# "Skipper soup": Included weeds, lawn mowings, kitchen waste & plenty of orange peel, mixed 50:50 with water. Was fermented 3 to 8 weeks until bubbled & smelled. Watered generously on ground - not over plants. Immediately killed slugs only, including keel slugs in ground. Applied around potatoes in August.
# Extract of fir tree seeds - strongly diluted.
# "oc Abrahams No 3 spray": 3oz garlic chopped, soaked 24 hours in 2 teaspoons liquid paraffin. 1 pint (500ml) water & ¾oz liquid soap added. Mixed well& filtered. Stored in a non-metallic container.
# Dead slugs & snails left for a few days in water to ferment.
# Dead slugs & snails ground up & diluted with water - potentised homeopathic spray - sprinkled over garden.
# Extract of ragwort.
# Thin fermented bread dough poured on the ground - kills when eaten.
# Dried couch grass - lightly sprinkled - toxic to slugs.
Also I've read that coffee can be sprayed on the plants.
My current strategy is to provide habitat for slender salamanders. I think the garlic preparation might harm them almost as much as the slugs (both breathe through their skin), and I'm skeptical about the dough.
While I don't think the mechanism of homeopathy has to do with the potentization or the choice of starting materials, I think the human attention needed to prepare & properly apply biodynamic preparations is probably the best medicine for most problems...for instance, you have to know where to find slugs during the day, and then you have to walk your fields, and after that it's a while before you would take any other, more disruptive action. I'm trying to work that way.
So the question is, is Sluggo organic? Well, organic has two meanings. In the sense the chemist understands, the flour part of the material is an organic substance in that it was once a living thing (wheat), and the iron phosphate is an inorganic chemical compound. In the sense meant by the organic farming laws, Sluggo is not approved at this time as a pest management method for use by organic farmers.
I feel strongly that Sluggo will be approved for organic farmers, since its ingredients are not harmful to the environment or to creatures other than snails and slugs. In time, the active ingredient becomes a fertilizer, since plants need iron and phosphorus. For gardeners who have been using metaldehyde bait it is a far better choice, since Sluggo isn't toxic to pets, and is applied so thinly that pets aren't likely to even notice it. I suggest that noncommercial gardeners who consider themselves "organic" go ahead and use Sluggo now, assuming it will be approved.
quoted from: http://goldengategarden.typepad.com/golden_gate_gardener_/2006/05/where_is_the_bl.html
My grandparents on both sides used to just go out on a sluggy day and pick them up, collect them in a coffee can and throw it in the garbage(one could "rehome" them I guess). This was up in WA with the mutant slugs. That seemed to work pretty well.
Personally I think instead of all the work of spraying or laying out bait, it's better to use a "mechanical" means of control--either making the ground icky for them to slide on with pine needles or copper(coffee grounds will gum them up too), or letting slug predators do the work, or just going around picking them up or leaving things out slugs can hide in.
Personally I think slug bait/pesticide is a waste of time, no matter how organic it is. Addressing it through physical methods works better. Either with texture(ash, pine needles, coffee grounds), collection, predators(snakes, birds)or this one I just figured out---I do indeed have the ganourmous slugs here, I found one when I was clearing off a garden plot next to the woods. I don't have the big ones in my main garden because there is an at least 6 foot wide "no slug's land" strip around it of either shortcut grass or bare dirt--very dry. The big fat slug has to cross that and risk drying out before he gets to the lush garden. The main garden was situated in an open exposed area to beign with, so those big slugs wouldn't have been in that area. THe little slugs can hide under smaller things and yes they're in my main garden, but the snakes and birds help, and they don't do any significant damage anyways.
I'm sure slugs must have photosensitivity(why they like to come out at night). so making an exposed dry no slug's land around your garden would help, I would think. There are lots of snails here too, they stay to the forest also and don't cross that dry exposed border into my main garden.
It will be interesting to see how I do with my new garden that won't have that border.
I would not introduce them to areas where they are not already found. They were introduced to the US sometime back in the mid 1880's --l Wikipedia has information on where they are presently found. Once they become established, they manage the garden snail population. The garden snails (weinberg schnecken) were introduced to the grape orchids in California in the hope that they would propagate and be available as a food source. They propagated all right, but evolved to a smaller variety. They are still edible, and a usefull source of protein for the carnivorous. Because of the prevalence and common use of poisonous snail bait, caution should be used in haresting snails in populated areas.
Decollate snails were introduced to manage the pest garden snails in the grape orchids. They are prevalent in California as far north as Fresno. Dunno about the Northwest, though. Our commitment to an examined approach and to do no harm is our guiding principle -- or is it principal ? Never could spell.
I have a roll of copper foil tape, which is use to shield electronics from interfearance, and I made a few rings out of it and placed it around some plants the slugs were hitting pretty hard. Once I picked off the little baby slugs that had been trapped in the ring, there hasn't been any new holes chewed in it.
I already had the copper tape from work, and the type I have is $50 for 18 yards. I did some poking around Amazon, and they have a 36 yard roll for about $11+S&H. Not sure how this one might hold up outside, but is is cheap enough to give it a try. http://www.amazon.com/JVCC-CFL-5CA-Copper-Conductive-Adhesive/dp/B000UZ8SJK
I've heard of people using copper wire, but you need to string multiple strands, I think I've heard a larger continuous surface(like the tape etc) is more effective.
For small gardens: I have had excellent success with sluggo for organic gardens. It's a fertilizer cased in corn meal (I think) - so the slugs think it is supper yummy but then they die and fertilize the garden. Does not harm birds/snakes/pigs that eat dead slugs.
We loaded up the Dustin' Mizer (hand cranked powder blower) and cranked a fine dust of ash on the plants in the evening before dark and in the morning before the sun was up too high. You could watch the slugs squirm, and an hour later they were just a pile of black "snot". Despite 3 times the normal rainfall this month the slugs are now few and far between. We've only used about 5 gallons of ash so the soil mineral balance has not been negatively affected. And the plants have shown no stress either. Good deal! Quick, cheap, and easy enough.
The corn is now almost shoulder high by the fourth of July (a projection of current growth rate), the beans look great and hopefully the potatoes will recover enough to give a good yield of spuds.
Also, I forgot to mention that I sifted the ashes through a 12-mesh window screen so any cinders of charcoal wouldn't clog the 8-mesh screen in the Dustin' Mizer.
So you might want to be careful with "salt-sensitive" plants like carrots, peas, radishes, beans, cukes, and rhubarb. But of all these, most of which I ashed, the only thing that really showed any negative effect was celeriac.
In the long term we're considering a fall "drench" of wormwood tea on the whole 3400 sq. ft. area of garden beds.
Might be a bit time consuming for a very large garden, but if placed there when planting, they might help keep those plants from a setback.
You know the egg shells will be good for the soil and the worms like them too.
Best thing is a stick with a nail attached. Poke, dead, fling.
.Umm the rock pile in the organic slug video,, ummmmm,, we have several hundred tons of rock at our home.We have snakes ,which do a great job with the mice and voles..We even had a nice toad who visited in the evening in our vege garden but he could not even begin to snarf the amounts we had last year..
We have used the beer , the yeast, etc in the tuna cans,, bears like them as well.. so do the neighbors dogs if they can roll in them,,
Umm boards and such they can hang out under ,, yea okay they can be chicken feed this way
The wonders of salt,,, we have turned 30 yr old kids loose with squirt guns and ummm their private guns to do this,,LOL well we also use the grandkids who love to pee on them and watch the end results,,
We have baited with several organics,, Which did work to a point
last year we found as far as some sort of control over the little guys..Ammonia,one to 10 mix with water in a spray bottle ,,helped to handle the beasties..as well as offering a little fertilization to the plants via foliage feeding..
This year we have already began with the organic baits where the gardens are thawing, We did a fall treatment of this as well.This in our gardens, contributed to a reason for not being able to use seed last year.The seedlings were picked off as soon as they sprouted,, not so nice..
Slugs I am sure they serve some purpose in life,, I hope they serve this in someone elses garden next year,, Not ours,,
Coffee did nothing. Put a bunch of slugs and snails in a blender then sprayed it on the plants and that did not seem to help either. Amazing amount of them this year but I'm also planting in bales of weeds and on weedy and wet and weedy plots. Sure could convert them into hundreds of duck eggs but with work I'm not around enough to look after animals.
I found the best thing to do is to increase frogs on the property.
Failing that, pick / kill the slugs with a nail or razor blade on a stick.
Coffee sprayed on plants "perks" them up, pun not intended.
You do have to prune the weeds and even thin them eventually.
At first, when slugs were bad, I kept row covers over the tender plants, and then screening I got from a guy who redoes screen doors. I also think it helped when I stuck pieces of bamboo in the ground (like palisades on the frontier around the forts) to keep the neighborhood pets out.
Sprinkling ashes, diatomaceous earth, sand, soot - made no difference. But then - I had me a regular slug factory with all the chunks of wood and boards lying around. Now there is no wood in contact with soil. I am watching the rocks to see if they are going to be the same problem. Bark is not a problem.
Don't give up. Throw enough mud at the wall and something will stick.
Mostly those big fat slugs eat dead plant material and other slugs so they're good guys
its the little buggers that do the damage and they're much harder to pick and salt. 2 watering cans a year gives slug free potatos
I am covering a bout 14 thousand sq feet of gardens for slug patrol.Plus they have been known to show up in our greenhouse.Our vege garden is a challenge since it is 148 bales of straw, surrounded by a three to four foot rock drystack rock fence, pathways are pine sawdust..It is also over the drainfield and designed for handicap access so straw bales have been the easiest way to utilize the area.The potatoes were hard hit last year since we use the no dig methods.I will look for the nematodes and give them a try,Since they are not an ammonia fixable one..
The roof garden is the least affected by the slugs it is mostly sedums they do not care for.Nor do they like the herb or mint gardens..The large house gardens along with the pond area has have been challenging but seem to of slowed down slug wise last year,, This we believe is due more to it becoming established before the slugs come out for the spring..All my gardens are mulched with wood bark and chips,, they will even slim across the rough sawn trim around my house windows to slime the glass ,,another perk of having a home buried into a hillside I suppose,,LOL
As I wrote above we have tried basically everything we could find including the recipes that the person starting the thread had, several of those have been used for other types of pests for generations.
I love the diatomaceous earth but it has to be dry to work on any garden pest been there done that,,The seaweed spray is another we are going to try this year a bit more,we are thawing now and have put out the usual organic baits hoping to catch any of the slimers before planting is in full swing.
Has anyone tried sprinkling copper filings around? This is something else we are thinking about trying along the areas that no on walks along barefoot.
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