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Batch box heater using fisher stove

 
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Location: nw ohio
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chicken bee
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Just finished my batch box rocket heater.  It is not a mass heater though, just designed to heat up garage.  Used a mama bear fisher stove, easier for our skill level and has the advantage of a well made box with a nice door.  Batch box is kinda short, only 15 inches deep and 12 inches wide and 12 inches tall. Port size is 2.5 inches wide and 9 inches tall.  Riser dimensions is 6 inches by 6 inches and is square and is 50 inches tall.  Used  six inch exhaust and it worked out just fine.  No secondary intake, not sure I'm going to add one. Didn't insulate riser either.  Fire brick for riser was standard, non insulated.  
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gardener
Posts: 2417
Location: latitude 47 N.W. montana zone 6A
349
cat pig rocket stoves
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Hi Jeff ;
Neat little rocket stove you built.   I see one major problem.  Your barrel is still painted!!!  When that heats up, it is going to give off vast amounts of noxious smoke, really nasty stuff!!! I know its in a shop but still...

If that barrel is not getting  hot enough to burn off the paint then your not reaching rocket temps.

Its still a neat stove and if its doing the job of heating your area then it will do. Considering its  mid winter any working stove is better than none.
 
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Location: +52° 1' 47.40", +4° 22' 57.80"
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woodworking rocket stoves wood heat
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Hi Jeff,
Looks nice, I'll give you that. The top of the firebox is restricted/lined with firebricks but the sides of the firebox are still steel as I see it. Lining this also with firebrick, full or split ones, would help a lot in burning temperatures and through that, cleaner burning. I fully expect insulating the riser as well would raise efficiency again, gaining more heat out of the same fuel.
All that done, you would be able to add a second barrel to extract more heat. And burn the paint off, no doubt, I sincerely do hope you have doors in front and rear of your garage to vent the muck outside.

My original 6" development model started with one 55 gallon barrel and ended with three of those, while the first one already impressed me no end.
 
pollinator
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Hm, neat. Now I'm trying to remember how big these Fishers got while retaining the handy 'more deep than wide' style.

Peter, if it's like the old Fishers I've seen, the bottom and sides already had firebrick, and that steel bit at the bottom of the 'roof' bricks is what held the side bricks in place.
 
Jeff Wesolowski
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Location: nw ohio
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chicken bee
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thomas rubino wrote:Hi Jeff ;
Neat little rocket stove you built.   I see one major problem.  Your barrel is still painted!!!  When that heats up, it is going to give off vast amounts of noxious smoke, really nasty stuff!!! I know its in a shop but still...

If that barrel is not getting  hot enough to burn off the paint then your not reaching rocket temps.

Its still a neat stove and if its doing the job of heating your area then it will do. Considering its  mid winter any working stove is better than none.



Do you have any suggestions on removing the paint?  Sander, grinder, paint remover?  Top of barrel is 550 degrees so far,  don't know how much hotter it will get with that much surface area.

 
Jeff Wesolowski
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chicken bee
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Peter van den Berg wrote:Hi Jeff,
Looks nice, I'll give you that. The top of the firebox is restricted/lined with firebricks but the sides of the firebox are still steel as I see it. Lining this also with firebrick, full or split ones, would help a lot in burning temperatures and through that, cleaner burning. I fully expect insulating the riser as well would raise efficiency again, gaining more heat out of the same fuel.
All that done, you would be able to add a second barrel to extract more heat. And burn the paint off, no doubt, I sincerely do hope you have doors in front and rear of your garage to vent the muck outside.

My original 6" development model started with one 55 gallon barrel and ended with three of those, while the first one already impressed me no end.




Thanks  Peter, the sides are firebrick, the metal is just a brace holding the firebrick in place.  As far as insulating the  riser, once the riser reaches a certain temp, won't it just stay there?  I would think that insulation would just allow it to reach temp sooner, correct?
 
Peter van den Berg
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Location: +52° 1' 47.40", +4° 22' 57.80"
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woodworking rocket stoves wood heat
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Insulating the riser would allow reaching operation temperature sooner, but that's not all. Insulation has also the effect of getting higher temps so more volatiles will combust almost spontaniously.
 
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Hello Jeff, do you have any pictures of the stove without the barrel so i can see how you configured it? I currently heat my split level ranch with an old fisher woodstove and am contemplating building a RMH but not sure what route i want to go. I figure if my old Fisher can keep the house cozy by giving off 250 to 300 degree temps, certainly a RMH could do that and much more at less the cost - and no creosote worries. More pictures the better...thanks!
 
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I am new to this but really like the idea you have using old stove as batch box had anyone else done this?  I would like to try this but would insulate the riser as well  
 
pollinator
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Nick Kendall wrote:I am new to this but really like the idea you have using old stove as batch box had anyone else done this?  I would like to try this but would insulate the riser as well  



Yes. I've used a Charnwood Country 4 as the basis of a BB Rocket.

It's quite heavily modified though... To follow as closely as possible the dimensions on the Batchrocket Resources site, I had to cut off the rear of the stove and extend the depth of the firebox. The whole of the original stove is heavily insulated with insulating firebricks and superwool - there is no metal from the original stove (apart from the cast iron door) that is in contact with the fire. It's a 5" sidewinder system that I use to heat water and a brick bell. It works really well and is into its second winter with only a few issues.
 
Nick Kendall
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Do you have any pics    This seems it would be easier  for me to modify a heater like this that has a nice door and latch setup   Vs starting from scratch as I want a nice door latch setup and want bigger then just using a 6 “ design and I want to turn it into rocket stove  like the first one in this post
 
John Harrison
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I have a few Nick and once I've worked out how to share them on here(!) I will...
 
thomas rubino
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Location: latitude 47 N.W. montana zone 6A
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Hi John;
When creating a new post,  to add photo's you click on the box that says attachments.  Then click on the new box that's says upload a file.   That should take you to your photos
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John Harrison
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Ah right - thanks Thomas.

I thought I would have to link to some photo sharing site or similar on the web. When I return to base I'll give it a go

Thanks again.
 
John Harrison
pollinator
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Here's a photo upload test - fingers crossed...
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Rear of original Charnwood stove showing cutout section
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Internals of stove removed and extension (to deepen the firebox) in place.
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Rough mock up of firebox lining. Insulating firebrick backed with superwool and rockwool.
 
Nick Kendall
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Thanks
Mind why does the box get insulated?  I had thought riser was insulated
 
John Harrison
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If the firebox was left uninsulated the high temperatures needed to help promote clean combustion would be hard to achieve.

Additionally, the firebox (if made from steel) would degrade very quickly under the prolonged exposure to high heat. There are quite a few threads on the forums showing catastrophic failure of metal components in rocket stoves.
 
gardener
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The entire combustion core, firebox and riser, needs to be insulated. Not only do you want to keep heat inside until it has finished burning, but you need to protect the steel enclosure from exposure to the intense heat.
 
Nick Kendall
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Thanks for clearing that up for me
 
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