Kris Arbanas wrote:I want a slab on grade because we designed passive solar and I want the thermal mass of the floor.
Any thoughts or suggestions of what could be done?
I know concrete isn't the ideal material for building as natural as possible but I don't see an engineer signing off on something else.
Drainage is definitely a concern of mine. I figured if I drilled enough holes in the existing, it would allow proper drainage. Maybe that's wishful thinking.
I was going to use Mag board for the walls but didn't consider it for the floor. Sounds like an option.
Terry Ruth wrote: Kris, are you being code or sub-division controlled?
Jay C. White Cloud wrote:
Where are the logs coming from? Who is going to lay them out and joint them? Do they actually have the skills, or is it just another "kit company?" What is the soil type? Does Kris have a tractor or other heavy equipment to make building this "time plausible" to the description of the project parameters? Is this current slab even capable of taking the massive point load weight of a log wall system and its interior timber framing without buckling or failing?
Terry Ruth wrote:It doesn't work that way. A requirement to get a building permit can mean ALOT of things. Call your city or county inspection office and ask what code is being enforced for single family residences, IRC 2006, 2009, 2012, 2015? Also, if they have excluded any Chapters or re-written them, or created their own building standards. For all you know they could care less what you build, they just want to know about it and get there little permit fees. Also ask if an Energy code IECC) is being enforced..
That will tell you what is being enforced at your state level that can differ per county, city, town. You may only have zoning codes.
If you are planning on loan talk all this over with the bank they will have inspections, appraisals. That is why I say building natural can come with a steep price in training and proving your build, unless you are way out in rural and paying cash, then noone gives a hoot!
Let us know so we can advise better.
They have been crafting log homes since 1975 and everything is done by hand.
I do have a small 36HP tractor that has been a workhorse since I took over the property.
I wouldn't have gotten anywhere so far without it lol. I was going to rely on the engineer to ensure the point loads are carried sufficiently and maybe add additional reinforcement since you mention that OPC has poor strength in comparison to stone. Can the strength be improved significantly with a combo of stone and cement for the piers?
The logs avg between 11-12" so closer to 300mm. They don't actually use any "chinking" but notch a groove on underside of log that creates a weathertight seal and only add a little insulation.
That's interesting about the rebar/metal. My plan calls for reinforcement on all of the piers so I'm sure they would want a ton of rebar in them. What kind of fiber do you use in your mixes? If the problem with concrete is that it constantly holds water, wouldn't the fiber decompose? Does small stone added to concrete add any additional strength?
I like the idea of a podii style foundation but I am concerned with there not being any undisturbed soil underneath since I need to either bring fill in or move it in from the surrounding land to fill the existing hole. Do you think there would be an issue if the soil/fill type is right and I properly compact?
The insulation, in this application, is considered the "chinking and the daubing" both. I hope it is a "mineral wool" and not a fiber glass or foam?
Stone does not add strength per se, and the fiber is a synthetic either of glass, carbon, or nylon. Fiber re-enforced OPC has become more and more common in many areas. As you know, I dislike OPC materials a great deal, but if forced by circumstance to use them, fiber reinforce is the type I prefer.
To actually build or form a functional podii system foundation one must start with bare mineral soil and build up from that with stone, clay soils and lime.
I don't think it probably is applicable with the slab already there. The more I read through this post, the more I lean towards a "do over," as that slab now is for a different building and different loads.
Terry Ruth wrote:500 mm(1.6 feet) off the ground won't work for my old folk zero entry design, nor get past ADA baby boomers are requiring. The more I think about zero entry the more I like, why create a trip hazard for even infants in strollers if we can avoid, or carrying groceries, furniture, etc....same in wet shower areas. ...grade slopes, large overhangs and gutters can get it done.
They been here in the high dry deserts for centuries no issues. It rarely rains and if it does it is so hot all year it evaporates fast. The word 'moisture' they only wish for.