r ranson wrote:Last year I experimented on 3, 3-year old trees. One I coppiced (cut at ground level), one I pollard (kept one stem and only one stem at shoulder hight, and one I left and trimmed the dead branches when the buds started to swell.
The coppiced one SHOULD do better from everything I've read, but it was the last to leaf out in the spring and is still smaller than the other two.
The pollard one was second last one to leaf out. About a week after the not pruned one. It's doing okay, but the top of the pollard died off, and it branched out all up and down the stem as well as from teh root. So it didn't do the thing I had hoped it would.
The one I left leafed out earliest and has more than twice as many leaves as the other two combined.
But that is what happened one year in my climate on an unusual winter. So I need to do some more experiments to get a better idea of what works in my climate.
Mary Beth Alexander wrote: Now that I know where I'll be putting my chicken coop/runs, I'm wondering if I can just "stick" them in opportune spots.
I can start them in pots of sand and then transplant if that's best. TYVM
Bethany Ringdal wrote:
-What have people done to keep mulberries at a good picking height?
-We have a bunch of wild sown mulberries growing in our yard, some with plentiful tasty fruit and some with no fruit at all. Anyone know what's up with that?
-How are folks doing cuttings? I'm trying to decide whether to take cuttings from my wild fruitful berries or buy a named variety and clone from there...
Kate Downham wrote:Has anyone had any luck growing white mulberry from seed?
Do I need to freeze it, scarify it, or treat it in any other way before planting?
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