So, I heard Paul mention a blacksmith mention that you could heat steel in that thing.....
It's been on my mind ever since, can it be done to a level that can create a working forge? I had some thoughts on what it would look like from a blacksmithing perspective, but it may be way off from a rocket stove builders perspective.
I hate using coal and propane to do things and I am committing to building a forge from a rocket, but I need to ask for some help and input on how best to arrange the burn chambers to get it to work.
This is a sketch of my initial thoughts on the core shape and all, again from a smiths perspective.....is there enough heat up at the forge chamber?
Thanks big Al! Are you the sole responder on rocket stuff?! You seem to be the only person to say anything when I ask! I want to get enough firebricks all at once for a mass heater, The firepit I was bothering you about, and this forge, so I am working on planning them at the same time.
So I guess my question really comes down to:
temperature at the top of the riser? And how much flamey stuff can I get in the fire box?
J tube or L?
Will a box at the top interrupt the draft too much?
How do you push the temps at the top of a riser higher?
Is there a design flaw in how I am looking at it?
So, that's a lot but maybe I can get one or two of these answered without those steps in trail and error.
I was late to find the Kickstarter but as soon as the DVDs are out I'm buying them!
Location: Northern New York Zone4-5 the OUTER 'RONDACs percip 36''
So, I do a lot of forging (I have a gas forge set up at home, and I go to a weekly open-forge-night) and just a little bit of rocketing (i've built one working batchbox).
There are two issues that I expect to cause you trouble.
First, your typical forge is adjustable. I don't know how well you'll like working in a fire that's only full-blast.
Second, there's a reason you forge in coal or charcoal, a reason besides the heat. Burning wood emits lots of junk. At forging temperatures, steel is susceptible to absorbing junk. This can be problematic. Will the heat at the end of the riser be sufficient for forging? My guess is yes. Will the exhaust at the end of the riser be clean? With all the undesirable compounds destroyed? I really don't know. If I ever tried it, I'd be carefully, diligently, suspiciously watching for the symptoms of having contaminated my work with sulfur or other nasties.
Yeah, I was thinking on that, sulfur is very volatile in that it doesn't like to stay in a form when energy is around free to use......meaning I am hoping that at the end of a rockety riser most of the compounds that would be an issue if you put wood in a coal forge and touched your steel to it would be gone......again it's a hope.
All this stuff came about when folks would use wood rather than charcoal for blade smithing, the wood touched and surrounded the steel in the forge, but charcoal is ok, the volitles are released in gass form when making charcoal, so one would think that the gasses that are reburning in a rocket are partially the very same ones that historically caused the issues. And have they oxidized and become compounds in the energy transfer of the second burn?
So, are you with me, am I a nut? I think it's worth a try, but I need to troubleshoot the forge "box" at the top to eliminate issues, that way we are dealing with one thing at a time.
I would want the box positioned and shaped so that I could see the iron in the heat and know how hot it is getting without having to lean over or pull it out to check. With the opening oriented to face front to rear, there is the issue of exhaust pointing toward the smith. You might want the box shaped to allow more exhaust to leave at the rear.
The hottest, most corrosive part of the heat riser is the lower third, judging by the failure pattern of metal liners. Shortening the riser enough to be nearer the hot spot while letting enough combustion occur to minimize nasty compounds in the exhaust would probably be the trick. Some way of easily adjusting the riser height for experiments would be good, maybe 2" or 3" high rings of insulated riser... actually a mix of 2", 3" and 4" rings would allow extreme adjustability.