paul wheaton wrote:
So you might cut your costs by 70% and then use half of that for architecture and engineering stuff. You still come out dollars ahead.
Kathleen Sanderson wrote:
If you live where there are lots of paper birch trees, and if you need to clear some of said birch trees for garden area and so on, the birch bark can be recycled as a roof membrane. There are old sod-roofed cabins in Alaska and Siberia that are fifty or more years old with that type of roof. Birch bark kept damp just about lasts forever. I suppose it might need to be stripped off and replaced once in a lifetime or so, but for anyone in the far North with access to plenty of birch bark, it's probably the best bet. There may be other long-lasting barks in other areas, too.
Paul try this site. go about 3/4 way down.
tel wrote:floods are rare, but they do happen. even without a flood, the water table is sometimes pretty high, which could remove the insulating value of the dry soil during and for a while after high water...also, the land doesn't have much slope to speak of, except at the river bank. there are a couple of places with a little bit of topography, but I would say the whole property only varies about six feet elevation wise apart from the river bank.
Kragonfire kind of hit on it in that the posts have to be treated or they have to be a form of wood that is very resistant to rot like cedar, white oak, black locust, etc. If not, you will have it rotted out within 10 years and possibly if the conditions are right within 3 years.
If the land you have to build on is level, can you create slope to use
Also, just how dry is that 20 feet around the house? Does that Hobbit-like housein Wales that is pictured have a 20 ft. membrane around it? I see that they have grass and some other things growing there.
paul wheaton wrote:
There are ways to do it by the books.
Consider that the wofati is going to save you heaps of bucks. So, my understanding is that you can follow a few different paths and still do it. One is to have an engineer sign off on it - that sort of overrides the safety codes. (emphasis on "sort of") So you might cut your costs by 70% and then use half of that for architecture and engineering stuff. You still come out dollars ahead.
paul wheaton wrote:
I think that these so-called "freedom pockets" are the spots where innovation happens and then the designs can find their ways into building codes 20 years later.
Jami McBride wrote:
I too would like to see more freedom even at the expense of poor construction.
This idea that rules, conformity and laws make life better I find incredulous.
Life should involve a little mess.
The idea must come form growing up as children, as adults we still want someone else to watch out for us, protect us from ourselves and set rules for us. We make foolish choices and want to sue someone. I personally would like more freedom (or some of my freedom back) to make my own mistakes - JMO
I understand your opinion Rusty being that this has been your job, and I respect that.
I just don't happen to agree, no offense intended to you or your profession.
Sorry about hijacking the thread Paul, but you hit on a nerve with me.
In your June 18, 2009 post, you included two pictures with a vertical wall at the right edge of the roof. The first had earth all the way up to the top of the wall, the second had earth that sloped down to the base of the wall.
Malcolm Wells commented in one of his books that the vertical wall at the sky end of the roof with earth upto it was a bad idea because water in the earth would freeze and do expansion damage to the wall. It sounded like one of those lessons learned the hard way.
Rob Roy's more recent work and Malcolm's drawings/pictures seem to be recommending using sod to act as the retainer at the edge of the roof.
In your wofati article, you dropped the vertical wall in the similar drawings, so you may have already abondoned the idea. Just in case I thought I'd say something
Another thing I've been thinking about. In order for the passive annualized solar to work really well, I think you need a large uninterrupted section of ground covered by insulation and pond liner. If you start putting in 4th wall windows you will be compromising the heat retention. If PAS is the gameplan, I'd be careful and use few if any and very small openings off the South wall.
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