Conner Choi wrote:Is flagstone suitable for a cob foundation? I'm worried it will be too weak, considering California is prone to earthquakes.
Maybe I misunderstand. I thought you wanted to use flagstone for the foundation. I wouldn't use Cobb for a foundation. Rodents can burrow right through. Even with a French drain, you'll undoubtedly have moisture penetration.Conner Choi wrote:I was planning on using them for foundation stones. Do you have any input in that department?
Jay C. White Cloud wrote:Hi Jim,
I am not sure if you have read any of my other posts, but I am a traditional builder and stone is part of that system very often. I am also a "Historic Preservation Artisan," and have many different discussions and consultations on my (and many other forums) on LinkedIn should you care to find me there. These are "academic," and more aimed at professional builders/restorationist/architects...but there is still a great deal that could be learn, if interested.
j
I spot-tuckpointed the bad areas. I see your point about stone and concrete. I never thought of that before. Brick, being more porous probably works better with concrete. Thanks for the info. Keep up the good work!
Jay C. White Cloud wrote:
That sounded like a fine brick form of Victorian architecture...still many left, but unfortunately so many are being destroyed for "improper maintenance" and "repare methods" (not restoration.) However, more so than stone...bricks can't stand being "restricted" and need to expand and contract with seasonal and chronological changes...Concrete does not nor ever will allow this as they are not "sympathetic materials" by nature, and is not a compatible constituent...as cement-only mixtures will often fail or cause damage in these applications. Rebar too, is not recommended in concretes as it has been applied in the past due to spalling issues for "rust jacking" and other interstitial challenges within modern OPC concretes. Code is a "minimum standard" and even this is flawed in many ways...
j
I'm not so down on concrete as you are...
I worked with my cousin, a professional mason, rebuilding our chimneys. In lieu of ready mixes, he preferred to mix his own concrete, using lime, sand and cement. The bricks were original, reused from the house. He was able to simply pull the bricks off, with little or no chiseling, from the original lime/sand mixture. Granted, this was 120+ years later. We had no problems for the next four years, while living there.
Jay C. White Cloud wrote:
If this foundation is in a tectonically active region than I would highly recommend not using one of the "ashlar" lay patterns for the stone...but instead a stronger "herringbone" pattern with lime mortar if possible (or very well fitted stone with cobb mortar.) Herringbone patterns are found throughout regions of the world with major seismic events like Turkey, across Asian and of course into Japan where this method dominates.
j
Jay C. White Cloud wrote:
As example of "how bad it is," in just looking up stuff to share with you about "stone work" I would have to say conservatively 70% of it is not only "bad advice" it is down right "WRONG." The link below was my "first hit" and from materials to technique photos...it is simply hideous...This is why I have become such a nag about folks "vetting information" really well on all manner of things related to "natural" (aka traditional building methods.)
Very bad stone work and advice...just an example what not to do or follow!!!
A stable wall needs a solid foundation -- for this wall, that means concrete. Dig a trench for the concrete foundation about one foot wide and 10 to 12,5 cm deep, running the full length of the seating wall. Use a square shovel to level out the bottom of the trench.
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