Steve Thorn wrote:I'm looking into possibly black locust, jujube, and roses in a combination with lilac, agastache, and hyssop for strong smelling plants to hopefully deter them.
Priscilla Stilwell wrote:Planted my first mulberry. Donated to the university, but I've taken responsibility for all donated trees after they killed about 100 I had gotten donated, through dumb neglect (no accommodation for the dry season and no protection from goats). Now I plant and fence every one and cut open white plastjc shopping bags to serve as sun shades on the west side of each young tree.
Anyhow, my mulberry is a rooted cutting that had a tiny berry on it when I got it, so I should be getting fruit very soon. Should I pick off flowers or fruit when I see them for the first 6-12 months for it to get better established, or does it really matter?
Mine is a weeping variety that I'm really excited to have, but I don't know the name. I'm sure it's somewhere. I'm excited to eat the fruit, but even more for the chickens and bunnies.
It's great seeing everyone's progress. I'm learning a lot about plants I've never grown before!
Dennis Bangham wrote:I started some mulberry cuttings this year. A few survived but learned it may be better to just stick them in the ground in early winter. I now have 3 World's Best (Dwarf) and one Hicks to put in my backyard. I will put the dwarf between my current fruit trees (Asian Persimmon and Asian Pear).
Found a wild one just outside my fence but I think it is a male.
Dennis Bangham wrote:You can always graft another mulberry onto what you have.
I planted a Hana early last year and it is well underway in leafing out.
Scratch the bottom bark off, that is above the graft, to see if you see green. If you see nothing but brown, it is dead. I lost two Mansamoto this year.
I started some Giant Fuyu from seed so I will replace with these. I am hoping one of them is a male so I can get more seeds.
Dennis Bangham wrote:I started some mulberry cuttings this year. A few survived but learned it may be better to just stick them in the ground in early winter. I now have 3 World's Best (Dwarf) and one Hicks to put in my backyard.
Diane Kistner wrote:
I'm in Athens, Georgia. I planted a Hana-Fuyu persimmon from Ison's Nursery in late winter that still has not started to bud out yet. They said not to worry, that theirs don't break bud until late May, early June. I hope they're right and it's not dead. What type do you have, Dennis?
May Lotito wrote:Any follow up on the two precious fruits?
Look like the mulberry shoots is going to outgrow the cage pretty soon.
r ranson wrote:Last year I experimented on 3, 3-year old trees. One I coppiced (cut at ground level), one I pollard (kept one stem and only one stem at shoulder hight, and one I left and trimmed the dead branches when the buds started to swell.
The coppiced one SHOULD do better from everything I've read, but it was the last to leaf out in the spring and is still smaller than the other two.
The pollard one was second last one to leaf out. About a week after the not pruned one. It's doing okay, but the top of the pollard died off, and it branched out all up and down the stem as well as from teh root. So it didn't do the thing I had hoped it would.
The one I left leafed out earliest and has more than twice as many leaves as the other two combined.
But that is what happened one year in my climate on an unusual winter. So I need to do some more experiments to get a better idea of what works in my climate.
r ranson wrote:Last year I experimented on 3, 3-year old trees
So I need to do some more experiments to get a better idea of what works in my climate.