Horse-Fly and giant horsefly in cattle

Through extensive research, it has been found that this unique trap, known as the Nzi (EN-zee) trap (‘nzi' is the Swahili word for ‘fly'), effectively catches biting flies. Originally designed to trap the dreaded tsetse fly in Africa, it is now being used worldwide, thanks to the generous sharing of information on the internet - at http://informatics.icipe.org/nzi/index.htm, hosted by the International Centre of Insect Physiology and Ecology - where you can find lots of interesting details about this trap and its variations, and flies.

It works via the attraction of flies to large blue and black objects. Once they get inside this clever configuration of cloth and netting, which they readily do, they can't find their way back out and they die in the collector.  

You’re on Your Way to Season Long Fly Control

Biological fly control is a proven way to control flies before they become the adult pests that can spread disease and bother you and your horses. These tiny gnat sized fly parasites deposit their eggs in the fly pupa and destroy the immobilized fly during its pupal stage, long before it can become an adult pest.

Step 1 – Locate Your Worst Fly Breeding Habitats

The primary fly breeding habitats in horse stables are those areas where manure builds up along fence lines (tough to clean up areas), and where manure is stored for later removal or handling. These are the primary fly breeding habitats and this is where you'll find fly larva in large concentrations.

Step 2 – Put Your Fly Parasites to Work

It's now time to release your fly parasites and let them go to work for you. Working along the fence line, choose the areas of greater build-up, then simply peal open the top of the pack and shake out a small quantity of the fly parasites on to the manure. Continue with this process, until you've covered as much of the stable as possible. As the season progresses, you'll begin to clearly recognize the worst fly breeding habitats. You should release your fly parasites there first, and then move to the secondary habitats. This is the same procedure you'll follow with the arrival of each shipment of Organic Cowboy™ Fly Parasites.

Step 3 – Maintain an Effective Program

Your fly parasites are now doing their job, but there are things you can do optimize your season long fly control. Along with releasing the proper number of fly parasites throughout the season, weekly stall and barn cleanup can greatly reduce the amount of fly breeding habitat and effectively interrupt the fly breeding cycle. Cleanup and limited spray use in fly roosting habitats (where adult flies rest), can complement your biological fly control program. Just be sure never to apply the chemical sprays in areas where you release your fly parasites.

Whether you choose to receive your fly parasites every other week or monthly, be sure to release them within 48 hours of arrival. This helps you stay ahead of the flies, and insures that the fly parasites are fresh and ready for action. If you choose to store them for a few days, keep them refrigerated, to slow their metabolism.

hans muster wrote:What solutions are there?

Mike Turner wrote:I've been able to reduce my local deer fly and horse fly populations by stocking the lake on my property with ducks.  The fly larvae live in mud and shallow water, precisely the areas where ducks like to feed.  We went from having 2 to 4 deer flies going you when venturing outside during fly season (May-June) to having one show up occasionally when venturing outside (I've only seen 3 so far this season). Horse flies, which show up later in the summer,  also declined to where I rarely see one now.

Sandra Peake wrote:  I never had too much problem with horseflies, but knew we had them by the bright yellow eggs laid on the ponies' legs. We had more problems with mosquitos. Local horse breeders used fly masks to keep the flies from landing on their critters' faces. Some resorted to blankets, but that was too hot for mine.

Patrick Dillman wrote:[size=12]
Ya'll MUST know about this. If any of you are in areas that grow Beautyberries...But the main reason I am posting is the leaves. Apparently old timers used to put canvas bags of the leaves around the horses necks and it is an EXCELLENT bug repellent.

Gail Gardner wrote:

Mike Turner wrote:I've been able to reduce my local deer fly and horse fly populations by stocking the lake on my property with ducks.  The fly larvae live in mud and shallow water, precisely the areas where ducks like to feed.  We went from having 2 to 4 deer flies going you when venturing outside during fly season (May-June) to having one show up occasionally when venturing outside (I've only seen 3 so far this season). Horse flies, which show up later in the summer,  also declined to where I rarely see one now.

What kind of ducks? I assume you stocked it with ducks that can fly? Otherwise, I would think coyotes and other predators would wipe them out pretty quickly. But if they can fly, don't they just fly away?

Mike Turner wrote:Rouans and khaki cambells, which can fly short distances.  They spend the night either out on the lake or up next to the house. I've lost a few hens, but only one khaki cambell drake.

Gail Gardner wrote:

Mike Turner wrote:

Gail Gardner wrote:

Mike Turner wrote:Rouans and khaki cambells, which can fly short distances.  They spend the night either out on the lake or up next to the house. I've lost a few hens, but only one khaki cambell drake.

Interesting. I never heard of that kind. I'll look them up. The Welsh Harlequins at the last place I lived were sitting ducks. Only the young ones were light enough to fly a little. The older ones get too heavy and can only flap their wings to move faster on land. They had to be protected from coyotes. Aren't the drakes supposed to protect the hens?

Do you live wild or do you feed them? If you feed them, what do you feed them? Do you get eggs? Research says the Khaki Campbell ducks are the most prolific egg layers, but not broody so if you want more of them you have to buy them or put their eggs in with a broody chicken. The best broody chicken I ever had was a bantam. She wasn't even a year old and hatched 19 eggs at once - most of them from full-sized chickens.

The rouans can fly about 50 ft at a height of 3 ft, farther when flying downhill.  The khakis can fly 150ft and clear a 4ft high fence. Drakes don't protect the hens, only harass them trying to mate. My ducks can access the feed I put out for the chickens, but get most of their food from the lake and pastures.  06562920 lay eggs, the problem is finding them, the rouans will nest and brood, the khakis drop their eggs wherever they happen to be when they feel the urge.

Mike Turner wrote:Rouans and khaki cambells, which can fly short distances.  They spend the night either out on the lake or up next to the house. I've lost a few hens, but only one khaki cambell drake.