I hand sharpen at my workbench with a rodent tail document. That said I keep a few sharp chains close by in light of the fact that when I am cutting and dull a chain I basically supplant the chain on the spot with a sharp one and return to work. In the event that I ever get to working with a cutting apparatus more than once in a while I will set up a honing station with a processor like my uncle had years prior when he honed a wide range of things from blades and scissors to saws (counting enormous ones for ranger service shaper heads) for additional cash.
I would also say to those that don't know, never replace your 'safety chain' with professional chain unless you really are a professional & know what kick-back is
I want to second this.
I wholeheartedly disagree with this. The reason why low kickback chain is low kickback, is because it is designed NOT to cut. The problem is, it makes for a lot of fatigue. It is kind of like saying, "go out and use a dull chainsaw chain" because that is exactly what it is. Fatigue in running a chainsaw, to me is far more dangerous then running a regular chain.
Instead of swapping chains, I suggest knowing what causes kickback. Watch that tip! get the upper half of the tip into a piece of wood, and it will kick back on you. Do not do that and you will not have kickback.
As for "I got a ripping chain", I hope that is to mean, you have a chain that is really aggressive and not a true ripping chain. A true ripping chain is designed only for chainsaws mounted on tracks used for making lumbers on a chainsaw sawmill. I just wanted to free up the confusion for people.
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