooner you find it and destroy that hive the less likely it is to spread.
tel jetson wrote:fortunately, AFB can be tested for without actually removing combs. collecting bees for analysis from the top of the hive does the trick nicely and can be accomplished with very little disruption. sampling bees is also more reliable than visual inspection.
as an aside, leaving the colony's immune defenses intact by leaving the hive closed seems a better preventative measure than constantly opening things up to have a look. the latter I would compare to getting monthly CT scans to check for cancer: you'll find it eventually, because the CT scans will cause it.