Genevieve Higgs wrote:Thank you for sharing your adventure - it's a huge inspiration
Any idea what % of your duck's food come from slugs and other plant destroying crawlies? According to the Internet the have slugs have about 90 kcal per 100g and 7% protein. At any rate they certainly sound like they're earning their way with the fertilizer production btw Laughed a lot imagining you guys sneaking a thermometer underneath a sleeping duck's but
Hans Quistorff wrote:Having lived through 9 Maine winters I like your temperature layering concepts. I hang layers of carpet with padding in between, for the north and east wall of my greenhouse. I can roll up sections for ventilation in the summer. I am interested in how much snow melt you will get on your layered roof from internal heat. You want fluffy snow up there for insulation, not ice.
I learned a lot in Maine but I am glad to be here where we gt 2 separate weeks of below freezing weather.
Roberto pokachinni wrote:Seems to me that with an incomplete (not solid or continuous) rafter/purlin system (also some of those pieces look pretty small diameter), that the sagging of the plastic between roof members will possibly get worse over time, particularly with a heavy snow year, or when heavy deep snow is followed by saturating rain. Hopefully the many layers of plastic and the carpet will spread the pressure out enough that this will not happen, but I've seen more sturdy looking structures collapse under wet snow on B.C.'s North Coast where I grew up.
I really like your project. Awesome. I just would probably have made a more solid ceiling/roof structure to hold that all that roof material and snow potential.
Glenn Herbert wrote:Just found this thread - love the project! - and fully agree with Roberto. From my experience, roof framing of that size won't hold for more than a couple of years, especially at the low slope without smooth sheathing, which will guarantee lots of small ponds which risk becoming bigger ponds and collapsing the whole thing in case of a heavy wet snow, or rain on thick snow. I would put in a center row of posts and beams to support the rafters as an early priority in spring. If they sagged noticeably while adding the soil, they will sag more with time.
The house plan looks good and functional, though I have reservations about the sheer number of RMHs. Each one is another constant warm air loss point. As the uses are spread widely, there is a certain minimum needed, but I see at least a couple of places you could simplify the building with minor increases in the ducting complexity.
I would definitely advise modifying the bedroom wing systems to have one RMH feed and chimney, with two paths the hot gases can follow and a damper to switch between them. This would let you tend one fire and choose the ratio of heat going to each area. You might start with the heat going to the tub, then switch to the bed so its warmth cycle lasts all night. I'm not certain about a way to condense the community/kitchen systems, but I do think a single 6" is likely to be more reliable than two 4" units.
What are you planning for chimneys? The drawing seems to show each exhaust going out the wall and terminating, unless those X's indicate chimneys. Through-wall exhausts are not going to be reliable in a cold gusty climate; you really want the chimneys to go straight up inside the house and through the roof, preferably at high points to ease waterproofing and drafting.
Glenn Herbert wrote:You mentioned planting black locust; is there any mature black locust available, or on nearby land that you could buy? If you are planning post-in-ground support for code reasons, using black locust will maybe double the lifespan of your structure (more or less). It may be worth spending some money on to increase the longevity of the whole structure.
I don't think that that is accurate. Poplars are not nitrogen fixers, from what I know. They do provide a lot of biomass (leaves/deadfall), which have the potential to aid in nitrogen sequestering (through fungi), but they do not fix nitrogen leguminously from what I understand. Further, poplars have incredibly wide seeking root systems that will enter other systems (up to 200 feet away from what i'm told) to gain nutrients or to spread their clonal colonies (while not fixing nitrogen, they may actually be taking it from other desired plants!). I am planting my initial wilder food forest in close range to poplars and cottonwoods (close poplar relatives), and so will be facing whatever that means as well. I'm curious to hear further of your experience with poplars as part of your polyculture/guild. I have often been curious about gardening in the poplar forest as it is the most open canopied of all the forest systems where I live. My own system is in a feral meadow, which is bordered by these species, but not in a large clonal monocultured type open grove. I have that elsewhere in my forest, but these ones are just along the edge of the field between the field edge and the creek-land, and this creekland soon transitions into the rest of my hundred year old post fire forest. This transitional area also supports a great many other species, like cedar, birch, spruce, alders, doug fir, amibilis fir, red dogwood, pines, willows, and probably others I'm not thinking of. My intention is to allow the edge effect and huge close diversity of this multiple transition zone to facilitate the stability of my created 'guilds', which have just begun using some local wild transplants. Within my own planted food forest system, I will be removing all the poplars and cottonwoods (though not the larger mother trees near the creek) and adding alders (which are nitrogen fixers) and more and more wild edible/medicinal plants.
quaking aspen saplings (what the locals call popples) since they're N-fixers,
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